Vacuum Leak - Engine vacuum diagram

This will help. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

No it did not help. I have provided a picture. I hope this might be more helpful.

Little close where does big hose go? is vacuum on open port? is there aloose hose ? was work being done and hose left off? what location on engine?

The large hose goes to the brake booster. The family of the car moved from a different state and had work done there. I found the air leak that was triggering the p0171 code and part of a degraded hose still attach around the part. I have not been able to locat where that hose may have gone, or found a hose that was open somewhere else. The first picture is the part disconnected from the intake manifold, the second is a side picture.

O.K. port is not used so no hose to find. Get a cap for it that was what was left without top. Port used to attach test EQ

Thanks I appreciate your help. I did cap it off.

Look for an evaporator canister. That needs a vacuum supply.

Noises problem
1997 Buick Lesabre 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 47.000 miles

Hi .My car makes very laud noises and i thought i have problem with transmission.After checking out transmission i was tald it has vacuum leak.while car is running if i pull out oil check stick out noise will stop an seems like air goes in to the engine.how i find out where is the problem.Any help appreciate.thank you

it was pcv valve.pcv valve was missing rubber around it .that was the reason check engine was showing egr valve ,missfiring and air leak,+very loud noise.hope this help someone in future

Main problem car is shuddering and hesitating while driving at any speed. Most people I spoke with does concur that is sounds like the MAF sensor and/or vacuum leak somewhere, but here are more facts that found out today. I think the individual at the auto part store was using the wrong type of scanner for the year of my car. I took it and a mechanic to see why it would scan..of course this was before I just found out I could check it myself. In any case..he seem to think either a bad ECU or the code for crank sensor is legit. According him the ECU is more expensive but an easy fix and the crank sensor was less expensive but harder to get to. however,just further investigation I seem to have a coolant leak which got on to wires and such and perhaps out the exhaust. My question to you gentlemen now is what is your opinion on this assessment and what exactly could in fact be damaged by this coolant and could this cause all the problems I explained previously. Will there be other problems forth coming with this and what should be the solution and estimated cost for repairs..don't want to be took on this one and finally what is the best and the worst case scenario here? Thanks again gentlemen for your replies.

Try and have it rescanned and get back with any code/s that popped-up-Your posibilities could be one of the follwoing below that will cause your problem.

Could be caused by one of the following below

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Crankshaft position sensor
Knock sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing.