engine is running rough

Engine Is Running Rough, Go to this walk thru link: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Just to add to this one have you checked the compression of all the cylinders yet?Also post all replies here dont start new questions.

Ok so I was getting two cylinder 4 misfire codes , so I did a compression test. When I removed the coil pack cylinder 4spark plug was submerged in coolant (assuming not good) compression results c-1 195,c-2 205,c-3 205, and c-4 wet with coolant 215 I stopped there it was late. Can I torque the cylinder bolt a little more around cylinder 4

Was the coolant in the spark plug hole or outside the plug in the spark plug well?Also did you have the head pressure tested at the machine shop before putting it on?Did you tourqe the head down correctly with the correct tourqe and tourqe patteren?If you did you cant just tourqe it more there is something wrong thats why there is coolant.

There was both coolant in the plug well as well as in the cylinder itself when I removed the the plug, the others were dry . Yes it was pressure tested and exhaust valves were replaced I followed the torque pattern from the book used 45lbs of torque.

45 ftlbs?The main head bolts are 22 ftlbs then 155 degrees of tourqe angle.Then the front bolts in the timing chain area are 15 ftlbs of tourqe.Also if there is coolant leaking into the area where the spark plug boot/wire area there has to be a issue with the head how else could it get into there?

thank you for the info, removed the head (back to the machine shop) the head was pressure tested at a higher psi and it was cracked around the spark plug hole. the head was replace with a remanufactured rebuild. (free of charge,easy like pulling teeth) after re-installation the engine started right up (sweet!) But, Now it sounds like it needs a valve adjustment ? multiple valve ticks across the entire valve cover. Can they be adjusted on the engine? if so shouldnt this have been already done with the rebuild? if not any ideas? I have lost trust in the machine shop I used, they didnt want to warranty there service

That engine has self adjusting hydralic lifters no adjustment there.One thing comes to mind did you change the oil when you replaced the head?If so did you install the correct oil filter?You can actually install the V6 oil filter found on the L300 when that happens oil flow to the top end is lost and the lifters dont pump up and valves can be bent.

I replacent the filter again just for assurance. Purchased from dealer this time,no change. I checked the engine pressure and I think the pump is bad. At idle the pressure is 32 psi. With acceleration it increases to 77psi. The engine sounds good with acceleration . Could this have been the reason for the head failure to start with ? Any thoughts before I pull the pump out .

Are we talking about oil pressure here?

Yes , I am under the impression oil pressure disburses oil on the valves to lubercate , hence reduce the noise I am hearing in the vavle cover. Any suggestions will be greatly accepted

The oil pressure at 1,000 rpms should be 50-80psi so raise the rpms up to 1,000 rpms and see what the pressue is.

ok just getting back in the garage, I rechecked the pressure and the car idles at 1000 rpms. the pressure is reading 74psi. I am very puzzled?

Oil pressure is good so did the lifters clack before you removed the head?

I am unaware of that. It didn't run when I purchased the car. I can say that it has a entirely refurbished/head on it. The cracked one was replaced not refurbed.I was able to see them side by side. If that is of any help.

If the oil pressure is good and lfters are clacking then you have bad lifters or a restriction in the oil flow to the top end.Did you put a new timing chain set with the head?New tenisor sprockets chain guides etc?

I did not personally purchase the chain and guide set new out of package. I bought it from the machine shop who varified it was new, but I did not open it out of a package. I did personally buy a dealer part tensioner.(sorry if I am causing confusion, I had workmanship problems with the machine shop I used, I dont truly trust thier judgement any longer)

So are you sure its the lifters and not the chain making the clicking noise?

I am very sure its the lifters,the noise is coming from the valves. i removed the valve cover,loosened slightly the rocker arm bolts slightly and cranked the engine.oil is present but i do not see any oil shooting in the air., the chain appears to remain tight

So how loud are the lifters clacking super loud not so loud etc?Also was the area on the top of the head under the valve cover all black and nasty before the repairs?If you wernt getting oil pressure to the lifters they would be loose after the car has ran after installing them.

They r very loud, they quiet down when I give it some gas . But they get loud again on idle. Yes the underside of the valve cover was black . Do u think I need new lifters

After its run remove the valve cover and see if the lifters are loose.