My transfer case is grinding why?

Move shift lever into 2H position.
Raise vehicle.
Loosen shift rod lock bolt at trunnion.
Check shift rod fit in trunnion. Be sure rod does not bind in trunnion. Lubricate the shift rod and trunnion if necessary.
Verify that transfer case shift lever is in 2H detent position. The 2H detent position on the transfer case shift arm is the second position from full forward.
Align the adjustment locating hole on the lower shifter lever with the adjustment channel on the shifter bracket assembly (Fig. 105 ).
Insert an appropriately sized pin through into the adjustment channel and through the locating hole to hold the shifter in the correct position.
Tighten shift rod lock bolt to 10 N.m (90 in. lbs.) torque.
Remove the locating pin from the adjustment channel and locating hole.
Check shift linkage operation. Be sure transfer case shifts into and operates properly in all ranges.
check adjustment first it may be out of adjustment or if not it may b a tcase problem.

I followed your instructions and everything is aligned perfectly. I'm still getting the grinding sound. Anymore suggestions on where to look? It sounds like it's coming from the left front side of the truck.

if it's coming from the front and sounds like grinding, check your front axle and shafts also drive in a circle right handed that will amplify the sound to make sure it is on the lh side. Check your fluid level if really low then check for cracks and have the axle checked for a gear problem.

front left noisy, like metal clanking. I thought it might be recent brake job, but they say no. much louder when 4wd engaged.what damage have I done? estimated repair cost?

Hi loweman. Welcome to the forum. Is there a reason you think you caused this damage? If it just occurred on its own, suspect a worn universal joint between the upper and lower ball joint. There is at least one model of front axle that actually has enough room to remove and replace the joint without disassembling the entire hub and wheel bearing, but on most, you will have to remove the hub and bearing to pull the shaft out.

A really good / experienced mechanic can replace the joint in less than two hours. Typical cost of the part should be somewhere between $20.00 - 50.00.

caradiodoc

The reason I suspect damage is that I loaded the truck with firewood and drove uphill on grass until I reached pavement. At that point, I could not readily shift back to 2wd. I knew not to drive on dry pavement, so I attempted several times to roll in neutral to shift. The tires were scrubbing when I would put in drive to get enough momentum to roll in neutral. Because of the difficulty in shifting, I suspect I may have caused some damage. This is the only time I have had it in 4wd since there was snow on the ground.

Oh. Scrubbing the tires in 4wd won't do any damage for short periods of time. It's prolonged driving on the highway the puts the driveline under constant stress. If doing what you did caused problems, every 4wd truck would be in the repair shop. It is much more likely the universal joint didn't want to be a universal joint any longer and was already thinking about failing. At some point, water gets into the cups and rust them and the needle bearings. The grinding action leads to one of the cups cracking apart. Due to its design, it can't actually fall apart, but it can cause lots of noise and a horrendous vibration. I suspect the little added stress of hauling wood was just what it needed to break. The problem would have occurred anyhow, just not at that moment.

A different problem these joints can cause is if one of the cups becomes tight from rusted or broken needle bearings, it will force a turned steering wheel back straight ahead every half tire revolution. That can be a weird sensation if you've never felt it before.

caradiodoc

Whenever I put my truck into 4WD and start moving it makes a hard and loud banging noise. Sounds like metal on metal to me. I havent tried anything yet. Please Help Me! It has Automatic Transmission

Have you checked the U-Joints? Also, where is the sound coming from?

I took apart the transfer case and it ended up being broke. So I made 1 out of 2. Works great now.

That sounds like a lot of work. Regardless, glad it's fixed.

When I shift into four wheel drive it sounds like grinding and vibrations from the transmission like it is not fully engaging.

Good morning.

I would start by draining the transfer case and look for any metal in the oil. There is a shift motor that changes ranges from low to high range and two to four wheel drive.

Roy

I am going to do it when I get home. Thanks Roy.

You are welcome.

Keep us updated.

Roy

Hey Roy its still there and hard to pull the dog leg in and out it at about fifteen mph.

Was there any metal in the old oil when you drained it?

I suggested that oil change to see if there was any metal to determine if there was any damage in the transfer case.

Roy

why does the transfer case grind when i try to shift it into 4 high 4 low truck is not moveing when i try. i have to shut the truck off to switch in to diff. gears

If shifting from 4 h to 4 L, the gear ratios are different and one is spinning faster than the other. Leave the car in park and try shifting from there. That way, nothing will be turning in the drive line.

No, could it be in my actuator not going all the way?

I have been reading all the other problems people been having and reading your answer and checking them also.

It says you answered for some reason I cannot see the last couple of answers.

Sorry, was off for a bit.

yes, it could be the motor on the case or the actuator on the axle. they do need to be checked. my bet is that it is at the transfer case.


Roy

Okay, l will start at the transfer case and work my way back to the actuator. thanks I will keep you posted.

You are welcome.
keep us updated.

I guess it was a vacuum leak caused it. Because I went to vacuum system and found three vacuum leaks.

Good find. the actuator is probably fully engaging.

Roy

Yes works great.