Gauges not working?

Did you check for voltage at the applicable fuses? Even if fuse is good, if no voltage at fuse circuit, circuit is still dead. Some fuses circuits are hot all the time, some go hot with the key on.

The wiring diagram is part of your power windows. Did you check for voltage at ptc? It goes hot with the key on. Did all problems start at the same time? You may have to check your ignition switch or wiring.

I have a 1999 Plymouth Voyager and all my gauges on the dash shut down all the time. sometimes they work and then they''ll just stop working. I've changed the fuses and that didn't fix the problem what could it be? Someone told me that it was a transmission control module going out, but that just doesn't sound right to me. Could you please help me out?

Suspect loose pins on the back of the instrument cluster. They can be soldered to the copper circuits to make a better connection.

The Electronic Automatic Transmission Controller (EATX) sends vehicle speed information to the Body Computer which sends it to the instrument cluster which is a whole nuther computer module in itself. The cluster reads that information to calculate road speed for the speedometer. A failure in the EATX can cause just the speedometer and odometer to stop working but not all of the other gauges.

1998 Plymouth Voyager 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

my gauges not working on my 98 voyager

if its all the gauges, this usually indiactes a fault in the body control module, usually a bad connection, could've became corroded from excess moisture and it corroded the connection, it has to come out and the lead of the corroded connection has to be scaped or sanded then put back in so it makes a good contact, .

the only other thing it can possibly be is the connection between the gage bezel and its input in back of it, sometimes bump after bump will pop it right out.

My gauges stop working, I have taken the dash out and put into a different van and they work find. I have changed body computer, transmission and engine computer with no luck.

Hello and thanks for donating



Have you checked the basics? The fuses and wiring should be tested to ensure the gauges are getting power. Are all lights and gauges inoperative in the cluster?

Yes I took-out fuse box and cleaned all plugs, the one under battery & under dash. The lights work in gauges, and the mileage and what gear you are lights up. But go out right back-out

If the connectors behind the instrument panel are good and tight and all other components related to the panel have been checked then the cluster itself will need replaced to fix this intermittent issue.

I have a 1998 Plymouth Voyager, 3.0 liter, V6, approx. 130,000 miles. The gauges on the dash quit working at times and sometimes come right back on and other times stay off for days. No rhyme or reason to when this happens. Error code in Haynes manual is 66. We get this code twice when we check by turning key. Transmission doesn't shift properly when gauges are out either. Took to a dealer and they replaced BCM. It worked for a couple of weeks and went out again. They CLAIM to have checked all connections. Dash lights up fine, just no gauges. Any particular connect to BCM that could be shorting it out?

No gauges work at all,speedometer,fuel or temperature

That's right. No gauges at all. The dealership has replaced the Body Control Module and that didn't fix it. Two weeks after replacing it, the gauges went our and wouldn't come back on at all. Now, they have replaced the Instrument Cluster and for now, that seems to have solved the problem, but I just picked it up 3 days ago and driven it 3 times since. We'll see.

Fuel gauge, temperature gauge, and speedometer do not work.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

I just went through three different wiring schematics and the result was the same each time. The only thing these items all have in common is the body control module, (BCM). Grounds are in different locations, so I cannot see how that is an issue.

The BCM consist of many different modules that communicate with many of the vehicle's relays and components. Its primary function is to eliminate wiring in the vehicle.

I would suggest having that component tested at a shop where the proper equipment can be found. It is not a cheap part, so I would not recommend just replacing it.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

all my gauges just stopped working and its not the fuse is there a relay for them

The instrument cluster is no longer reliable and simple gauges and lights. It is now a computer module and is very unreliable. Sometimes they develop loose connector pins that can be soldered to the copper printed circuits, but more commonly, it's just the typical failure of delicate circuitry. Newer vehicles are much worse, and they can't figure out why no one wants to buy new cars!

caradiodoc

Sometimes my gauges go off. my horn won't work, my cruise control quits. Other times it all works. There are times when my guages start off and come to life after driving awhile.

Thank you.

Hi:
It sounds like you have a short in the steering column or a bad BCM. It will need tested with the proper test equipment.

Joe

Hello Joe,

Thanks for the response to my question. I like to know something about the matter before I commit my car to any mechanic. What's a BCR and how do I go about checking it?

Thank you.

Arturo

Hi:
The BCM is the Body Control Module. I believe it's located under the driver's side kick panel. To check it requires special equipment to check. Also, the wiring in the steering column requires the steering wheel to be removed (air bag concern) and part of the steering column. It's easy to accidentally deploy the air bag, so I recommend having it done by a trained technician.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Joe

The problem started with a battery indicator light. The battery was changed out a year earlier. The light would go on after driving between 20 miles and 100 miles depending on the day. The alternator was changed and the light still comes on. Voltage was checked on battery and alternator all was good. Now as we drive the radio flickers out, and on occasion the gauges don't work. If I stop and turn the van off and back on it will usually all start working again. The ABS light comes on with the battery light also at times. Could you please help? I need to know if this problem is worth fixing or not.

[quote:e54e34a2a7="BMRFIXIT"][quote:e54e34a2a7="KLH"]Electrical problem
1997 Plymouth Voyager 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 122000 miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
The problem started with a battery indicator light. The battery was changed out a year earlier. The light would go on after driving between 20 miles and 100 miles depending on the day. The alternator was changed and the light still comes on. Voltage was checked on battery and alternator all was good. Now as we drive the radio flickers out, and on occasion the gauges don't work. If I stop and turn the van off and back on it will usually all start working again. The ABS light comes on with the battery light also at times. Could you please help? I need to know if this problem is worth fixing or not.[/quote:e54e34a2a7]

check all fuses
check wiring and loose ground
most likely its the BCM
check for codes at the BCM

instrument panel don't work and van starts then quits

It could be a couple things. I would first check to make sure the security system isn't causing a problem for you. If it is okay, then move to the ignition switch.

My gauges don't work, speedometer, odometer temp and fuel gauges stop working. First my ABS light comes on and all the gauges stop working. Then the check engine light comes on. Any one else have this problem and what could be wrong?

Most common is a weak weld at the rear of the instrument panel board
have to remove instrument panel and weld back the pins a
the plug back to the board
check for codes
good luck

I have a 1995 Plymouth Voyager, from my father.

Runs well after tuned up. Have only had to replace an 02 sensor in the 30 days I have owned it.

Shortly after the 02 sensor replacement, I experienced an issue with the gauge cluster. I was driving and the gauges began to "float". Shortly there after the "check gauges" light came on. I found that when I accelerated the car, the gauges would register, but when I took my foot off the gas, the gauges would float, and the light would "ding" telling me to check gauges.

We checked all fuses under the panel interior, and under the hood. We replaced the cluster - didn't fix issue. We replaced the ECM, didn't fix issue.

Now gauges do not work at all.

We are stuck, no more theories. I bought the car dirt cheap in hopes to sell, as I could use the money. I need to fix this fast, as I am thinking no one will want to buy this vehicle without working gauges.

I do not have a diagram to hunt and peck wiring. Not sure where to find this inexpensively, or on net either.

Sounds like a body control module, or another defective cluster, did you get a used one? Read the codes, Try this to get the codes, turn the key from of to on three times, on the fourth time, leave it on, any fault codes will display in the odometer. Write them down and post here.

We tried the method to get the codes off the odometer... Nothing lit up. Nothing appeared.

We removed all the grounds under the hood and cleaned them up with sandpaper and put them back on. The gauge has power...

It reads "Check gauges". Van is running GREAT! - Minus this issue.

The cluster is good. It was used, but we have tried both the original and old one, and received the same response. Not thinking it is the cluster at this point..

Is there something else you can think of that would create this problem?

We checked all the fuses with test light as well.

We are drawing blanks. WE went and got a Hayne's repair book, and still can't figure anything out. I need to get this van sold. It sits unplated and my city is not going to have it much longer without giving me a ticket. Thank you VERY VERY much for you help.

If you still have the old cluster, use a soldering gun and heat the solder points till they remelt on the board, it's usually a bad solder on the bottom connector area.

Wouldn't that have changed when I swapped clusters?

If it was something bad on the cluster, it would have changed when I swapped them out right? Because I am getting the EXACT same result regardless of what cluster I put in it.

Each one connects, has power, check gauges light comes on, but either cluster will not register (as in none of the gauges; temp, odometer, gas will respond. They don't even float. All needles sit as lowest point, and do not move). So the cluster is getting power, the ECM appears to be working.. Swapped those back and forth as well, same result. I am thinking it's come kind of weird ground issue or something but I can't seem to locate it.

ENTERING ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS & SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS Electronic Instrument Cluster 1. While turning ignition on, simultaneously press TRIP and TRIP RESET buttons. The word CHEC should appear in odometer display. If there is no display, go to step 3). 2. If digits are displayed in odometer, repeat vehicle start (on-board diagnostic) sequence. If CHEC is displayed, cluster successfully entered self-diagnostic mode. Go to step 4). If an erroneous display in odometer appears, go to step 7). 3. Check all fuses. Check for ignition and battery voltage at instrument cluster connector. Check instrument cluster ground circuit. Repair voltage and ground circuit(s) as necessary. If all items are okay, replace instrument cluster. 4. Press US/M button to perform test sequence. If the word CODE appears in odometer display for 4 seconds, followed by 999 at 3 second intervals, go to step 7). If the word CODE appears in odometer display for 4 seconds, followed by 110 then 999 at 3 second intervals, replace electronic instrument cluster. 5. If the word CODE appears in odometer display for 4 seconds, followed by 921 then 999 at 3 second intervals, replace body controller. If the word CODE appears in odometer display for 4 seconds, followed by 900, 905, 920, 940 then 999 at 3 second intervals, go to next step. ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT CLUSTER CODES 6. Check Chrysler Collision Detection (C 2 D) serial data bus using Diagnostic Readout Box (DRB). Disconnect battery. Check continuity from electronic instrument cluster to body controller and Powertrain Control Module (PCM). If no continuity exists, repair circuit(s) as necessary. See Fig. 4 . If continuity exists, replace body controller or PCM. 7. Press US/M button to perform next test sequence. All display segments should come on for 6 seconds, then 5 should appear in odometer display. If some segments do not come on, replace instrument cluster. 8. If all segments come on, select appropriate test and proceed as indicated. To test fuel gauge circuit, go to next step. To test cluster illumination, go to step 11). To test individual segments and speedometer/odometer symbols, go to step 14). 9. If fuel gauge reading and cluster asterisk are not flashing, check fuel level input signal at body controller. If resistance at fuel level input pin is less than 2 ohms or more than 150 ohms, check wiring and/or fuel tank sending unit. 10. If resistance at fuel level input pin is 2-150 ohms, fuel level input signal is okay. Disconnect fuel sensor input to body controller. If fuel gauge indicates empty, repair short to ground in fuel sensor Code Affected Circuit/Fault 110 Cluster Failure 900 Lack Of Messages 905 BUS Loop Failure 920 Lack Of Messages From Body Controller 921 Body Controller Odometer Failure 940 Lack Of Messages From Powertrain Control Module 999 End Of Test Page 1 of 2 INSTRUMENT PANEL -1995 Plymouth Voyager 8/11/2008 input. If fuel gauge indicates full, check wiring and/or fuel tank sending unit. If fuel gauge does not indicate full, replace body controller. Fig. 4: Identifying Instrument Cluster Connector Terminals Courtesy of CHRYSLER CORP. 11. Turn headlights on. If Transmission Range Indicator (TRI) or button module do not illuminate, check if other instrument panel components are lit. If other components are not lit, turn headlight switch off then on. If condition is still present, check headlight switch, wiring and illumination feed circuit to body controller. 12. If other components are lit, remove instrument cluster. Move slider (rheostat) to full brightness. Measure voltage at instrument cluster connector pin No. 6. If voltage is less than one volt, repair circuit as necessary. 13. If voltage is more than one volt, carefully pull instrument cluster mask 3-4" from cluster. Disconnect TRI and button module wiring harness connectors. Remove button module and PRNDL mechanism. Replace TRI bulb. Install button module and TRI. Connect wiring harness and install mask. 14. Press US/M button to perform next test sequence. Individual segments should be displayed in sequence, then 6 should appear in odometer display. If 2 or more segments are displayed (lit) simultaneously, replace instrument cluster. 15. If segments light individually, press US/M button to perform next test sequence. Speedometer and odometer symbols should be displayed in sequence, then 7 should appear in odometer display. 16. If 2 or more symbols are lit simultaneously, replace instrument cluster. If symbols light individually, instrument cluster is operating properly. Press US/M button to return instrument cluster to normal operating mode.

try this tonight if I can my friend over my house. He is supposed to install a luggage rack on my parents van.

I'll let you know. Y

First my turn signals went out,then all my gauges on the dash quit working.gas,temp,speed..ect.I checked the fuses they are fine any ideas?

First, check all connections on the rear of the inst panel to make sure they are tight and clean. Also, check for broken or disconnected ground straps.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager, 125K miles 3.3 FlexFuel
all my guates (gas, fuel, RPM, & Speed) along with the gear indicator and odometer stopped working. At first, (a few days ago), when I started the car, they would come on, the gear indicator would light completely up with the odometer reading all 8's and then it would go off. After a few miles, it would come back on again.
After yesterday morning, the guages no longer come on at all, even though the odometer and gear selectors still light up completely before going dark.
I've checked the fuses which are all fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have a 96 Plymouth Neon, 108K miles. I just use it for commuting. The speedometer has been iffy since summer. if you hit a bump it would stop working, but came back soon enough. It sat all weekend, but when I got in it for work the speedometer, fuel gauge, water temp were bottomed out and the odometer stopped turning. Is this a VSS problem or something else? Does it sound electrical? Any ideas please let me know.

I think I *Might* have found the source of the problem (Time will tell on this one!). After running around for a few days with no gauges, I popped the hood and checked the power distribution block. Pulled and reseated the fuses and relays. Shortly after getting back in the van all the gauges came back on and have stayed on.
Not 100% sure this is the source (or just co-incidence), but will update.