engine vibrating

Do you have a check engine light?

What did you service and did you disconnect the battery at anytime?

while servicin engine was out of the car ,,
now the engine vibrating , some times brake is not working properly
and without accelaration rpm around 1800 ,car is moving faster
speedameter and rpm meter is not proportional
now the main problem is engine vibrating '
is it due to air and fuel mixing prblem?
fuel supply is ok ,plz suggest

Check the idle air control valve and look for a vacuum leak-

I recently took my car to a Quality Auto Center Because of the heavy vibration that I felt coming from the engine. I especially felt the vibration when the brake pedal was being pressed at a stop light. He replaced 2 engine mounts in the front that were not that worn and he said that would ultimately fix the problem. Two days later the vibration is back again. Could this be something wrong with the engine or should I take it to a dealer for a full diagnostic test?

Thank you

Hi there,

These engine have balance shaft set ups which go bad and cause the engine to vibrate the shaft set up in in the engine oil pan. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

You nailed it the was the balance shaft housing worn out I got a new one for $341.00 all fixed I love this site. Thank you

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

When I'm stopped at a red light, there is a very low rumbling, so low, that it's hard to tell if I hear it's a noise, a vibration or both. The vibration I feel is in the brake pedal.

My mechanic added some 44K but that didn't solve it.

Thanks.

Hi cpye,

We need to understand the problem before we can assist.

Is the vibration or noise present only with the brake pedal depressed?

With gear in Park, does it happen?

With park brakes on, does it happen?

Could it be some relays flicking?

Hi,

I tried it out in my driveway where I could concentarte just on the noise. Here's what I found.

1. It doesn't start until I drive around the block to warm it up a little.
2. It's definately more of a vibration than a noise and I feel it both through the wheel and the brake pedal.
3. I feel it in Drive, whether I use the brake pedal, the parking brake, or both.
4. I don't feel it Neutral or Park, whether I use the brake pedal, the parking brake, or both.
5. I don't now what the relay is but there are no lights flickering while it happens.
6. I also checked it with the fan and A/C on and off, and both are the same.

Thanks

Hi cpye,

After warming up means the engine rpm is lower as cold engines will have the cold start valves working making the rpm higher.

What about in Reverse? Is it worse?

Is any jerk felt when shifting into Drive or Reverse?

I believe it is the engine mounts that requires attention.

Hi,

There isn't any jerk when shifting into either Drive or Reverse. Also, the vibration is the same in either Drive or Reverse.

A post on this website, about an older Camry, suggested it could be either the EGR or the Idle Air Control. Is that possible?

If it is, should I have my mechanic look into the motor mounts first or the EGR and IAC?

Thanks

Hello,while in Neutral or Park my car idles at approximately 650-700 RPM and I feel no vibration. When I put it in drive, but with my foot still on the brake and the car is NOT in motion the idle speed drops to 550-600 RPM and the car starts vibrating.
Is there any sort of adjustment that I can perform myself without taking it to the shop

Hi cpye,

If the idling speed is below 700 rpm when gears are engaged, then you need to check the IAC and throttle body first.

Should not be the EGR, rpm too low for it to be in operation.

Hi there,

Thank you for the donation,

Please check this first, start the car and pull on the hand brake, have the A/C off and put it into drive, with the foot brake off...what is the idle speed and quality like now?

mark (mhpautos)

Thank You.

Sounds more like a vacuum leak on the hose to the brake booster or the booster is leaking. If its happening only when brakes are being applied.

Hi cpye,

You are welcomed.

Hope my suggestions can help you get the problem solved.

Good luck.

Hi there,

As the last post has mentioned, this will be a way of proving the booster, do this test and a mod will advise on where to go next.

Mark (mhpautos)

To check the vacuum booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced.

I tried the hand brake test and I don't feel any difference. The car shakes the same way while idling in drive with the foot brake applied or not. Also, shaking gets worse when a/c is on

Hi, I have a question. My friend's car has had this problem for quiite a while. When you accelerate from a standstill and get up to around 20mph the front of the car starts to vibrate and continues to get worst as you accelerate. If you release the accelerator or place the transmission in neutral the vibration stops and it rolls on smooth as a kitten. The vehicle has had a 4 point wheel alignment, new tires installed, balanced and not out of round. The rims are straight. I have replaced the Torque Strap up top and also the Transaxle Mount but the problem still lingers. I am beginning to suspect that the inboard plunge joint or the combination of that and a bad intermediate shaft bearing. What are your thoughts?

When it starts shaking/vibrating-Do you have a check engine light and when the last time you had a tune-up?

Does it do it when the engine is cold or hot?

Hi jt2838. Welcome to the forum. Your suspicions are correct. Worn spots in the inner cv joint housing prevents the rollers from moving freely. When they bind, the shaft can't change length or angle as it rotates so it pushes on the spindle which tugs on the steering linkage.

I can describe a way to inspect the housings, but most people just replace the half shaft. Start with the longest one, usually the passenger side, because it goes through smaller changes so more wear takes place in one tiny spot.

caradiodoc

Hi there also have the A/C idle up valve checked for operation.

Mark (mhpautos)

Drive Train Axles Bearings problem
2000 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 202000 miles

caradiodoc,
To your answer below. Would it be adviceable to have the Wheel Bearing also checked?

Could be the idle up solenoid not getting vacuum from the VSV when the compressor engages to compensate for the additional load from AC. Then again it might be entirely a different story. Could be a loose motor mount/s ETC

Nope. Bearings typically cause a sound like an airplane engine when they are worn. Besides high mileage, they can be instantly damaged by placing the vehicle's weight on the wheels while the axle nut is loose or not torqued to specs. That will make them noisy too so be sure those nuts are tight before lowering the car off of a jack.

If the car was slid into a curb, the hub can be bent. That's not real common as the wheel will give first, but the symptom will be a shimmy in the steering wheel that does not go away when you let off the gas. Since your shimmy goes away under no load, you can assume the wheel bearings are ok.

caradiodoc

It vibrates only when thoroughly warmed up. Check engine light does not come on. Don't know when the last tune up was done as I bought it few months ago. Where is the idle up valve and how do I check it myself?

2000 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive 138K miles

I've noticed a slight vibration through the accelerator pedal lately. Just bought new tires. Had a fuel induction system cleaning 5K miles ago. Have had oil changed every 5K consistently. I'm the original owner.

Hi there, you don't always get a light on with a set fault code, so it would be a good idea to get a scan to make sure.

mark (mhpautos)

when does the vibe happen? All speeds and while accelerating?
warm? cold? damp?

Disregard the idle up air valve and clean out the mass airflow sensor and the idle air control valve and test the throttle position sensor.

all speeds, but vibation doesn't get better or worse. just a slight constant vibration. warm or cold. hasn't neen damp yet.

I'm trying to decipher if this is a performance issue or out of balance type of situation.

If this is happening at idle then we need to look at performance.

IF this is only when moving, then is is not likley a performance issue, such as an axle.

Was the problem present before the work listed was done? or after?

It's present at idle and stays the same while the engine is running. At last oil change 3k miles ago, the service team checked axle and I'm assuming muffler, etc. This just started about 500 miles ago or 5 days. The check engine light hasn't come on.

IF this is happening at idle then we know it isn't a balance issue, such as axle, wheel etc because you aren't moving.

Be the description this sounds like a misfire. IF this is true the performance should not be as good as it was. IS the performance poorer? IF so, were the codes checked in the computer?

IF not,
Is the vibration accompanied with a noise? Such as a rattle. A tinny sounding rattle in particular?

I don't hear a rattle. I'm due for new spark plugs in 3K miles. The performance seems OK. What is a misfire?

Take a look at this page:
https://www.2carpros.com/first_things/engine_vibration_at_idle.htm

A misfire is when a cylinder does not fire as it is supposed to.

camry 2003 2az-fe, dash board vibration and making noise, slightly engine vibration on 2000 rpm, mounting checked and its ok, engine overhaulding has been done, excel & drive shaft checked, need to know throttle body is functioning correclty with choke, oxygene sensors etc