05 jaguar x type

sholdn't be vapor lock due to electric fuel pump. the fuel pump may be getting hot and not working. best thing here is to scan engine and check fuel pressure. that would be a start. you mayhave soemthing wrong withone of the sensors or pump. you may also have a bad key so the anti theft won't let the car start. Make sure the key is good as it has to match for theft system to read it. it may also be your evap cannister purge valve not working correctly.

Came up with 2 codes- P0335 crank pos sensor A circuit malfunction and P1111 manufacturer controlled fuel and air metering. I just put the CPS in about a moth ago. Any ideas?

if you have a cranks sensor code then it may be a bad /poor connection like a bad pin or a bare wire. the manufacture controlled fuel /air is a pcm problem but other things may have caused it. you are better off to get it professionally looked at for that.

I have no engine codes on just p1000. I drove to Boston today which is forty five miles each way no engine light came on just when I'm sitting in traffic at stop light car stalls sometimes. I just fixed it yesterday by changing the bearings so all lights are out. I think I need to do what they call a drive cycle but I don't know how long that is I did ninety miles today. Car runs great just stalls out. And as for the overheating problem that I had I took electric cleaner and sprayed each connection and it worked car not overheating. Just need to get rid of the p1000.

Hey [email protected],

I would start by checking your throttle body to see if there is dirt that may be limiting the idle air flow.

Following the guide below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Also i would advise checking for vacuum leaks in the intake.

Following the guide below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

See how you go with these tests and report back. Hopefully that will fix your idle but if not we can work through further tests.

Regards, Joe

Thank you both. I'm off tomorrow I will get under the hood and clean out the throttle body and check for vacuum leaks and intake. As well as all intake now that you got me thinking. Thank you, Kenny. will give you updates

Hey [email protected],

No problem, please do keep us updated. Interested to see what you have going on.

Best of luck, Joe

Thank you Joe I appreciate that. I will definitely. I'll be out there on it tomorrow.

Hey [email protected],

Any progress on your idle issue?

Regards, Joe

Hey my friend, I checked all vacuum hoses I don't see any loose or missing.took the throttle body off and cleaned it. I drove it today it did not cut off a short twenty minute drive. I drove it yesterday and it cut off four times so I don't understand it only cuts off when car come to a stop and I take my foot off the gas and put it on the brake. but it doesn't do it all the time.

Hey [email protected],

Sounds like you could have a vacuum leak from the brake booster.

Try checking for vacuum leaks around the vacuum lines to the brake booster.

At idle if you press the brake pedal does the idle get rough/drop in rpm?

If you have a leaking brake booster you can sometimes hear it hissing when you press the brake pedal down.

Regards, Joe

Hey Joe, hope all is well I just tried that I don't see or hear any leak in the the air hose brake booster seems to be working fine. I scanned it it says EVAP system Inc. comp components Inc. Not sure what that means there are no lights on the p1000 just will not go away and I driven 300 miles. You can only see the p1000 when I plug up the scanner absolutely no lights are on but it won't pass inspection with the p1000 correct? Kenny

Did not see any vacuum leaks around booster or vacuum lines. Sometimes when I stop RPM's drop in and get rough only a few times not all the time today I drove for three hours hit shut off four times when coming to a stop or after I stopped.

Hey [email protected],

So is there an EVAP code stored?

The P1000 is an indication of not having completed the drive cycles necessary to confirm there are no issues after deleting codes.

If there is an EVAP code and you are deleting it you will need to carry out the drive cycle for the EVAP system to carry out its test.

Regards, Joe

I don't have any in dashboard all lights are out. I had one four days ago ABS code and I change the bearings and that code went out I have zero codes but when I go to get a sticker the guy says I have not completed the drive cycle and I've driven 300 miles no codes in the dashboard but when I plug up the scanner I see the p1000 code. Then in the scanner I clicked on drive cycle and it indicated EVAP system Inc I guess that's incomplete.

No there is no EVAP code stored.

Hey Joe oh, I'm sitting in my car right now. Should have told you this before but I wasn't thinking about it. Turn my car off took key out the ignition and I can still hear something like a humming nose and the car is cold not hot been parked for 4 hours I just came out the house.. and I always hear this noise but I forgot to tell you I don't know why sorry. Kenny

Hey [email protected],

Please see the information on completing the drive cycle below.

Ensure the A/C is off.

Regards, Joe

Hey Joe, hope all is well. I just walked out in my garage this morning and I can hear something running from the engine. what would that be that would run all night like that with no key in the car?

Sounds like a humming noise or whining noise.

Hey [email protected],

You will need to try and locate the source of the noise. If something is humming then narrow down the location with your ear then by touching each component in the area try and locate source of the vibration. A stethoscope would be handy in this process but you should be able to feel whatever is vibrating by hand. If you find an electrical component buzzing, disconnect it and see if the noise stops.

Let me know what you find.

Regards, Joe

Hey my friend, I just went out and pin pointed the noise it is not coming from the engine it's coming from the inside the car driver side. sounds like it somewhere in back of the steering wheel somewhere around there. I held my ear to the brake booster and I cannot hear it only when sitting in the car driver side.

Hey [email protected],

Please can you look up under the dash behind the steering wheel and see if you can locate the thing that is buzzing/humming?

Like i said if you should be able to feel it.

Then unplug what ever it is to make sure, if you are not sure what it is send me a picture and i'll do my best to identify it.

Have you tried the drive cycle i sent you before for your p1000 code?

Regards, Joe

Hey Joe, thank you. I'm going to do the drive cycle today after work. I'll also look and feel under the dashboard to see if I could touch what's buzzing. I'll get back to you later thank you. Kenny

Hey Joe, hope all is well my friend. I just went for the drive to clear the p1000 it did not work, but you know what I noticed every time I hit the brake the car will cut off so I think you right it got something to do with the brake booster. but the hose on the brake booster is good. maybe it's the brake booster? I don't know I need your help. I tried to lay underneath the steering wheel to figure out what the whining noise was. it seems like it's in the dashboard or maybe the master cylinder. I don't know, I couldn't pinpoint it definitely know what's on the driver side. I did notice the faster I drove the car and soon as I touch the brake it cut off had to put it in neutral to turn it back on I did that about eight times speed it up touch the brake and the car cut off.

Good morning Joe hope all is well. question, how would I know if the brake booster, brake cylinder is gone? That maybe where the noise coming from. I'm starting to think it's the brake booster or brake cylinder because every time I put my foot on the brake it cuts off and it doesn't matter the speed I'm going now before it was only when I slowed down now I could be going 40 or 50 touch to break car cuts off it's getting worse. Thank you, Kenny

Hey [email protected]

So to test the brake booster you will need a hand held vacuum pump with a gauge, like a Mityvac or similar.

Have you got access to one of these?

It sounds like you may have an internal vacuum leak in the brake booster.

When you move the diaphragm inside by pressing the brake pedal if you have a leak it will cause a sudden surge of unmetered air into the intake which will stall the engine.

Regards, Joe

Hey PRRYPERRYS@AOL. COM,

A quick test for this is if you remove the vacuum hose from the booster and plug it.

Then start the engine and operate the brake pedal.

Does the engine stall?

Reattach and retest.

If it only stalls with the booster connected you have isolated the problem to the booster system.

There is a check valve in the line for the booster, you also want to ensure this only flows one way. It should only open when vacuum is applied from the engine side. The check valve is a cheap part, if suspect replace it and retest.

Hope this helps.

Regards, Joe

Thank you my friend I'm going to try this tomorrow. I'm actually off so that's great that's the only problem I have with that vehicle now it keep cutting off and p1000 will not go out that may be part of the reason there are no lights in the dashboard.. that's great. I will keep you informed.

Thank you very much I appreciate you guys. I tell everyone about you all the time.

Hey [email protected],

We appreciate you spreading the word, we are here to help.

Best of luck with the testing. Sounds like you are getting somewhere with this now.

Regards, Joe

Hey Joe, hope all is well. thank you guys I did get my sticker finally. I have one problem still that we talked about before; whenever the car is completely warmed up and I come to a stop it shuts off. No code lights on. And it pass inspection. It just shuts off after driving about twenty minutes and when I stop or slow way down. and it feels like the brake pedal push back sometime so I'm wondering is it the brake booster on it way out. If I take my foot off the gas and let it slowly stops without pushing the brake sometime it don't shut off and sometimes it does. I'm really confused. please help. thank you

If I can jump in here. it seems like the throttle bore needs to be serviced. Here is a guide to help walk you through the service:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Please run down this guide and report back.

Hey Ken oh, that's what I was thinking it was too I already did that and that did not work I end up ordering a new throttle body and put it on and it still cuts off. Only when the car is warm after driving about 25 minutes it starts to cut off. And I also have another problem the AC has been charged but it only blows hot air. But back to the cutting off to you think it might be the EGR valve or something else I just can't figure it out Ken.

If there are no codes I would try swapping out the PCM. Let me know what happens.

Okay, thank you.

Hey guys update remember I said p1000 would not go out auto shops kept telling me I had not completed the drive cycle which I had come to find out it was a problem with the Ford part and a Jaguar part the reason P1000 would not clear . The registry gave me a sticker and told me the next time I get a sticker it should clear. Thank you all set with sticker.

Now I have another problem I had the air conditioner charged and it still only blows warm to cool air never cold doesn't matter if I'm driving or sitting still it doesn't get cold

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.


Please post your new question here, you must be logged in.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Cheers, Ken

Hey guys update, the reason car kept shutting off and stalling out when applying breaks or at idle it was the mass air flow sensor. I changed it once I guess the one I put on was defective and I end up changing it again car runs nice.. the reason the p1000 will not go away it was a manufacturer defect between a jaguar apart and a Ford part registry gave me a sticker and said I should not have to go to that problem again. I had no engine lights on thank you guys you guys are awesome. Kenny