Engine loses power going up hills

check fuel pressure with a gauge should be 60-66 psi key on engine off. scan for codes and check crank and cam sensors.

This guide will help fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down this guide and report back.

While driving using cruise control it seemed like someone put the vehicle in neutrel and sped up the engine and then back in drive. We drove it home and about 2 weeks later while driving it just lost all power could go no faster than 10 miles a hour. we did change plugs,wires,cap,rotor,sensor by air filter,cat,plus did a compression test which was fine.RPM does not go higher than 1500. Going crazy what else can be done?

did you check the MAF (mass air flow) sensor. this could cause it. does it have a check engine light on.

[quote:d45faec2c3="rhall77"]did you check the MAF (mass air flow) sensor. this could cause it. does it have a check engine light on.[/quote:d45faec2c3]already changed that and no check engine light is on right now

can you check and see what your fuel trims are reading with a scan tool

It was the fuel pump I got new one and installed it all good now thanks for your help.

I have a 2002 blazer. While driving to work one day, I noticed I couldnt get past 70 mph. As I continued driving the rest of the week, my speed and power loss was declining rapidly. 70 mph, then 50 mph, 40 and now i cant get it to 25 mph. While driving, the engine would cut out, and jerk.The engine starts right up, no prblems. The engine boggs down when I push on the accelerator.( misfires, engine shakes) The rpm gauge gets to 1500 rpm and it sounds like a sucking air type noise, and when i push the accelerator further, the engine rpm stays the same or will decrease, even when accelerator is pushed more than half way, with alot of noise coming from the engine. Ive hooked up dianostics, and when it gets to the part where it says 7 ready(or it should) it reads evap, o2 sensor catalyst incomplete. Ive replaced spark plugs, checked rotor cap,(its fine) plug wires, replaced fuel pump, fuel fliter, map sensor, and cleaned mass air flow sensor. The more i try to run the engine, the worse it becomes daily, engine power, ect. Now i cant even drive it down the road. I barely push on the accelerator and it boggs right out, idle becomes very rough, but it doesnt stall..HELLPPPPP

no i mean fuel trims. it the reading that tells you weather you have a vacuum leak (lean condition) or to much fuel (rich condition)

[quote:51ee5b574a="rhall77"]no i mean fuel trims. it the reading that tells you weather you have a vacuum leak (lean condition) or to much fuel (rich condition)[/quote:51ee5b574a]okay how do I do this?

Sounds like it may have a plugged cat converter.Try loosening the exhaust where the manifolds and head pipes meet to let the exhaust out. Drive it and see if it is any better.It will be loud, but if the cats are the problem it will accelerate

you will need a scan tool that will read fuel trim (like a tech 2 from your local dealer). road test it. if it is -15% then your engine is sucking air which in most cases is a vacuum leak. if it is +15% then its a rich condition and it is getting to much fuel. in all cases you want it to be around + or - 3%. right around 0%. if you can get back to me what the reading are.

EXCELLENT!!! Saved me time and a lot of money! Followed mechanics directions, and it was the problem! Thanks so much!!

also did you check your fuel filter to see if it was plugged. if you didnt i would do that first before the fuel trims.

Glad we were able to find it so quick. good job

[quote:9c145fbfa3="rhall77"]also did you check your fuel filter to see if it was plugged. if you didnt i would do that first before the fuel trims.[/quote:9c145fbfa3]already replaced the fuel filter this morning

I was driving to work and noticed all of a sudden, I couldnt go over 70mph. Going up slight inclines on the highway my engine would bogg down when I tried to push on the accelerator to maintain my current speed, and I would actually lose speed and engine power. I kept driving it the rest of the week and each day the power loss would get worse. 70 mph at first, then 50, 40 25, and now I cant even drive it down the road. When the accelerator is pushed, the engine misfires, shakes ect. I try to rev the engine, and it it a very loud bogging sound, and I cant get the rpm gauge past 2500. The engine starts up fine, idles fine until the accelerator is pushed. Ive replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, map sensor, spark plugs, checked the rotor , ditrbutor cap, plug wires, air filter, cleaned mass air flow sensor with appropriate cleaner, they are fine. I used a OBD11 and I always get different codes, the check engine light will come on, but be off when I start the engine the next time. After the codes the mil on or off display follows, and instead of it reading 7 ready it reads 4 incomplete..o2 sensor catalyst, evap htr.

then your next step is to check your fuel trims

[quote:11b64c905c="buddy88"][quote:11b64c905c="rhall77"]also did you check your fuel filter to see if it was plugged. if you didnt i would do that first before the fuel trims.[/quote:11b64c905c]already replaced the fuel filter this morning[/quote:11b64c905c]did a vacuum test was okay except when idle it was 15" of vacum and fluctuated

i was driving and had a loss of power then it wouldnt start. husband saw the amount of oil we had and drained the oil and antifreeze! it started after no fluids and oil in it! when he put antifreeze in it again it poured out the oil plug!

Are you talking about a freeze-plug? What oil plug?

Hope the engine didn't sieze?

Either blown headgasket or cracked head

Are you talking about the oil drain plug? Maybe you will get lucky and it is just a gasket, intake or head gasket. From here the possibilities get worse, something cracked, block or head.

I've taken this thing to the shop for over 8 months now back and forth. 1st Fuel Pump. 2nd. Ignition coil and wires. 3rd. Distributor cap and spark plug wires. 4. Mapf sensor, temperator sensor. 5. Ignition module, and wire harness. 6. Mapf sensor harness was clipped and put back together. 7. Also had to replace the fuel pump again... (remanufactured that didn't have the psi it needed).. all were replaced, except for #6.

Question is: I've lost power... finally got the vehicle to continually run.. but it has no power. If vehicle tries to change gears, you almost litteraly have to take your foot off the gas, but only goes into about 2 gears. If you can get it up to like 35, it will maintain that speed until you hit a downhill slope and then can maintain that speed until the next hill; it then will slow back down to about 25-35 mph. Have any ideas what may be causing this. I've lost all faith in my mechanic, he's had it for over 4-1/2 weeks again.

I didn't seem to have problems with power until this wire was clipped... Could this also be my problem?

Check the exhaust sytem for restrictions, sound like the converter bed is has broken up and pieces are clogging the exhaust, choking the engine. Remove one of the 02 sensors before the converter, attach a pressure gauge, anything over 1.5-2.0 psi means your system is blocked.

Engine Performance problem
2002 Chevy Blazer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

Engine is missing and lacks power. Seems to be worse during warmer days and when air conditioner is on.

Engine performace problems can be caused by many different factors. The first clue may be given by the ECM. If the "check engine" light is on then you should have a code reader plugged in and see why it is on. This may point you in the right direction. However there are a few things you can check that are pretty quick and painless. 1 - make sure air filter is clean and not clogged, 2 - check plug gap, 3 - check plug wires for arcs. Based on the limited information you provided I would start with these and go from there. Some of the more complex problems it may be is a bad fuel injector, bad O2 sensors, engine wear... I hope this helps!