Why wont it go over 3000 rpm?

This could be many things. Have you checked fuel pump pressure, catalytic converters for plugging, throttle position sensor, check for vacuum leaks... If the check engine light is on, and it should, have the computer scanned to identify trouble codes. Most parts stores will do it for free. It will help you identify where the problem is coming from.

02 ford ranger 3.0 L 183 CID V6 OHV
odemeter 69789
Engine bogs when driving down the road. Camshaft position sensor has been replace. Fuel filte replaced. Ignition coil replaced. spark plugs replaced. Plug wires replaced. Could it be bad fuel?

Check fuel pump pressure

[quote:acbd2d6e6b="merlin2021"]Check fuel pump pressure[/quote:acbd2d6e6b]

How do you do that? I want to make sure I know what i'm talking about when I carry it back to the mechanic.

[quote:8d8c415152="Michael Rice"][quote:8d8c415152="merlin2021"]Check fuel pump pressure[/quote:8d8c415152]

How do you do that? I want to make sure I know what i'm talking about when I carry it back to the mechanic.[/quote:8d8c415152]

The engine has had a valve job about 20k miles ago done by a professional garage. Have had a problem with engine performance when cold - goes away when engine gets warm. No codes are being thrown up. This has been going on for some time - about the last three years. The garage has replaced the fuel pump several months ago but still same problem exists. I'm suspecting a finicky temp sensor. The engine temp gage seems to be reading ok. Need some help here.

Hi Mikva,

Thank you for the donation.

The temperature gauge depends on the temperature sending unit for signals whereas the Engine Coolant Temperature feeds data to the PCM.

You are correct about the ECT being possible cause of the problem.

Other possible causes are :
1 Mass Air Flow Sensor(MAF).
2. Imtake Air Temperature (IAT).

As no codes are throen, you need to get the reading os htese components to assess their operations.

Got a 98 ranger. 2.5. 4 cylinder. Runs sloppy until you rev to about 2000 rpm. And then smoothie out. But go any over that it bogs down again. Cant run it over 20 mph. Replaced fuel filter and spark plugs and wired and a coil Pack. Anything else I can do?

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it.

Rented the gauge and the fuel pressure comes out good.

did you scan for codes while at auto parts? they do it for free. also check for a vacuum leak.also try cleaning throttle plate on both sides and iac hole with choke cleaner.

My ranger has been acting like its running on two cylinders. The problem had been off and on but increasing. I changed the plugs and wires, checked the fuel pump,made sure the coil packs are firing.
The day I put the new plugs and wires on it ran like a champ. The next morning it was back to the same.
Please help.

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it. if it's a misfire code have a pro fix it as these are very hard to diagnose what the problem is.

hi guys tryed tps removed exhuast checked fuses wear the fuel enersa switch 1996 ranger cheched all vucum lines can a ismotor do this probelm can a jump timing belt cause this also my problem is still rough idle completely die whe gas pedle is floored sorry not a good speller ps thx for your help

Yes the timing belt jumping a tooth or two will cause this, a weak fuel pump, bad PCM stuck EGR, bad idle air control. Check timing by putting number one piston at TDC and check the ckank harmonic balance for the mark lining up..
https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm
Go here and checkout our video.

Engin had low power under load, run very ruff under load, with millage could this be a timming problem.

It could be. However, have you checked things like the catalytic converter to see if it is plugged? Also, have you checked fuel pump pressure, and is the check engine light on? Finally, when was the last tune up?

When I'm driving down the road, my ranger is momentarily losing power. The check engine comes on when it does this. But when the check engine light stays on, the truck has no problems. Its only when it blinks. It does this alot going over bumps. I have changed the fuel injectors, fuel pump, crank shaft shafter, EMF sensor, mass air flow sensor, and checked all the connections too all of these parts.

blinking is a major issue. get the codes scanned and post back to me.

im leaning towards a bad crank position sensor or a faulty vss since the crank and vss work together to decide if its a missfire or your going down a BUMPY road

Well it turns out that there was a electrical wire for my fog lights that had come loose and was hitting up against the frame and grounded out the connection. It was hard wired to the battery so that was what caused the problem. Thank you for your help though.

glad to hear you found and fixed the problem. intermitten faults like that are hard to find.

Yes they are, it only took me 6 hours of checking every single wire connection, I had to break down all the big connections and trace every single one. But the end justified the means.

Ford Ranger 1993, 6 cyl. 3.0FI, It starts right up, runs fine for awhile, then the gas pedal starts to bog while it loses power. I let go of the gas a little, and it drives okay til it starts to bog again. This progresses until it dies down to 5 mph. or stalls. If I shut it off in neutral & turn it back on, I'll get full gas pedal til it starts to bog again. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, TP sensor, but it hasn't helped. It feels as though it is starving for air somewhere...could this be? If I step on the gas all the way when it starts to bog at mid throttle, it wants to cut out & there is a popping noise--- sounds likke it's coming from the pipe above the catylatic converter. Please help???

Make sure you have enough fuel pressure check pressure using a gauges
check exhaust system for restriction
check for codes

my truck runs fine when 1st starting cold in am, as soon as it warms up NOT overheating it loses power and tries to turn off?, it won't start till it cools off again..??

Hello,
It sounds like as soon as your car goes from open loop (cold engine runs on pre-set fuel/air ratio) to closed loop (engine at normal temp runs on fuel/air ratio calculated based on sensors inputs) you start having problem. It makes me think that you could have a sensor problem. I’d start with the coolant sensor, the O2 sensor, MAP, MAF and IAT sensors.
Also, after your car quits running do you have a spark on all cylinders?

The truck has had a tune up but loses power going up hills after it is warmed up. In addition, there are popping noises while laboring up the hill.

check your ignition timing and try a higher octane fuel.

if it does it when warm there may be a fault in your ignition system. bad plug wires, plugs, igniiton control module, coil.

i got an 88 ranger 2.3 straight shift. starts and idles fine and runs strong for bout a mile then starts bogging down as i give it gas. i have change the following: plugs, wires, cap, button, electronics on side of distributer, distributer, injectors, both fuel filter, iac valve, throttle position sensor, pvc alve, and both fuel pumps. please help i am out of ideas. and money

Dirty fuel injectors (cleaning the injectors often fixes this).
Bad MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor
Bad TPS (throttle position) sensor
Bad or dirty MAF (mass airflow) sensor
Low fuel pressure (leaky fuel pressure regulator or weak fuel pump)
Vacuum leaks (intake manifold, vacuum hoses, throttle body, EGR valve)
Bad gasoline (fuel contaminated with water or too much alcohol)

Sometimes, what feels like a hesitation is actually ignition misfire rather than lean misfire. The causes of ignition misfire may include:

Dirty or worn spark plugs
Bad plug wires
Weak ignition coil
Wet plug wires

Engine Performance problem
1988 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

I have a 1988 Ford Ranger that runs fine until it gets hot. After hot it seems to run ok at highway speed, but at city speeds after reaching high gear it starts getting slower & slower. When you depress the throttle it jumps up in RPM's. I have replaced the TPM, coil, dist cap, wires, igntion module, MAP sensor, fuel filter, air plenum gasket with no luck. Any ideas?

Do a compression test and leak down test on all cylinders. You may have a failing head gasket. Is it an inline 6?

If it has a coolant temperature sensor, replace it..