Power steering hose replacement

Continue the PB blaster overnight and use a line wrench to get the best grip here is a video that show help.

https://youtu.be/BGBUv5r9fk0

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers

Try some twisting with the wrench forcing it while tapping on it.

done gnarled it all up?

still able to get a bite?

i love heat!

heat is my friend!

i looked at pics of your pump at auto zone and on oreilly auto parts on line

i think that if you wrap the majority of the pump w/ a sopping wet rag

have your wrench at the ready

and apply heat from a plumbers "turbo torch" (handheld unit, w/ mapp gas)---not a regular old propane unit (looks similar though)or use a pinpoint tip on a acetylene rig

something that will immediately and very quickly heat up the portion around stuck fitting (the boss) only!i'm talking 15 seconds of rotating the heat then pass off the torch to your pal and get on it w/ the wrench real fast!

imma plumber, this is what i use to solder and also do "light" un-sticking of parts (like yours)...coupled w/ a bottle of map gas, it's the next best thing to acetylene!---10 times better than a propane torch
keep your rag tight and wet---keep heat off of the fitting to be extracted----there's no doubt this will get it out

the "o" ring will most likely be fried, once the fitting is removed--so be sure to change it

hope this helps

the medic

Thanks to all for your suggestions. I am still working on the PB Blaster soaking & light tapping for the second day. The only twisting I can put on it is by putting a rotating tube at the bend going into the fitting. Very tough area to work in with brake lines, electrical cables and cooling lines occupying the same area - reason why I'm reluctant to use heat. Also tough to get another set of hands in there to assist. Will try to get a picture of situation, but again, thanks for the help.

Try retightening the lock nut and then turning it loose 2 or 3 turns and then try the tugging and bending. The lock nut would give you additional leverage for the end.

I have not been able to budge the fitting with soaking with PB blaster and tapping it. Still have not tried heat due to o rings in adjacent fitting at the top. Have attached 2 photos, one of the fitting in the steering box (bottom one) and the other of the new hose without the o-ring in the groove to show what I'm dealing with. I cannot even get a tool to grip on the small shoulder to help trying to twist when using the gripping the tubing to try to get it to move. Suspect the fitting is rusted all the way to the o-ring inside the housing and the PB Blaster is not getting in to it. Got me baffled.....

sometimes you must sacrifice and do what you gotta do!

how bout this

borrow a heavy duty deep well socket the correct size....from your neighbor

grind it similar to a o2 sensor socket (side partially ground out)

anyway....chopping the side out of the socket you borrowed from your neighbor may have weakened it.....add insurance!

place socket over the nut---open a hose clamp all the way up and put it over the socket (over the nut portion you are removing)---tighten it down tight (this will give some added strength so the socket does not "spread open"

once you get it broke loose, remove the hose clamp--the socket should be stout enough to screw it on out

course w/ the hose in the way, you will have to pick it up and move it to another position as you progress

sound like a plan?

the medic

The joint shown is not for the high pressure hose. That should be the feed hose.

Since you are replacing the hose, cut off the pipe somewhere 3 or 4 inches from the almost 90 degrees bend and use a hammer to tap the sawn off part downwards to make a U turn to allow you to use a screw driver as lever to twist the pipe.

CJMEDEVAC, the socket idea would be a great idea if the Ford engineers had put a hex surface on the slip fitting so you could do that would have made life so much easier. Almost to the point now of going with heat as you suggested because it's still not moving. The one that's frozen is the lower right hand one with the black tube that is held in by the retaining plate that is in turn bolted to the rack housing (terrific design). Will keep your socket idea in mind for screw fittings though....thanks

If you cut the tubing, insert a metal rod into the pipe to support the tube and you can try to wiggle it loose with the rod instead of the pipe.

The rod would reinforce the pipe if you were to use a grip plier or wrench to turn it.

Both great ideas guys, will try later today.......thanks

my 03 ranger power steering lines were like that and I cut them off flush and screwed a long sheet metal screw into them then locked vise grips on the screw and used a 24 inch pry bar against the grips and pulled the top section of the fitting out then i took drill bits and by hand just kept drilling a little bigger each time until the corrosion was gone i then took a pick and popped it out i hope this helps .

Steering problem
1996 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

i am replacing a pressue hose for my power steering . I have gotten the replacement part but it doesnt match exactly. in the end that goes to the rack on old hose the center is open and on the new one the center has a raised nipple. i checked with 2 different parts stores and they have the same as i bought . any ideas why this is that way do i need to get a special one from a dealer . thank you for any help

This does happen from time to time, aftermarket hoses can be assigned the wrong part numbers! You might try having the store look up a hose for one or two years earlier, if no luck, Dealer, or junkyard might work.

You can always just replace the pump too. Or, try taking it out and you will have better leverage. but if you're replacing the line, why not just cut the nut fitting off and be done with it? My problem is that I'm replacing the pump and saving the line, but the line twists along with the nut, and I can't get it to break free, I've tried everything, but I can't get the line to unbind from the line but, and replacing the line is skin to totalling the car. So I left the pump, put on a new belt and live with it as long as it will last, lol

Here's another trick to try when your fitting wrench/ tubing wrench wants to over-expand open and wants to start jumping the nuts hex's.

Here's how to "capture" it.

I use this technique mostly on brake fittings, after I'm "Locked On" on the best angle possible that will allow a little/ some free movement (even if it's just a little) a smack on the fitting wrench/ tubing wrench handle might provide that little bit of movement. Usually that little move is all it needs to break it loose and start it turning.

Many times in a tight spot, needle nose vise grip pliers will grab tight enough for the task.

Penetrating oil??? Everybody brags about theirs.
This has worked best for me.

It only takes a few drops, leave the room for a while, when you return the part will be laying in the floor! (LOL!!---close to that anyway!)

Pics) A few tight space configurations.

Pics are not working?????