My engine cranks but wont start?

Check the coolant temperature sensor, clean the idle air control valve and MAF sensor -also do a fuel pressure test. This guide will help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cranks, will not start. Checked fuel pressure-48PSI; power to all COP's and injectors; Checked all fuses-ok!Sometimes it sounds like it wants to start...Originally, while running, it was misfiring and Check Engine Light was on; Pulled Code p0301 (misfire on #1); cleared code. Started vehicle again and ran fine; next day went to start vehicle- cranked but wouldn't start (no trouble codes set in memory). Checked power to Fuel pump-ok! Checked power at Crankshaft Position Sensor- could not get power (may have been ground I was using). Tried starting with Starting Fluid- would not kick in the least) I don't think this is a mechanical problem...where do I start, and what diagnostic procedure should I use to ascertain problem?

This sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor has gone out, but t be sure let go over this guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back. Ok I need you to check to see if there is any spark to the spark plugs. Pull a spark plug wire and put a screw driver in the end of it and rest it near metal (like valve cover) and crank it and see if there is any spark.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

If not then we need to test the crank and or cam sensor. Get back to me with what you find and what you would like to do.

getting back to you regarding our dialog of Feb 16th-just pushed it back in- will check spark at coil output and forward results
Bill

Checked spark at coil-no spark; where do I check for voltages at the crankshaft/camshaft sensor sensor? I have both a digital multimeter and just purchased POWER PROBE II - LEAD SET COMBO KIT

Ok I would like to test the coil or coils first then go to the cam and crank sensors. So I need to know if you have a coil pack that all the plug wires go to or if you have an individual coil for each cylinder. Get back to me and we will go from there.

racefan966:
Coils are COP
I attached a remote start to starter and turned the key on; I lifted the vehicle and was about to test imput/output voltage at the Crankshaft Positioning Sensor. The wires were protected in corrugated tubing, so I unplugged the connector from the CPS, exposed some of each of the two wires, and plugged back in. I hit the remote starter, and the vehicle started. I shut the vehicle off, unplugged the connector, applied dielectric grease, and plugged the connector back in- turned the key, and it started right up. I believe that our locale (salt air environment-Cape Cod,MA) and the fact that the vehicle is a limo and has 189,000 miles) led to pigtail connector corrosion, as the sensor is located in the front bottom of engine.
Thanks for your help!

Great glad to hear that it was something simple and didn't cost much to fix. If you have any other problems feel free to get in touch with me.

Took my car to car wash and I pressure washed under the hood at the car wash.. drove car home ran great.. next day go to start car cranks over but does not start. The fuel switch in the back trunk has been reset.you can hear fuel pump kick on still won’t start. I’ve checked all fuses no issues looked for access water on all components all good. please i am needing some help.

Hello,

This could be a problem with your vehicle's Crankshaft Position Sensor[CKP]. In the diagrams down below I have included the Power-train Management wiring diagrams for your vehicle with the CKP wires high lighted for you, the location of the CKP, and the Original Equipment Manufacturer[OEM] part number of the CKP for reference as well. Here is a generic guide explaining how to replace a CKP below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Please replace the CKP and report back with how everything turns out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros .

I have a 2002 Town Car that will not start. The engine cranks like normal, battery power is strong, fuel gauge shows full, it just keeps turning over but does not start. There are no warning lights or other symptoms. There has not been any recent maintenance to the battery or anything else. The car was running fine the day before.

I have tried another ignition key which did not help. It doesn’t seem like it is getting fuel so I checked the fuel pump reset switch which was okay. I also checked the fuel pump fuse. Can I get some suggestions on what this could be? If this sounds like a bad fuel pump is there a way for me to test that?

Hello,

This sounds like a classic crankshaft angle sensor that is not working. Here is a guide to help walk you through the steps and the location of the sensor for your car is featured in the diagrams below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

and this guide can help as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

I had this problem and had to replace the sensor fired right up cost me $56.00 for the sensor.

I thought gas line might be frozen, because it did not have a full tank of gas, put heater under it for hours moving from front to back, nothing. it has been running perfect, tried several times, strong crank so battery is good just will not start. please help

We have a lot of these problems in the winter time and it is usually the engine coolant temperature sensor which can be off. This condition will not trigger a check engine light.

Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

Here is what it will be like for your car (below).

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Changed cam and crank sensors, checked connections everywhere including starter ground and transmission wires. Sprayed starter fluid in still crank no start and it didn't sputter like the starter fluid made no difference. thought it might be a bad ground so I ran jumper cables from the negative terminal to the alternator, still cranking but won't start. any ideas?

Have you done a computer scan to see if there are any codes stored? Here is a link to help you scan for codes if you have an OBD2 reader.

Here is another link you can review for not running:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

I also think you need to be checking to see if you have spark? But the computer scan should be the first thing you do to see if any codes are stored that will give a hint to what is going.

Thanks for responding so quickly. I haven't ran a scan because I don't have a reader. The car is in my driveway and the closest auto store that will scan is five miles away. Do you think the ignition control module ( in the steering column) would cause a crank no start?

So I got a computer it says error can not communicate I one bye one upluged every single connection and ran the scan still can't communicate . Any ideas?

When you turn the key on and all the lights come on, does the check engine light illuminate?

Yes.

Check all your fuses to see if one is bad. Also do the checks from the the crank no start test from the link I posted earlier and let us know what those results are.

All fuses are good all relays to the PCM have been replaced .I went threw and checked all connections under the hood, under the car (transmission ) and all wires running to the fuse box .still crank no start . The security light does flash fast when I turn the key forward . I locked the doors . waited ten mins and opened the door with the key still crank no start . After all those things. The scanner is still saying can not communicate. I've installed cam sensor crank sensor ignition switch all relays . Check engine light is on.

Have you done the other checks from the link I posted. Checking for spark, fuel injection pulse? If you have none of those let us know. If it is an immobilizer fault the vehicle will run for a few seconds before the PCM cuts the injector pulse. If you have another key try it as well. What you are describing seems like you may have PCM fault but you need to verify you have fuel pressure, pulse to the injectors, and spark.

If you have all three then I would suspect a plugged catalytic converter. You can try removing a spark plug to see if pressure is relieved. But you would need to do those checks and see if something is missing from those test before we dive into the PCM.

.

All of the coils are fed from the same fuse #12 in the central junction panel, behind left side of dash so make sure the fuse isn't blown.

All my fuses and relays are good my cigar lighter works and it's the same fuse that runs the data link connector but when I run a scan. Says can't communicate. How do I check my PCM?

Pin #12 of the DLc is the purple wire that goes to the pcm pin #13 connector C. Disconnect the plug from the pcm and check for on open/short and short to ground using an ohmmeter on that wire.

Also, when someone asks you to check a fuse, you should use a voltmeter or at least a 12 volt test light and check for power on both sides of the fuse when it is supposed to be hot, most of the time they are hot at all times and other times only with key on run, etc.
In this case of that coil #12 fuse, the key should be on run.

Could this be a security problem ? When I turn my key forward on the security light on the dash flashes fast is that normal ?

Would the security system prevent a scanner from communicating ?

I would have to say yes, this appears to be a security issue.
No, the security system would not prevent the scanner from communicating with the PCM or other modules.
Check the continuity on that purple wire. You are going to have to read the security trouble codes too to find out what is wrong.
If you have a spare key though try that.
If not, clean that key you have where the pellet is and try again.
If the security light goes out finally after ten minutes of leaving the key on run, then you may be able to relearn the password.
You will need a scan tool and I see that the instructions mention something about the instrument cluster.
That is how to enter the "security access procedure".

That was it all I did was turn the key to on waited like five minutes and the light went out. Started right up.

Thanks for all the help guys.

Wow, that surprises me. I get an extra glass of sangria tonight for that magic trick.