Transmission issues

This reply assumes that you have a four speed automatic transmission, which was quite popular in Chrysler minivans since 1996. The most likely (and least costly) solution is to check the automatic transmission fluid level. If low, top it off to full level, with the engine warm! But be sure you are using the correct fluid which these days is ATF+4, never Dextron or Mercon! Depending on how many miles are on the vehicle, you may need to change the transmission fluid and the filter, because the four speed automatic transmissions are very sensitive to fluid viscosity, which naturally changes over both time and amount of usage. Pay attention to the gear shift indicator on the instrument panel. Is there any delay between when you move the shift lever, and when a ring appears around an indicated gear? Or are you seeing multiple rings at any time, around multiple gear indicators? Those are indicators that there may be a problem with the TCM (transmission control module), the solenoid pack, or the wiring between them.

Is MIL light on ie; check engine light. does transmission shift out of first to second? do rpm's go up ?

it does not shift from first to second and the rpm's do not go up. it is like you shifted to neutral. check engine light is on.

The vehicle is probably stuck in "limp mode" (which is second gear) from the time you shift it into any forward gear. That is probably because there was an internal failure in the transmission, and/or the transmission controller, and/or the transmission solenoid pack. Is there adequate fluid in the transmission?

Go to an AutoZone if can make it have codes read then post. will diagnose.

bjohnson1423, is there adequate fluid in the transmission, based on a dipstick measurement? I have asked this at least twice, but I never saw any response to the question. You could simply have a fluid level issue! But I would not recommend trying to drive the vehicle to an Autozone if it will not go faster than fifteen mph. You could become a traffic hazard under those conditions!

Yes, there is adequate fluid in the transmission. i had the fluid and filter replaced.

Docfixit, I have three codes P7034 gear four incorrect ratio, p0732 gear two incorrect ratio, p0700 transmission malfunction.

gizmoguy, I changed the fluid and filter after the transmission failed and i did not know that their was a Mopar transmission fluid thanks for the information do not know that i will change it out until i know what the problem is.

The diagnostic codes you cited simply mean the transmission is slipping (wrong input rpm for a given output rpm) in each gear that flagged an error. I am afraid you have fallen into the same trap that most people fall into, when it comes to transmission fluid in Chrysler A604 (41TE) four speed electronically controlled automatic transmissions! If you put number two diesel fuel into your gas tank and the engine refused to run, would you take the position that you will not put the correct fuel in the tank until the engine runs fine again? The problem, very likely, is the wrong transmission fluid, and probably the wrong filter as well! But, depending on how long you have been trying to drive the vehicle using the wrong transmission fluid, that incorrect fluid could have severely damaged your transmission, especially if you used Dextron fluid. It is known to actually remove the lining from the clutch plates. If you had Dextron in your Chrysler van, the transmission could already be toast. Did you consult your owner's manual for the right kind of fluid? ATF-3, ATF-4 and Chrysler 7176 are the only approved fluids fro that transmission. And putting Dextron in your transmission is as bad as putting number two diesel fuel in your gas tank. It just plain will not work!

I changed the fluid and filter after it failed but as far as driving anywhere we could not. I just limped to the auto parts store to get it scanned less than a mile and i doubt that hurt it we have had the vehicle less than three months.

That is great news (that you drove less than a mile to the store)! According to the top of this page, (copied and pasted from above),

"Asked on June 17, 2011
2003 Chrysler Town and Country lxi with 0 miles
6 cylinder 3.8 automatic front wheel drive".

With zero miles on the vehicle, the transmission cannot be in very bad condition unless it was messed up in an accident or was taken apart by somebody that did not know what he was doing. But it seems hard to believe that a 2003 van would have zero miles on it in 2011. Could the data be wrong? Here is one thing to try: With the vehicle key in the off position, disconnect the large connector that goes to the TCM (transmission control module). Let it sit about an hour that way, then reconnect it. The TCM will be reset, and the transmission may work okay, at least for a while, unless there is a clog in the solenoid pack. All this assumes that the filter is he correct one, and it is correctly installed, and that it is not blocked by debris. Good luck!

sorry about the 0 miles the van had 164,000 when we bought it. good looking van no oil leaks no leaks that i could see. we even took a six hundred mile trip in it no problems. no slips, no nothing that is why i do not think anythings wrong with the transmission. i think it is electronic.

i unplugged the TCM for about an hour or so plugged it back in still the same thing. no reverse only drive up to about fifteen mph then cuts out. getting frustrating any other options? thinking now pull it and rebuild myself unless by some miracle there is another option.

My experience with Chrysler A504 / 41TE four speed automatic transmissions has been extensive, so the advice I am about to give is based on a lot of experience, but I have never actually rebuilt one myself. The free flow of fluid is mandatory in such transmissions, and one way to tell if it is getting pumped through the system is to take one of the lines off the transmission cooler, which is usually part of the radiator (unless you have a trailer towing package). Catch the fluid in a clean container but make sure it is large enough to hold all the fluid you pump out. The fluid color should be deep red (maroon) but translucent (light can go through it easily). It should not smell burned. If the fluid looks and smells okay, your problem may be the solenoid pack (possibly clogged) or the TCM itself, or the wiring between them. One transmission shop that I know of in my area has a substitution box that (temporarily) replaces the TCM, which eliminates such possible causes as bad input and output speed sensors (and their associated wiring) from causing transmission problems. The substitution box simply operates the correct solenoids in the solenoid pack (in a pulse-width modulated fashion), for each gear selected by a switch, just like the TCM normally would. Do not try to operate any solenoid in a solenoid pack by connecting it directly to a voltage source (such as 12 to 14.5 volts system voltage), nor to a system ground! If you do, you will burn the solenoid coils out in a flash! They are only meant to be pulsed at a high rate of speed, and current limited on every pulse, under TCM control. When a TCM fails in a manner that it won't pulse the solenoids in the solenoid pack any more, both units have to be replaced at the same time, or you will immediately destroy the new unit (no matter whether it is a TCM or a solenoid pack) by connecting it to an old (defective) unit. If a solenoid pack is working correctly, you should be able to hear it ratcheting (rapidly clicking) immediately after you shift the gear selector to any gear that should cause motion. Sometimes a mechanic's stethoscope is needed to hear such things in a noisy engine compartment, but such stethoscopes are cheaply obtained at most Harbor Freight stores. Chrysler A604 and 41TE transmissions are really quite beefy, and most failures are due to lack of maintenance (not changing fluid and/or filters) or abuse (using the wrong fluid and/or filters or keeping the fluid at an inadequate level). It is true, almost any liquid would work for little while. You could even put kerosene in your engine crankcase and run the engine for a very short time, but it would get really expensive, really fast, because it is not the correct fluid for the application. ATF3, ATF4 or Chrysler 7176 are your only choices for such transmissions! I have, not one, but two Dodge Grand Caravans, both of which have the four speed automatics in them. Neither has ever been rebuilt, and both have gone over 230,000 miles with any transmission problems. But one had to have a solenoid pack replaced at about 190,000 miles because of the exact same symptoms you have described on your van. Replacing input and output speed sensors are also maintenance items that, apparently, most people are unwilling to replace, so they junk their vehicles instead.

Corection to my last post, toward the end of it:

Neither has ever been rebuilt, and both have gone over 230,000 miles without any transmission problems.

Sorry about that error.

Codes indicate internal fault line pressure loss. Need to have towed to transmission shop have pressure checked and diagnosed to determine repair and cost.

Be very careful about letting a transmission repair shop talk you into a very expensive rebuild. The website I previously hyperlinked for you, have multiple stories of those who paid for an expensive rebuild, when all they actually needed was a TCM or a solenoid pack, or both. The solenoid pack directs the path of all the internal pressures needed for proper transmission operation.

The solenoid was the first thing I replaced. I guess the TCM will be next. could the TCM be bad and still get the codes that I did? every so called transmission man that i have talked to tells me that not having reverse tells them that the transmission is bad but I cant believe that because like I said before it never slipped never jerked it shifted smoothly. the transmission fluid was not burnt and never was low. it has to be electronic. but what sensors? maybe I do not know just guessing.

In order for your vehicle to operate in reverse, the transmission must be operational, and the gearshift lever must communicate the intention of moving in reverse to the TCM. The TCM must then communicate the command to move in reverse to the solenoid pack, by pulsing the appropriate solenoids in the solenoid pack via the connecting cable. If all is well, then the solenoids will operate (being rapidly pulsed), controlling the path of the pressurized transmission fluid, resulting in drive being delivered through the torque converter to the input shaft of the transmission. As a check on things, the TCM watches for signals from both the input speed sensor and from the output speed sensor. If the TCM does not get the correct signals from both speed sensors, it will store errors concerning gear ratios and either quit trying to operate the solenoid pack altogether, or it will put the transmission into what is known as limp mode (barely movable in second gear). If the torque converter has a problem the vehicle will not go, or will barely go. If the speed sensors are not working, or not properly connected, the vehicle will not go, or will barely go. If the solenoid pack is the wrong type or the gasket is the wrong type or the correct gasket is not installed correctly, the pressure paths will not be correct for the transmission to transmit any power to the output shafts. Are you hearing any clicking sounds from the solenoid pack? Was the solenoid pack new, or used? A used one can be clogged, even if it came out of a working vehicle (especially if that solenoid pack sat unused for a long time). As I said before, you can disconnect a transmission cooling line at (or to) the radiator, start the vehicle and see if the transmission fluid is being pumped through the system, but catch that fluid or you may have a big mess to clean up. Finally, if any of the power or ground lines to the TCM and/or the solenoid pack are compromised, the transmission cannot function properly. If you drove through any debris (such as tree limbs) or water just before your "transmission failure" there is a strong possibility that a cable or wire was damaged or pulled apart, or a connector was damaged or pulled apart, resulting in your vehicle's problems. Look at your gear selector indicator on the dash. When you select a gear, is there a change in the display, such as one or all of the indicated gears having a ring light up around it (or them)? That should be the response of a correctly operating (and correctly powered) TCM. Please post whatever you find out. Thanks!

One possibility that I did not mention is this. Because Chrysler's so-called limp mode puts the transmission into second gear, if there is a clutch problem with second gear, the vehicle will act like it is in neutral because the emergency gear the system chooses is slipping! So maybe you have a good first gear (fifteen mph), then it shifts to second which slips, and the TCM detects the slippage, then forces the transmission to remain in the slipping gear. So here is a suggestion. Start the vehicle and let it warm up, at least for five minutes (engine not cold). Select first gear (and keep it there). Does it continue to go in first gear? Then stop and try reverse. Does it go in reverse? Go back to first on the gear selector. Traffic permitting, accelerate rapidly to about thirty five mph move the gear selector quickly to neutral (but definitely not reverse), take your foot off the accelerator, then select third gear before the speed falls below twenty five mph. Does the vehicle continue to go in third gear? I have driven Chrysler vehicles like that in the past, and once you get past second gear, the vehicle will drive okay, until it has to downshift for lack of speed or adequate acceleration. Please post your results.

I disconnected one of the transmission lines it is pumping fine no problems. Are there any other suggestions?

On June 19, 2011, Docfixit said, "Codes indicate internal fault line pressure loss. Need to have towed to transmission shop have pressure checked and diagnosed to determine repair and cost." But your fluid pumping test just proved that the fluid is, in fact, being pumped (but the internal pressures are still unknown at this time). The most recent post that I made on June 24th about your situation, gave a procedure to verify if the transmission is slipping as a result of defaulting into limp mode, just after shifting into second gear. The procedure was intended to prevent the vehicle from trying to use second gear at all (by skipping it altogether), but it appears that either you did not try that procedure, or you did not post any results or comments if you did try it. It was also intended to verify that the vehicle will constantly pull if forced to remain in low gear (marked L on the gear selector, not first). It was also intended to verify that R (reverse) would also continue to move the vehicle, if used before the vehicle ever attempted to shift to second gear (which is not marked as one of the choices on the gear selector). If you made any or all of those tests, please post your results. If you do not want to do any of those tests, then I am at a loss as to how to help you determine the exact problem(s) with your van.

Gizmoguy, I took the van out like you said still no reverse or second, but when bypassing second gear it runs fine i got up to fifty five to sixty no problem. so what does that tell you now? I hope it is not bad news. thank you for your help.

Sorry for the delay, but I have not been on a computer for a couple of days. The test you made (skipping second gear and going straight to third) has proven to me that the sequence happening when you just put the vehicle in "D" (drive/overdrive) is this: The vehicle starts out in L (low, AKA first), attempts a normal shift to second gear (at about fifteen mph), but then the system immediately detects second gear slippage (flagged as a gear ratio error because of input and output sensor ratio differences). Second gear is the so-called limp mode default gear in Chrysler A604 and 41TE transmissions, so when the TCM detects second gear slippage, it sets error code(s) in the computer, and forces the system to stay in second gear a gear that slips. We still need more tests to determine what else (if anything) may be wrong with your transmission. You already know how to go from first to third, skipping second. Do that test again, but thirty five mph may be a bit too fast for first gear, so only accelerate to about twenty seven to twenty eight mph in L before going to neutral, then back to third. Verify that the transmission is not slipping in third gear, then when you get up to around forty five to fifty mph, shift to D (drive/overdrive), and see if it slips in that forward gear. If all else is well, you should be able to drive at Interstate highway speeds in drive/overdrive. Stop the vehicle in a place where you could easily back the vehicle up in reverse, then park and turn it off. Disconnect the (possibly very warm) TCM cable for about an hour. Then reconnect the TCM cable. Start the vehicle and put the gear selector into R (reverse and no other gear!). Does it go in reverse under those conditions without slipping? Post your results and we can proceed further from that point.

gizmoguy, I took the van out this morning and started out in first got up to twenty five mph shifted to neutral then shifted to third no slipping in third accelerated up to forty five mph still no slippage then shifted to drive the transmission shuddered for about one second then slipped and quit pulling. returned home repeating the sequence again with the same result. it will not even pull in low you have to shut it off and start all over again. i disconnected the TCM it was not even hot, not even warm. left it disconnected for about an hour then reconnected it started it put it in reverse nothing. still no reverse.

Thank you for performing those tests and posting the results. Here is a bit more useful information for you, based on my experience with the transmission you have in your van. When you shifted into D and it shuddered and then quit pulling, it had already set an error code and automatically locked itself into limp mode, which is second gear, and since second gear slips, the van quit pulling altogether. There is a 2/4 clutch in your transmission, which serves both gears. Neither second nor fourth gear works properly in your vehicle. So the 2/4 clutch is under preliminary suspicion of being defective. However, the other shared clutch in your transmission is L/R (low/reverse). Low apparently works okay, but reverse does not. That is a highly unusual situation. Based on these observations, you could have a wiring (electrical cable) problem from the TCM to the solenoid pack. A defective TCM could produce the same result. Based on the (relatively low) mileage on the transmission (164,000 miles), I seriously doubt that your problem was caused by internal mechanical failure. My 1996 Dodge Grand Caravans both went over 230,000 miles without major transmission problems, but then the only fluids I ever used in them were ATF+3 and ATF+4. The fluid type(s) in your vehicle are still unknown to me. I do know, that, based on information you can find on Allpar.com about the A604 and 41TE automatic transmissions, using Dextron fluid in them can ruin them, because the clutch lining on the friction disks will come apart and very possibly clog up critical fluid passages (such as those that the solenoid pack directs fluid through, in the various gears).

The best way to unravel the exact problem a this point, is to find a transmission shop that has a direct select substitution box with which very.

There are two shared clutch assemblies in your four speed automatic transmission. There is a L/R (low/reverse) clutch assembly. Low apparently works okay, but not reverse. Highly unusual! There is also a 2/4 clutch assembly, and neither one works. You said you replaced the solenoid pack, so I am assuming it was replaced with a new one. If your transmission fluid is at the normal level, and not low at all, and 100% of that fluid consists of ATF+3, ATF+4, or Chrysler 7176, or any transmission fluid, the most likely problem you have is either a defective TCM, or defective wiring, or possibly defective input speed and/or output speed sensors, and/or their wiring. But if the fluid is a mix that contains 20% or more of Dextron fluid, you are facing a major rebuild, because the clutch (fiber) material is disintegrating as I am writing this. However, if your transmission fluid contains Mercon but no Dextron, a complete flush and refill (including the correct Mopar filter and not an aftermarket filter, which seldom meet Chrysler specifications), there is a good possibility your will not have to remove the transmission from the vehicle.

Four times today alone, system glitches have caused an abrupt end to my editing sessions on this forum. Perhaps the problems were caused by solar flares that I have recently read about, or perhaps the problems were due to simple Internet congestion. I have no way of finding out the exact cause(s). To continue a previous post that interrupted earlier today (without notice, warning, or defined cause), please read the following:

The best way to unravel the exact problem(s) at this point, is to find a transmission shop that has a direct select substitution box with which every gear can be independently and individually selected on your van, completely bypassing the TCM and the input and output speed sensors. If the shop will allow it, ride with them so you can see and feel the test results. If they will not let you ride with them, try to find a shop that will allow it! Be very cautious! Although fortunately, there are many good exceptions, generally speaking, the best way that you can tell if a repair shop is lying to you, is look and see is that person's mouth moving? Good luck!

What great information! We just bought a 2002 Chrysler Town and Country with 125,000 miles on it after trying life with an SUV and determining it was way too small for us. We have returned to mini-van life and are loving it. We would like to avoid the transmission issues that plagued our last Chrysler mini-van, so, taking in all the maintenance issues you have talked about above. The transmission has been replaced once at around 85,000 miles. Any other maintenance tips to share?

lghexpat, thanks for the compliment, but if you like somebody's answer(s) on this forum, the correct way to convey your satisfaction is to rate the answer(s)!

Regarding maintenance tips on your Chrysler four speed automatic transmission, I find it amazing but true, that most"would be" mechanics (that have little formal training or are totally unscientific in their approaches to repair and/or maintenance tasks), generally have a "look-a likes are fine" attitude. They are all out to get you, and destroy your transmission(s). To put that in real world terms, the next time you go to bake a cake, if the recipe calls for vegetable oil, use motor oil instead. That should work just fine because they look so similar at room temperature, right? Wrong! Apply that scenario to using incorrect transmission fluids in Chrysler A604 or 41TE four speed automatics. The transmission will react the same way you would, to the motor oil-based cake. It will get really sick really fast. So, how has the general public (who own those own and operate those transmissions) reacted? They insist that it should not matter what fluid they put in their transmissions, and if they cannot find the right fluid (or it is too much more expensive, or they have to go somewhere other than a grocery store or pharmacy to buy it), then "they" (including many so-called "professional mechanics") will put in anything within reach. Dextron is usually what they use, without even checking a manual! That has ruined countless Chrysler A604 and 41TE transmissions, and Chrysler got a very undeserved bad reputation because of countless people who did not know what to use, so just guessed at it. So, here you go, enjoy a big piece of motor oil cake. If you cannot find the right transmission fluid, try liquid soap, or maybe a lot of bacon grease. Those feel kind of slick too, so why would they not work just as well as the fluids that the owners manuals recommend? The bottom line is, IF you are having your vehicle serviced anywhere but a Chrysler dealer or authorized service center, watch what they put into your transmission, and demand that they give you the empty containers that you paid for. Never let anyone put anything in your transmission that was not in a sealed, factory-labeled container. If you recently got your vehicle and you do not know for a fact that 100% of the fluid in your transmission is ATF+3 or ATF+4 or Chrysler 7176, or any combination of only those three fluids, then immediately have the fluid and filter(s) changed (hurry, but do not get a speeding ticket on the way to the shop) and have the whole system power flushed by correctly using the appropriate transmission flushing equipment. You must assume that the wrong fluid is in the system, unless you have documentation and videos showing the mechanic breaking the seal on factory marked containers of the appropriate fluid(s). If you did not witness the seal breaking, then assume the container was re-used and it had something else in it, such as soda pop. Hope for the best, but assume the worst, and act accordingly, to protect your investment in your vehicle.