power locks

Is there any way for you to enlarge the picture. I can't read the symbols and wording. From what I can see, it looks like there is an inline fuse on one of the wires. Is that correct? If that is the case, you just need to go straight to the positive terminal on the battery. However, if there is no inline fuse, you need to determine how many amps the circuit needs to operate and fuse it yourself.

Let me know if you can enlarge it. If you can't, let me know and I'll do my best to help. Let me know what the 4 wires coming from the box indicate at the end. Is one a power wire and the others all grounds?

Joe

Thank you for your response. Here is the enlarged picture, let me know if it is clear enough, I will try to enlarge it if it is not. The four wires are: the two above the box are white and brown that are intended to be connected to the alarm (I do not have one, only the standard Honda one that is locking the engine. The two below the box are black and red (ground and 12V DC) The fuse is inline and it is 10A. That means that I need to connect the red one to a a 12V source as you mentioned. What is the best way to do it? Is there a recommended place where that is connected to? I do not want to bother you but if you can tell me if there is a way to connect the 5 wire actuator with a lock/unlock switch on the driver door? Thank you very much for your generous help.

I'm glad to help. As far as the picture, I can see it a little better now. Lets start with the power supply. Since it has a 10 amp inline fuse, you can run it directly to the battery (through the firewall) You will see rubber plugs where other wires come through. If you would rather, select a fuse (greater than 10 amps) in the fuse box and you can run the power right from there. As far as the ground, you need to make sure that it is a ground to a steel component under the dash or vehicle's body. To check if you have a good ground, just take a test light, connect it to where you want to ground, and then take the other side to a power supply. If it lights, then you have found a ground.

Regarding your question with the actuator, if the system is designed to only operate from a FOB, I don't think you can switch it. The control box is what will actually actuate the solenoids. It isn't set up like a traditional switch (power on / power off).

One last thought, the two wires for the alarm, make sure they are taped off so nothing shorts.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe

Thank you again for your help. When you say select a fuse in the fuse box does that mean to connect to an existing fuse for something else or 'create' a new fuse with greater than 10A power with the inline fuse in place?
Thanks again and I hope this will be the last question.
Vlad

You can ask as many questions as you like. It's not a problem. If it was me, I would take power from an existing fuse. The locks are only used for very short periods of time; therefore, it shouldn't cause any problems. The inline fuse will protect the lock system if more than 10 amps are drawn for any reason. Basically, you have a fuse after a fuse which is a good thing.

Please let me know if you have other questions. Honestly, it's not a problem. Also, if you have car problems in the future, let us know. That's why we are here.

Have a great New Year! And, I hope to hear from you again in the future.

Joe

Thank you very much, I will 'hold' you for the future:-)

Wish you Happy and Successful New Year.

Vlad