Fuel pressure - Fuel pump?

The fuel pressure should be 47-51 - 80 is too high.

Fuel System Pressure: .................... 339 kPa ± 34 kPa (49.2 psi ± 2 psi).

Use this guide to see how to test the pressure after you install the new pump and regulator check the diagrams below to see how to get the fuel ump and regulator out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

my 5.7 hemi.i was driving 45 mph loss power when i let up on the gas it guit now i have to hold it half paddle to start and if i let get below 2000 rpms it will guit ive changed crank seednsor.
checked compressoin, spark. fuel pressure. and not giving no codes

It sounds like a fuel system problem to me. The problem is it is intermittent. It is one of those things that is mal-functioning but has not yet failed or gone out of the levels which would set of a check light. I think it is either the pump relay, the pump itself, or the fuel pressure regulator.
You are going to have to wait for it to fail enough to trip the Check Light. Then you can get an idea of what is wrong.

Good luck.

Dr. C

run five miles loses engine power starts back fireing out the throttle body

The regulator is bad.

i replaced the fuel filter regulator. you think it was a bad one. is there a way i can test it. i have changed everything but the fuel pump trying to getthis truck to run. it say when installing the regulator to put it in the same position i did. it ran for maybe ten miles then started back.

How high is the pressure? And yes,you may have gotten a bad one. That is what regulates the pressure.

the recommended presure is 42 it goes to ninety something

Okay, that isn't good. I has to be a bad reguator. Or, something is blocked. If I recall, there isn't a return from the fuel rail...correct?

no it has no return from the fuel rail. where would a block be if its not the regulator. oh i didnt have the tool for the clamp that came with the regulator so i baught a regular clap that has a flat head on it. that wouldnt have made a different would it

It shouldn have made any difference. The only thing I can think of is somehow the reguator is not able to return fuel back into the tank. As a result, the pressure builds.

I hate to say it, but I think the tank needs to come back out so you can inspect everthing. I just read through checks on Mitchel. If the pressure is too high, it says the regulator is bad. I hate to say it, but either it is bad, or something is causing it to not work.

I have a 2000 dodge ram that will not start . The timing is on it has spark and fuel pressure (45 psi) . When i begin to crank the motor the pressure begins to jump alll over the board from 30 to 60 psi. Is this a defective regulator and wiould this be my possible cause for the vehicle not to start ?

Fuel pressure is with in spec.
check for injector pulse
also disconnect O2 sensor and give it a try

ok would it be stopped up in side the tank to the regulator or on the out side of tank between regulator to where the line hook up to

I would think in the tank, but check everything to make sure nothing is plugged.

so check the line in the tank that is hooked to the regulator, and the line on the out side of the tank leaving the regulator

Check it all. Also, return the new regulator telling them it is bad and get another one.

the truck stalls at stop lights and runs fine otherwise

https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm
Also check for vacuum leaks and idle air control valve...

thanks alot jacob for the help because i didnt know what i was going to do. i have no money to put it in the shop. i thank god for yall web site it is a big help to us low income want to do it yourself guys.

You are very welcome. I just hope I helped. Also, sorry for the added work. However, with pressure that high, the regulator or something plugged is where the problem is coming from. THe 90+ psi sounds unregulated which makes me believe you have an issue with the new part. Take it back regardless if you find another problem and replace it again.

Trust me, if I couldn't work on my vehicles, I don't know what I would do. I could never pay today's labor rates.

Let me know how things work out for you.
Joe

Engine stalls and sometimes dies. When it dies it sometimes starts right up and other times is won't start for a day. Performed fuel pressure test. Fuel pressure at 4 pounds so replaced intank fuel pump. Took it to a mechanic and he diagnosed the fuel injection pump to be bad. I replaced the fuel injection pump but it did not fix the problem. Driving the truck the other day all guages in dash of truck went dead but came back on. Trouble codes P1608 and P0381. No CCD messages from TCM.
No transmission bus codes. Any help would be appreciated.

I would try this. I would look at the specific wiring schematic for your interior cluster power or ground. I would head back to the fuse panel(interior) or the Body control Module, and see if the side of the fused cluster, that feeds that section of the fuse box, heads anywhere to an intersection where the PCM gets any feed. And also follow the ground circuit to see if there is any other point of intersection that could be interupting the BCM or PCM ground, power in a common area. This seems to be a wiring intermittant open in either circuit or splice area.
I think the truck deserves a Dodge scan and their schematic sheets(readily available) experience, and possibly any inside parts or service information. ok
The in tank low pressure pump may be having communication problems with it's relay ground source(PCM).
Wrap the hose for the in-tank pressure guage through the back of the hood under your wiper blade(careful) to see if you lose pressure and power a few seconds later or less. If the OBDII is not emmissions related their(Chryslers) codes show up on the DRBIII. A big time 6 grand computer. Also if you can find the problem with it shutting off, a second problem may exist now or soon, if it is wiring and not a PCM or input sensor problem. ok joe

truck runs good until you stop, than it stalls and it will start right up again , It may do this many times trying to move forward or backwords than it runs good untill the next time. It shows no code,fuel pressure is good and checked. It does this after you drive normal for 6-10 miles never the same.It has us stumped

Thank you.

Sounds like the battery might have been disconnected or run dead recently. If so, the Engine Computer lost its memory and has to relearn "minimum throttle" before it will know when it must be in control of idle speed. It also might not give you the normal "idle flare-up" to 1500 rpm when you start the engine. To meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the brake or gas pedals.

Try disconnecting the TCC solenoid and see if it'll work and also refer to this walk thru link: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

this is the 5.9 gas,it idles fine,but when accelrates,it want take fuel,done complete tune up,the front two spark plugs on pass side,was black looking,and rest plugs was clean,checked fuel pressure 45lbs idleing,but no more pressure when accelrate,all wires plugs new,dist cap,rotor button,run about 40 mph down road thanks,

Code p1389 on my 1998 dodge 1500, 318 engine truck stalled out wouldn't run had it tested and got the code but noone can tell me how or what to fix. Truck has no fire but has fuel pressure.

My truck starts fine, runs for about 1-2 miles, then starts bucking and backfiring. I can stop it by pushing in the clutch, and taking the load off, or by holding the gas to the floor, it usually kicks down and goes. Between the Dodge Dealer and I, it doesn't give any signal on their computers, it has good fuel pressure, changed the plugs, wires, distributor, pick-up valve, and several sensors...to no avail....before I stick another grand on it, is there anything else we are overlooking?

1 and 2 plugs are runnig too rich... check for codes a nd report back...autozone does it free..

The dealer tech also said it would not be the converter being plugged, that would actually keep getting worse, rather than getting better after running rough.

We also changed the coil (twice) in the truck.

check to see if your automatic shutdown relay is working first it 's in the power dist box unerhood try replacing it first. or cleaning he ends going into box. if not that hav e pro look at it. it may be a wiring/pcm problem.

See if there is a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail (where injectors go) If there is, there should be a vacuum line to the intake, if there is fuel present in the vacuum line, the reg is blown and could be causing theose 2 cylinders to run rich, and the lack of fuel pressure "jump" when on the gas