Car will not start

This is not a cylinder head gasket issue. That has nothing to do with too much fuel. The vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator is the proper place to look for fuel leaking into it, but as for blowing through it, which way are you blowing? You should have free flow into the intake manifold, not into the regulator.

The cam and crank sensors aren't the problem either. If they do not work, you will not have spark.

Check for a crushed or restricted fuel return line between the fuel pressure regulator and the gas tank. That will cause the fuel pressure to be too high, and too much fuel will spray in. To temporarily stop the fuel flow, you can remove the fuel pump fuse or relay, but you will need a scanner to view live data to look for other causes. The mass air flow sensor has the biggest say in how much fuel enters the engine. It is operation can be observed on the scanner. If you have just one or two cylinders getting too much fuel, you might look for their control wire being shorted to ground. The driver circuit in the engine computer could be shorted too, but that is not common. Either condition will hold those injectors open all the time and you will get way too much fuel. The clue there is to measure fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge. The engine has to be cranking for the fuel pump to run. With the ignition switch on but not cranking the engine, fuel pressure must stay up. If it bleeds down, an injector is sticking open or is being turned on. Measure the voltage between the pair of wires to see if it is an electrical problem or a mechanical problem. If you find voltage across a pair of injector wires, we have to determine why. If you find 0 volts but it is still spraying fuel, that injector is stuck open.

GXE model will not start. I have spark, fuel.

Will the engine run when you spray starting fluid? Here is a guide to help us get started:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers

When you crank it, it acts like it is starting and then it stops. Spark is okay, fuel is okay. I do not know if the cam and crank sensors working.

It sounds like you have a timing chain issue. Can you test the compression to see if it is low? This will confirm the issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers

Compression is 70 pounds. I took it to the shop and they told me timing chain and it would cost about $1,200.00 to fix so I have to save my money. Thanks for your help on this. I love this site.

Use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help. Please tell a friend.

Cheers

Four cylinder front wheel drive automatic.

I was driving my car the another night. I noticed that the car went down in speed. It quickly picked speed back up. When I came to a stop light, the car cut off. It started back up. I kept going and it went down in speed again. I pulled over to the side, it cut off again. It took a few seconds to start it. I managed to get it started. I drove back home cut it off. I cut it back on and it started right up. The next morning it started for about a minute, then it shut off and have not started since. My mechanic did some testing like, he tested the fuses, he changed the spark plugs, tested the fuel pump. He ruled out the fuel pump because, he listed for the sound and sprayed starter fluid to see if the car would start. It did not, so that is why he is ruling out the fuel pump. Help.

Hi vallegs11,

Thanks for the donation.

Based on your description of the symptoms and test done, it should be electrical.

Did your mechanic test for sparks at the plugs?

Was the CEL showing when the car started to misbehave?

I know he put new spark plugs in, but I do not know if he tested them for spark. What is a CEL?

Hi vallegs11,

CEL = Check Engine light in the meter.

Ask him the question about the sparks.

Has the distributor and its components been checked ?

Any fuse blown?

Is there power supply to the distributor when ignition switch is turned on?

Ask more questions to make your mechanic sweat. ;)

No, there is not spark coming from the spark plugs.
I do not have a distributor. He did check the fuses.

Car would not start in the morning.
It has happened twice. Car would turn but would not start. I open the plugs I saw some fuel on the top of the pistons. Plugs were wet with fuel. I sprayed some starting fluid and crank it for good two minutes then the car would start. Once the car is started it would run fine without a problem. (starts on first crank)
No code in the car computer? Please help.
Thanks

Check the coolant temperature sensor and cold start injector time switch and cold start injector.

Cold start injector injects fuel for a short period of time-before the CTS takes over to demand fuel from the computer.

Hi vallegs11,

Get a scan done to find out if there are any error data stored in the ECM.

When there is no sparks from the coil, either it is bad or it is not receiving the signal to work.

It could be a faulty crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. Check their resistance.

Resistance should be more than zero and not infinity. Measure between pins 1 to 2 and 1to 3.

What is a good method to check these items?
Thanks for your help.

Check the CTS connection make sure its tight

Check the CTS resistances warm and cold-should have a high resistance when cold and decreases when hot. CTS should be close by the thermostat housing-not really familiar with this model.

The computer uses the CTS signal to determine how long to open the injectors for fuel demand during open loop mode -meaning when the engine is cold before the oxygen sensor takes over

Checked the CTS it is fine. Where would I find cold start injector time switch? What would be the next thing to check?
Thanks

Change the CTS but still have to crank a lot in the morning, once it warms up no problem? What next in line to check?
Thanks

Check the throttle position and airflow meter sensors connectors and bench test the AFM.

I get code p0335 on unit. Will this prevent it from starting and if so the ECM?

That is for the crankshaft position sensor, and yes it will make the car shut off. Fairly common on Nissan's, the dealer should have a big box of them. It is located at the right rear of the engine, down low.

I just bought the car and it started right up and drove home. Everything worked fine. It started fine a few other times. This time I tried to start it and It just turns over and does not try to start. I checked the fuel flow at the injector rail and get fuel when I turn on the key. I checked and do not get any spark at the spark plugs. I pulled each spark plug and left it attached to the coil unit and grounded the plug. With the engine turning over I get no spark. I am using the same key I always have and it is not a programmable key. I have checked every fuse inside the car and under the hood. They are all good. I have looked through the oil cap and the cam is turning so I assume the timing belt is okay. When I attach a scanner it will not read the computer, it says ensure the key is turned on and the scanner is attached. When the key is turned to the on position the check engine light comes on and clicks several times as if it is going through a process. What else would stop the spark?

With the engine turning over I get no spark.

Check fuse number 34, ECM relay and crankshaft position sensor and also check for power on the coils green and white wire.

Is there any way to check a crank position sensor without replacing it?

Measure its resistances using an ohmmeter and inspect wiring.

My GXE model cranks but will not start. Upon trying to start the car the engine will try to start but will not have that initial "go" (will crank and try to start but it just will not although it sounds like it will try). I have gone through a whole new gas pump assembly, checked the fuel lines and they all seem to not have an no bents nor obstructions. Checked all relays and they all seem to be working properly. I am getting spark in all four cylinders and timing is correct as well. Compression test was done about two months ago and the engine passed the test with flying colors.

A neighbor of mine who is more mechanically experienced started trouble shooting with me but we did not reach a conclusion. However, when he tried to spray gas down the throttle body the car stated up. However, again, the car will stay running if the fuel return line of the rail remained open, throwing fuel everywhere in the garage. As soon as we placed the fuel return line back on, it will stall out.

Another thing that will help diagnose the problem might be that when we tested the voltage for the injectors it gave us an odd reading (to my understanding) of constant 12 volts to the injectors. Now, I do not know if that is normal or not for this vehicle in specific. We came to the conclusion that it could be the ECU or something but I will like a professional's opinion before to see if my diagnostic is either right or wrong. Also, I want to know the reason on why the car is doing that if my diagnostic is wrong. Thank you!

Scan for codes, check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it, and try resetting security system.
Here are a couple of guides to help you:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

I have put my car in the shop for the same problem it has not been corrected. On several occasions it would not start. If I allow it to sit a couple of days after a no start condition it will start right up. I have had the battery and spark plugs replace. I have also had the fuel injectors clean. I do live in a colder climate. Do not have the problem in the summertime.

Check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it. Here is a guide to help you:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Also, scan for codes and return with the code numbers so that I can further assist you.

Here is a link to an article from this site that features written step by step instructions and pictures explaining how to do the scan yourself. Also, I have included a link to our YouTube channel with a how to video on code scanning.

This is applicable even if your check engine light is not on.

Most scanners are inexpensive to purchase, you can purchase one online from sites like Amazon.com

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Hello, my car quit running about a month ago driving uphill in the highway. People helped me and they checked for spark and there was none and tried to start it with starting fluid but was no successful. So I have no spark, in any coil, I disconnected it and checked if I have voltage and ground and I do, how can I check for signal? I am not positive if I got a good reading. I have changed a new crankshaft sensor, and that is all I have done so far. The starter cannot be, and I do not know about the alternator. But would that make the coils not have spark? Someone help me, thank you.

There was a recall for replacing the cam/ crank sensors. Call your local dealer so that they run a VIN number check or you can check it yourself.

https://vinrcl.safercar.gov/vin/

If the recall was complete then try a cam sensor. Here is what the recall letter looked like:


Nissan has determined that some 2000-2003 model year Nissan vehicles may have a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety. The engine might stop running while being driven if the crank position sensor or cam position sensor fails. This may also result in the "Service Engine Soon" light coming on or reduced engine power. If the engine stops running while driving, this could result in a crash without warning.

IDENTIFICATION NUMBER

Nissan has assigned identification number R3022 to this campaign. This number must appear on all communications and documentation of any nature dealing with this campaign.

NUMBER OF VEHICLES POTENTIALLY AFFECTED

The number of vehicles potentially affected is approximately 572,000.

DEALER RESPONSIBILITY

It is the retailer's responsibility to check Service Comm for the campaign status on each vehicle falling within the range of this voluntary safety recall which for any reason enters the service department. This includes vehicles purchased from private parties or presented by transient (tourist) owners and vehicles in a dealer's inventory. Federal law requires that new vehicles in dealer inventory which are the subject of a safety recall must be corrected prior to sale. Failure to do so can result in civil penalties by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. While federal law applies only to new vehicles, Nissan strongly encourages dealers to correct any used vehicles in their inventory before they are retailed.

Hello, I cannot figure out what the problem is with this car. It has about 130,000 miles it has fuel and spark. The coil packs are fine we have already tried swapping them out. Tested every fuse in the car and they are all good. Fuel pump is priming. Fuel at the rail. We have the crankshaft position sensor off the car to test this I was wondering if anyone knows how to read this sensor. I checked my service manual and it only shows when the car is running but this car does not run. No check engine lights. It has compression. Any suggestions on how to get this car running again?

Do you have injection pulse? Do you have a good hot blue spark at the plugs?

We have injection pulse. We have very little spark.

Poor spark voltage is going to be the problem here. If you have a spark the crank angel sensor is working, you are getting the signal to the ECU, you need to check coil input voltages next.

My will not start unless I press down The gas pedal and then the rpm goes up high and then the car suddenly shuts off. Any ideas? Thanks.

Clean out the idle air control valve and test the throttle position sensor.

Alright, I will clean the IAC. How do I test the throttle position sensor? Do I use a multi-meter or something? Thanks.

So one morning I wanted to go for a drive in my little car, then it would not start. I had the battery replaced, alternator checked, fuel pump works, starter checked, and I even checked all the hoses. Note: My car at 121,000 miles would randomly overheat so I replaced my thermostat then after that I drove for another 3,000 miles and every now and then ( even when I first bought it at 108,000) it would hesitate to start. Now when I try to start it I can smell a faint scent of gas coming from the front of the car. Really need to fix this problem ASAP! Thanks!