2001 Chrysler Sebring ignition

Have you checked the fuses in the under hood fuse box especially the starter fuse?Those cars the solenoids fail and blow the starter fuse. If that's the case you will need a new starter.

Haven't checked it yet, it will be several hours before I get to the car. Can I reply to you then??

You sure can and I will get back to you as soon I can.

Turns out it was a 10a ignition fuse. No problems... Thanks for your assistance!

What was the number of the fuse the position number?

I'll have to check this evening at home. I'll post the answer either this evening or tomorrow a.m.

Alright keep me posted.

I apologize for the delay, busy weekend...

It was the 'starter/fuel pump' mini fuse (20a) in the fuse/relay block under the hood. Replace with new fuse and have had no further issues. Any idea what might cause it to blow??? In any event, I'm just glad it was such minor inconvenience.

If it blows while cranking the engine to start it most likely its a bad starter.I have replaced a few starters in those cars for blowing that fuse.It can be intermintant blowing the fuses.Before replacing the starter I would inspect the small trigger wire to starter for it being damaged/chaffed to make sure its not shorting out.But most likely its a bad starter.

Thanks!!

Your welcome anytime.Which engine do you have in the car?

If memory serves me correctly, it's the 2.7 L DOHC

Has the fuse blown again yet?

Nope. It's a week to the day. I'm crossing my fingers, but I've already checked on an OEM starter on RockAuto.com and it's only $73. I haven't checked on the starter wire yet as I am recovering from L shoulder surgery and not quite up to pulling out the ol' jackstands and creeper.

Alright let me know before you replace anything.

Well, it popped again yesterday morning (Thurs). I didn't get a chance to look at it, but hope to this afternoon. I replaced the fuse with one that lights when blown, but my wife said she checked the fuse block and didn't see anything though she said she didn't remember which fuse was suspect. The starter has been making quite a bit of whine after a cold start so it's probably starter time. Looks like I may have to replace it sooner rather than later... Just in time for the weekend.

Sounds like the starter especially if it sounds different then it did before.Did the fuse blow while trying to crank the engine over?Sorry I didn't get a email alert you had replied and just saw you replied.

I'm not sure. I plan to check it this afternoon provided something else doesn't come up. I can tell it's Monday!!!!!

Yeah its Mon alright lol.Keep me posted.

Okay. So it's taken me til today (Saturday) to get a chance to look at it. Fuse again. Replaced fuse started it up and put it on front tire ramps. Have brand spanking new OEM (RockAuto) starter. I thought it wouldn't be a big deal. After further (on my back lol) inspection, it appears AN ENGINE MOUNT may have to be removed!! Ack!! Please say it ain't so! I'm 6 wks into L shoulder rehab (rotator cuff) and don't think I'm up for this level of 'contorted torquing' just yet. Is there a work around. I don't have access to a lift. Furloughed civil servant...Not one of the high dollar ones either. Your advice, please?? I need to get this resoved ASAP as my daughter and husband come home on leave from HI on Tuesday. We've gotten this far... :)

Sorry to say you have to remove that front mount its not that bad I have done a few of them.You can do it on ramps or jack stands it is possible.

I assume just pick up the engine a couple of inches to get it out after removing the lower 'bell' portion of exhaust below the manifold?

You can pick up the engine a little but as for the exhaust I never did anything with that except remove the o2 sensor to get a little more room.

Hmmm. Sure doesn't sound like the case with mine. Can you tell me about the upper engine mount bolts. I can see one, maybe two,(on the transmission end of the motor) and the lower ones, of course, but are there any up under/near the exhaust manifold where the manifold bolts to the exhaust ports? I sure doesn't seem as easy as you indicate, though I also realize your experience level. The auto shop gave me a $350 labor estimate, so they must be figuring around 5 hours to do the job (well, not counting $20 worth of shop 'towels' LOL).

There is a transmission mount bolt under the hood.It really wasn't that bad once you get that mount out and remove the o2 sensor.It looks harder then it is.

The hood? Are you talking about an exhaust shield or coming at the mount from the top (under the hood)?

From the top under the hood.

Not to belabor the issue, but I'm a little confused. The starter still has to come out from the bottom of the engine right. I've found a youtube video or two, but not from the same year/model sebring... I really appreciate your advice.

Yes the Starter and the mount both cone out the bottom.I was talking about one of the engine mount bolts you get from the top under the hood.

okay, I think I'm clear as mud now. Plan to attack this with a vengance this afternoon. You have really been most helpful and patient. I will probably finish up sometime Saturday, but may contact you between now and then if I get jammed up, but naturally I don't expect immediate replies...LOL Thanks dude!! P.S. Do you happen to know what size the starter bolts are??? Just asking... stop cussing and saying "do you want me to come and do it for you"??? Ciao!!

Don't remember but I think between 13-15m wobble sockets are helpful or a wobble adapter to help get in there somewhere.

Worked about 5 hrs last nite. Got new OEM starter in. Had to remove air filter box, catalytic converter, mount and bracket, and lower oxygen sensor after disconnecting battery. One question... Original starter had a 'guide pin' in one hole. I removed it with a brass drift, but it would not fit in same hole on new starter. Pin was quite a bit larger than the hole on new starter so the new one had no guide. No pin was in the box, either. The shim plate lined up fine with the two starter bolts. Will the fact that I couldn't install the guide pin make any difference? Other than that point, it looks and fits just like the original. I haven't completed torqueing down the mount/bracket though cat converter is back in. Any suggestion for torque specs on 1) starter bolts, 2) mount bracket bolts and 3) anti vibration mount? I guess I should have taken them off using my torque wrench to get a 'back off torque value' but I was pretty beat after laying in the driveway for most of the evening...

As long as the starter lined up correctly your good.As far as torque just get everything tight an you will be fine.