What would cause my engine to stall?

If this problem is only here when at idle, i would get the IASC cleaned and checked, check that the throttler body is clean and check for any vacuum leaks, a mechanic should only be charging about 1Hrs labour to do these simple checks.

This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

mhpautos - thank you for your suggestions...will definitely get the throttler and vacuum leaks checked.

CJ MEDEVAC - I will have you know that I check my fluids on a regular schedule which is why I knew what needed to be added, and I was surprised that oil was not registering. Maybe the females in your house aren't listening, because they are tuning out the small minded male chauvistic pig who is speaking.

Hi:

The rough idle is most likely the result of a sensor problem. If the check engine light has come on, have the computer scanned to identify trouble codes. Most nationally recognized parts stores will do it for free. My first guess is the idle air control valve (IAC) or you may have a simple vacuum leak. Try this, start the engine and open the hood. Listen for hissing sounds and try to locate them if you hear one. A vacuum hose may have come off or dry rotted and need replaced. If you go to our homepage under the DIY section, there are involved directions that explaine different ways to check for vacuum leaks. As far as the IAC, you can remove it from the throttle body and inspect it for operation. There is a pintil valve that should move when you turn the key from off to on. If it doesn't move, replace it. Its purpose is to allow metered air into the engine at an idle, when the throttle plate is closed. If it doesn't work properly, the engine idle will be affected.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.
Joe

Car will start but dies at about 1000 rpm's. sometimes though if you rev the car up to hi rpm's it will run just fine even at low idle until you turn the car off and start it again. Then you have to go thru the hole thing of reving it on high to keep it running at low idle.

Sounds like the battery might have been disconnected or run dead recently. If so, the Engine Computer lost its memory and has to relearn "minimum throttle" before it will know when it must be in control of idle speed. It also might not give you the normal "idle flare-up" to 1500 rpm when you start the engine. To meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the brake or gas pedals.

Engine Mechanical problem
2002 Jeep Liberty 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

I have a Jeep Liberty Sport 2002, 6cyl 4 wheel drive...Recently when driving on a highway I needed to accelerate rapidly andf punched the gas pedal. It immediately started to "buck" and backfire. When I let off of the gas it was vibrating terribly...I managed to get to work and left the car standing all day. When I started it after work it ran fine but the engine light remained on. I was told that if ther is nothing wrong the engine light would shut off eventually. It did it again several days later and I managed to get it to a auto repair shop. They told me it was the fuel pump and that they would change it along with the filter, two sensors, all coils and spark plugs. It now starts fine but will always stall while underway. The mechanics cannot find the problem. HELP!!! I need this car for work!

it would be helpfull if you have the code written.
the code is more important than anything guessing.
sorry it's costing you money and still the problem is not solv.
if you take your car to auto part store or get one with us on link below.write the code down and post it to me.

That's the biggest problem that I have, all of the codes have cleared and we can't figure out why it is still stalling. It starts fine and runs, however, we take it out for a test ride, and it constantly stalls.. As I mentioned before, both fuel pumps were replaced along with the fuel filter, all ignition coils, new plugs and two new sensors, still no luck...We are now lost...I don't know why it is stalling?

3.7L Engine Firing order: 1-6-5-4-3-2 Distributor rotation: clockwise

Check the firing order, the engine may not start or it may pop and backfire when firing order is messed up.
The replacement wires should also be routed exactly the same as the originals, and supported by looms or clips so they do not contact the exhaust manifold.
You could scan it anyway, there may be pending code.

I will check the firing order and the wires first thing in the morning...I have my fingers crossed...thanks

I have two problems. First, when driving my front left wheel makes a loud clicking noise with each revolution. It stops completely as soon as I apply the brake. I have had the Brake pads, housing, calipers etc all changed, and it is still there. Its very loud and frankly, embarassing.
My 2nd problem has just started. When sitting in Park my car will stall out. I can start it again no problem. Also, when sitting at traffic lights, in Drive, but at idle, it tries to do the same thing. The RPM's will sit at 600 (normal) then all of a sudden the car will shudder, and the RPM's will drop right down, until it seems to re-correct itself back up to 600. For the first time today, it wasn't able to recorrect itself, and it actually cut out, while at a traffic light. Again, I could start it up. I also noticed that when I first turn the car on, the idle seems to go up really high (2000) which I don't remember it doing. I had the Crank Sensor (?) replaced, and that didn't help. Also It is not 'bad' gasoline.
Please help! :)

Timing, firing order ok...Now the mechanic tells me that my computer went crazy...I need a new one...So far they have changed both fuel pumps, all ignition coils and spark plugs, fuel filter, ignition wires, battery and now I need a new computer for upteen dollars..I may not know much about cars but I don't think that I am that stupid either....How can every part that they replaced be bad all at the same time...When I ask them if there are any codes on the diagnostic meter, they claim it is all clear..How can that be??? I am frustrated, tired and disgusted and I don't know what to do...Any help will be greatly appreciated...Thanks

clean the throttle platewith choke cleaner on botsh sides as well as the idle air control valve, usually an oblong hole by throttle plate. then spray around intake for vacuum leaks. have the front axle checked for the clicking, this can be a suspension/acle problem or just rust falling off someplace causing this but a pro shold be able to see what is wrong with it. I would suspect a brake problem myself though as it stops when you apply them. the engien will start hard after you sparay the tp with the cleaner and make sure to hook up duct work before starting.

The problem must occur a number of time before the engine code presents itself again since the previous code was clear by your mechanic, its call the drive cycle.
Here is a drive cycle technique to bring back the engine light.

Ensure that the fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full.
Start cold (below 86°F /30°C) and warm up until engine coolant temperature is at least 160° F (typically requires at least one minute; up to 3 minutes).
Accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for five minutes.
Decelerate without using the brake (coast down) to 20 MPH or less, and then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.
Restart and accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for two minutes.
Decelerate with using the brake by coasting down to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.
Start the vehicle again; your engine light should come on.

Note: check your receipt when you had your diagnostic test done, because usually they will write down your code number along with the repair information if you still have it

I will try that procedure tomorrow so that we can check the engine codes...I don't think that I mentioned that the car runs well when it is basically cold..After driving it for ten minutes or so it will stall and then finally shut down..If you let it sit for ten minutes it will start up again until the engine heats up and then it will stall and shut down all over again.

Well, I did exactly what you recommended, the computer reset itself and guess what, I have a blown intake manifold gasket...They are replacing it now and it looks like this will do the trick..
I appreciate your time and effort and I will recommend this site to everyone....Thanks again!!

My car has been repaired and is running again, however, I have noticed that the car seems sluggish now. It does not have that great pickup that it had before the break down. My question is, if they set the ignition timing improperly, would that affect the pickup?

Thanks again for your help.....

engine quits while driving. Wait a few minutes it
starts. OBD II codes, 320 & 725, engine speed
circuit. Only happens when vehicle has sat prior
to driving it. Happens first few miles of driving after
not being run for a full day or more. Low fuel level
in tank seems to play a role

I'm not a pro, or employed by this site, however, i may have your solution. I have an 03 Liberty that was stalling as well. After about 2-3 blocks the motor would shut off, stop, restart, worked ok for a while. Look into the Cam and Crank angle sensors. If I recall correctly, they were relatively inexpensive to replace.

Hello ajmedico
Welcome back to 2carpros.com
The computer is responsible of advancing and retarding the ignition timing base on the input from Map sensor/baro

When the engine is working hard
(Accelerating), intake vacuum drops as the throttle opens wide. The engine sucks in more air, which requires more fuel to keep the air/fuel ratio in balance. In fact, when the computer reads a heavy load signal from the MAP sensor, it usually makes the fuel mixture go slightly richer than normal so the engine can produce more power. At the same time, the computer will retard (back off) ignition timing slightly to prevent detonation (spark knock) that can damage the engine and hurt performance.
An engine code should be set, keep your eyes on it or you can have the map sensor tested.

Thanks again....I will check the map sensor for settings...

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My #4 cylender has a zero compression, will I have to get a new engine? The shop I took it to told me i would have to get a whole new engine due to the zero compression and it would be cheaper to buy a new one.

Compression loss is normally caused by the valve seats being worn.
Other causes are piston ring(s) worn or broken or a head gasket leakage.

I would try a different shop. You shouldn't have to get a new engine.

I have a 2002 jeep liberty limited with 71000 miles. I had it brand new for 4 yrs. my jeep stalls when I take my foot off the gas and when it's running,it runs very rough. I always change the oil and fluids and have never had a problem with it in 4yrs. what can I do?

[quote:37db1b9f70="wytashe"]I have a 2002 jeep liberty limited with 71000 miles. I had it brand new for 4 yrs. my jeep stalls when I take my foot off the gas and when it's running,it runs very rough. I always change the oil and fluids and have never had a problem with it in 4yrs. what can I do?[/quote:37db1b9f70]

Be advised this is not a simple fix.

If it was me I'll start by checking the fuel pressure-when its rule out-investigate the EGR valve, its very common problem during idling it dilutes the A/F mixture.

Other Category problem
1999 Jeep Liberty 6 cyl Wheel Drive Type unknown Automatic 102000 miles
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Car will stall for no apparent reason. After driving for about 10 miles (sometimes a little more), the car will stall/turn off with no warning that it is going to do so (gage lights don't come on, engine doesn’t stutter, etc). It just shuts off as if the key was turned off (which it isn’t). After about 3-4 minutes of sitting it will start back up and drive another 10 (aprox.) miles and stall again.
We have checked all connectors and all are good. We had the gas tested, it is good. We also put a tester on it and did not give any diagnosis code.

what is the exact production date off the sticker on the drivers door sill? im not showing a Liberty in 99

I'm so sorry, its a Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo (not liberty).

In that case try replacing the ASD relay (Auto-shutdown). Have seen many of them go bad, and the truck will just sign off if it fails