A/C problem, blowing hot air

The blend door actuators go out all the time and is sounds like the temperature actuator is not working. Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job and diagrams below to tell you the location and how to replace it on your car:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

Here are the temperature blend door location and the HVAC system wiring diagrams so you can see how the systems works. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers

Thanks for this post it helped me fix my car. The part cost me $76.00 and all set. A little tough to get at but I made it happen. :) I love this site.

What causes hot air to blow from defrost vents instead of the correct vents. The compressor has been checked and the clutch is engaging properly and the Freon level is fine.

The air conditioner is not blowing with same force as it sounds and the automatic temperature climate control never changes or shuts off. I heard that it could be possibly be an expansion valve block issue behind the dashboard. Please respond with possible answer.

AC was blowing warm air and I went to get Freon added. Dealer told me the AC Freon was fine, but he reprogrammed AC. Now, changed out old battery and AC is blowing warm air again. How do I reprogram?

You drive it back to the dealer and tell them what happened. That is what I would do.

I thank you for the reply, but they did it through the dashboard with the regular instrument panel.

It has a self test and a self calibrating feature but you cannot program anything that way.

Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Self-Test:

The EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A diagnostic tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.
The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard DTCs in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°-32°C (40-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-vehicle temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.
The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within 2 seconds . The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds . Record all DTCs displayed.
If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.
If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, GO to Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation. See: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank).
To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second . Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.
Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).
Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.

I am not getting any cool air through my AC vents just on top of the dash where my defroster air comes from. How do I manually switch it to make the air to come out of my AC vents?

I think you are dealing with a vacuum leak in situation. The vents are actuated by vacuum. If there is a leak, what you described is what happens.

Check under the dash for disconnected, damaged, dry rotted, vacuum hoses as well as under the hood. If you are lucky, you will hear a hissing sound from the leak with the engine running.

Let me know what you find.
Joe

Turn heat on heat blows out cool air. Defroster blows cool air. No blown fuses. Started car remove cap from radiator turn heat on high let car run to see if heater warms. Heater does not warm and car does not overheat.

With the engine at full operating temperature, locate the two heater hoses where they go into the firewall and feel them to see if they are both hot to the touch. If they are both hot, the heat in that vehicle is controlled by a blend door that regulates heated air flow. It is operated by an electric motor/actuator. The problem can be that the actuator is stripped or inoperative or the door itself could be damaged. This is what needs to be determined by examining the actuator and see if it is responding to heat change commands or not.

At idle, AC compressor disengages and blows hot air. At highway speeds air blows cold from thirty mph upward. Is there a low idle speed sensor for the compressor?

Have Freon charge checked.

I have a 2000 Mercury Grand Marquies with 51,000 miles and a v8

I ran into a problem. My air conditioner quit blowing air. It is still making cold air, just not blowing it. When I have the air on regualr ac I can feel the cold air when i am traveling down the freeway. But when it is on recirculation. This no movement at all. Obviously the air moves when the outside air can push it through. Any idea what this may be? Any way to reset the air conditioner with a button combination? How would I fix this?

Thanks,
J Doss

It is auto temp control,my skill level is very low. I am very technicly inclined. If it appears to be over my head my brother in law can do it. I'll give him the info and let him after it. he works on Jeeps just for fun. (I do want to see if I can do it though ;) )

Here is little more info I forgot to meantion. It was working then it quit for a month then started working again then stopped off and on like that for a while. Now it appears it is not going to come back on. In my limited experience, I would rule out a fuse do to the fact that is would come back on, but you tell me.

Let me know If there is anything else I can tell you.

Wow, thanks. I would like instructions. While I was waiting for your reply, i found out how to do a self test. It came up with 888 (No errors) Don't know if that is handy to know, but more info is better than less.

Thanks again. I'll be looking forward to getting this fixed.

I'm getting the motor today. I'll let you know how it goes. What is the longcut?

How do I transfer the blower wheel? I am having trouble with the push nut. How do I remove it?

Okay,bad news. I figured out how to get the blower wheel on and got everything put back together. But it is still not working. Any other ideas?

There is no fuse in slot 9. I've had the fuse panel cover on, so I can confirm there never has been.

I have a 2001 :oops: sorry. 18 is good

I've been doing some research online and think it could be the blower speed controller

Here
Question : What is wrong with my cars heat and air? I have a 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis.?
It heats up and cools, but even on high, it just barely blows like it is set on low. I think it might be the blower motor. But not sure. If so, what does it take to fix it? Will it be very expensive? My brother said the whole dash will have to come out to get to it. Is that true? I would appreciate anyones input or suggestions since winter is almost here, and I am freezing when I first start my car. Thanks.

Answer:
The blower motor is under the hood area on the right side, it has 3 bolts holding it in, and wiring on top of it. you could have a blower speed controller stuck, or switch that is bad, but the first thing to do is take the blower motor out and check the cage on it, and then look inside to make sure thatt there isn't anything restricting air as it blows thru the evaporator core, I have seen mice make nests in blower motors and in the case area. It should only take 30 minutes to remove the blower motor, and doesn't really need special tools, a 8mm or 5/16 socket, ratchet and a couple of extensions.

and here

I have been searching the Forums on and fiddling around with the EATC System Blower Motor Controller circuit on our 2001 GM LS for a year trying to solve the (initially) intermittent operation of the Blower for a year. After running with the Blower hot-wired thru a toggle switch for six months (when the intermittent problem went to complete failure)I finally got around to pulling the Controller Board out of the Heater/AC box last week.
On my last search of the Forums I turned-up a note from a fellow who said "[i:3032717cf1]most guys just fix it with a little bit of solder[/i:3032717cf1]" this turned-on a lightbulb for me and today I had a look at the solder-joints where the connector is attached to the Controller Board. Sure enough, I could see that the solder was cracked at one of the big lugs of the connector!
I heated-up the pins at all 5 connector lugs and flowed a little solder into the "gaps" around the pins. When I plugged the Board into the harness I found I have a Blower that once again works under control of the EATC!
Now all I have to do is re-install the Board into the Heater/AC Box - a real tight squeeze. Right now I have it tie-wrapped to something under the hood but the heat sink on the Power Transistor gets REAL HOT - I think the best place in it is back inside that Heater/AC Box...

These are exact discriptions of what I have experienced. Where can I find the blower motor control?

I'm having a hard time getting the ratchet in to get the screws. The plug is in the way on the control . I have a birthday party to go to, I'll be back in a few hours.

Great news. it was the Blower Speed control. I have air again! Thanks for your help.

I have read thru another post in this forum about heater and a/c blower motors that stopped working suddenly.

I have a similar problem with a 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis LSE with climate control (Electronic Automatic Temperature Control or EATC for short). I have checked the obvious including the inside passenger compartment fuses plus the power distribution box underneath the front hood with particular attention to both the blower motor relay and blower motor fuses. I even swapped them out with other working relay and fuses in the power distribution box. I then measured the voltage being applied to the blower motor itself under the hood. It read anywhere from 1 to 6 DC volts or so. I have a similar blower motor layout in a well maintained 1997 Ford Crown Victoria (without EATC) and that voltage reading was 13-14 volts whether the fan speed control was set on low or high. So I'm suspicious of the lower voltage I measured in my Grand Marquis versus my Crown Vic... why would there be this big difference?

While traveling down the highway yesterday at 50-60 mph with the a/c set to 70 degrees, I could feel cool air coming from the vents in my 2003 Grand Marquis probably because of some of the air being recirculated from the outside to the inside. The faster I went, the more cool air I could feel coming from the vents BUT still the blower motor wasn't working. So the A/C system is working, it just ain't blowing this cool air around the inside of my car!

I read about a EATC module self test today which I performed with NO Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) indicated. I then disassembled the fan speed control switch, cleaned it with a cotton swab and some rubbing alcohol, reassembled everything but still the same result... the heater and a/c is not blowing any warm or cold air whatsoever.

What else am I overlooking? Is it maybe the blower speed controller... and exactly where is it?

I removed the new blower motor and put on the old one, since it wasn't the blower motor. I was going to return the new one and get a refund. Do you think I shoud keep it and use the new one? Does it matter?

I see your point. I'll install the new one. Thanks

I read in another forum where some Ford tech at a local dealer was replacing tons of Ford basic part # 19E624 which seems to be known as the blower speed controller. I took a chance and purchased one and replaced mine; it fixed the problem and now the A/C will blow your hat off!

Let me tell you though that this was an absolutely "miserable" module to replace. It is under the hood sandwiched below the two heater hoses and underneath the vapor mangement valve and secured with two 8 mm screws. What should have been a 10 minute job turned into a 2-3 hour miserable job thanks (once again) to the forward-thinking engineers at Ford Motor Company. I don't know what those automotive engineers were smoking but it must have been damn good!

I did read somewhere that if this blower speed controller needed replacement, that something else (like the blower motor itself) may have been the real culprit. Anyone else have any opinions about this?

Same problem on my 2000mgm-will not blow cold air. Thanks