power loss under load at operating temperatures

Could be the EGR valve, also refer to this link:https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Hi, my 2003 CRV engine (or emissions) light came on a week ago and comes on then off - though more recently has been staying on. I feel a loss in power and feel it uses more fuel and was hoping you may have some ideas before I take this to a mechanic. I am from the UK and have very little mechanical knowledge. There is also a rattling sound from under the car however this may be a coincidense?

anyplace to get codes read cheap/free? are you IN the UK or USA?

Sorry don't understand codes read cheap/free?

I am in the UK.

A mechanic can check this for free I was asking incase it was a known or obvious fault.

Thanks for helping.

warning lights register fault codes in computer to give clues to problem. there is an access port to interface and read them.

Okay thanks so I really need to take it to a garage then I guess.

Thank you.

if you get sticker shocked or an uncertain diagnosis you can come back and ask more about it. and also if you get it satisfactorily fixed you can post results and cure.

I have a 2003 Honda CRV EX automatic transmission and am having a problem with a slow acceleration only when the AC is on. Also I've noticed a moderate pining noise from the engine after the CRV reaches 10mph and faster. Could this be a problem with the fuel injectors? Anyone assistance is appreciated.
Thank you

Have the computer scanned for trouble codes first.

I had the computer scanned and there were no errors. However I took out the spark plugs and I noticed one had oil on it where the element is. I know that the PCV valve was bad so I replaced it. Is there more I should do?
I've had a 2002 and a 2003 crv and my luck is the same. They both have the same engine problem....same cylinder.

Thank you for all the help.

Which cylinder has the problem?
Do you mean the oil is on the ceramic part of the spark plug?
Was anything done prior to thia occurring?
Is the engine oil level correct?

Its cylinder # 3. Yes it the ceramic and the metal part at the bottom of the plug. Nothing was done to the vehicle. I bought this CRV about 6 months ago from a local Honda dealership. I change the oil on my car so I always fill it to the recommend markings. If I drive the car for 3000 miles the oil drops right under the lowest marker.

Thank you for your help.

Oil is getting into the spark plug tube and it is via a bad valve cover gasket. Replacing the gaskets should solve the peoblem.

When there is excessive oil around the spark plug, it can result in misfigin and poor performance. Have th oil leak repaired and retest.

The oil consumption is more likely to be due to worn valve seals or other areas of leakage. The VTEC valve gasket is one of the more common cause of oil leakages.

The brake pads have been changed on all 4 wheels and new calipers were put on the back on both sides. The brake fluid was completely drained and changed out. However, once the car has been driven for a few miles the brakes will begin to grab to the point of bogging the motor down and not letting the car move. There is also a burning smell on the outside of the car from the back end. Once the car is turned off and allowed to sit for about 15 mins, there is a single click noise under the hood and then the brakes release and the car can once again be driven another few miles.

Thank you for a quick response. I will buy the kit from Honda and replace the valve cover seal and also the plugs seals. I will keep you posted.

Thank you again for all your help.
Best regards
Tony.

have the brake hoses checked for collapsing. have the abs checked as well

Roy

Check the brake booster push rod to pedal clearances. If the brake switch was worked on, that would be most likely to be the cause, otherwise the ABS modulator.

I have a 2003 Honda CRV, I have been noticing the RPM's racing when I accelerate, I know this is a 4 cyl. and this is somewhat normal , but lately, it seems to be "racing" when I accelerate , from a light, pulling out onto the highway. higher then normal, almost 5000 rpms .

have a trans guy scan for codes and check it

Thank you, in the back of my mind, I was concerned it may be trans related. was hoping not, I'll have someone ck it.
Thank you
Megan

I have a used, high mileage Honda CRV that has been fairly well maintained and exhibited no real problems so far.

Lately when driving, the acceleration seems to be very poor, taking a while to reach speed even while RPMs are increasing. There seems to be a delay between opening the throttle with the gas pedal, and the engine revving and speeding up.

Additionally, it feels like the vehicle kind of chugs or thunks into gear when it is manually shifted (for example from reverse into drive) or automatically shifted (when the transmission automatically shifts).

This could be two distinct problems, or part of the same thing, I am not sure. 7 months ago, the computer threw a transmission code. The dealer I purchased it from wanted me to buy a new transmission. I took it to a transmission shop for a second opinion, and the guy working there told me it looked like the transmission was operating fine. I don't know for sure what the code was, and it has not been thrown since.

Please let me know if you need any additional information, or if I can clarify for you. Thanks!

Well this does sound like a transmission problem. The sluggish feeling might be the transmission/torque converter slipping. The clunk into gear might also be the transmission or a worn out engine/transmission mount.

My recommendation would be to bring it back to a good transmission shop and have them look at it.

In the meantime, you might want to check your transmission level. You check the fluid on Honda's with the engine off and parked on level ground.

Darnit, that is a bummer, but I will take it back in to get looked at. Thank you for the help!

I found in my paperwork the code that was pulled from the computer, I guess it was P0730, that the gear ratio was incorrect or irregular.

Just off-hand, if it hasn't come back up again, what do you think the severity level of the issue might be? I don't know if I should look at getting it in within the next week or two, or if it might be able to wait till the end of the summer to scrounge up some more cash.

I've just been advised by a mechanic that one cyclinder has zero power and another is at 40% .
What caused this problem?
What should it cost to repair in Fairfield CT?

Your timing chain may of jumped a few teeth. If the chain is still set properly, then you need a new engine. To have zero compression is a serious problem, there might be a hole in the piston.