Center Console (Radio/AC-Fan controls) are dead, as well as automatic windows and speedometer

Recheck the fuses, you must have missed out something, especially ECU-B (10 A) in underhood fuse box.

Ok, a couple of things.

1) I've removed and viewed each fuse twice but have spotted no bad fuses.

2) I tested continuity on each fuse while still installed via exposed metal on fuse tops (see pic) with my meter set to audible. This however apparently wasn't accurate as continuity shows between every leg of each fuse?

3) Given that, I removed the known good door dinger fuse (DOME 10amp). I then inserted every 10 amp fuse and above into that socket, including under dash. Each fuse proved good as the door dinger sounded off upon insertion with all.

I can check fuses further but that doesn't seem to be the issue.

1) Do you know which fuse(s)specifically controls all those insturments Radio/AC-Fan Controls/Truck Stats and Windows/Speedometer? It seems very unlikely several would have blown at one time but I guess could happen? There are two fuses designated (Radio 1 & Radio 2) but still the radio doesn't work even those were tested good? What purpose do those fuses serve?

2) What other fuses do you suggest I check?

3) If not the fuses, what other suggestions?

Thanks,
Ralph

I will try to upload some pictures
2

I have listed the fuse that is for those components listed. Try swapping the ECU-B fuse with the dome and see if there are any changes.

I indeed swapped that fuse out with several others, when testing per your last request. I've swapped out various other fuses with it as well. I've also checked every 10amp, 15amp, 20amp, 30amp fuse in the door dinger(DOME) slot. Every fuse has shown to be good. If any had been bad they would not have caused the door to ding when inserting. I've physically looked at every fuse twice and none show to be blown. I've never had a problem quickly spotting such having worked at an auto auction for 14 years. Not as a mechanic but I'm very familiar with such.

I understand the requests and can keep checking fuses. However, at some point I'm going to need a different suggestion because the fuses are proving not to be the issue.

Ralph

Since you have so many probles which could be related, we shall start with diagnosis for the power windows which should be the easiest of the lot.

For a start, you would need a test light or DVOM.
Remove the master switch from its seat and check the Blue/Orange (Red) wire (terminal #7) of the switch for battery voltage (hot at all times).

If voltage available, turn ignition switch on and test terminal # 11 ( Black/Red (or Black)) wire for battery voltage.

Are you talking about checking the windows/door lock module from the driver door itself? I'm not good about reading schematics so any other photos or description would help as well.

Thanks,
Ralph

Remove the part shown to get at the wires under it.

Ok, I removed the door panel and have provided some pics of the wiring disconnect. I turned the key on and checked the power to the largest Red wire which did show 12v. So that wire has power according to my DVOM. Are there any other wires I should check as there are several other red and red/multi colored one's?

The door locks are functional, btw.


Thanks,
Ralph

P.S. It will probably be several hours before I can troubleshoot further. I appreciate the help....

Just FYI.

The largest Red wire is shown nearer the bottom in the first photo. I think it is on the bottom row, second from left, in the picture showing the front of the harness disconnect.

Ralph

With ignition switch turned on, there must be another wire with battery voltage. Terminal in your pic should be the Black wire ( between Green abd Blue)

As per your request and with pics:

1) I checked the #7 terminal and it does have power all the time. This is the large "Red" wire I was referring to in my last post. It isn't blue/orange as you referenced?

2) I then turned the ignition switch on and checked the #11 terninal. This is a small solid Black wire. No power showed but it does show to be grounded(continuity with chasis).

NOTE: This is a solid black wire and not black/red as you referenced? There is a Red/black wire in the #13 terminal however which I also tested. It shows 1 amp with the ignition switch turned on.

Ralph

Yes, terminal #11 is a black wire between a blue and green wire as you are referencing. It shows no power however. It only reads ground. I re-oriented the pics in my last post to show this better.

At the door the wire should be solid Black. The conneector at door pillar would be Red/Black. You do not have battery voltage to this wire which has its power source from the ECU-IG fuse in underdash fuse box. Ensure this fuse is good.

Just so we are on the same page as I don't know what you mean by "door pillar".

1) I'm testing the white "disconnect" wiring harness at the drivers door. This "disconnect" is hidden behind the door panel and attaches to the underside of the window switch(es) module, as you control the windows. It supplies power to the window switches, etc.

2) The only power reading I get on the "disconnect" is the #7 terminal which is a large Red wire @ 12volts. I haven't tested some of the smaller wires/slots as my probe is almost to big to get into those. I did test the #11 terminal though, see "3".

3) I do not get any power readings on the #11 terminal, which is a smaller solid Black wire and positioned between a Blue and Green wire.

NOTE: there is a larger Black wire(#18 I think) but nothing there either. I provided some good closeups of these wires for you.

4)The fuse is good under the dash, designated ECU-IG. There however is no power reading off of it? Several of the fuses show 12volt power on each leg (while still seated) whereas several show nothing?

Door pillar means the wireharness from the door that goes into the cabin. At kick panel to be more precise there would be a connector for this harness and that is where the color would change. Testing at switch connector is finished for now.

Have you checked the fuse I mentioned? You need to test both sides of fuse for battery voltage with igntion switch turned on.

Yes, I tested both sides of the fuse(s)for battery voltage with ignition turned on.

The ECU-IG shows no power at all. There are several other fuses under the dash that show no power either(either leg).

I've also tested all the fuses under the hood. Each one showed 12 volts(both legs) with exception of one row in the middle(Heater #2, Airsus, Seat Heater, Defog, Mir Heater). I could never read power to those.

Ralph

ECU-IG power source is from ignition switch. At ignition switch test the White/Blue wire for battery voltage with ignition off.

If voltage is available, turn ignition switch on and test Blue/Yellow wire for battery voltage.

I removed the bottom of the dash to get at the ignition switch; however, I do not see a white/blue wire nor a blue/yellow wire?

There is a large white wiring harness "disconnect" at the back of the ignition switch. There is also a small black "disconnect" which attaches on the bottom of the ignition switch. I've provided photos of each.

There is another large "disconnect" at the back/top but I'm not sure if it serves the switch and as there are only two blue wires running to it?

1) Which wires do you want me to test in photos?
2) Meanwhile, I have both driver side windows stuck in the down position. Is there any way I can short it to get those to raise up?

Ralph

The first pic is the one but color seems to be different and there should only be 7 wires used according to my schematics.

With ignition OFF, let me know how many wires have battery voltage, there should be 2.

To close the windows, get a fused 10 A wire, attach to the Black wire at window master switch and close the windows.

There are 8 wires with only the White wire showing any battery voltage, with ingnition turned "off". I removed it from the ignition harness in order to test this.

I provided some closeup pics as well as one showing ignition/wiring disconnect/wiring "female" harness.

Ralph

To close my windows are you saying I should apply a 12v hot wire to the #11 black wire on the door wiring harness as pictured?

When I did so, the windshield wipers started running?

Which specific wire do I apply power to in order to raise my windows? See pics.

You have a power supply missing. Plug everything back in and turn the wiper off.
Check the AM-2 fuse underhood. Ensure you have battery voltage at both sides of the fuse.

The black wire that you apply voltage to to get the wiper moving is the one you that has missing battery voltage. When battery voltage was applied, you should have been able to close the windows.

Last question as the truck may be going to the shop today. Do you think the alternator may have something to do with the issues at hand?

The 4Runner is idling at a very low 400-500 RPM nor is the alternator recharging the battery. It died today on me. I may be towing it directly to the shop but wondered if somehow the vehicle is wired so as to dissable all non-essential components with a bad alternator?

Ralph

Have you tested the AM-2 fuse? Excessively low engine rpm would cause non charging. A missing power supply to the alternator would cause that too.

I believe it is the fuses that is causing the problem at hand and the alternator could be a by-product of it. Low idling speed could be due to IAC not working correctly due to low voltage.

I appreciated your help. The truck will be going to the shop today though.

1) The AM-2 fuse and every such fuse like it were inspected physically numerous times. I then checked each of those fuses no less than twice with my DVOM for continuity. I've checked standard fuses no less than four times the same manner. All fuses are good both under the hood and dash.

2) The low RPM is only with idling. I drove the vehicle for 25min on the Interstate which was plenty of RPM to charge the battery. After coming off the Interstate and stopping for a red light, the idle dropped down and truch shut off; new battery is dead.

Ralph

Visual inspection does not work. Did you test the fuse for battery voltage?

Since you are not going to continue guess I won't be needed again

Hav a nice day.

KHLow2008,

Thanks for your help but I'm not sure how many times I've stated this.

1) I inspected every standard fuse in the following manner. a) I first inpected them visually by holding them to a light. It is very easy to spot a blown fuse this way and why they make them clear. b) Nonetheless, I removed each fuse and placed them into the door dinger circuit slot. Each fuse caused the dinger to sound off upon insertion, therefore no blown fuses. c) I also removed each fuse and checked "continuity" between the legs with my DVOM. All showed continuity, therefore no blown fuses. C) In addition to all the above, I checked battery votage on "each" leg of each fuse. Each leg of each standard fuse showed voltage; with the exception of a handfull. Those few exceptions were not due to a blown fuse though. I could never get battery power to read on a few circuits as noted. d) I also swapped out like fuses randomly on pertinent circuits. e) Lastly, numerous "pertinent" fuses and respective circuits were checked no less than half a dozen times each, in simply satisfying requests by you and a few others who were also helping troubleshoot.

2) The large 30amp, 40amp, and 50amp fuses were each checked for continuity with a DVOM. I checked every one of these a minimunm of 2 times each. I checked several "pertinent" ones 3 and 4 times each in again satisfying requests by others.

There are no dead fuses. I will post what the issue was after the dealership finishes the repair.

Thanks again,
Ralph

Fuses could be good but the circuit might be dead. That is what I needed to verify in order to get to the source.