Picking up speed - Engine revs?

This sounds like the throttle body needs to be cleaned or you have a vacuum leak these guides should help fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Please run down these guides and report back.

no hoarsepower when i accelerate and rpms stay at 1500

I have a 2000 pontiac grand prix. 3.8L V6 supercharged. When the car is idiling in park the engine will rev up on its own. I have no idea what would cause that. I was told the vacuum line could be a problem. There was a hole in the line but i spliced it and fixed the hole. It still continues to rev up though. Any ideas why? Thanks

Hi zfezzey11, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Try cleaning out the idle air control valve and test the following sensors -TPS/MAP/ and MAF sensor with an approved cleaner.

Could be plugged convertor, fuel pump, mass air flow sensor, check this link to assist you, so we can better assist you: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

My Grand Prix GT (3800 series) has started "surging" when I am on the highway. The car has 145,000 KM (not miles) on it. This "surging" ONLY happens on the highway. I will be driving along on the highway and the car will surge (almost like someone is stepping on the gas or like the car can't find the gear it wants to be in) and my RPM's will jump up and down (usually between 2000 & 2500 rpm). This has been happening for a couple of months now and yesterday my check engine light came on. Any thoughts as to what could be the problem?

Check and test the following below:

Oygen Sensor
Dirty fuel injectors (cleaning the injectors often fixes this).
Bad MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor
Bad TPS (throttle position) sensor
Bad or dirty MAF (mass airflow) sensor
Low fuel pressure (leaky fuel pressure regulator or weak fuel pump)
Vacuum leaks (intake manifold, vacuum hoses, throttle body, EGR valve)
Bad gasoline (fuel contaminated with water or too much alcohol)

Sometimes, what feels like a hesitation is actually ignition misfire rather than lean misfire. The causes of ignition misfire may include:

Dirty or worn spark plugs
Bad plug wires
Weak ignition coil
Wet plug wires
Cap and Rotor

Note:If it doesn't apply,disregard.

2000 Grand Prix GT 3.8L 3800 series with 166, 000 km's; car works great.

The RPM will quickly osscillate by 200rpm up and down. This happens anywhere between 1500 and 2500 RPM from 30 to 100 km/h. Most often when goin uphill at lower speeds.


Thanks for anyhelp anyone can give

[quote:1ce29f7efe="nickrenouf"]2000 Grand Prix GT 3.8L 3800 series with 166, 000 km's; car works great.

The RPM will quickly osscillate by 200rpm up and down. This happens anywhere between 1500 and 2500 RPM from 30 to 100 km/h. Most often when goin uphill at lower speeds.


Thanks for anyhelp anyone can give[/quote:1ce29f7efe]

2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GT - 3.8L V6 - 125000km, when I am driving between 60 and 90km/hr and going up a hill the RPM's drop between 500-1000 when trying to keep my speed constant, if I step on the gas a little, it will accelerate it goes away. It has been getting worse over the last few months and happening on flat roads now. I have had it tuned recently and my garage cant figure it out. Any ideas on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated.

Sorry, when I said the RPMs drop, it drops and jumps back up quickly over and over until the road flattens out or I step on the gas. Thanks

Hi,
I hope you managed to find an answer for your problem, because I'm facing exactly the same problem. I have Audi TT Turbo, Model 2004. As you said, this problem keeps getting worse. I'm really worried by now and I hope it will not lead to a bigger problem.

Appreciate your help.

Tareq

Any chance somebody helps me? I really need an answer. I'm about to change the turbo charger along with the complete exhaust system. But I'm not really sure if that will resolve the issue.

Thanks in advance..
Tareq

I got a 1999 pontiac grand prix se v6 3.1L wth 181k miles. Recently after a overheating problem the carb begn to have problems. At times when I start the car the RPM with just jump to about 1500 and stay there without me pressing the gas and will stay high whether in par, reverse, or drive. I turn the car off and on until it settles aruind 700-800 rpm and then it drives decently but at times will start increasing as Im driving.
Another problem, which is spontaineous but persistant, is if I give the car gas and hit over 2500 rpm it will begin to sputter and drive rough. I tune up te car regularly every 3-5k miles. I was thinking it may be te knock sensor but thought I'd ask the experts. Thanks, John.

John:
This could be caused by many things. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Has the check engine light come on? Have you checked fuel pump pressure?

The check engine light is on but due to the fuel level indicator not working properly awhile back. At times when the engine is hesitating while driving the check engine light will blink on and off for a few seconds or until the hesiation goes away. I have not checked for vacumm leaks or fuel pump pressure but I can look into it. Thanks for the fast response, John.

John:
If the check engine light is coming on, have the computer scanned. You may need one that can scan the system while you drive so you can see exactly what is happening when the light flashes.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

I have a 1998 Pontiac GTP (Supercharged 3.8L). My car has been idling at 1500 RPM, usually, once it warms up a little, this will go away. Recently, however, it has gone up to 2000. If I put the car into drive at this high RPM's, it slams into gear very hard and sometimes the wheels skid and the car jumps. When driving down the road, I have to drive with the brakes on because the car will idle at 48 mph. I also have other problems like the car will cut out and then start back up when accelerating. I thought it was the fuel filter, but we fixed that and it is not. I have replace spark plugs, filters, checked vacuum connections. It is not throwing out a Check Engine light, so I can't connect it to a computer to find the answer. Thought you may have some idea. This is really getting serious.

A high idle would be a vacuum leak, this could be the intake manifold, injectors, brake booster as well as a vacuum hose.

My car makes revving noises whenever I change speeds and whenever I turn to the left especially. The car doesn't want to go up hills at all, and appears to fall back into neutral when I come to a stop (but not all the time), but if I wait a few seconds it will usually go back on it's own. It has also stalled out on me a couple of times at stop lights. Once I get the car to a constant speed and stay there it is fine, but it revs whenever I try to go faster. Any ideas?

Change the trans. fluid and filter, and look for metal particles in the bottom of the pan.

If problem persists, then you have an internal problem with trans, like clutches or bands and will have to take it to a trans shop.

The car is idling at 4000 rpm by itself. It will fall to under 1000, but shot right back up. It has been doing it for a couple of daysand just curious to what can be causing it. Thank you in advance for your help. God Bless!

[quote:b0799af6e1="apostle357"]Computer problem
1997 Pontiac Grand Prix 6 cyl All Wheel Drive Automatic 132719 miles

The car is idling at 4000 rpm by itself. It will fall to under 1000, but shot right back up. It has been doing it for a couple of daysand just curious to what can be causing it. Thank you in advance for your help. God Bless![/quote:b0799af6e1]


Hello,

A fuel injected engine's idle speed is controlled by the IAC motor. This motor controls a plunger or valve that opens and closes a vacuum port in turn controlling the engine idle speed. But there are conditions where the IAC motor cannot control the engine idle speed. Here is a listed the most popular reasons below:

1 - Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light. Check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test ok continue to the next step.

2 - There are two types of high idle conditions, computer controlled and non-computer controlled malfunctions. To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, air bag) after the fuses have been tested a trouble code scan tool is needed to identify system troubles. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes to check if they relate to the specific problem, like an IAC motor failure code. If a trouble code is present but does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the engine is running properly. The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running properly is because sometime false codes can be triggered by a malfunctioning engine. Once the engine is running properly the code might cycle, and turn itself off. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step. How do I scan my service engine soon light?

3 - Your engine is designed to operate with a prescribed amount of vacuum. If vacuum is allowed to leak it can cause a high idle condition. Check for broken or dilapidated vacuum hoses on and around the engine. Your car's engine is designed to run on a system that can hold vacuum. Vacuum hose are typically connected to the engine intake manifold or throttle body and will supply engine vacuum to various accessories like power brakes and cruise control. Some manufactures like Ford are designed with a larger vacuum transfer hose that connects the intake manifold to the IAC (idle air control) motor. If broken or dilapidated these vacuum lines can cause the engine to lose vacuum which will allow the engine to idle high. Inspect all engine and accessory vacuum lines to look for missing, torn or dilapidated lines and replace as needed. Also start the engine and while it is running listen for any whistling noise coming from the engine that is not usually present. Follow the noise and inspect vacuum lines in that area. When the engine is running it will pull a broken piece of the hose inward to create a larger vacuum leak. Check the integrity of all vacuum hoses at each end of the hose, typically this is where a vacuum hose fails. If all vacuum hoses check "ok" proceed to the next step.

4 - The throttle body of your engine controls the secondary air intake for the engine. The throttle body becomes dirty with air contaminants that the air filter cannot keep out. This condition is called "choking" and can cause stalling as well as an elevated engine idle condition. The throttle bore in this illustration has been cleaned for visual purposes. Usually the throttle bore and plate are coated with a dark light tar that needs to be cleaned. One of the best product to perform this action is any aerosol choke cleaner and a shop towel.

For more causes please visit the following link....

https://www.2carpros.com/first_things/why_does_my_engine_idle_high.htm


.

I have a 1997 Grand Prix GT when I bought the car the tranny dropped and I had it rebuilt. The car sat for 3 years after that. Now when I drive on the highway once I get to 40 mph and the rpms are at 2000 it feels like it sticks there until I either let off the gas then back on or floor the gas to get it out of 2000 rpms. What would be the problem? And how would I go about fixing it?

Dont really know but you said the car sat for a while just wondering if you did any preflight maintenance like change trany fluid and filter or screen. Or any of the other usually forgotten about maintenace under the hood.

I havent done the tranny filter or screen i did get the tranny fluid flushed and new fluid in. I did new spark plugs wires belts alternator I cleaned out the throttle body. I had a engine code pop up the other day saying that the 6 cylinder had misfired but then it turned off the monday and no code came back. If you have any ideas Id really appreciate it. Ill start with the screen and filter and see what happens. Could you think of anything else? It wouldnt be a solenoid in the tranny right?

I do not know I am not a transmission person. Now the missfire could be important if it continues to happen. That could just be a bad plug. But I am at a loss for the sticking transmission other than something wrong inside the transmission. sorry i could not be more help.

its ok man thank u very much nething is better then nothin right now i appreciate it

Transmission problem
1997 Pontiac Grand Prix V6 Wheel Drive Type unknown Automatic 246713 miles
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A couple of days ago I was driving and my car just started slowing down. It started going 20-25 miles per hour and after pushing on the gas my engine started revving up and then after lightly putting my foot on the gas pedal after about 15-20 minutes of driving it would reach the speed it is supposed to be at my reverse still works fine and it will shift gears when it reaches 10 miles and then after that it will take a minute to change gears I put tranmission fluid in my car and let it run for about 5-7 minutes and took it down the street and it still continued to do the same thing ... do you know what the problem could be? do you think if i went and got it flushed or had the transmission filter changed it would work right ?

the trans is shot is that the real miles if so it had a long life

well those were some of the miles based on the old engine I had in my car and then i got a new engine put in my question is would i be able to get my transmission rebuilt or I have to get a new one or would me getting a used on be cheaper ?

I just had a transmission from a junk yard put into my '97 GP. It took two transmissions to get one that was trouble free. It cost around $800 total. You got your monies worth with the original.

Hey I have a 97 Pontiac Grand Prix and when I'm driving it the rpms goes to zero and when I cut the car off and try to restart it, it won't start I have to wait about 5 to 10 minutes for it to start back up. But I have replaced the coils ,spark plugs and wires and also the ignition module and the crank shaft sensor. I dont wont to get rid of the car because I would like to fix it up but if I can't get the engine right why waste the money

[quote:ea769ce36d="kenhill8101"]Engine Mechanical problem
1997 Pontiac Grand Prix 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 122000 miles
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Hey I have a 97 Pontiac Grand Prix and when I'm driving it the rpms goes to zero and when I cut the car off and try to restart it, it won't start I have to wait about 5 to 10 minutes for it to start back up. But I have replaced the coils ,spark plugs and wires and also the ignition module and the crank shaft sensor. I dont wont to get rid of the car because I would like to fix it up but if I can't get the engine right why waste the money[/quote:ea769ce36d] did you check fuel pump and fuel pressure? how does the car run on the road does it chug or over heat?

No I haven't had the fuel pump checked or the fuel pressure. Would i have to take the fuel pump off to check it or is there another way to find out . I was driving home today and it wanted to cut off but I kept pumping the gas and it finally kicked in but once i had gotten near home it died so I called a fiend of mine and they told me to spray starter fluid into where the filter is leading towards the engine about three sprays and it started right up. I am really appreciating your help I just want to get my car back running back to top condition . Please write back

[quote:fa40f473c7="kenhill8101"]No I haven't had the fuel pump checked or the fuel pressure. Would i have to take the fuel pump off to check it or is there another way to find out . I was driving home today and it wanted to cut off but I kept pumping the gas and it finally kicked in but once i had gotten near home it died so I called a fiend of mine and they told me to spray starter fluid into where the filter is leading towards the engine about three sprays and it started right up. I am really appreciating your help I just want to get my car back running back to top condition . Please write back[/quote:fa40f473c7] there is a shrader valve on top of the engine on the left or right side. it looks like a bicycle tire valve with black cap on it. un screw the cap and attach a fuel pump gauge to it. turn your igniton switch on but dont start it and check the pressure. it should read 41psi to 47psi. then start your car your gauge should go down 3 to 10psi more if not your fuel pressure regulator is bad

it was leaking coolant. i replaced the intake manifold gasket to fix the leak but now it idle's at 4000 rpm's.

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak caused when you replaced the intake manifold.

thank you

Your welcome that would be my best guess especially if it idle normal before the repair.