2005 Honda Pilot rear blower not working

check ground wire for being broken or a poor ground see pic

Thanks for the response!
I tried to find that ground wire but could not with all the black tape and housing surrounding all the wires. I really do not want to remove all the tape. So, do you know where it is exactly? Or can you provide a photo? I did find what I think is the rear blower motor relay. Is it just right of the blower screen on the drivers side? I also included two photos, hopefully, you can point me in the right direction.
Finally, why does the blower resistor (it is laying on the carpet in photo #1) turn on when I ground it to the frame?
Thanks,
Ray

we have no photos of the ground wire however it wil be bolted to the dash and not in the harness it will come out of the harness and probably is a single wire look under lh side of dash the blower works because you end up hitting the resistor to ground and it completes the circuit. the wire could be broken as well.

OK, I tested the ground wire, because I could not find the actual ground to the metal frame location, from the relay as shown in your diagram and it is good. Will this test indicate the ground wire from the relay good?
I also tested the ground wire from the rear blower resistor and it is also good. Once again I did not find the actual ground to metal location.
I am still puzzled when I touch the rear blower resistor housing, ie the aluminum fins on the outside of the resistor, to the metal frame turns the blower on! If that ground wire to the resistor is good, why is the resistor housing allowing the blower to turn on when grounded?
Now, what else could be wrong? Could the relay be bad?
Thanks,
Ray

I screwed up do this test that I am sending in the two pics. I think this may be what is wrong with it. you'll need a volt ohm meter. when you measure resistance between 3 and 5 it should be 4-5 ohms if not replace resistor. also on ground on connector just touch other end of ohmmeter to any steel piece and it should go t zero. if not then the wire may be broken

I just replaced the rear blower resistor. It was the first thing I did and it has only 4 wires not 5. Here is the service bulletin that applies to my vehicle. Also, I already tested the ground on the rear blower resistor and it was good.
Any ideas?
Thanks

the one I find with a 4 connector is a 2004 pilot not 2005 is this auto temp control? meaning you set the temp by degrees. either way have it scanned as I've run out of ideas fo finding the problem unless you just run a wire to aluminum piece and run it like that as you said it worked that way

It is a 2005 and does not have a digital control. If I run a wire from the housing of the rear blower resistor to ground, it will run all the time and will not turn off. Even with the car off, if I touch the metal frame it comes on....

Can you answer why the housing is either positively or negativity charged when the car key is off? Is there a short in the system?
Thanks again,

this bugged the hell out of me as I looked on rock auto an dit shows a 4pin like you say but the damn manual shows 5 so try this one here that I'm sending again it is a 4 pin connector and thenumbers are the same so see if this gives you something. your problem may be the relay underhood or wherever it is but do this check. also switch your hvac relay or blower motor with a like one to see if that corrects it as well. if it's doing what you say I'd have to say the relay is stuck. not being able to check this physically is making me batty I have nothing further to add on this though. I fthis is a pay or donor question let me know an di'll see you get your dontation back

Alright, did the test and the showed everything is correct.
Now, to throw in another problem, when I turn the ignition on, the rear blower comes on all the time and will not shut off even when I turn off the A/C. It will only turn off when I turn the ignition to the off position. And when I removed the resistor from the duct it was hot!
Now going back to the original problem of the rear blower not working and I replaced the resistor only. Could the resistor I replaced be a bad one?

Questions
1. What turns on the rear blower. The switch on the dash?
2. Does the resistor control the speed of the fan?

I'm to the point now of having a pro look at this to see what they can figure out as every test that' I've sent shows that everything is good but still screwed up. one thing if you control switch for blower does not turn off meaning power to blower it will run while ignition switch is on. the resistor will get hot / warm as it controls what speed to have the blower move except for high which power goes through the relay. all of that is controlled by the blower speed switch. If the blower control switch does not have off like= off-1-2-3-4 the blower will continue to run until the control-heat/ac etc is m oved to off.

Sorry, but you lost me.
First, what is the "control switch for the blower"?
Second, what is the blower speed switch?
Third, I am not sure if you answered my question. What turns on the rear blower, the rear blower resistor?
Fourth, how does the power flow? Does it go to the relay first, then to the blower?
And just to reiterate, only the rear blower stays on even if I turn off everything on the dash, ie no A/C or heat. The controls on the dash are computerized, no dials, if that helps.
Thanks,
Ray
PS, I am trying to understand how the rear blower works, thus, all the questions....

have a pro scan this for codes or have him look at it to see what the hell is wrong with it I cannot answer you any longer it has gone out of my range without actually seeing this and testing it my self. your control head 1 turn on the blower if it is on high speed it goes through the relay any other speed it goes through the resistor then to the blower the blower then turns on when power is received. I have explained this twice now and without actually going to your house and showing you what does what I'm not really sure you will understand .I have no further comments or suggestions.

I finally found out what was wrong. The rear blower resistor, which i recently bought was no good. The thermal cutoff was bad. I did a test, which I found on the web. You jump the thermal fuse (thermal cutoff). The AC/Heat work great on all speeds.
I did a lot of reading on this and I found out many Pilot owners replaced this thermal cutoff. It is a 50/50 chance it works. It either works, comes on all the time (like mine did) or doesn't. Just my opinion but I think the best thing is too buy one from the dealer at the lower price possible.
Anyway, just FIY for you on my issue...

thank you for your reply our manual doesn't even show that in the diagram and there are no tips from other mechanics to pass this on to. guess i'll have to do that now lol...... thanks again and glad you have it working.