Your best bet is to have it towed to a reputable shop, have them diagnose the problem and repair the vehicle. If you don't have a working knowledge of the vehicles' computer system, you'll just be "throwing" parts at it until if runs. I'm not trying to be a smart-a$$, but you could replace a $$$computer, then other components, when the problem may be a bad ground wire. I admire you wanting to save money and repair the vehicle, but without the proper tools and diagnostic charts, it's darn near impossible.

If the engine has no spark, check for voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on.

If there is voltage, the problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, ignition module or primary wiring circuit).

If there is NO voltage at the coil, the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit).

If the coil has voltage, the problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor, hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon tracks inside the distributor cap or on the rotor.

If you have a scan tool, plug it into the vehicle diagnostic connector and look for an rpm signal when cranking the engine. No signal? The problem is either a bad distributor pickup (on engines with a distributor), a stripped distributor drive gear (common with plastic gears), a bad crankshaft position sensor (on engines without a distributor), a wiring fault (broken or shorted wire, or a loose or corroded wiring connector).Fcar F3-W can diagnose all kinds of petrol control systems quickly and easily.Details for it:
http://www.fcardiagnostictools.com/obd2/1-f3-w-world-cars.html

start with basics, compression first.

Roy