Acura rsx 05

If you proofread your post and complete it, I'll see if I can help. What part is bent?

There I posted picture

Dude, you need to tell us more what's really wrong here? Don't quite understand the your problem

Look at the tire its bent inward. How would I bend back

Looks like you need to turn the steering wheel to the left. The suspension parts hold up to hundreds of pounds of force from hitting potholes and bumps in the road. You aren't going to magically pull anything straight with a chain and ox, let alone that sad little string. If you slid sideways into something, most commonly the strut, lower control arm, or wheel got bent. Those parts are always replaced, never straightened. Once the parts are identified and replaced, the car will need to be aligned. Any tire and alignment shop can perform the inspection.

There 2 pics up what do you guys think. I have a cell. Im talking about bending.this ***** back tonight. Is that possible?

Dam good to know the truth I understand. How much money you think

What part is "in", top, bottom, or rear? If the wheel is turned to the right when the steering wheel is straight, you likely have a bent inner tie rod end. Replacing that is rather involved and requires special tools. Very often the only way to get them from the dealer is to buy a complete rack and pinion assembly. You CAN usually get just the tie rod end from auto parts stores.

Now I see it's out on top. Can you get underneath and post a photo of the lower control arm?

The top is out and bottom in. Car was pulling to right it started swirving at 110 so had to lower speed I finally lost that guy

All tires want to pull in the direction they're leaning. That alignment angle is called "camber" and is the first one of three angles checked on any alignment. Camber has to be in specs for proper tire wear, and it must be nearly identical on both wheels with the left one being perhaps a quarter degree higher to make up for road crown. A typical spec. is between 0.00 and 0.50 degrees. A half degree difference side-to-side is plenty to cause a pull. Looks like you have about eight degrees on that wheel. You're going to have to hold onto the steering wheel with both hands to keep the car going straight.

My internet is ****ed off I'm using a phone I would really appreciate if.you contacted me at 832 315 7318. I can't upload or reply its not working I have pics of behind the wheel with it turned left and right

REALLY LOOKS LIKE YOUR NAME SORTA SUMS IT UP!

YOU HAVE BENT SOMETHING IN THE SUSPENSION

REMOVING THE TIRE---THEN DISASSEMBLING SOME OF THE SUSPENSION---PRESSING/ BEATING ON THE PART, IS STILL PROBABLY NOT THE ANSWER. THE PART MAY BE "FORMED" FOR STRENGTH, ANY DEFORMATION MAY WEAKEN IT AND BE REALLY UNSAFE!!!

THIS NEED TO BE REPAIRED BY AN EXPERIENCED TECH---I THINK I WOULD TRY A REPUTABLE ALIGNMENT SHOP FOR THE COMPLETE REPAIR

YOU THINK YOU MESSED UP---LOOK WHAT HAPPENED TO ME LONG TIME AGO G.I.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-grand-cherokee-1997-jeep-grand-cherokee--2

DEPENDING ON WHERE YOU ARE---I'D GUESS YOU DID BETWEEN $300-$500 IN H.ELL DAMAGE

I WOULD NOT DRIVE THAT PUPPY---EXCEPT MAYBE REALLY SLOW TO THE SHOP---ONLY AFTER A COMPETENT INSPECTION, REVEALING IF IT WAS SAFE TO DO THAT. OTHERWISE HAVE IT TOWED!!!

THE MEDIC

I drove it for 2 hours straight and at high speeds stopping suddenly and sliding around corners so its alright to drive just ****ed off I'm going to wait and get it fixed

I USED TO BE INVINCIBLE ALSO

I LOVE MY JEEPS---BOF OF 'EM!

I CARE FOR THEM LIKE THEY WERE MY CHILDREN

YOU BE CAREFUL!

THE MEDIC

CJ is right about "formed" parts. You'll see little ripples and dimples in the control arm, frame rails, and other body parts to form crumple zones. Whatever bent has almost surely bent at a designed-in spot so it would absorb as much impact as possible and prevent further damage to other areas. The only possible way to straighten a control arm, (and I'm definitely not suggesting this), is to remove it and place it in a hydraulic press. I've done some stupid things in my time, on and off the racetrack, but I would never compromise other peoples' safety by straightening a suspension part, especially when you have a much better alternative. That is to find a pick-your-own-parts salvage yard and harvest a good used part. You're going to have to remove one anyway, might as well remove two. If you live anywhere between Ohio and southern Georgia, there is a real nice chain of yards called "Pull-A-Part". They are all very clean and well-organized, employees and customers are very friendly, and the parts are very inexpensive. Pay a buck admission, throw your tool box in one of their wheel barrows, and you can spend all day there. The cars are already safely supported off the ground. You can do an inventory search over the internet too. According my last list, a strut with the spring will cost $20.26; three bucks less if you don't want a warranty.

If the lower part of the strut is bent, you'll need a spring compressor to replace it. That requires more than just common sense to do the job safely. I've seen 8-foot florescent light fixtures taken out by flying springs that got away from a very experienced professional. As much as that wheel is tipped out, you very likely will not be able to see that much of a bend in the strut. It will be too little to see.

Be aware too that lawyers and insurance investigators love to find evidence of do-it-yourselfer repairs and quick fixes. That's a polite word for cobble job. Even when the other guy caused the crash by running the red light, a good lawyer will convince the jury you are partly at fault because your car was not in the condition the manufacturer originally designed so you had less than optimal chance to avoid the crash. Professionals are constantly thinking about those things whenever they touch your car. The lawyers will be looking at tire wear to prove handling was not as good as it could have been. Non-standard wheels and tires are a red flag. Incorrect ride height is a really big one. That affects steering response, handling, and braking. We have a lot of lowered cars in my city that local garages won't even work on for fear of being party to some future lawsuit. Anyone at any tire and alignment shop can show you the books and charts they use to measure ride height, and they can explain the importance of making it right. I'm sharing these things because it sounds like you're looking for an easy, quick fix. There's too much at stake. I am the expert at nursing a car along to get me home, including forcing a roasted front wheel bearing to get me from Georgia to Wisconsin, but as a former alignment specialist, I saw too many things that were unsafe and the owners could not be convinced that their lives were at risk. Taking the car to a specialist for an inspection often won't cost you anything, and even if they do charge you to look at it, that's better than sitting in a courtroom. It's also important to understand that not all damage is evident right away. If the lower control arm is two pieces of sheet metal riveted together, that's going to be the weak link and is likely what is bent, but if camber is still off after it's replaced, the strut is the next suspect. Since we can't always tell if the strut is bent, we often have to just install the new one, then see if more work is needed.

If the lower control arm is cast, it typically won't bend. It will crack, and we know that didn't happen. Besides the strut, the cross member could be bent where the control arm attaches, but that would have to be pretty severe to lean the wheel that much.

Ya I slid.and smashed at like 60. There were sparks and everything

There you go I posted a picture

W H A T. L O O K S. W R O N G. W I T H. IT?

Bump

The yellow arrow shows a weld seam that proves the lower control arm is not cast. It is made up of two stamped pieces of metal welded together. Being hollow, it can be bent. Compare the area by the red arrow to the same part on the other side of the car to see if they look the same. Even though that's the weakest part of the arm, it's going to need a really hard hit bend that. If that part did bend, you can be sure other parts are bent too.

The green arrow is pointing to the area of the strut that gets bent. That bend can be too small to see and still cause the wheel to tip a lot. Look at the metal under the the bolts and nuts, (blue arrows), to see if there is any sign they have moved. You'll see shiny black paint with no road dirt, or silver metal where the pain was scrapped off if they moved. The lower hole is either oblong or can be ground oblong to allow movement. That is the method of adjusting camber on your car. Taking that perfectly round hole and grinding it oblong less than 1/16" will provide about two degrees of adjustment. That's way more than necessary to make any corrections during a routine alignment. I doubt that lower hole could have ever been ground enough to allow as much positive camber as you have so even if the bolts moved, that's not going to be the whole story.

After a severe hit like this, most mechanics will want to replace the lower ball joint to insure a proper repair. The white arrow is pointing to the dust boot covering the stud that can be bent. The stud must be removed from the spindle to be inspected, but you'll only know for sure it's bent if it has a "Z"-shaped bend. It can also easily be bent in such a way that is very hard to see. The impact will have pounded a lot of sideways stress on the nylon insert in the socket. That will cause some looseness that will grow faster and faster with each bump you hit in the road. Any sideways movement between that ball and socket will prevent an alignment from holding so no conscientious mechanic will even try to align a car with a sloppy ball joint.

That ball joint stud can't bend enough to cause as much positive camber as you have so we have to keep looking. The orange arrow is pointing to the upper part of the knuckle that has been known to bend but it is considerably stronger than the lower part of the strut that's bolted to it. If it bends bad enough, you might be able to see hairline cracks in the surface rust, or that rust is flaking off.

Up to now, everything I've mentioned assumes the top of the wheel is moved out, but remember, it was the bottom of the wheel that was forced IN during the impact. To bend the strut, the wheel had to act as a lever pivoting on the ball joint stud to bend something out on top. That much force could have pushed the control arm mounts in. To find that, measure the distance between the lip of the wheel to the strut body, (purple double arrow), and compare that to the other side. If that distance is greater on the right side, the strut is bent or shifted, or the knuckle is bent. If you find that measurement is the same on both sides, that area is okay and the bottom of the wheel has to have been pushed in. In that case, compare the lower control arm mounts on both sides of the car. Two bolts go through those mounts and rubber bushings that the control arm pivots on. The mounts are just to the right of the yellow arrow. There's a front one and a rear one on each side. Together with the lower ball joint, that arm is a big triangle.

The pink arrow is pointing to the outer anti-sway bar link. The bottom ball has popped out of the socket so the entire link must be replaced. This part doesn't have any affect on the alignment, it has nothing to do with the wheel being tipped, and doesn't have to be replaced before the alignment is done. It DOES show that the front end took a pretty good wallop to break that joint.

In the second photo, notice that the centerline of the ball joint and the centerline of the strut are not in line. Compare that to the other side of the car. That could be an optical illusion from the camera angle, it could be designed in to cause a camber change when cornering, or it could be a clue to finding bent parts.

These are the kinds of things they'll look for at the alignment shop. Comparing the two sides of the car is easier done when they're standing right there in front of it.

If I take the wheel of when I get home and take a picture of the arm and axle will you be able to tell me what happened if I take pictures from good angles?

Very doubtful. You need to have someone physically look at both sides so they can move back and forth to compare parts and take measurements. It might be necessary to just start replacing parts until the camber improves. If a new strut corrects the problem, you will often still not be able to see where the old one is bent when it's sitting right next to another new one. Doing this with pictures is like asking a doctor to diagnose your pain over the phone when he doesn't even know if you have a hang nail, stomach ache, or you cut your foot off with a chain saw.

I got you thanks for the help man. Can I drive it?

Drive it slowly to a repair shop.