transmission problems

Have you checked the shifter linkages or the cable? it might have come loose or is adjusted incorrectly. It must be exactly in the gear detent when the shifter is in gear for the transmission to engage properly.Also, check the fluid level.

I just started having problems with the gears. As I shift to "D", the car stays still as if it was in neutral. I shift down to "3rd" gear, I can feel the transmission locking the gear. I then shift it back to "D" gear and everything is normal. The transmission seems to be running good once on the road. Would this be the shift box or major transmission problem?

Hi mezavic,

Most probably the shift linkages need some attention. Something is loose somewhere or out of adjustment.

my check engine light is on and the tranmission will not shift out of low and reverse hits hard

Have the computer PCM/TCM scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on. Autozone will scan it for free

Hi. I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Montero Limited (Full Size) Where exactly is the Transmission Drain Bolt located? I would like to do a maintenance Transmission fluid change. Can I just do a drain and refill with the Montero like what I do with our Honda Prelude and Honda CRV?

Thanks.

I am wanting to do the same to my Montero.
Have you had any luck.

Thanks

Hi Prelude2244, edwincas,

The drain plug is at the bottom of the trans oil sump at the centre of the vehicle.

That is for the ATF.

At the transfer there is another drain plug for the transfer gear oil which is not ATF.

You can do the oil change yourself but remember to use the correct fluid as recommended.

If the ATF is too bad in condition, I would recommend a filter change together, which would require the sump to be removed.

Thanks for the quick reply.

I drained the fluid out the bottom pan in the center of the vehicle as you advised. The fluid was rather dark which I suspected. Should I just replace the fluid thru the dipstick valve or would you recommend something different?
To be honest I am kind of confused when you mentioned transfer gear oil. I just wanted to change the trans fluid as I could feel it needed it but if there is more to it for this vehicle please let me know.

Thanks Again,

Edwin

Hi edwincas,

Just draining out from the bottom pan would only replace about 40 % of the fluidin the system.

If not you did not replace the filter, keep the next replacement period shorter.

Filling is through the dipstick.

Check level again after warming up and if you do any oil or fluid change, it is better to have the engine warmed up before doing it.

Thanks again for your informative reply.

Would it be best to drain all the fluid out? How would I be able to do that myself?

Also, I saw that ATF +4 is supposed to work for Mitsubishi vehicles. Would I be okay using this or should I only buy from the dealer?

How difficult is it to change the filter?
Should I be concerned at all about the transfer gear oil?

Thanks Again,

Edwin

Hi edwincas,

I would stick with whatever fluid the manufacturer wants.

To replace the filter you need to remove the oil pan, then the filter and replace the pan with new gaskets. Do not overtighten the bolts, it will cause the pan to distort and leak.

Of course it would be best if you can drain out all the fluid, but don't lose sleep over it because it is impossible to get everything out.

The transfer and the differential gear oils normally last longer than the ATF and has less cause for concern unless the vehicle is used under extreme conditions.

Heres a guide on doing a transmission service. Not vehicle specific, but it will give you an idea of what you are in for

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-service-an-automatic-transmission

my check engine light is on and the transmission will not shift gears,reverse hits hardI changed the fluid and it still will not shift could it be a sensor?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on.

hello
I have a Montero sport year 2000, with an automatic transmission. The car was in a perfect condition until i made this mistake. I got stuck in sand on a beach and tried to get out with a hold mode on. Ofcourse it didn't help but i pushed really hard with RPM up to 6000. After i got on a highway and drove about 50 miles, this rattling "trrrrr" sound appeared on low load. No noise on idle neither on heavy load. I drove about 1500 miles since it started. It didn't seen to get worse until just today when a transmission liquid hose got disconnected somehow and i lost a gallon of it alond the road. Conected it back again and my friend brought me AFT liquid and i filled it up. The noise seems to get worse and more often.

I wonder what it might be and if i need to fix this soon.

Thank you

Not sure if it is the same, but my wifes montero sport used to rattle at around 35-40 mph under no load. The problem ended up being related to the torque converter. There were 2 solutions that I found. 1 was to have the trasmission flushed and refilled with a certain tramsmission fluid. (which could be why it got worse when you put the new flluid in, could have been wrong type) The second solution (and the one I tried and worked for me) was to put a tube of Dr Trannys instant sudder fixx in the transmission. It has been 8 months since I put the sudder fixx in and no more rattle. I cant remember what type of fluid they said to refill it with if you decide to go with the flush and fill method. I just remember it was a very specific type. So dont let them just refill it with any old fluid. Hope this helps.

i have a 2000 mits. montero sport and lately its very hard to shift into gear,it seems that the gear its frozen i really have to pull it hard to go in 1 2 3 or n its hard to switch to any of them.can you help me out with an idea. thanks

Hi there,

I would get this inspected by a trans specialist ASAP, as if there is a problem with in the transmission selector you may be doing more damage forcing it into gears.

mark (mhpautos)

thank you

I live on a very "hilly" island and my vehicle is a typical "island jeep" (jeep being the generic term for SUV). When I started the car this morning, it started immediately, just fine, but when I put it in reverse to leave my driveway, it took a few seconds to actually "engage" into reverse and then again, when I put it in drive, it took a moment before it "caught" and I was able to accelerate away. On the way home after work today, I was accelerating uphill and it started "stuttering" and the RPMs dropped to 0 and the car stalled. It started again, without any problem, but when I put it into drive, it did the same "stutter and the RPMs jumped up and down until it stalled yet again. Driving home up a rather steep hill (it was now dark) it was stuttering and each time the RPMs dropped the lights dimmed and I was keeping the same steady pressure on the accelerator. Is this my transmission??? It sure would be too pricey to replace the transmission in this very old vehicle (but, admittedly, I have no idea what the "going rate" would be for a new transmission anyway -- and here on a small Caribbean island, vehicle repairs are much pricier than in the US!). I hope you can at least tell me what this issue could be! (Maybe something as inexpensive as a fuel filter replacement???). Thanks so much for your help!

Most of what you described has nothing to do with the transmission. Based on the dimming lights, I'd suspect the charging system first, but the lights will also dim when the engine stalls for other reasons. If this is a charging problem, you'll have to catch it while it's acting up to have the tests be of value. Intermittent problems are most often due to worn brushes, but on most vehicles it's much easier to just replace the entire generator.

The diagnostic fault codes should be read and recorded too. If the engine is stalling intermittently due to a failing sensor, there will usually be a fault code related to that if the problem acts up long enough for the Engine Computer to detect it.