Thermostat and housing replacement

Hello,

Follow this step by step guide then check out the instruction and diagrams below to help you with your car.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION
Do not remove pressure cap with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.

Drain the cooling system into a suitable container
Disconnect the radiator lower hose from thermostat housing.
Remove nuts from the heater tube flange studs.

Loosen the starter bolt at heater tube bracket.
Pull the heater tube out of thermostat housing and position out of the way.
Remove the thermostat housing (1), O-ring (2) and thermostat (4).
Remove the thermostat housing bolts (3).

To install:

Thoroughly clean the gasket sealing surfaces.
NOTE
Install the thermostat with the bleed valve located at the 12 o'clock position, between tabs on seal.

Install the thermostat and seal (2) into thermostat housing (1).
If removed, install the two studs.
Lubricate a new heater return tube O-ring with coolant.
Position the heater return tube flange over the two studs. Install the 3 retaining nuts and torque to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm).
Tighten the starter bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
Connect the lower radiator hose to the thermostat housing. Install the hose clamps.
Refill cooling system

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-thermostat

Connect the negative battery cable. Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

how do you replace the thermostat housing on a 2.7


updated 2/15/10
not that one the one in back of the power steering pump with the water outlet tube?

[quote:040ea1e6de="kris.nowicki2"]Engine Cooling problem
2005 Chrysler 300 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 138549 miles

how do you replace the thermostat housing on a 2.7[/quote:040ea1e6de]

Let me guess you have coolant leaking around the bleeder on the t-stat housing. This is a pretty simple
fix. There are only a 3 or 4 bolts holding the housing
on but you cant get to all of them because the upper
intake is in the way. You can usually get to the hidden bolts if you just loosen all of the upper intake plenum bolts. Remove and replace the housing, dont forget the gasket/o-ring, bolt the upper intake manifold back down and your done. just fill it up and bleed out all the air.

I need to replace my cooling thermostat and wondered if that was difficult to do by myself? I am trying to save $$ for the holidays :)

I totally understand. As far as replacing the thermostat, it isn't too hard. What you need to do is disconnect the neg battery terminal, drain the radiator, and then follow the upper radiator hose to the engine. It will lead you to the thermostat housing. Remove the hose (one clamp) and then remove the housing (two bolts). Pay attention to the direction the original thermostat is positioned so you get the new one in correctly. Clean all old gasket material from engine block and housing, put it back together in the reverse order.

If you run into trouble, let me know.
Joe
PS: Merry Christmas

While driving the anitfreeze/ coolant is leaking from the front passenger side.
Could the be the thermostat?

Hi Happy New Year
I need some help in locating my thermostat in order to replace old with a-new one.
Thanks
RK

Follow top rad. hose to block there it is . aremove housing replace.

where is the thermostat located on the chrysler 300m series year 2000?

What do you have for engine?
If it’s the 3.5 thermostat is located at the lower radiator hose, near the oil filter .

Heat started to blow cold - checked fluid level - fine - water temp was fine
replaced thermostat with OEM and antifreeze . . . problem still exists
is there a cabin or other sensor that could tell the unit to blow cold?

Yes there is something else you can check. It is the heater blend door or door actuator. When the door is stuck it will not direct the air through the heater core so all you get it cool outside air.

[quote:a2dc4c8b71="racefan966"]Yes there is something else you can check. It is the heater blend door or door actuator. When the door is stuck it will not direct the air through the heater core so all you get it cool outside air.[/quote:a2dc4c8b71]

Thanks for the reply racefan966 - where is this actuator door and is there a manual open/close switch?

thanks in advance

the heater house where it attaches is stripped out. its a specialty screw . it is a screw that has a screw end then a bolt attached then another screw end.. where the screw screws into the block thats were it is stripped on the inside of the block

about the only way to fix this is a heli coil which means drilling the block tapping for the heli coil inserting the coil then reassembly of part. You might try retapping the block first with the correct tap it may work if you don't want to drill. you would have to use a rethreader not a tap for the retapping however. auto parts sell the heli coils in a kit long as you know what size your threads are. yours are going to be metric but there are several sizes as well as thread pitch. picture is an example

I'm trying to replace my car thermostat And the housing is stuck Please help immediately Cannot drive the car until this is fixed.

unscrew the bolts and remove it.

I tried that It's late for now it's like back to stuck in position in the Wrong position.

just check the thermostat operation. Remove the top hose at the radiator. take the cap off and insert a garden hose on medium pressure. Then start the car up if the water continuously runs out of the top hose. The thermostat is stuck open. it should cycle as the car warms up the thermostat opens and you will see water coming out of the top hose. it should cycle like this water comes out the top hose when the thermostat is opening then when it closes it stops.