interior fuse box

Here are two guides to help you test the relay and fuse using the diagrams below to see the fuse panel location and identification.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers

radio and clock stopped working. where are fuses located? or what else might be the problem?

under hood fuses and relay box
near the battery

thanks... found that one but none are labelled radio or clock... would be be labelled something else?

Check Memory fuse
use a test light check all fuses too

i cant find the fuse box on my 2001 dodge caravan sport where is it i look under the dash on the driver side but not there,i need to find the fuse for the radio

The closest service manual I have is for a 2002 model which should be the same. The fuses are part of the Integrated Power Module under the hood. Fuse 14, a 15 amp is for the radio's memory circuit but removing it will also affect the Front Control Module. Fuse 5, a 20 amp, feeds the radio switched circuit from the accessory relay.

This is the grand caravan. It over heats at idle. Fans run ok when jumped to the battery. Relay is not in the fuse box with the other relays nor is it in the dash. I checked the connection from the wireing harness to the fan wires and they look ok. cannot find the relay .

under driver side headlight assembly

yesterday I used my Caravan to drive to and from the grocery store (2 miles total). A few hours later I used a mini-compressor in the power outlet to blow up a tire on my lawn tractor (1 minute). Later in the evening my kids came in to tell me the car was clicking and the windshield wipers (not used that day) were in the upright position on the windshield. The clicking was coming from the fuse/relay center box. I disconnected the battery and the clicking stopped. I jump started the battery which got the interior lights to come on a little and clicking started again. After swaping two of the fuses around the one was still clicking. What could the problem be. Is there a way for me to get the car started long enough to get to repair shop?

Touch each relay find the clicker remove. Here is a guide to help you check the relay with the fuse panel and relay locations below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Hey guys,
I have a Grand Caravan. My wife had been using the van and had parked between errands for about 30 minutes and came back out to find that the van would not start. I came home and began to review the situation. With the driver side door open and no keys in the ignition, Relay 13 in the under dash junction box was clicking constantly. Putting the keys in the ignition did not help. Once the key is turned to the start position, nothing happens. With the key set in the on position but not continuing to the start position first, the clicking continues and there are no dash lights,gauges, radio, HVAC CTRL, dome light, head lights, turn signals, horn, etc.... The oil indicator is about the only dash light that is on when the key is in the on position ( it is dull like not enough power). The temp and fuel gauge seem to register for about a second with the key turned to the on position and then settle back to baseline. As analysis went on, the problem got worse. The relay started making more of a buzzing/whining noise. When I pulled it, two relays in the under hood PDC started clicking. They were the Low beam relay and park lamp relay. Pulling either one did not stop the other from chattering. Sometimes all three relays would be clicking. If I put the key to the start position and let it settle back to the run position, all clicking stops until I turn the key to the on or off position. If I press the brake pedal, all clicking stops. It starts immediately upon letting off the brake again. The interior light seems to be on sometimes but always dull. At one point (but only once) when I turned the key to the auxillary position (1/4 turn backward) everything internally seemed to get full power. The dome light came on bright, the radio and dash lit up, I heard the HVAC damper open, etc... Can anyone point me int he right direction to start fixing this?

It sounds like the battery is dead but to confirm the issue check out this guide https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test According to the under dash junction box diagram I have, Relay 13 is for the Courtesy Lamp.

I'm just getting back to work on the vehicle so I'll check the battery and cables today. Here is a guide and some diagrams I found for the fuse box (below) https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse Check out below.

Wow... you couldn't have written a better description of MY problem... I'll test the battery, the cables etc... same relay #13, also, when I turn the key on or turn on a dome light the clicking stops... really strange... This is an exact description of my problem. Battery and cables are fine. Could it be the ECM? This is an old thread, but some of us would like to drive our old vans.

Additional oddities, when the switch is off, no key in the ignition the relay is rattling. This rattle has slight changes in frequency. Turn the key to the "on" position and the gauges move up and down about 30 degrees in rhythm with the rattling.

I am having the same issue as well. The last relay on the right just above the fuses makes a fast clicking sound when the key is not in the ignition. If I just keep this relay out, will the van still operate fine with the exception of whatever it controls (courtesy lamp?)? Something just keeps draining the battery, and the battery and the alternator test OK. Has anyone gotten any resolution? Thanks for your help.

Hey All,

Here are the fuse panel locations and description layouts for you caravan.

I have also included the wiring diagrams to show you what all is connected to each fuse.

Check the condition of the battery cables and connections. Clean them if necessary. It also seems that you may have an open in the ignition switch, which explains the lack of cranking and no lights with the key in the "on" position.

Please let us know happens so it will help others.

Best, Ken

A good thing to check are the ground wires under the battery tray. There are 3 of them that share the same ground spot. Also check the ground wires at the block. On a 2000 town and country the connection is on the drivers side, right beside the bracket for the transmission dip stick. Clean those up giving them a good connections will help eliminate allot of inconsist problems. I did this and my battery stop draining.along with a huge array of minor issues that will drive you crazy trying to find cause.

Thanks for this post I had this problem the battery was bad FYI

I replaced my battery and when I put the cables back on the "Auto Shutdown Relay" clicked. The clicking sounded louder with the key in the ignition and continued after the key was removed. Only disconnecting the battery stops the click (which starts again when the key is turned).

I had to replace a broken terminal. When I read the box it came in the instructions say to reconnect the terminal connected to the solenoid first. I'm guessing this is the positive (red), which is also connected to this relay box.

Any ideas on how to stop the relay spaz and get my van back to normal?

Have you tried switching the relay with a different one with the same part number?

I tried swapping relays with another of the same kind. Same result.

Yesterday on my van the starter cable that goes directly to the battery shorted and caught on fire. The cable is wrapped in the engines wiring harness. The cable burned bare pretty much the whole length and burned in half right below the fuse block. Do you think I would need to replace the whole engine wiring harness

You need to replace whatever is melted or bare. Normally the only other wire in with the battery cable is the starter solenoid wire which is about a 10-gauge wire.