engine is not cranking bad starter?

it can be a starter relay, battery in poor shape.

These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back.

check the stuff in pic first then check to see if power is coming to the starter relay at the one point leading to starter. also check your starter cut relay inside car. either one of those could cause a no start.

if you want to remove and replace ignition switch see pics. you have to take out steering column first though

cool thank you. it was the starter motor I got a new one from amazon worked great!

I'm actually not sure if this is an electrical problem, but the battery tests good, the cables/connectors are pliable, clean and secure, we have replaced the starter and alternator, and no diagnosis codes come up. Sometimes it starts, sometimes it revs (and doesn't start), sometimes it just clicks repeatedly (and doesn't start). The headlights go dim when you're trying to start it. After it won't start, the factory alarm indicator blinks repeatedly, and sometimes the alarm goes off. All of the preset radio stations are lost. It will start with a jump or by compression.

You have a battery and or cable problem, Check the condition of BOTH cables at both ends, then retest the battery with a load tester...

Checking the battery w/o a load tester or VAT machine-

Do this:

Get a voltmeter hook it up on the battery observe polarity record reading-Now disable the ignition-then look at the meter while a helper cranks engine over for 10secs no more-the voltmeter should hold 9.6volts in that 10secs if not get a new battery or charge up and try again same results replace the battery.

For the cables you need to do a voltage drop

If you di it Razz's way, remove the fuel pump relay, gas will pump while cranking otherwise..

Oops! I forgot that Merlin good heads up-TY

So what's happening with this Hondo -is it on the road yet-need more help comeback-

If this is a maintenance free battery, check voltage only when it can't start. High possibility of internal open circuit which happens intermittently. Seen many cases of it happening.

car wont turn over. battery wont build up and speedfometer shakes.Will not push start

if the battery is dead, it will never push start. the system must have 12 volts to operate.

start with a fresh battery and have the charging system checked

Roy

I try to start the car and it makes a clicking sound.

Check the state of charge on the battery. You most likely have a dead or low battery if it's a rapidly clicking.

If it only clicks once when you go to start the vehicle you may have a starter motor failure which will also need to be diagnosed.

First thing I would do is try and boost the vehicle though. Goodluck.

Well, it happens when I start the car. Starter does not engage and the car just clicks repeatedly and very fast, it sounds like the clicking is coming from in the car and under the hood. All the lights in the instrument cluster flash in time with the clicking. It happened for a little while and then stopped about 5 to 6 months ago, and now it is back. Used to be that you could try a few times and it would start right up, now it does it almost continually.

Hi ravnistic. Welcome to the forum. This is a sign of a battery with a dead cell or dirty / corroded / loose cable connections. Start by measuring the voltage between the two battery terminals. A fully charged battery will measure near 12.6 volts. If you find around 11.0 volts, charge the battery and retest it. If it comes up to normal, you may have a charging problem. To check it, measure the battery voltage again while the engine is running. It must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts.

If you do find around 12.6 volts when the engine doesn't crank, clean and tighten the battery cables, charge the battery if necessary, then see what happens.

caradiodoc

Put battery cables on wrong and blew a fuse. I don't know what fuse it is the ignition, will not start. happened before and it was fuse. need to know what one.

Good morning,

I attached the location of the main fuse that normally fails when the cables are crossed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

It is an 80 amp fuse. I attached the location for you to view.

Roy

LX model 5 speed transmission. I was driving, the instrument panel gauges all dropped to zero, then jumped back up when I shifted. Then they dropped again, stayed down. Drove home (about one to two miles), turned off the car, and then tried to start it lots of clicking and instrument lights blinking, but no start (see video). Next day, I tried to start it and it started, but I did not drive it. Today, it will not start again. No codes reading on it, as I had reset the codes several days ago for the EVAP system to get it smogged. It passed smog, and all those problems happened on my way back home. Replaced battery and alternator in the past two months.

Welcome to 2CarPros.

It sounds like a dead battery. I realize it is new, but I need you to check to make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight. Also, I want you to perform a real easy load test on the battery. Since it started after this happened and now won't, I feel something is loose. Also, the gauges dropping make me think the same.

Follow these two links and let me know the results.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Take care,
Joe

I've changed the thermostat , water pump , timing belt and a tension pulley and now my car will not crank! Can someone tell me why I am hearing a clicking noise behind the glove box an my check engine light, oil light also a key symbol light is flashing while the key isn't in the ignition? I have checked all the fuses an I have also checked the battery an the battery posts, i have checked everything that i can think of and my car will still not crank. so if anyone knows the answer to my question please let me know. Thank you to who ever sees this post and thanks to who ever responds.

Hello,

This sounds like you could have a problem with your vehicle's anti theft immobilizer system. In the diagrams down below I have included a description of your vehicle's immobilizer system as well as a factory diagnostic troubleshooting guide for the immobilizer system. You will need to be able to use a multi-meter to go through this troubleshooting guide, so here is a link, if you are unfamiliar with how to use one, for you to go to below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you are able to find.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

I have a 2002 honda civic, the car has worked wonderfully its whole life. but all of a sudden yesterday I went to start the car and it would not even turn over. Instead the odometer in my dashboard displayed 888888 at me, along with the needle on my rpm, mph, and gas gauges "bouncing" up and down repeatedly making a "clicking sound". it continued for about 10 seconds until it stopped. as well as that, half of my electrical does not work, anything power (locks windows etc.) the tail lights, cabin lights, and head lights did not work. although the horn and the hazard lights do work. this happened completely out of he blue so i have no idea what it could be. (I'm also 100% sure its not the battery)

also uploaded a vid of my dash to you tube
http://www.youtube.com/v/UYI_dkQACqk

if not battery then a battery cable, connection or one of the maxi fuses in the under hood fuse panel. get back to us

You probably need to have the codes read, and altho I am not a Honda specialist, it sounds like a body control module...

My car won't even turn over, no gauges work, my lights won't turn on. Bought and installed a brand new battery, still nothing changes. Just replaced starting relay, also. Any idea why my car won't start?

Do you have a digital voltmeter and know how to use it? If so, start right on the battery posts and measure the voltage. Move the probes to the battery cable clamps and measure again, then work your way down the cables to the next accessible points. You're looking for the first place you find the voltage missing. The tests will be more accurate if you turn on the head lights even though they don't work. In particular look where the smaller negative battery wire bolts to the body and the smaller positive wire bolts to the under-hood fuse box. Those connections often work loose.