My engine is hard to start?

If the check engine light has come on, check for trouble codes. Also, check to make sure the EGR is clean and not carboned shut as well as where it attaches to the intake. Finally, check fuel pump pressure. It may drop after the pump warms up.

These guides will help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Please run down these guides and report back.

I have a 2003 Chevy Blazer 4x4 4.3 V6. Over a period of a few months, the truck is becoming successively more difficult to start - it acts as if it's not getting gas right away.

It's been checked at the local mechanic and the usual recommendations have been suggested (most which were already done)

It's had (recently) new plugs, wires, fuel filter, and thermostat (mechanic assured us it was faulty, so at <$15, I replaced)

The engine turns over just fine, so I don't anticipate any starter/battery/charger issues. However, it takes several rotations before the engine will fire.

Once it's running, there's no bogging, hesitation, or apparent loss of power? Also, restarts after short periods of being off do not show the same symptoms.

I know the fuel pump is supposed to run for 1-2 secs before actual turn over? I don't expect any pump issues, though, as it has no problem once started.

ANY thoughts?? Thanks in advance!

One additional note...the catalytic converter HAS gone out on this and has not yet been replaced - could this cause the issue (due to incorrect sensor reading on the exhaust side?)

Also looked into adjusting timing to find it self-adjusts...my only other thoughts are possibly PCV valve or oxygen sensor (no codes thrown though), or fuel injectors (the entire assembly would have to be replaced...)

Also, what is a good product to run through the tank to clean the injectors / fuel line?

If your fuel pressure regulator is bleeding down, the 1 to 2 second "prime shot" may not be long enough. Try a little experiment, turn the key to on/off,on/off, 3 or 4 times and "then go to start and see what happens. Let me know.

Three key-turns does the trick, haven't tried it with two yet...

Told the wife it's probably just the age of the vehicle...104K is getting long in the tooth for any Chevy these days...

I don't suppose there is any way to lengthen the time the fuel pump turns on when the key is first applied?

I've recommended to the wife to steer clear of off-brand gas stations...

Also, as a side note to the side note, the wife's favorite mechanic is losing their touch...turns out the catalytic was just fine...it was the blatantly obvious broken exhaust weld in FRONT of the catalytic that was causing the rattle...

Thanks for the help - let me know if you recommend anything else!

(Also, fuel pressure measured just fine...)

The 2 to 3 second "prime" shot is burned into the program chip, so it's non-adjustable. Over time the pressure regulator valve and the check valve in the fuel pump wear a little causing your problem. The solutions for the problem are obvious, but as long as you're aware of it, and can live with it I wouldn't worry. Glad you found it.

hard starting, takes 20-30 times to start, or a little starting fluid to start,can drive it all day long no problem,turn it off and restart no problem, but when set over nite, next morning hard starting, i change fuel filter, at that time it was dirty the fuel was , and change plugs, no trouble code comes on, today i took the fuel line off of the filter, and turned the key on, it pump about 3/4 to 1 inch fuel into the bottom of a quart mason jar, this is the first time i ever had any problems

Hi jeff1961, Welcome to 2Carpros and TY for the donation

When you turn key to On-do you hear the fuel pump come on for a few secs-if so check the fuel pressure with a gauge it should read 60-66 psi If not check and test the fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay. Also check and test the oil pressure sending unit to include the coolant temperature sensor.

i never got the email, when you anwsered my question, but after i took the fuel filter off that day, and release the fuel from the line from the valve , it seem to help it better, now it only takes 5-10 times before it starts, i will try what you reccomend, dont worry about the donation

I have a 2002 Chevy Blazer with 130,000 miles. Within the past month I have to crank it for about 10 min before it will catch and stay running. Sometimes it will start after about 5 cranks other times its 10-12. Once it starts it stays running and will run with out stalling or hesitation. After work I find it only takes me a few cranks to start.

Just recently the only way the car will start in the early morning is when I spray starting fluid directly into the throttle body. After doing this the car starts right up and has no problems running. If I do not spray starting fluid in the throttle body then the car will not start, it only cranks. Even after numerous trys the car will still not turn over.

Sounds like the fuel pump relay may have failed. Do you hear the fuel pump run for two seconds when you just turn on the key? If not you can test the relay easily. It is in the relay center on the inner fender under the hood. Just swap it with the DRL relay. If you now hear the pump when you turn on the key you need a new relay. Some of them had spares in the relay center. If yours has one use it.
In the event that the relay change didn't help it could be the relay socket itself or the wiring going to it from the ECM. That is a bit harder to test but not too bad.

2001 Blazer 4.3 v6 147000. Intermittent cold start problem. My truck is hard to start maybe twice a month in the mornings. It is especially hard to start after rainy, humid weather. It turns over, then immediately sputters and dies out. If I press the accelerator during starting, it will sometimes eventually start, after softly backfiring in a few attempts. Yes, I do smell gas, but no black smoke is apparent. I have had the plugs, wires and cap changed. I have replace the fuel pump, filter and spider-piece (injectors). After it starts, there are no more problems for the rest of the day. It runs great. Gas Mileage sucks though. It used to emit a raw smell which my mechanic suspected to be coming from the catalytic converter. No other symptoms though. What gives?!

Check and make sure the crank sensor is clean and tight. Also, has the check engine light come on?

[quote:907d448959="Jacobandnickolas"]Check and make sure the crank sensor is clean and tight. Also, has the check engine light come on?[/quote:907d448959]

Thank you for replying : )

I will check the crank shaft sensor. The check engine light has not come on. It has also started to bog down under heavy acceleration, but it doesn't do it every time.

Let me know what you find. Also, check for vacuum leaks and make sure the EGR is working properly.

Hey guys I hope you can help me. About two months ago we had a really bad nor'easter and it rained for 5 days. during the storm I chose to move my blazer to avoid possible flooding and it didn't want to start. It would turn over and even "chug" a little but it took about eight tries to get it running. After starting it would do fine until it sat for longer than about 6 hours or so and then I would have the same problem. Replaced the cap and rotor soon after and didn't have a problem until yesterday after the truck had sat in the rain for a day. This time it didn't want to start until about 20 or so tries, and only after I sprayed wd40 on the cap and wires (a recommendation from my Dad who works on older cars but not fuel injected ones) so that it would help to remove the moisture. He thinks maybe my coil or wires are bad and I am unsure as to what to do since I don't have the money to go to the shop right now and am away from home going to school. Any ideas would help and be very appreciated!.
Thanks guys :-)

Welcome to the forum, your dad may be right. In the past, with engine running, I've used a spray bottle with water in it, sprayed the plug wires, if any reaction from the engine, I replace the plug wires.

Sometimes, with the spider fuel system, they are noted for a hard cold start. Use a gage and check fuel pressure. Some of the national brand autostores might loan you a fuel pressure gage. You can call and ask.

I will try the spray bottle on it tomorrow after work. I should have also mentioned that I have a brand new fuel pump in the truck that isn't even a year old yet so I am hoping that this is not the case.

hello, this vehicle runs fine after it starts,but it has to turn over for a long time to start. i replaced the distributor cap and rotor, and the plugs are clean and appear to be in good condition. i hear the fuel pump whining and can hear the injectors clicking. the engine runs smooth and accelerates with no problems.

I need you to do a fuel pressure test when it is cold. First turn the key on see what the pressure goes to, then crank it and see where it goes from there. Get back to me with what you find and we will go from there.

My Blazer takes about 25 cranks to get it started after 4-6 hours. After it is started it runs great. If it's off for a few hours all you have to do is bump the ignition for it to start. But after sitting for a long period of 4-6 hours it's very hard to start. Sometimes it won't start at all unless I get a jump. That may be because it drains the battery trying to start it. It has new plugs, new cap, new wires, new fuel filter. I hear the fuel pump and it's only a year and a half old. It is getting worse now. I had a ball joint replaced two months ago and the guy who did it says that it shouldn't take three to four cranks to get it started. He checked the fuel pressure and that was at about 55psi. Then he stated that it could be a leaking injector, a fuel regulator or spider gasket. Minimum would cost me $700.00. He said because he has to take off so many parts. And then the cost of new parts. He said it was probably leaking inside with gas. And this is flooding it. But I don't smell gas. And after I start it and let it idle to warm up I notice black carbon on the driveway from the tail pipe. But it doesn't smoke. And it does idle a little rough. Then I was told by a friend that he had the same problem and it was just the fuel regulator, a $59.00 item. This is crazy. I know the dealer wants $440.00 to replace it. Is there any other ideas? You guys helped me get my fuel pump working and were great. I just want to make sure I am not getting ripped off.

Thanks,

Fuel pressure regulator is mechanically controlled by internal spring pressure. Regulator is adjusted at factory and is not serviceable. If fuel pressure is too low, check for restricted delivery line. Also, check fuel pump pressure and volume. If fuel pressure is too high, check for restricted fuel tank return line or fuel filter. If no faults are found and pressure is too high or too low, replace fuel pressure regulator. © 2008

I HAVE EXPERIENCED THIS MANY TIMES. HARD TO BELIEVE A COUPLE OF PSI WILL CAUSE THIS ISSUE BUT IT'S TRUE. THE POPPET VALVES WILL NOT RELEASE WITHOUT PROPER FUEL PRESSURE OF AT LEAST 60 PSI. Probably the fuel pump, but can be a weak regulator, test as above!

2000 Blazer 4.3 Hard start hot. After sitting overnight it will start ok. After reaching operating temp, if you shut it off and attempt to start with in a few minutes or longer it is a prolonged crank. Ign coil was replaced. Tested fuel pressure with KOEO, 60 psi and then drops to about 55 psi after regulator opens. Fuel pressure when running or when problem occurs is aound 55 psi. I have found that the fuel pressure will bleed down after a short amount of time with the KOEO or key off. However when the problem occurs fuel pressure is ok. Tested with pedal to the floor "ecm clear out condition" when cranking, made no difference.

My info says the pressure shouldn't drop more than 5 psi in 10 minutes. If drop is excessive, you can block off supply and return, one at a time, see if pressure holds. I forgot to look, if you have a return line?

I will try restricting the return line and monitor pressure. Do you have any insight or info regarding why it woud start ok after sitting over night. Even when it is a hard start issue, fuel pressure is w/ in spec. Also if I shut it off and crank it again w/ in a few seconds it stats ok, but if it sits for more than 5-10 minutes or longer it becomesa hards start. Do you think the Ign module could cause this? The Ign coil has been replaced the cap/rotor has been checked. (performed a tune up last year). I'm just not 100% sure on testing the Ign Module.

Does the pressure drop faster than the spec listed. A hot restart issue could be caused by a flood issue?

With the key on engine off the pressure will quickly go to about 60 psi then drop quickly about 5 psi when the regulator opens (I'm assuming). After that the pressure will continue to drop to 0 psi with in a minute or two. It's odd that it if you shut it off for only a second or two and crank, it will start ok, but if you let it sit for 5 - 10 minutes or longer it becomes an issue. Also it starts ok if it sits overnight cold.

Thanks
-Mark

I am trying to research what is wrong. If it sits overnight or at least for a few hours it will start and run fine but drive it five minutes up the road turn it off to go in the store or something and have to turn it over multiple times to get it to start back up again. We have replaced so many things in the past few months and the ignition coil yesterday and still cannot find the problem. Thanks for any help you can offer.

Good afternoon.

Please list what you have replaced.

Did you check the fuel pressure when it will not start? It has classic signs of fuel pump failure.

Roy

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

The fuel pump was replaced a few months ago and the problem did not start until well after.

It still needs to be checked. it could have been replaced yesterday but still needs to be checked when it does not run.

Roy

this vehicle seems like it is not getting fuel in the morning, to the point that one time it has required a jumpstart......once running...it will easilt turn on and off all day long...but if it sits over night, it has the same problem in the morning........we have eliminated the battery as an issue...and using a starting fluid deems the same hard starting results.....i have checked the battery and connections and alternator and the load test thing and all shows to be fine....i really am clueless.....this vehicle got a new fuel pump only a year ago when the vehicle just died pulling into a store....other than another fuel filter, i am quite clueless....please help.bobby

you need to check and see what your fuel pressure is when it doesnt start. see if there is fuel pressure and spark at the plug wires. when was the last time you had a tune up

My car lost all power the other day so I replaced the battery and all was fine for a couple of weeks and then one day the engine would not start and sounded like it did not have fuel. The next day I checked and it started immediately so I took it to a mechanic and he checked the pressure and was ok (45 - 50 psi). He said it may be the fuel pump and suggested I carry a small container with fuel and if it happened again I should pour a small amount of fuel in the intake and if it worked it would indicate the fuel pump. I've been driving for a whole week without incident and today it happened again after driving about 15 miles. I tried putting some fuel in the intake and for a very short moment it started the engine but quickly dropped off as soon as I released the accelerator. What other things should I look for?

Nothing,it sounds like it was the fuel pump.It will only run for a moment if you put a small amount of fuel in the intake.There is aschrader valve on the driver side of the distributor on thefuel line.Just remove htecap and push itin to see if any pressure is behind it, if not replace the fuel pump and fuel pump relay.I strongly advise using an A/C Delco pump, the rest are cheaper for a reason