Drained battery after two days of siting

With everything off, remove the battery ground and see if you get a spark. The stereo should have a constant power lead for the memory, as will the alarm system. They should not draw anything more than two to three amps together.

This guide can help you

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

With the key off, see if any of the accessories work. Wipers, washers, fan blower motor.

Hi Ruplestilskin,

In case you still have not figured out the problem, I would suggest checking the charging relay switch located on the main fuse panel above the battery.

I had the same problem with my 2005 Venture and it drove me bonkers! And I am an electrical engineer! The local Chevrolet dealer could not figure it out also and they came out to my house twice and replaced the battery free of charge! haha

The third trip to the dealership they let me stand by the technician in the service bay while the hood was up. I do not remember what made me think to ask him to check all the relay switches, but after a few minutes he said, "Bingo!".

Cheers,
Forest

Forest, I am guessing you mean the fusible link.

Ruplestilskin, any word in this?

First off thank you rivermikerat and ForestGump for the responds.

Update:
Okay, I am on my third battery in the last six months, but let me clarify.

The first battery I replaced was the original (no surprises there, except it still hold a charge out of the van and works in another vehicle? go figure?).

The second was a working (but used) battery from the vehicle that I put my old original battery into. This battery worked fine in the other vehicle, but did the same thing in my van (Last one to three days then drained when sitting). Since then this battery completely drained (as of three days ago), because it sat outside in below freezing temperatures without a charge for about three days. I think it froze and this caused it to go bad.

Installed a Everstart Maxx 800CCA from Walmart. I know, I know, Walmart, but they are actually rated very well and are my by Johnson Controls who make Die Hard, which are rated the best. This is the third battery.

So, River, I did your test and according to my multi-meter all the numbers came out as they should. I did this test twice, once with the first and second batteries. I plan on doing it again with the third, but assume the result will be the same.

Okay, now I think Forest might be on to something. A relay switches is basically the same thing as the fusible link that you are referring to river (I am also an engineer and understand what Forest meant by relay switch) and this could easily be my problem to. My ex-wife also has this same problem with a 1999 Montana. Her batteries only last about a year. It is all good because they are under warranty, but I can imagine that it is frustrating.

So, I will do your test again River, with the new battery. And if that comes out okay like I expect, I will then switch out the fusible link and post my result after that.

Thank again both of you for your help!

The fusible link is a length of wire that is calibrated to melt when the current across it exceeds a specific value.
A relay is a type of switch that allows a low power source to switch a high power source.

What I am thinking Forest is getting at is that maybe your alternator is not charging properly. You can check the output voltage of the alternator at the battery with the engine running. You are looking for an absolute minimum of 13.2 volts. But you would prefer to see between 13.8 and 14.2. If you have a meter capable of testing higher currents, you are looking for at least 50 amps.

See the images I have attached.

I know the wire that you are talking about and I did not know that they refereed to it as a fusible link. There is also an item in electrical engineering that they call a fusible link and it is sort of like a relay switch that burns out and/or switches off at a given amperage.

I guess maybe "fusible link" is a more general term and can be applied to different applications. Just a thought.

Anyway, back to your other suggestion. I have already (about thre months ago) torn out my alternator replaced the brushes and actually had it professionally load tested both before and after the brush replacement. I use to work for a company the engineers and manufactures fire trucks. I called a friend that still works there and he had the guys out in the shop test it for me both times. I will however double check while it is in my vehicle to check the output. It tested about 14.0 on the machine at my old work, which was much higher than what I expected. I should of mentioned this before, but for the sake of less typing I just stated that it was new and did not bother to mention that I had it tested and everything.

So, one would assume that the alternator is good. I guess I am left with a wiring issue, which is where I did not want to end up.

Any thoughts?

Thanks again.

Circuit breaker.
In your original post you also mentioned that you thought it might be the alarm system with the blinking light. That is an LED, drawing milli-amps or µAmps. I have let my car sit with the alarm enabled for over a week with no problems.
You mentioned that you performed the current draw test with everything turned off. And that your results were within spec at two to three amps. Stupid question, but I have got to ask: Open circuit current or inductively tested?
Narrowing the problem down to a particular circuit/accessory is where it begins to be (as my son would call it) a beeyotch. You need to put your meter inline on the ground or power lead (I prefer ground for safety, but either works). Note the current draw reading. Now, remove fuses and relays, one at a time, until the current draw drops noticeably. Once we know what circuit is at issue, I can know which one(s) to send you the schematics for.

Gents,
Let me clarify about the relay.
Get your Chevrolet Venture owner's manual. In mine, it is on page 60-6 "Under-hood fuse and relay center".
After going through three batteries in one week, I discovered that relay number 11 (IGN MAIN) was faulty. The number stamped on top of the grey square relay is '3604'.
The technician at the dealer plugged in a new relay and I have not had a problem since (going on eight months now).

Happy New Year to all you guys.
-ForestGump

Hey Forest, that is the main Ignition relay. It has nothing to do with the charging system. If that relay is fried, what is happening is that current is being allowed through a small portion if the ignition circuit with the key off.

Happy New Year.

River, per your last statement would that not cause a battery drain when the ignition is in the off position? I have not looked at the schematic on this yet.

Yes Gents, when that relay starts getting weak, it causes a constant current draw even with the ignition in the off position. That is why this problem has stumped so many of us (including the boys down at the Chevrolet dealership) because it is the last thing you would think of as causing the problem.

The service manager down at the local Chevrolet dealer told me that he shared my experience with the manufacturers, and Chevrolet will be issuing a circular to all service centers to add this solution to the items to check when other Venture owners come in with mysterious battery drain problems.

Cheers,
Forest

That sounds like GM should be issuing a TSB soon for dealerships to replace the ignition relays on all cars they service that have that part number. It sounds like a weak clamping/return spring on the coil armature. I am not an engineer, but I am an Avionics Tech/Aviation Electrician's Mate (Navy) and I used to assemble micro relays for Matsu****a/Panasonic.

Yes, as Forest stated, it would cause a parasitic draw. Said draw would not be huge, but it would be enough to drain the battery over a period of a couple/few days.

So, Ruplestilskin, I would say check open circuit current drain with everything as is, then pull the main ignition relay mentioned by Forest. I am guessing you will see a marked drop in current draw.

I agree with both of your assessments and will be checking this out later on today. To me this sounds exactly like the culprit that is causing my problem.

The only thing that concerns me is that I all ready did an open circuit current test on it (sorry I did not answer your question on that before river), but maybe I missed it or something. I cannot believe it would be a small enough draw that I would of missed it, but who knows.

Either way I will report back here tonight or Saturday. Thanks again for all your help. Both of you! This has been a thorn in my side not only for my current Van, but also when I was married with the ex's 1999 Montana.

I look forward to hearing what you find out.

Okay guys, I know this has been a long time coming, but I found my electrical problem with my Venture.

It ended up not being something one would expect. All my problems were due to a bad starter that was causing the battery cable to short out on the housing of the starter. Strange I know. The starter housing was not cracked or anything like that, but you could clearly see where the battery cable was arching on the starter housing.

This and four bad fusible links that were coming off the start were the source of my battery drain problems. I replaced the starter and re-soldered the new fusible links in and voila all my problems went away.

So as we all know, one never knows when it comes to electrical problems

Thanks for all of your help!!

Sounds like it was more of a problem with the battery cable not having sufficient insulation where it came too close to the starter. Unless the arcing was occurring where the cable connects, then it was probably increased internal resistance in the connector terminals.

Wow. Glad to hear it is finally fixed, though.

I think in the end Rivermikerat I think it was a combination of things going on. I still have the same battery cable, but after putting the new starter in (which was physically bigger) I made sure it was not making contact with the starter housing. I really believe that the battery drain was do to the battery constantly arching though the starter housing. I also had to replace all four fusible links (3 2.0 mm and 1 5.o mm) coming off the starter. I am sure they fried due to the arching. All my strange electrical problems are gone now and battery holds a charge.

Thanks to both of you for all your help.

Glad to hear that all is well now. Thanks for using 2CarPros.

I have a 2004 Chevy Venture with a new battery and a new alternator that I recently put in. I had this problem before I replaced the alternator and battery.

In the beginning it would take a week of sitting (I have been unemployed so I only drive when absolutely necessary) before the battery would go dead. From day one after purchasing this vehicle the electrical system always seemed low on power. Ie.; power windows going up slowly, hard starting due to what seemed like low battery juice, dim lighting, etc....

I did read something online about a battery drain issue associated with the power sliding doors (PSD), but the information was very vague and didn't find any more info about this anywhere else.

I have cleaned and physically inspected all connections, tested for a good ground, etc... The only other thing that I suspect is the factory alarm system (light on dash constantly flashing after vehicle is off and locked).

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!

Ps. I would donate, but I am unemployed currently. Will in the future when I start working again.

With everything off, remove the battery ground and see if you get a spark. The stereo should have a constant power lead for the memory, as will the alarm system. They shouldn't draw anything more than 2-3 Amps together.

With the key off, see if any of the accessories work. Wipers. Washers. Fan blower motor.

We own a 2004 Chevy Venture LT. We bought it used from private owner 2 weeks ago. Owner disclosed that battery would go dead after sitting for several days. It has started daily but the battery seemed very low. Took to Advance and had battery checked. It checked OK and alt was producing 14.3 V. When leaving it wouldn't start. PUt on charger for 15 min, reinstalled and engine fired right up. Today, it was low again and then wouldn't start after church. Had to jump. The battery is a fairly new interstate. Any ideas of what could be draining the battery? No warning lights are on. No interior lights are on after doors close. Could starter be drawing amps when ignition off?

I have this exact problem with my 04 Venture. I have not tested this theory, but I think it has to do with the built in alarm system. I am going to disable the alarm and see if this problem continues.

The reason I believe this is an alarm system problem is because I use to have a 99' Montana and when I bought it used the previous owner was a sales man from a Ford/Dodge dealer. Now this guy knew cars, because he went out and bought the service manuals for this Montana and he had this same problem with it. He told me that he disconnected the alarm system (which was aftermarket) and the problem stopped.

Now one would think that Chevy would have figured out any problems with the alarm draining the battery, but this is Chevy we are talking about. They have been screwing consumers for years by making the cheapest crappiest cars ever made. The only reason I bought the Montana and Venture are because they were $1000s under blue book.

I will try to post back here with my results of my alarm disable test.

Ps. If you are ever going to buy American buy Ford! They are probably the best value vehicles out there today.

Starter motor clicked when bridged, but no power at all, volt tested battery and checked resistence on connections and cables...all fine. I don't think it is the starter, but wondering about sloenoid on starter. But is this reason to ground out and disallow all electrical current elsewhere? Dead with full battery even when extra volts added through a engine start mode from a battery charger. Thanks, Swain

Did anyone answer?

Having an identical problem with my 2002 Venture. There is a parasitic current draw of 4.5 amps when the ignition is off. I've eliminated the alternator. Hopefully its a faulty solenoid on the starter motor.

I have been and the shop have been thought this van. It is dead in 2 to 3 day if not started. In two year replaced battery two times. went thought it good, but not good enough. under hood relay 16 and 11 get hot after driving it. The 3 shop I took it too say that I have a draw of 5.2 amps to 7.8 amps draw. they say that it was within rang. But if take out fuse 29, 8 and 7 I have no draw on the battery, as I add the fuse back I get an draw fuse 29 is a little draw, then 7 draw, then 8 is the biggest draw. ?????? my head is hurting

You have a short circuit that you need to find-what 's causing the draw

Will it be at a ground or will it be at positive. Would it be one item that cause this?

fuse 29 is for the radio and will always have a draw but it's nothing to worry about. #8 goes to the schematic I'm showing and check the power units and lighter just unplug them one at a time and see if drain drops. Also check for coins in units as this will cause the same thing and or a fire...also pull power seat circuit breaker as it may be that.#7 goes to two different places one is ignition switch which may be bad and other is rap relay which powers up a few modules as well as power window circuit breaker, so try removing that and see if it stops the draw all you need is a test light to check if it goes out you fond the draw. it has to be hooked between battery and cable. see pics

The one that give me the most draw under hood is 60amp number 8,
IGN MAIN 2 Ignition.

If hit a pot hole real hard, my 2 of my panel light goes out( it over the temp gauge). Should I start looking at the wires in my dash??

The battery is brand new and the alternator is used. But the battery dies. After the car is shut off. What is it electrical or alternator?

check items in second pic with 3 arrows in it that is what that fuse powers. it may be your power outlets or cigar lighter.

First you have to determine if the charging voltage is high enough to charge the battery. Measure the battery's voltage with the engine running. It must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts.

OK I will check the ones with the arrow. Thanks

I have a 97 chevy venture van, the battery will only stay charged for a few minutes. It wont take a jump and only stays charged when I take it to the auto parts store and then it stays charged for like 30-45 min.. and then it dies again. I have a new 104 amp alternator and my battery is 650 amp,and every time I take it to the auto parts store they say that either the voltage is low or it is the amps.. please help this is trying my husband crazy

first, replace the battery. then check for 14 to 14.5 volts at the battery when the engine is running

Roy

ther is something draining the battery once its connected in the vehicle.
Try unplugging four or five relays in the fuse box. wait the usual time and then see if the battery is dead. if not, one of the circuits controlled by the unplugged relays is the problem.
Next, connect a voltmeter to the battery and then install one relay at a time while watching the voltmeter. once the problem circuit is reconnected the battery voltage will drop slightly. now you've found the circuit which is draining your battery.
If the first four or five relays that you disconnect don't reveal the problem, try 4 or 5 more until it is found.

If you have an ampmeter with an amps pick-up probe this would work better that the voltmeter in detecting the problem (its more sensitive)