My drivers side door lock

I dont think that the trunk cyl can be switched. It might be able to. Its not hard, just time consuming to replace so Im guessing $2-300.

Power door locks issue. Door would not lock with FOB, I replaced driver side actuator, door locks now but will not open with a delay longer than one second then locks again. Also inside getting out pulling on the door latch after it is open locks the doors. So outside lifting up on door latch locks them unless it is in that 1 sec. window.

Check for a stuck relay.

The door actuator could have been installed out of alignment or the lock/unlock switch is bad.

The relay would be where? I do not have a factory manual on this car. The actuator installed and all the holes lined up and it locks now. The issue is there is only a 1 sec. delay before it locks again and also pulling the handle from inside or outside locks it unless it is in the 1 sec. window. Isn't there a controller for this action? In other words what set the delay time? All the other doors work properly so I would think that the lock/unlock switch is ok?

The door lock/unlock switch is on the inside door handle trim plate. If it is out of adjustment, it can self-lock. Remove the door panel and disconnect the switch to test if porblem remains or goes away.

The system is controlled by the Multiplex Control Unit and it does not have this delay function etc. Unless a signal is being sent to it to lock the door, the door should not lock.

Use a meter or test light to see if the switch is activating the lock or if the relay is either generating or receiving a spurious signal.

I will try that on Sat. when my son brings the car back.

Thanks

Darn kids taking our cars when we need them the most! Brings back memories.

So I figured it out, one of the small screws that holds the actuator on the head stripped some so I had my son find another one and it was just about a little longer. Well the spot I used it in was the one that when it was too long binds the actuator arm, so it was being held locked. Correct size screw now and it is fine. Thanks for all the suggestions, now to get the SRS light to go out, no codes though Honda has had a recall on this since the car had about 50,000. They keep replacing the seatbelt latch.

If the SRS light is showing, there must be trouble codes, unless the control unit or its wiring is bad. Seat belt latch would throw codes too and does replacing the latch make any difference?

Didn't Honda people tell you anything about the trouble codes?

My son just bought the car about a month ago, one owner with records and synthetic oil since day one. I do not have any trouble codes with my reader which is strange and will reset it the next time I see it. I was going to call the dealer and see if the recall was still valid since it is the SRS system. In the records replacing the latch seems to work for a while then starts to come back and they do it again. I agree the control unit may be bad which means it may not work when needed.

Normal code readers might not be able to read other than engine and transmission codes.
You need a compatible scan tool to do that.

Electrical problem
1998 Honda Accord 6 cyl Automatic 130000 miles

Hi,
RE: 1998 2-door Honda Accord V6
I have a Viper Automatic Car Starter (had it about 5 yrs). For the last couple winter's when I use the remote to unlock the car it takes a minute to unlock at some points when it gets really cold the locks never come up by using the remote...I have to stick the key in the door and then the lock immediately pops up. Someone told me that it might be the actuator but I don't know if that is the problem because I have a 2 door car and neither of the locks unlock with the remote or it either takes awhile after I keep pushing the unlock button for the locks to finally come up. The strange thing is that I don't have this problem in the summer so it seems that it has something to do with the cold weather.
Thank you for your assistance!!

Try this the next time they don’t work.
Unlock the car with your key.
Get in the car and shut the door.
Lock the door.
Press the Button on the door to unlock it. (DO NOT MANUALLY PULL ON THE LOCK) did the lock come up all the way?
Now lock the door again and try the remote.

If it didn’t unlock when you pressed on the button on the door then the alarm system is not the problem.

The grease in the actuator and linkages gets hard as it ages and cold weather doesn’t help.

good luck

Thank you for the reply to my question about the 98 Honda lock problem. I will try the solution you suggested to see if it works. I will bookmark your website for future car problems and increase the amount of the donation next time. I was just a little skeptical this time :o) as it was my first time using this site and wanted to make sure it was legit.
Thanks Again for your assistance!!
P.S. I am sure I will be back again as my car is 10 years old and everything is starting to fall apart.

hey you come back whenever you need to, and yes the donations are so greatly appreciated.

1. Does Power door locks include the knob, rod, latch & actuator or are can one function without the other?
2. My passenger door will not open, the locking swithces will not lock or unlock my door (have to pull up knob manually), and the remote will not lock or unlock the door ( I have to use the key & then set the alarm).
3. How do you know which of the above caponets has malfunctioned or do they all operate together.
4. Do you have to break the door or latch to figure out the problem?
5. What are the donation question ranges (I don't know an appropirate amt to donate)?

Thank you

1. Power door lock includes the switch, circuit breaker and actuator. Everything else are parts of manual door lock. All parts of manual lock work together, and all power lock work together, in conjunction with the manual lock.

2 and 3. Your actuator is bad.

4. Remove the door panel, locate and replace the actuator.

5. It is all up to you. We thank you for your donation.

Thank you very much........

I just bought a used 1997 accord, and none of the power door locks work, When I push the lock button, you can hear the lock motors in all the door work, but the lock won't budge. I was wonder what this might be, would it be the actuator since they are all not working?

Does it have an after-market alarm? If it does remove the door lock part of it

It doesn't have an aftermarket alarm, I can hear all the motor working, and every once in awhile the drivers door will work, like 1/100 times. Very strange.

My power door locks still aren't working, I can hear all the moters when I push either the drivers power door lock, or the passenger side switch. I have removed rear passenger door panel, and I think i'm going to try install a new actuator back there. Could all my actuators are out? I took it to a mechanic that has the reputation of having a lot of experience. He said that it had to be all the actuators because if it was a switch/relay, no power would get to any of the doors. Any advance knowledge>?

Electrical problem
1996 Honda Accord Engine Size unknown Front Wheel Drive Automatic 175000 miles
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My '96 Honda Accord seems to be posessed. When I first got the car about 18 months ago, I had to replace the lock motor in the driver's side door. Just 6 months ago, the rear driver's side door started malfunctioning in the same way, but I've yet to fix it since I rarely use that door. Well the other day, I started driving the car and the locks just started locking & unlocking on their own.....or at least trying to. Sometimes it happens so fast that it doesn't have time to fully unlock before it locks itself again. Mind you, this is while I'm not pressing any buttons. Sometimes it happens just once every ten mins. and sometimes it's 20 times in one min. Yesterday when I would press the lock/unlock button on the car door, the locks wouldn't move, nor would they even make a sound. Yet today, they attempt to lock, but yet won't do anything when pushing up to lock them.

I also have an alarm on the car, and when I press the button to unarm the car & unlock the doors, it does one of two things. It sometimes attempts to unlock the doors and fails, or it doesn't even attempt to unlock them at all. Either way, I end up having to use the key to manually unlock it.

The car can even be sitting by itself, while either running or not, and it locks & unlocks itself. So I either have to make sure I have a window down or my spare key on me so I don't get locked out.

We've checked the fuses and they're fine. The only thing that was recently done to the car was last week when we took off the driver's side door panel to spray some silicone lubricant on the tracking for the window to make it work better.

Everyone telling me something different when it comes to fixing this problem! I'd like your opinion!

I have not had that bad experience but my Ford Excursion had them all go out, one right after the other. I would do as you are and try to put in one and see what happens. It must be the actuator.

I also have a 96 accord and am having door lock problems. I can hear the doors lock. unlock driving on the interstate, sometimes several times in a row! My right door buzzes kinda loud when it locks, and I can hear it doing this when sitting in the driveway by itself!

I have found that Honda changed the door lock/unlock controller mounted in the driver's door starting in 1996. I suspect the first version has some problems. I plan on simply replacing this module to see if it solves my problems. I also have a question about it in here, but because I offered no money, I don't expect an answer. I see you didn't get one! I think the money would be better spent on a new power lock controller. It is mounted in the driver's door, and looks easy to replace. I'm going to see if Autozone offers them for replacement tomorrow. This one seems to be missing from Ebay motors. Must be a popular item!

joliger

I have a 91' Honda Accord EX 4-door 135,000/m [engine sz unknown]

My driver side door won't open. My step-dad used to be a honda tech and he got me a genuine actuator from the dealership he used to work at. The problem is he cannot get the door to open. He has taken the all the panelling off and has even drilled into the actuator numerous times. It will not budge at all. I need to know exactly where on the actuator he needs to drill thru so that the door will open. Or I need a push in the right direction for where to go for a picture diagram of the insides of the actuator. Please Help!!

You have a new actuator. I would venture that you should be able to see what linkage needs to be yanked to open the door from the new one. Our software that we have access to only describes replacement and not gut components.

If he is going to that work, why not just bust the whole thing apart and gain access. Nothing left to hurt on that actuator or save.

Someone told me today that my current actuator still "thinks" it is locked so it will not release the latch to let my door open and that since I have the kind if lock where you pull up that I need to somehow pull it up real hard to get the acutator to unlock.

My step dad has ruined my current actuator from spending almost 3 hours drilling at it trying to get it to open.

I still need help!! I just need to know how the heck to get teh friggin door open!! I cannot climb over the passenger seat much longer!!