there is no part number for the bearing cap. it is only service with the case. thats why you need a trans.

i suggest a juk yard for a case or a trans shop for a case. it may be cheaper than buying a new unit

Roy

I STARTED LOOKIN'

HARD TO DO WITHOUT THE "EXACT #s FOR THE TYPE TRANNY YOU HAVE

HECK......I DON'T EVEN KNOW IF ITS A "MANUAL" OR AN "AUTOMATIC"

THIS IS AS FAR AS I GOT

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/Mitsubishi.html

THE MEDIC

I realized after posting the question that I had forgotten to say that it's an AUTOMATIC. WHAT NUMBER DO YOU NEED? I can get it from my mechanic first thing Monday morning.

the case number will help us but there is no number for the bearing cap.

roy

also, get us the production date of the car

Roy

Would the VIN HELP? Or other parts numbers from the bearing for example?

Is the production date located on the title or a sticker on the car somewhere?

Looks like the case number on the diagram, exploded view the gave me as a ref. is 45240.

Also, they said that the "last 8" numbers on the VIN were important, they are... 1U223096. Does that help?

no vin, date is on drivers door post. number of case is on the trans

Roy

thats for dealer parts, we have no acess to that

Roy

And yes, to my surprise, I discovered that this is a Mitsubishi engine would perhaps Mitsubishi be able to help find this part or the case with this piece in it. That would be less than a new Oro even a rebuilt tranny. Yes?

I'll get that info then when they open first thing Monday morning! 8am pacific time.

OKAY

CJ MEDEVAC AGAIN........IMMA JEEP CJ KINDA GUY, UP ON THE OLDER STUFF, NOT TOO MUCH INTO THE NEWER STUFF........I CAN "SEARCH" WELL, AND AM VERY MECHANICAL.......JUST NEED TO GET MY NOSE ON THE TRAIL

LET'S REVIEW A TAD

" the discovered that a plastic retainer inside a bearing race (differential bearing) was broken. They ordered that new bearing and when the removed the "differential bearing retaining cap" (their description, not mine, although it seems right) it came apart in two pieces( it's supposed to be one solid piece ) "

WE TALK ABOUT A "PLASTIC RETAINER".......AND THEN A "DIFF BEARING RETAINING CAP"

ARE THESE .....TWO ......SEPARATE BROKE THINGEES?......OR IS THE RETAINING CAP PLASTIC???????

JUST TO GET ON TRACK WITH WHAT I'M GONNA BE LOOKIN ' FOR

I GRABBED A PIC AND CIRCLED A PART------MY PIC IS THE REAR WHEEL DRIVE VERSION OF WHAT "THEY" CRAMMED INTO A SMALL CASE AND INCLUDED A TRANSMISSION AS WELL IN YOUR CAR

THEN THEY PROBABLY TURNED IT ALL SIDEWAYS TOO

.............WHICH BRINGS UP ANOTHER QUESTION

IS THIS "ONE OF A PAIR?"

IS IT THE ONE .......UP FRONT?....AT THE REAR?.....DRIVER'S SIDE (LEFT HAND DRIVE)?....OR PASSENGER SIDE?

IT MIGHT BE POSSIBLE IT'S A "MIRROR IMAGE" OF IT'S MATE?....MADE L OR R

OR IS IT AN "EXACT TWIN" OF ITS MATE AND THEY ARE 100% INTERCHANGEABLE?....EVEN "FLIP-ABLE"?

THE MEDIC

thats what i think he needs CJ. have to get the case for that as it is line bored to the case.

Roy

SOMETIMES.......THE GOOFBALL GUY GETS LUCKY AND WINDS UP WITH THE BEAUTY QUEEN

OR EVEN AN OLD DOG GETS A BONE EVERY NOW AND THEN

I DID WELL IN A SIMILAR SITUATION............SEE WHERE I "PIPED IN" ON PAGE 1 OF THIS POST

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1968-chevrolet-camaro-need-help-drive-train-issues-believe-clutch-transmission-im

SINCE THE OTHER HALF OF THE CIRCLE IS IN THE CASTING

IF THE REPLACEMENT IS A BIT TOO SMALL---MAYBE SOME SHIM MATERIAL TO BUILD UP BETWEEN THE FACES SO IT SEATS FLAT W/ NO TENSION ON THE "BAND" OR THE 90 DEGREE TURN AT THE BOLT ?

SHOULD IT BE TOO BIG---"FIGURE 8s" ON SOME AGGRESSIVE SANDPAPER--TILL YOU GET CLOSE---THEN GO A LITTLE MILDER W/ THE GRIT

EVEN THE LINE BORING IS SO PRECISE WITH ROBOTS AND AUTOMATION---MIGHT BE A PERFECT FIT WITH NO MODIFYING NEEDED

LIKE THEY ALWAYS TOLD US IN THE 1ST RANGER BATTALION..."IF YOU AIN'T CHEATIN'.....YOU AIN'T TRYIN'!

THE MEDIC

Can you post a picture of the of the new part? Some bearings comes it two pieces and is that a needle bearing?

Good morning... Some great insight, I'll try and answer all questions as best I can...

First - the case number is UYOCD 371024
And the production date is SEPT 1, 2000

Now to the questions you asked:

@CJM: The plastic retainer, holds the bearings in place in the race . That is one piece. order new bearings and remove the broken one. When they removed the cap (piece I included pictures of) it came out in two pieces(should be one). This piece is metal, appears to be aluminum but not certain.

Your diagram circled part looks VERY simalur. Only my part has a "tag" or "wing" on it, which if I recall correctly is a stop for something else, something rests against that. But yes the part you circled does most likly do the same thing.

Also, yes it's turned sideways, this cap goes over the bearing on the differential side. KHL is correct, it's bored to the case where this part is one piece the bolts down over the bearing and the other half is in the casting as you mentioned.

Have I missed any questions?

Is bearing similar to type shown? You need not get OEM part numbers. Go the shops where they sell bearings and they should be able to get you the correct part.

No, I have the replacement bearings. The cap (pictured) is what I'm trying to find, that has no OEM part number because, so I'm told, it's part of the case, even though its clearly a seperate part. This is my challenge, without a part number, no one seems to know where to look for it. But, I can't imaging there isn't a way to get a replacement piece as I'm sure I'm not the only one that has had this metal piece break.

I'd even be willing to buy a case or used transmission (not rebuild) as long as it has this piece in tact. So I can replace the broken one.

I've checked most of the locat pick-a-part houses and none have a 2001 TIB in their inventory list.

Does that help at all?

The bearing cone should come together with the bearing as an assy and it is surprising that this is not so. Bring the housing and bearing to a shop specialising in bearings, they might be able to help.

The piece I'm looking for is part of the housing, not part of the bearing assy. This piece, marrys to the housing, holds the bearing in place and the bearing race, spins between the two parts, the piece I'm looking for on top and the other half of the circle molder into the housing. My mech. Has the new bearings, however, this "cap" being referred to by my mech. as the "differential bearing cap" is the broken part I'm trying to locate.

As you can see from the photos I included, it's clearly a separate piece, that connects around the bearing to its other half round shape in the housing.

I did not see any photos and if it is the bearing cap that you are referring to, the half-moon as commonly known, you need to replace the complete housing. This part cannot be purchased separately and is housing specific. The cap is machined for each individual housing and are not interchangeable.

In that case, do you know where I can buy the housing, order it and have it shipped? Do dealers carry the housing?

This should be dealer parts only and you are not going to like the price but since you are not able to get any used parts, you might have to bite the bullet. Did you try any of your local salvage yards for a used unit?

Yes, I checked all the local yards inventory lists, none had a 2001 TIB, listed.

Too bad you need to look for alternative source or go to the dealer.

I UNDERSTAND THE "LINE BORED" THING---I ALSO UNDERSTAND YOU DO WHAT YOU GOTTA DO

I'M PRETTY SURE THIS PART AND ITS MATING SURFACE JUST "SQUEEZE" THE RACE AND HOLD IT IN PLACE......THE ACTUAL BEARING IS TRAVELING ON THE INSIDE OF THE RACE

YOU KNOW, I TOOK MACHINE SHOP IN HIGH SCHOOL AND ALSO WORKED AT A PERFORMANCE ENGINE AND BALANCING SHOP........MOSTLY AS THE TEAR DOWN AND CLEAN FELLER....BUT I DID GET IN A LITTLE MACHINING AND BALANCING TOO

I'M NOW TALKING ABOUT A "MACHINE SHOP" IN GENERAL....NOT AN AUTOMOTIVE TYPE

THESE GUYS CAN REPLICATE STUFF, NOW DAYS, THAT EXCEED THE STANDARDS OF THE ORIGINAL PART

WHO CARES IF THE THING IS MADE OF STEEL---OR ALUMINUM?..........STEEL WON'T "POP INTO"

MAYBE IF YOU TOOK BOTH THE BROKE ONE AND THE "STILL GOOD ONE" IN FOR AN ESTIMATE----IT COULD VERY CLOSELY BE "COPIED" OUT OF A METAL THAT WON'T SNAP INTO

DEPENDENT ON YOU LOVE FOR THIS RIG AND HOW LONG IT WILL BE PART OF THE FAMILY---HAVE 'EM MAKE BOTH SIDES----IT MIGHT EVEN BE EZier FOR THEM AS THEY COULD BOLT THE 2 PARTS TOGETHER AND GET A VERY CLOSE "CENTER POINT" AS THE MACHINE THE HOLE IN THE CENTER OF THEM

I COULD REALLY SEE "CRITICAL-NESS" IF THIS WERE THE MAINS ON AN ENGINE BLOCK---AS FAR AS BEING PERFECTLY "INLINE" WITH THE OTHER HOLES AND NOT SO "OUT OF ROUND" AS TO DISTORT THE BEARING MATERIAL.....THUS LOCKING DOWN ON THE CRANK, NOT ALLOWING IT TO TURN

THIS SITUATION WE HAVE NOW----ARE BASICALLY "ENGINE MOUNTS" TO HOLD A HARDENED RACE IN PLACE.........AND HALF OF THE EQUATION IS STATIONARY, AS THEY ARE PART OF THE CASE, AND CANNOT MOVE

THIS MIGHT COST A CHUNK.....BUT IT MIGHT BE CHEAPER THAN OTHER ROUTES


OTHER THAN THAT I STARTED A SEARCH FOR NATIONALLY COMPUTER CONNECTED AUTO SALVAGE YARDS

THERE ARE MANY PLACES TO LOOK AT----HERE'S JUST ONE

http://autoandparts.com/

THE MEDIC