over but wont start

Relay 428 should have have power at 87 when the key is turned on. The relay is controlled by 85 & 86. Battery power all the time at 30 should feed 87 when the relay is closed.

This guide should help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Thomas

Thank you for this post I followed the guide and found out my fuel pump was bad cost me $213.00 all fixed! I love this site.

car died on freeway almost just like the key was turned off now it wot start there's no spark change fuel pump changed crankshaft sensor and still no spark. when scanned no codes come up just like it won't read it

So are you using a basic code reader ?Also does it say no codes on the code reader or does it even link up to the car?

I plugged it in and got nothing. I. Know the scanner works because my car has read codes before. I was told it maybe my ecu so I checked the pins on the ecu and got no readins on small and large cinnectors. Also when the key Iis, in the ignition and I turn it the check engine light comes on for a couple of seconds then fades out. This is without turning the engine over. I found that odd. I have been without a car fior five weeks now. No way to get to work so I lost my job. Ouch! Need car running for oily can get back to work. Please, please help. Thank you

Have you checked all the fuses yet?

Yes I have checked all fuses and they are good.

So the code reader wont even power on off the obd2 connector?If not thats the first thing that must be fixed.Its fuse number 12 its a 7.5 amp fuse all it powers is power to that obd2 connector make sure there is power to both sides of that fuse.

I just checked the number 12 fuse the fuse is good all my fuses are good it just won't read codes might be electrical or the computer. Were gonna have to diagnose the vehicle without a scanner

Car was running. Had to change water pump. Trouble getting timing belt right. Car would start right up then die in 15 min. Then changed the belt again. Car starts runs but needs timing adj. Finally car will not start at all. Get P0322. No spark. did LED light on coil connector on 2 and 3 no blinking light while tturning over starter. Book says look for broken wire to coil? No broken wire visible. terms 1 and 4 and 1 and 2 have 12 volts per book.

First let me say I am NOT a VW mech, but have found info on your code,
Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor G28 , checking NOTE: Use only gold-plated terminals when servicing terminals in the electrical harness connector of the Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor G28. • Special tools, testers and auxiliary items required Multimeter. • Wiring diagram. • Test requirements Fig. 76: Identifying Main Fuse Panel Courtesy of VOLKSWAGEN UNITED STATES, INC. The Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) J220 fuses OK. • Battery voltage at least 12.5 volts. • All electrical consumers such as, lights and rear window defroster, switched off. • Vehicles with automatic transmission, shift selector lever into position "P" or "N". • A/C switched off. • Ground (GND) connections between engine/transmission/chassis OK. • Ignition switched off. • Test procedure Perform a preliminary check to verify the customers complaint. Refer to → Generic Scan Tool (GST) Manual Contents • Start diagnosis Function The Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor G28 detects RPM and reference marks. Without an engine speed signal, the engine will not start. If the engine speed signal fails while the engine is running, the engine will stop immediately. Function test Connect the scan tool. • Switch the ignition on. • Using the scan tool, check the engine speed: • End diagnosis and switch ignition off. • If the specified value was not obtained: Checking internal resistance Fig. 77: Identifying Engine Speed Sensor G28 Electrical Harness Connector Courtesy of VOLKSWAGEN UNITED STATES, INC. Disconnect the Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor G28 electrical harness connector - arrow -. • Fig. 78: Checking Engine Speed Sensor G28 Terminals 2 To 3 For Resistance Courtesy of VOLKSWAGEN UNITED STATES, INC. Using a multimeter , check the Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor G28 terminals - 2 to 3 - for resistance. • Specified value: 480 to 1000 Ω (at approx. 20°C) Check Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor G28 terminals 1 to 2 and 1 to 3 for short circuits. • Specified value: ∞ (infinity) If any of the specified values are not obtained: Replace the Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor G28. Refer to 13 - ENGINE - CRANKSHAFT, CYLINDER BLOCK • If the specified values are obtained: Checking wiring If the manufacturers test box is being used, perform the following step. Install the Adapter Cable (121-pin) VAG1598/31. Refer to 24 - MULTIPORT FUEL INJECTION (MFI) . • If the manufacturers test box is not being used, perform the following step. Remove the Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) J220. Refer to → Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) J220 , Replacing . • Fig. 79: Identifying 3-Pin Harness Connector Terminals Courtesy of VOLKSWAGEN UNITED STATES, INC. Using a Multimeter , check the Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor G28 electrical harness connector T3 terminals to the Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) J220 electrical harness connector T121 terminals for an open circuit. • Specified value: 1.5 Ω Max. If the specification was not obtained: Check the wiring for a short circuit to each other, Battery (+), or Ground (GND). • Check the electrical harness connector for damage, corrosion, loose or broken terminals. • If necessary, Repair the faulty wiring connection. • If no malfunction is detected in the wiring: Remove the Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor G28 and check the sensor wheel for proper seating, damage and run-out. Refer to 13 - ENGINE - CRANKSHAFT, CYLINDER BLOCK . Replace if damaged. • If the sensor wheel is OK: Erase the DTC memory. Refer to → Diagnostic Mode 04: Reset/delete diagnostic data . • Perform a road test to verify Repair. • If the DTC does not return: Repair complete, Generate readiness code. Refer to → Readiness Code . End diagnosis. • If the DTC does return and no malfunction is detected in the wiring and the voltage supply was OK: Replace the Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) J220. Refer to → Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) J220 , Replacing . • Assembly is performed in the reverse of the removal. • Final procedures After the Repair work, the following work steps must be performed in the following sequence: Check the DTC memory. 1. If necessary, erase the DTC memory. Refer to Diagnostic Mode 04: Reset/delete diagnostic data . 2. If the DTC memory was erased, generate readiness code. Refer to Readiness Code . 3. End of diagnosis.

So is there power on both sides of the number 12 fuse ?Also does the code reader power up off the obd2 connector? Is there power at the number 16 pin of the obd2 connector? These are all important questions to see if the computer might not be working.Iam not there to check these thing's myself and iam really trying to help you.

hi again sorry its taking so long to get back to you and I checked both things that you told me to check there is power to both sides of the number 12 fuse and also the number 16 pin I got a reading of 12.32

I really appreciate your help. I will be so happy when I find out what's wrong with this car and get it back on the road. thank you

So does the code reader power up off the obd2 connector?

The scanner says that there is no communication. Could this maybe be due to the chip in my key or maybe s bad computer?

Even when all keys are lost on the vws and I have to code a brand new key I can still read the computers just cant start the car till I code the new key.So you could a bad power or ground to the computer. Which engine do you have?

Its 1.8 turbo. What do you recommend I do next? Please help

If no bad grounf is found should I try a new computer and if yes I found one on ebay with the ecact number s the one in the car. Since the numbers are the same can I get away with having it programmed by professional?

Your going to want to get the used one programmed with the correct vin calibration for your exact car etc.You have to make sure the grounds and powers to the computer are good.Have you checked the crankshaft position sensor yet?

Yes I have replaced the crankshaft sensor, fuel pump and fuel pump relay so you have any idea how much they charge for programming one and is your guess a bad computer?

A hour labor to program the computer the price would depend on the labor rate.I dont guess your going to have to check your powers and grounds.So your check engine doesnt come on and stay on with the key in run position.

The check engine light comes on for a second and quickly fades away

The scan tool you have to check codes does it only turn on when you plug it into the car?I trying to figure out if you have power and ground to the connector on the car?

the other day getting on the freeway my car died at going 30 miles and I are the car will not start and it seems the battery will not hold a charge I've changed the fuel pump the crankshaft sensor and still but will not start please help

Have you checked for codes in the computer? Also have you checked for spark or see of you have spark?Or tried popping the intake tube off the throttle body and spray some carb spray into the throttle body then put the tube back on and see if it starts for a few seconds?

2.0L GLS New Beetle won't start. Cranks just fine, but won't catch. Spark is fine, no codes, check engine speed sensor and read 960 ohms (in spec according to Chiltons.) Fuel pump is gettign +12VDC at harness when cranking, but can't hear pump run, and no fuel is delivered to fuel rail (disconnected supply line from regulator to verify.) Pulled fuel pump/sender assembly from tank and check all wiring in the assembly; continuity is good. Pump itself reads ~1.0 ohm, and when hooked up to a battery, runs vigorously and moves water well. Only strange thing is that whenit runs, the little +-shaped hole next to the negative connection tab(right side of included picture) spurts fluid along with the discharge. Is this an acceptable condition? Do I need to replace the pump, or just put it back together and hope it works? Should i flush the pump with gasoline before putting it back in the system?

I would say replace it at this point it is out. The only way to know if it is truely bad it do a fuel pressure test with everything put back together. So it is your call but I would replace it.

I have a VW 2002 disel beetle and this afternoon I was driving out of a parking lot and as I change to third gear from second the speed excelerated in only a few seconds up for 80-90 km/hour by itself. The rpms were all the way up to 5 and past 5. I put the car into neutral and put the breaks on and the rpms were still up very high and the car was filled with smoke aswell as the outside of the car and then a shut off the car. My engine did not start anymore and I had to get it towed from an intersection to my house.

Since 2012, I got the heater fixed, all brakes routers, etc, I got 3 glow plugs replaced but the 4th one was seized and I didn't have enough money at the time so therefore the check engine time stayed on, and i got a new battery about 3 weeks ago when the origional died on me. My plan was to sell it next month but i did not make it there. I have an idea of what is wrong becuase if any standard car was excelorating their maximum rpms in third gear and going 90km an hour the engine probabl blew up per say. Please help!

You need to check to see if the engine is locked up. Use a breaker bar on the crankshaft to see if it will turn.

Sounds like your engine sucked-up oil from the intercooler and then the engine "ran away" (the oil acted as fuel).

You will have engine damage and will need serious repairs. Used engine install will be the quickest & cheapest option.

Eveey time I try to start my car a ring goes off like an alarm how can I get it to start again without having to take it to a shop I need the car running asao so that my wife can get to work and back o need to know the exact issue because I'm doing this ar home and I did try to unplug the battery for an hour but It didn't seem to work I tryed looking at fuses but nothing seemed to help

Record a video with your cellphone or camera and then post the video on YouTube for free.

Post the link here so we can see and hear what is happening.

Thomas

If you need to email the video, you can find my email via my YouTube channel.

http://www.youtube.com/user/ExoVCDS

Thomas

Any codes, have you run a scan as yet?

My car will starts fine when you turn the key fully
clockwise, but after engine starts and you release key
engine stalls. put computer reader on shows no code faults.

Is there a flashing car icon lit up in the dash? Sounds like the Immobilizer (VW theft system) is not recognizing the key.
If you do not have a spare key, it will have to be programmed at the dealer.

Due to stupidity, I added a gallon of antifreeze to the oil system. The car has not been started or run since I performed this stunt. Can I flush the system to get the antifreeze out, and if so, how? I know I will have to also change the filter again.

Remove the oil plug, drain completly and change the filter, Get twice the oil and two filters, do two oil changes, run the engine for 15-20 mins and change oil again. DO NOT under any circumstances start the engine in this condition!