No windows, locks, radio, gauges, chimes, dome lights and starts then shuts off

Good morning,

I attached a picture of the connector for the ignition switch connector. It lists the wire colors and positions for the wires.

Verify them as the yellow wire feeds the fuse box for systems to run.

Sounds like you bought a basket case of electrical issues.

Roy

I confirmed the ignition switch plug wiring and everything checks out okay. The engine and battery light is on the instrument cluster as well.

Do you have a scan tool to see if there are any codes set?

Roy

I sure don't. But I did use one and it had a communication error so I checked pin 16 and have power to it. I also have an Evolution CTS 2 programmer and it never will initialize. It keeps asking for the key to be turned to the on position.

Got it.

My gut tells me this may be an ignition switch issue where on the wires is not powering up the accessories as well as the modules.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Roy

I'm still dead in the water.

Did you check the switch?

Roy

Yes.

How did you check it? What voltage did you have and where?

Roy

Roy, I did it with a test light to ground. And as I advanced the key. The correct wires according to your schematic/legend became energized. I can check actual voltage, am I looking for 12vdc on each wire as it energizes?

That is correct. Make sure you have battery voltage and it stays constant.

Beyond that, the BCM needs to be checked and that will require an advanced scan tool.

Roy

Roy, A couple weeks ago I was sitting in the driveway and hit the horn pad with hand and everything started working. It was short lived, but none the less, It worked. I didn't know if that could help you with troubleshooting.

It may indicate a bad connection somewhere that is causing this issue. You would need to move wires around and see if you can get a reaction from the movement to see if you can narrow the area where the connection is located.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Roy

Roy, the four positions of the ignition and the voltages at that location. POSITION 1 is the neutral position and 4 is as your tryng to start the vehicle.
Brown - 0v, 13.5v, 13v, 0v
Red/white - 12.6v, 12.6v, 12.3v, 10.9v
Pink - 0v, 0v, 12.2v, 10.5v
Yellow - 0v, 0v, 0v, 11.0v
White - 0v, 0v, 0v, 11.0v
Orange - 0v, 0v, 12.2v, 0v
Red - 12.2v, 12.2v, 12.2v, 10.2

On the ignition assy there is a green and brown wire that goes into a switch. Can you tell me where the brown terminates?

Diagram attached. The wire feeds the fuse block for accessories.

Roy

This is the brown or tan wire that's paired up with a green wire that goes to a little switch that makes when the key is inserted into the ignition.

I attached the other diagram for the switch. They all feed a fuse block to power components.

Roy

Roy, It's not the actual ignition switch, it's one of the two plugs that are on the actual ignition lock assembly. The other plug is for the pass code security. The one in dealing with has a green and tan in the plug, that's it. The tan wire travels half way down the steering column and just stops. I also borrowed a scanner but it said it was waiting to connect with vehicle and never did.

Okay, the security is not the issue.

The other plug is the issue. The switch internally is the issue. GM has had huge issues with the switch failing.

I would call a GM dealer and give them your VIn and see if yours is in the recall.

Roy

Did you ever figure this out? I currently have the same problem. I’m at a loss. 2003 Tahoe.

There was no response as to whether it was fixed or not.

Did you follow the diagnostics that I listed?

Roy

I am having this (or at least an extremely similar) issue with my 2005 Avalanche 1500 LT 4x4: ABS, Airbag, and Battery lights lit; Fuel, Transmission Temperature, Engine Temp, Oil Pressure, and Alternator gauges dead (Speedometer and Tachometer, are good); 4x4 indicator lights, power windows, power locks, remote keyless entry, power mirrors, chime, dome lights, stereo/nav, and A/C (fan okay, no cold). Truck so far runs fine. Oddly, this just suddenly happened when I started the truck to move it yesterday. Battery was nearly drained but had enough to start the truck. Not too surprising as it hadn't been driven for 2 weeks but the battery is only a year old. This seems to be a common enough problem with this and similar vehicles, but nobody (on the web) seems to be in agreement as to the cause. I've seen "bad ground", "data buss issue", and "ignition switch" primarily. TBH, ignition switch issue of some sort seems to make the most sense. Unfortunately, I don't have or have access to diagnosis equipment at this time so I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow. Will report here on what they come up with.
Edit: Tried to start this morning and the battery is completely drained which leads me to believe there is a short of some sort.

Good evening,

The first thing I would do is to have the battery load tested to be sure it is good. It does not matter how old it is.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

This sounds like low voltage to the components, so I would verify the alternator is working correctly.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

I attached guides for you below for checking.

Let me know the results so we can continue.

Roy