My car keeps stalling out, losing power

I believe it is nothing serious. The idle control system is not functioning correctly and when the idles is excessively low, engine would stall.

Cleaning the throttle body and Idle Air Control valve should solve the problem.

See the guide below

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Thanks for replying so quickly! When the car stopped 2 days ago, I had to use my breakdown cover with the AA. The guy looked at the car & said the idle system was fine as it's ticking over with no problems. it only seems to happen after about 10mins of driving, when it's warm, I then let it cool and it will start and go for a short while. so very confused

When engine is started initially, the idling speed would be higher as the cold start system is commanded to increase the speed. As the operating increases, the cold start system would be disabled and this is when the idling speed would go down.

Under normal circumstances, the engine idling speed would be around 750 rpm and if idle air flow is reduced by restriction due to accumulated dirt inside the throttle body, especially around the area where the throttle plate closes, the idling speed would loer.

The IAC is not faulty, it is just dirty reducing the volume of air to pass through and lowering the idling speed.

You mentioned the car stopped 2 days ago, what was the problem? If the battery was disconnected, the engine computer needs to relearn and this would result in erratic idling with possibility of stalling. Some running would allow the computer to stabilise the idling speed and cleaning the throttle body and IAC would expediate the process. There are only good to be achieved by this process and no harm whatsoever.

it was the same issue two days ago. I was pulling up to lights and the engine died no coughing it took two attempts and then it started. I put petrol in it and continued. then it stalled at another set of lights and refused to start until it cooled down. battery has only been disconnected if it happens when doing an MOT

I would still suggest cleaning the throttle body and IAC

Use the guide below when it wont start to see whats missing

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

thanks you've been very helpful.

You're welcome.

My car corsa 1.4 sri 16v 2001 just over 55000 has been doing the same thing just cuts out for no reason takes a couple of attempts of ticking over to start the car bk up

Is the Malfunction Indicator Light showing?
Have you performed the tests as advised in earlier replies?

All the lights come on as if you put the key and they light to start bk up but none constant or flashing have had problems with the engine light flashing in the past went in 5 time no problem cud never ever be found hasn't been bk since havdnt done that yet will have to find a man lol I have t got a clue lol Will let u know how it goes

Engine light flashing could be due to a faulty engine computer or bad ground circuits and this has somehow been resolved without anybiody the wiser as to what had caused it. anyway you should try cleaning the throttle body and IAC first. It can only help and do no harm as air passages gets restricted over time due to accumulation of dirt.

Thanks will def give it a go

The problem comes when the engine is under normal operating temperature. What happens is the engine will stall when it is brought above 2000 RPM's. The engine will idle fine when it is at a cold start. Recently, when the added stress of the a/c compressor was added to the engine when the a/c was turned on, the engine started to die when it was at an idle from a cold start. But, when the a/c is off, it idles fine. The problem only comes when the engine is not at normal operating temperature. The car can be driven when not hot, but, what needs to be done is letting the clutch out, trying to keep the idle between 1500 and 2000 RPM and not stressing the engine over much. If it drops below 1500 and you need to push the engine to bring it up to speed, the car stalls. If the car stalls on an uphill climb, it is very difficult to get it moving again. The engine stress makes the engine stall as soon as you press the gas and begin to let the clutch out. After the car is at normal operating temperature for more than 10 minutes it will run just fine under any circumstances. It runs wonderfully after that point. The only thing I know I know for sure that occurs after the 2000 RPM mark is hit is that the turbo charger kicks on. I would go to a diagnostic clinic, but, I'm in West Africa and that kind of equipment is very difficult, if not impossible, to find here. Any idea of what changes occur after the car is at normal operating temperature that would cause a change in the engines performance? Any idea's would be greatly appreciated. I can do almost all work on the car myself, I just don't know where to look for this particular problem. Thank you for your assistance. By the way, the engine is a 1.7 L Turbo Charged Diesel.

Without diagnostic tools, it will b every difficult to figure this out.The mixture is changed by the PCM when it warms up.Is the check engine light on or has it been on during this problem?

Yes.. an indicator light does come on when the car stalls. I don't
think it is the check engine light though. I believe the check engine
light is a red engine symbol in the panel. The light that appears when
the car stalls is a little yellow symbol in the shape of a car with a
spanner wrench in the middle of it on the left hand side of the
instrument panel.

Sounds like it may be a maintenance light, but if it only comes on when it dies, that may be the check engine light which would mean the PCM has recorded a fault

the CEL on this vehicle is the standard red engine light for emmissions related faults !... the yellow light is telling you there is a fault on the electrical system .. this should be explained in the handbook .. if i remember correctly it say's electrical or immoboliser fault indication ! hope this helps ..also you need remember this is a diesel engine most generic handheld OBDII readers will not read this vehicle (before 2004) .. you will need to have this looked at by a shop/garage with vauxhall software to determine exactly where the fault lies on the monitored electrical sytems .. a genereic OBDII reader will not tell you where this fault lies even if it was petrol/gas driven, vauxhall in there infinate wisdom decided to add this little extra, so you would have to go back to them ... there is a software on the market you can now purchase ..called vauxcheck .... but you would also need a laptop/computer and an ELM connector !! hope this helps

had a corsa sxi for 6 years now, recently had a problem with the crankshaft sensor failing but has now been fixed. since i've had the car back after running for a little while the engine seems to cut out when i come to a junction, when i start it back up the engine maintnence light comes on but the car seems fine after this. even if i dnt come up to a junction and am going along at a reasonable speed the car will judder and then lose the revs then regain them, once again with the engine maintnence light coming on but it being fine after that. the oil light also comes on sometimes but the oil is full. please help???

have the vehicle plugged into a diagnostic computer to locate the cause of the fault .. check the wiring to the CKP (crank sensor) is not damaged/corroded also add a good fuel cleaner to the tank to clean the fuel lines and injectors .. hope this helps ... let me know