Air conditioner blows hot

Is the AC compressor cycling?

Yes it is.

Okay, if it is cycling, the system is pressurized and low on Freon.

Here is a couple of guides that will help you get the problem fixed:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/air-conditioner-how-to-add-freon

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Then clear the codes.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/check-engine-light-clear-codes

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers

Okay, I will check that. Can you tell me how to correct those diagnostic codes?

You can try disconnecting the battery to see if that resets them. If not, it will need done by a scanner.

The diagnostic scanner when ran gave me those codes, but did not tell me how to correct the problems. does that make sense?

B1265 - Cold air bypass door actuator circuit failure.

B2798 - Driver coolant control valve circuit short to ground.

B2799 - Passenger coolant control valve open circuit.

Since you have heat all the time, the B2799 I feel is the problem. Here is a test:

1) Key in off position.
2) Disconnect coolant control valve.
3) Key in on position.
4) Measure the resistance between ground and coolant control valve plug.

5) Is the voltage greater than ten volts?

It sounds like you have a blend door actuator for the fresh air door and a coolant control valve that is out and needs to be replaced.

Here is a guide to help you see whats goes on when doing the repair:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

Below are some diagrams to show you on your car.

Let me know.

I fixed it! thanks for all of your help the diagrams really helped. you guys are the best!

Nice work, we are here to help. please use 2CarPros anytime.

Cheers

Trying to find out the location of the A/C port (low and high pressure).

Leaked oil in garage on floor. how do I fix it? A/C not working blowing hot air.

Air conditioning.
No matter the setting, from sixty to ninety degrees, the air blows very hot and I cannot adjust it. It appears the electronic heater control valves, there are two, are stuck full open. There are no trouble codes in the computer.

Is there a way to reset the heater valves or am I stuck buying a $160.00 set of new control valves.

Thanking you in advance,
Ken L.

Hello,

It sounds like you have a blend door actuator that is not working and needs to be replaced.

Here is a guide to give you an idea on what you are in for when doing the job:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

Below are some diagrams on what it will be like on your car. This shown all of the actuators but the one you need is the mode actuator.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

V8 Automatic 50,000 miles.

Air conditioner is blowing hot air. bought 50/50 coolant, and also bought Freon kit. My car does not have a manual available to purchase. so how do I replace the Freon ?

First, we need to determine if the compressor is running. If it is not, have the system tested. I know you said you bought a kit, but it may save you money if you have it tested. It would be a shame to try to fill it only to find that you have a hole in a hose somewhere. If you are very specific and tell them you only want it checked and not serviced, it should not cost you much. If the system is low, then you can add the Freon. If there is none in it at all, we need to find out why. The other option is that it is working fine, but the blend door that regulates the temperature in the cabin may not be working properly. I know it sounds like a lot to do, but it may save you money and a big headache in the long run. check this and post back. Then, if it needs it, we can fill it.

I had a similar problem with my 2002 Thunderbird. The air would work fine for a while then it would start blowing hot, and I mean hot, air out the vents. We brought it to the Ford dealer several times but they kept saying they could not find anything wrong. I finally did a u-turn when it started doing it and made the technician come out while the car was still on. He noticed the hot air and could not make it cool down. It turned out to be two sensors blown. One behind the dash and the other behind the motor against the firewall. They kept it for three days and gave me a loaner. It has not done it since. I was glad to have the extended warranty because the total was over $800.00.

Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site. :)

Cheers, Ken

So heres what happened and what I have done to attempt a fix with no luck......

I was driving and the AC was running fine blowing cold air no problems.
At one point I attempted to change AC setting from Max AC to regular AC on the manual control.
When I changed the knob setting, instantly the AC cutoff......no fan..... no anything !

So I began to check the only fuse under the dash I am aware of and works fine....has continuity on meter.
I then checked the fuse block under hood and nothing there was blown.....again meter showed continuity.
I then tested fan by jumping with battery......fan spun good.
I replaced the heater resistor as well as the AC switch at the panel......still nothing !!!!

So my question what else could it be ?????

You need to test for power and ground arriving at the blower to see which one is missing and that will determine where we go from there.

Put meter on the plug going into the fan ?

No, you need a test light that displays both power and ground. The lead will have two wire connections plus the probe.

I only have a probe with one wire and the pointed end.

I have power to the fuse, but not the clutch. Does anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram? Does anyone know what the most common causes of this problem are?

Thanks

Check that the A/C refrigerant level is correct, if low due to a leak, the low pressure switch will cut the power to the compressor.

mark (mhpautos)

I guess you won't be checking it yourself then.

There is no power to the clutch, so the compressor never starts. When the freon is low, the clutch will engage, the low pressure switch opens, and the clutch disengages. Then the switch closes and the clutch engages. This process cycles continuously.

Thank you for the reply.
Someplace the electric circuit is open.

If I can get my hands on one can you tell me exactly what to do next ?

have you check that the refrigerant charge is full?

mark

I already told you. Find out whether it's power or ground that is missing from the motor.

How can I check the refrigerant level if I can;t engage the compressor to get pressure?

Well let me put it like this......

I don't know how to use a two prong test light so I need some explanation......

Do I connect to the two leads at the fan and touch the ground or do I connect at the two prong wire and connect to fan.....

Im at a loss

I need to recharge my AC refrigerant. I believe the 97 uses r134a. However, I cannot find a recharge port with a blue cap. I found a port with a black cap that appears to be the recharge port but don't want to do anything until I am sure. ...

Does the 97 use R134A?

Is the port with the black cap (passenger side near side of radiator) the recharge port?

Thanks!

Kent

It uses the R-134a freon-see below fittings for identification -look around-You charge at the low side 13mm fitting

Jump a wire from the battery to the compressor clutch, if that will not work the comp or clutch is faulty.

mark (mhpautos)

It connects to the battery.

Thanks so much! I think I will be able to find it tomorrow when the sun comes up!

I really appreciate the advice, Kent

I understand the concept of making a closed circuit.......but I am lacking which way to go about it

Look for the 13mm fitting this is the low side where you charge it

Ok here we go. I've done everything to this ac unit but can't get it to work, it's not low on freon, pressures are fine low pressure and high press, cut off are fine. Clutch coil , compressor, are fine ac heat switch in car is fine. I checked everything, jump wrong the low pressure switch didn't work. Pulling PCM didn't work have power going into PCM good, ccrm blk/ yl has power coming from ccrm but it stops about a foot away have complete continuity through circuits . I have b+ at ccrm, PCM, low pressure switch high pressure switch, but nothing in wire going to compressor . I can jump compressor and it works fine. The damper doors seem to work although I have tested used and new switches. I'm going crazy . Nothing makes sense. All fuses are good I can hear the ccrm contacts working .is there a relay somewhere . Power panel in engine doesn't have one for ac just a horn relay it seems to be. Is it somewhere else . Again have inputs where they need to be but the blk/ yl Eire coming from ccrm has power but only for a short distance. Help me please

Check the blk/ yl Eire coming from ccrm where the power stops (disappears). The wire may be broken there. Flex the wire by hand to "feel for a break.
Or, with the battery disconnected, use an ohmmeter to check continuity in that area of the wire. Push a straight pin through the insulation of the wire at the last point where you had power. Push another one through the insulation about a foot away from that point. Connect the ohmmeter to the pins. If there is a break there will be no reading on the ohmmeter. Wiggle the wire during the test (because there could be a bare part of the wire touching the body of the vehicle.)