No Spark?

check fuses underhood first as one may have blown, then scan for codes. also circuit breaker 1a and 32 in the smart junction box. then check crank and cam sensors against new ones resistance wise

This guide can help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Please run down this guide and report back.

The old rangers had what was known as an inertia switch that would shut off power to the fuel pump, and also shut down spark in the event of an accident. sometimes these switches would fail. If you can't hear the fuel pump cycle, I would look to see if the new rangers have something similar. Also, If both of these things fail, you could have a bad PCM relay. You should hear/feel it click when you turn the switch to the on position. hope this helps.

Got stranded the other day. There's plenty of battery so the engine cranks but it just won't catch. Acts like there is no spark or fuel getting to the cylenders. It's happened twice now - both times during wet weather but there are no obvious signs of moisture anywhere in the engine compartment. The first time it started an hour later and then ran fine. This time it still won't start. Any thoughts on what it could be?

Have a helper crank it while you visually check for spark at the spark plugs. If you have spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel pressure. You got to start testing, somewhere.

Put new coil, new plugs and wires, new heads, and injectors, but cylinder three has no fire. What could be my problem now?

Good afternoon.

I would start by doing a compression test to see if there is an internal issue with the engine.

Also, if you have a noid light, check the injector harness for the cylinder and see if there is a flashing light on the noid to be sure the ECM is grounding the injector to fire.

Roy

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

We already did compression test and noid light.
Everything was good.

Okay, you need to go back and re check.

Go to basics. Is there spark at the plug?

Is the injector firing or being commanded to fire?

If you have a vacuum gauge, check the vacuum at idle and see if it is steady at 20 inches.

Roy

My Ranger shutoff a week ago on a thursday night all the guages showed normal operating conditions. I was driving and lost enginge power, tried shift gears and no go. Coasted to a stop and turn off all accessories, a/c and phone charger, engine cranked back up then. Three days later it cut off again same feel and situation this time it did not turn back on. Thought it was the fuel system so replaced pump, guage was out anyways, and fuel filter. I am getting plenty of fuel to my injectors and can smell it coming out of the tail pipe when trying to turn the engine over. So next step I decided to check spark, pulled the Number one plug and held it and wire next to exhaust manifold to see if I could get a spark to jump and did not get a spark. Plug looked good still and the wires are less then two years old. I think it might be the DIS ignition coil pack . Is there anyway to test it, and if it is not it what other parts of the igniton system could be affecting this?

Hi
at coli connection find Red/Light Green wire key on power? if yes place test light on any yellow striped wire crank does it flash?
Let me know
Thanks for donate

I tried the using the test light on the wires mentioned and did not get the flashing light. I test my test light on other connections and it was working.

Was there voltage on Red/Light Green?

Didn't light up but I'll check there again. I checked all of the relays as well. Charging battery back up ince it died last night while trying to get it to crank.

hi dlg, how are you doing with your testing? Thank you for using 2CarPros.com. We appreciate your donation and look forward to helping you in the future.

ive changed both the crank sensor and the cam sensor also the coils wires and the spark plugs but still no spark i checked wiring to the coils there is no power there either i wanted to replace the ignition control module but i cannot find it someone told me it maybe inside the computer is this true

Your truck has a DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) so therefore it doesnt have an Ignition Control Module. Just to be sure before you buy anything, check ALL fuses, Underhood and Driver side dash. If all good or replaced and no diference. Call up a local salvage yard and get a PCM or Computer and you will be fixed.

I recently replaced the starter in my 94 ranger, 2.3 ltr 5 sp. The starter was bad and had to be replaced, and when we tried to start it, the truck just cranked and cranked without starting. I was hoping that my son didn't fry the computer by hooking up the positive cable last. Also i have an autoxray 2500 that would not read the computer at all, and the check engine light does not work when the key is turned on initially. Please help
Tony

Check fuse #4 in under hood box

two ground wires coming from the battery for the fuel pump and the ecc was barely connected. after i connected them the truck finally came alive. I'm sure it was from my son and I tugging on the starter cables
thanks anyway for your help

Electrical problem
1994 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

i had made a mistake of connecting the battery wrong the positive on the negative and negative on the positive and sparks came out and then i try to start the car but it only crank now it doesnt want to start i have check all the sensor and relays and i change the computer and spark plugs and cables, and the coil but there is no spark for the motor to start can u help me get a spark?

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

No spark to plugs.

Good morning,

I attached a wiring diagram for you to view. Make sure there is power to both the ignition module and the coil at the wires I highlighted.

When you crank the engine, does the tachometer move up a little? Trying to see if the crank sensor is working.

Roy

motor turns will not start these parts were replaced coil timing belt control module crankshart sensor

then either you have a bad ignition module or a bad coil.

is it distrbutied or is it DIS?

1994 Ford Ranger Super Cab. 2WD, 5sp manual transmission, 3.0 V-6 engine. 274,000 miles. I was driving home yesterday when the engine just stalled. I'm absolutely sure that I'm getting fuel, but not spark. I've pulled an ignition wire with the plug, held it close to the block when cranking, there is no spark. I'd replaced the distributor cap, rotor, plugs & wires within the last 3 months. I replaced the coil today. Still no spark. My repair manual hints at an EDIS distrubutor ignition module secured somewhere near my radiator support, but I cannot find or identify it. Can you discribe this better than my manual does in finding & replacing this unit, & could this be my problem?

Ok, I changed the distributor ignition module today. I still have no spark to the spark plugs. I unplugged the primary wire to the coil & the tester light comes on there when cranking, but for some reason, I'm still not getting spark through to the plugs. I'm out of ideas. Any suggestions?

I've found my solution. It turns out that I was correct in my "assumption" that I wasn't getting spark. I didn't need a tester to know that my self-tested plugs weren't firing. I went to the parts store & bought a distributor & installed it. After I'd figured out how to set the timing order to 10 degrees BTDC & set my distributer where the rotor button was near hitting the number one plug, it fired right back up. It was simply a matter of then turning my distributor until it came back into time.Thank you guys for all your suggestions.

my truck stopped runner and i found i have no spark

There is a few more things you need to check to get the whole picture.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

truck just wouldn't start one day changed plugs, wires, coil pack, ecm computer, crankshaft sensor, battery, fuses, relays, alternator and im still getting no fire to my plugs???? any suggestions ive been on this project for over a month now...

do you have an anti theft system in vehicle, aftermarket or stock? if so, is anti theft light flashing or staying solid? may also want to try different key.

Hi,

We can help you with this information. this engine has two ignition coils (intake and exhaust, it sounds that you will have to start from the begging, start with spark at the wire, if you see some spark, move to checking fuel pressure and power to injectors, there should be on right side foot area inertia switch,(find and press the button if have not ).
Please run down these guides and report back.

Cheers, Nick