Battery light on

do you have a multi meter to.do some testing. you most likely have a bad alternator.

Thanks for the reply!

I don't have a multimeter, I think auto-zone will test my alternator for free. You don't think that I could have messed up the connection?

Steve

the battery light comes.on.because of.low.charging volts so.a issue with the alternator.Iwas.asking about a.multi.meter.to.check.charging voltage and.power inputs.into.the alternator.

Thanks. I'd better get it checked out. I will fiddle with the connections a bit but your probably right about the alternator :(

keep me posted

Just purchased car. Battery light on, had no heat or a/c, radio, clock, headlights interior lights, horn. Although hazards, blinkers, parking lights, power windows and locks worked. But wipers were very slow to wipe. Needed alternator changed. Put in rebuilt unit. Now, A/c, headlights work. But radio, interior lights, horn, clock still don't. Wipers still wipe very slow. Had car running for about 10 minutes, Rpms started to surge and stalled. Battery dead.
Recharged battery and started back up.
What could be the problem?
Thanks in advance.

Here's a guide to start off with:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

This came from "Repair Guides" in the top right of our pages, there are others in there that might aid you also.

I grabbed you a charging system diagram from "Prodemand".

It shows the whole system, locations of components, and other information.

Pay particular attention to the fusible links, they may be fried leaving that circuit open. If so, always replace them with the same kind of animal! They are the last line of defense and you don't want your wires to catch on fire!

The Medic

Thank you for the reply. Do you think that reversing the cables on a portable jump box would have caused this?
Battery was dead when I bought car, and I suspect the auction attendant inadvertently put the wrong cables on the wrong battery terminals when moving the car. (car was running fine before I bid on it)

I was asked to make the diagram more readable!

I use a 42" TV for a monitor, I'm spoiled in that everything is big!

I sometimes forget distortions and such as when I load it onto the site.

So here's the same diagram, this time in two screenshots.

The 1st is the top, 2nd is the bottom and I insured there was overlap so that nothing is lost!

The Medic

Thank you for that. I was going to ask to make it more readable, but didn't want to impose further.

Also, do you think that the new alternator has been damaged by idling the car and then having it surge and stall after 10 minutes of running?

I'm doubtful that your alternator got damaged. You can verify its serviceability by either testing it while it's still on the vehicle.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Having the auto parts store do it if you can drive it there or by removing it and having it tested at an auto parts store.

Never hesitate on asking us for info you might need.

Keep us posted with progress.

The Medic

Thank you for the reply.
I Replaced the 120 amp battery fuse.

The new one (Bussman brand) is slightly different (the way the prongs are shaped)
But it fits just the same.

Is this a problem?
Am I looking for trouble with this replacement fuse?

The auto parts store clerk told me the fuse is a dealer item only.

I got this one (Bussman brand) off the shelf.

See attached pictures for clarification.

Incidentally, my horn, clock, interior lights and radio still don't work.
Wipers do wipe somewhat faster than before.

What am I missing Here?

Fuses (mini type that you can see through if they are burnt out or not) are,good.

Could some of the relays under the hood Inside The fuse box be burnt out?

Thank you again.

The Bussman fuse will probably be just fine as long as it is rated the same as the original.

I consulted with another feller about possible happenings to your rig. Maybe the car has a parasitic draw. Have the battery tested at a parts store.

Then run a draw test using a test light and pulling fuses.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

(Pasted from other expert) If he is correct it could have been hit with reverse polarity if they used a cheap jump box. That could have cooked the diodes in the old alternator. If so it could have gotten into the fuse box but more likely is it fried a component in the radio or body module and now things don't work. Or if those items share power or ground.

The clock, radio, interior lighting all share a power feed from fuse 18 in the interior fuse panel, which comes through the ignition switch.

The horn and A/C also share a feed through relays so it's possible that is a bad horn relay if it got fried.

So like I cannot take credit for all of that info.

If you would like additional diagrams, please include your VIN, with so many variations of the same car, it really aids in insuring the correct diagrams are are found for a particular vehicle.

The Medic

Hi,
Thanks again to you (and your friend) for the reply.

Where is the interior fuse panel? (To check for fuse 18) I looked under the dash and in the front kick panels to no avail.

Perhaps changing the horn relay is worth a shot?

My vin is kmhdn45d63u685779.
Thank you

It is the "passenger compartment junction block" hiding up behind the dash to the left of the steering column. You also have the relay block out under the hood. There is also a TSB that might apply to your issue. The gist of it is that the negative battery cable can corrode internally and become a problem. An easy way to test that is to use one lead on a set of battery jumper cables, attach one clamp to the negative battery terminal and the other clamp to a good engine ground. If things suddenly start working again the ground is faulty. If you want to test it further you can use a meter to test the voltage across the battery cables like the last picture. The drop should be less than .20 volts if you test on each end. So if you connect the meter to the battery negative post, then touch the other probe to the point where the ground cable connects to the body you should get less than the .20 volts. You can also test the body ground to the engine using the same type of test.

Thank you, will look into this and let you know.

STEVE W. is on of our best! Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.