2004 Kia Amanti will not turn over since replacing plugs and wires.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

So what to do if no spark?

Move on and finish the rest of the testing.

I replaced many of the vacuum lines with a generic line from auto store. After taking a closer look at the ones I removed I can see some have a much smaller inner diameter than the replacement hose. Also one of the original lines had an orifice or some type of restrictor in it. That said I do not hear any hissing, whistling or other noise from the hoses.

Could the larger diameter on the hoses be part of the problem?

I guess you're just not reading what I am typing.

no, i was just wondering if the vacuum lines posed an issue

No spark. No power to coils.

Injectors ok. Fuel ok.

I noticed that the security light remains illuminated when I try turning from 'on' to 'start'. Could the security system be hung up and cause the crank no start?

What is the fuel pressure?

How did you test the injector signal?

Pressure - do not recall, my neighbor helped me with it as he had guage.

Injectors - used noid light

See if your coil has power supply with the key on.

I tried using circuit tester light set

Here is a diagram of the connector. Test for power and ground at the appropriate wires.

Will do. I also noticed that the ignition coil condenser wire was damaged - 50% of wire strands broken. I completed the break, stripped back insulation and put on a wire nut for repairs.

That's just a radio noise suppressor. It plays not part in the operation of the engine.

Earlier I checked for power to the harness using a 12volt light tester with key on and did not get anything. Did not test ground. Will do again .

What us easier way to test ground?

You can use a test light and connect the wire to bat positive or use an ohmmeter between that wire and battery negative.

Same as before - no power coming out of harness. Ground checked out with first methid

Have you tested all your fuses inside and outside the car with a test light and the key on? If not, do that next.

I visually examined all the fuses under dash and under hood - all ok. The large fuses that do not have visual indicator ....no idea as to state.

Will repeat checking with light

Under hood there is a large 4 pronged fuse 'start'

How do I test this type

After removing the 'start' fuse lots of clicking and clacking noises. A few followed a few minutes later by audible humming/hissing

Clarification - should I test the fuse slot looking for positive (12 v light conected to groundt turns on) or test the fuse itself?

If fuse - how?

I am referring to the big multi pronged fuses.

I checked all the small fuses -under dash the following look ok but could not get any light even after taking out and directly probing fuse slot: 10 amp B/alarm, 10amp tail LP (RH), 10am tail LP (LH), 20 amp heated mireorder

All the small ones under hood checked out. No sure how to test the medium sized and large ones

recap:

recent repairs over last couple months - new battery, replaced vehicle speed sensor on transmission

there are no codes in the OBD II. Codes get generated after trying to repeatedly start but after clearing codes and leaving engine alone for awhile, on next re-start no codes, keep trying to start a few more times then codes start -throttle position sensor, o2 sensor, mass air flow sensor

I tested the injectors using a noid light; illuminated/blinked when trying to start

Found The ignition coil condenser wire (looks like a simple ground wire but not sure) was crushed to point where 50% wire strands broken. I connected the frayed ends with a wire nut.

As part of initial tune up, I replaced several vacuum lines. However, I later discovered that several of them had a small orifice 'jet' inside and so swapped back in as many as I could.

The wire harness to the spark plugs/coils was not active when tested with 12v test light, ground checked out ok

Fuses- 3 locations: under dash, under hood drivers side relay box, under hood passenger side (only 2 fuses here- big ones )

Under dash there are 4 rows of 8 and a main fuse in large plastic holder. all checked out except b/alarm, tail lights, and heated mirror

the tail light fuses became hot when I turned on the car lights. when lights were off could not get anything even if I directly probed the fuse slot with 12v test light

I was going to try the same thing with 10 amp b/alarm fuse but not sure what to turn 'on' for that


under the hood - i checked all the fuses with test light. all the small fuses ok. the medium and large fuses not sure how to test. I removed the 4 pronged starter fuse and probed the fuse slot:

a c
b d
front of car

a - not pleasant noise, low volume crispy electrical noise
b - hot
c- nothing
d- nothing


just a point of curiosity - the fuel injector above spark plug 6 there is a thin wire that runs from top of injector all the way back to fuse box under dash; no idea what this wire is about but it has been pushed around a lot manipulating the exhaust manifold, etc.

I think it's time for you to get to to a professional. You have 3 pages of postings here and you are no closer to finding your problem.

You say you have no power to the coil which would strongly indicate a bad fuse but you say there are none.
There is a 4 wire "ignition failure sensor" on top of the rear part of the engine. Locate it. With the key on both the pink and the green wires should be hot. If they are not, go back to the fuses again, especially the fuse marked ignition coil in the engine compartment fuse box.

Beyond that you are going to need on-site professional help.

Oh forgot to mention that when trying to turn over the check engine light goes out but the security light remains illuminated.

Will check fuses and ignition failure switch.

I checked power to ignition failure switch with key in on using 12volt test light connected to engine block

Only the contact on right was hot

Black wire (left most) not hot
white (2nd from left) not hot
pink (3rd from left) not hot
green (right most) hot

There are 2 30 amp fuses marked ign sw 1 and ign sw 2. They both look ok but since no luck power to sensor I swapped with other 30 amps. Still nothing.

I checked all fuses again. Only one that can not make hot is under dash labeled b/alarm.

The fact that you have power on the green wire says the ignition switch and fuses are good. Test for ground on the black wire. If that is good, then that Ignition Failure sensor is probably bad. You could try jumping the green wire to the pink wire and see if the car starts.

12 v test light connected to positive

Black is hot.

Silly ignition fail sensor is $140 from dealer. It better be the one ;)

Thanks for the help.

Try jumping those wires and see if it starts before you buy any parts.

Yep. At $140 for sensor have to test.

And yes pink to ground startes up.

Thanks!

It's not pink to ground. It's pink to power.

I meant pink to green. I think auto fill got me .

part is on order and hopefully that will be the end of it.

when I started with jumper I did get some exhaust coming up between rear spark plug area and firewall. there is also an exhaust gas valve back there.
I used a little (very little) red RTV when putting the manifold gasket and EGR valve gaskets back on - did I goof using that stuff?

Ok part 27370 3800 ignition fail sensor arrived today. I installed it and started up but was running very rough. the code reader indicated ignition coil failure and throttle valve sensor.

While car was running I pulled back the spark plug wire (connecting spark plug 1 and the coil on top of spark plug 4) and there was no sparking. I tried same with other wires and coils and there was sparking. I rotated the coils just to see if coil was bad and once again when pulled back the wire connecting to 1 there was no sparking. I changed spark plug 4 and tried again. once again no sparking. I checked all the fuses and no bad fuses. I checked the wire harness to coil 4 and it responded the same as coil 6 - left most was hot with 12v light tester.


I checked the throttle valve sensor and it did not feel bound up - I did not hook it up to any diagnostic equipment as thought the ignition fialure probably caused the the throttle code. I hope I put it back correctly.

any idea what is is causing the 1/4 mis fire?

There is no such code that tells you an ignition coil or any other part for that matter is bad. Only that there is an issue with the circuit. The cause still needs to be determined.

You need to start over for this issue with new question. Be sure to include all the info on the car and the specific code numbers.

Still having issue with the ignition failure sensor

After replacing sensor did start but ran very rough. Coil 1- 4 Was Not firing and got very hot to touch.

I juggled the coils around to verify ok but when to start no juice to harness bundle.

I disconnected the wiring to ignition failure sensor and jumpered pink and green and harness to coils went hot. I tried to start with jumper and blew fuse number 8 under hood- 20 amp ignition coil fuse. Replaced fuse and tried again - same result of blown fuse.