Car cranks but won't start.

Hello,

This sounds like a ECCS relay is not working. But to be sure lets run some test to check it out here are two guides to help walk us through to get the engine going again.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

The ECCS relay location is in the diagram below. Please let us know what happens.

You guys are the best I ordered a new ESSC relay and installed it, fired right up! I love this site.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

I have replaced the fuel pump, spark plugs, and ignition coils. Checked the fuel pump relay/fuse. The car only starts when I spray starter fluid inside the throttle body. The battery and alternator are fine. I am trying to figure out why my car wont start. Any help would be appreciated.

Check the fuel pump control module left side of trunk it powers the fuel pump.

Checked for the switch, but it was not there. Could it be located in a different location?

if all you did was replace the pump then try resetting security system see link.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Car sat for four weeks after I started trying to get to it to start. It would not tun over or do anything. I replaced the battery, then the battery terminals, the the fusable link at the battery. I had the starter tested and it tedted "okay". Finally I replaced the starter and it now cranks normally, but will not start up. Could it need to be "primed" to get it going?

Cranks but no start condition:

Fuel and Spark:
Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

my car started to start like the battery wes going dead when I left a store. Then when I got home I had to jump start it.The next time I went to start it it wouldn't so I bought a new battery and thought that would do the trick but it didn't. It wont even start with a jump start.It makes no noise except a buzzing sound in the engine area.hope you can help. Thanks,Murray

Check your battery connections to be sure they are clean and tight. IF not you wont get full voltage to the starter and it wont work.Next check for 12 volts at themain starter lug (pos cable) and for 12 volts at thesmall wire on the starter with key in crank position.If has 12 volts at the small wire,but wont turn over the starter is bad

I started the car with my electric starter let the car warm up ,then all the lights and power went out , i found that the fusible had blow upon replacing it, it blow i'm not getting any power at all what can it be?

which fuse had blown?

[quote:f296fe2244="raci47"]which fuse had blown?[/quote:f296fe2244] the fusible link that is attached the the battery cable.

check the battery voltage and see if the voltage is carrying to the starter solenoid track the positive wire it should lead right to it. check the fuses under the dash and the fuses in the boxes under the hood also.

i attempted to install myself a remote start by bulldog security on my 2000 nissan maxima se.. it was installed and worked for the first few starts. it now wont start unless i hot wire it. if i unhook the entire remote start and put all cables back to where they were the ignition wont even turn the engine over. i turn the key to start and nothing happens not even clicking or anything. i have tried disconnecting the battery and i disabled the cars security device. but im still not getting the car to start without having to hot wire it... whats my problem?

Recheck the wiring you replaced. Something has to have been installed incorrectly.

I took out the remote start and every wire is connected exactly where it is supposed to be after coming from the factory...

Then there is either a problem with the ignition switch, starter relay, starter, or the wiring between.

I had one of my buddies come by and chek it out. I hooked up the key sense wires and blew the key sense so he just bypassed it so now I can use my duplicate key that doesn't have the micro chip in it

Wow!

Let us know if you have questions in the future.

Before my car stopped starting alltogether, it would start after I pushed on the gas. Then one day it stopped starting even after pushing on the gas. The mechanic changed the sparkplugs and crankshaft sensors and it started again. After having it from the mechanic one day it started having problems starting again so I would push on the gas and then it would start. Then again it stopped starting again and I took it to the mechanic and he said I wasn't get voltage from the pcm computer and it needs to be replaced. I don't think I believe him but I am stuck b/c I can't get a second opinion b/c then he will not fix my car.

When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

haha what??

I replaced the alternator on my maxima last week and a few days later the car will turn but isn't getting any gas to start, any suggestions?

Check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter if okay check for injection pulses from the injectors

i try to crank the car and all i hear is a whining sound but the engine does not turn at all i have a brand new battery and everything comes on i have turned on the lights and tried to crank and they stay bright. i have thought it was the starter but the starter has not given me any indication that it was about to go out. i have had this problem before and the car sat for two days them it just started when i tried it all of a sudden and ran good for about a week and now i am dealing with the same problem again can you please give me some type of hint as to what this could be and any steps i can take to find out before having to pay costly repairs.

Do you mean it cranks over and will not start or just won't crank at all/nothing/nada?

Cranks and w/n start

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

No crank at all/nothing/nada:

Could be the starter, starter relay, park and neutral switch and ignition switch assuming the battery and connections are good.

2000 Nissan Maxima 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

Turned key to start engine and nothing happened. Got it started by jumping it. Had code ran on vehicle and came back clean. Checked battery power. Lights and all dash lights burn bright. Was told everything checked out ok and if it happened again to bring it back and have it checked. Had no problems for 3 days and then it happened again. Still nothing on the code. Need to find out the possible causes of this type of failure. Once had a Ford Explorer that did the same thing adn running code check did not detect anything. Found out it was a relay.

Probable causes could be the starter, starter relay, park and neutral switch/clutch switch and ignition switch assuming the battery and connections are good.

Hi there, I got a start problem on my 2000maxima recently. When it's hot outside around lunch time, if I drive for 5 minutes and then turn it off, the car cannot start again until evening when it cools off. This car has a one-year old battery, which should still being working fine. Who could be the culprit?

I've been driving this car for over 2 years. Runs good. Regular oil change on time all the time. Recently replaced two front struts, 2 new front tires, and a new steering shaft, and 6 new spark plugs.

Thanks a lot!

Jimbo

forgot to mention that I can only hear the buzzing electric current sound when turning the key, nothing else moves or cranks.

Bought car at auction, has key. Turns over but won't start. Smell gas, pump runs. No fire Car was recently in an accident. Hit in left headlight. No air bag deployment. all fuses fook good. Can see no wireing damage except to headlight wires.

Turns over but won't start.

Disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, ECM,Ignitor cam and crank sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

My car willl not start at times. I've put a new starter on the car because I thought that was the problem and also had the dealer hook it up to the machine in which they said the anti theft had been activated and the car had to be reporgrammed which it was, when I turn the key I have all lights and radio but not even a click, nothing happens.

I've had the car towed three times but the dealership says they cannot find anything wrong with the car.

I have had the anti theft reprogrammed because the dealership said the issue was the key (computer chip) issue, however the car is still not starting at times.

From your description it sounded like an electrical/computer problem. Are you using the factory key set to start the engine? The key that comes with the car has a small computer chip embedded in the key (the blue piece). Without it, the car will not start. It may crank the engine, but the computer will not let it fire and run.

Also try your second spare key. Maybe the chip in the first key is on the fritz (going bad).

[quote="cmdrdatatx"]From your description it sounded like an electrical/computer problem. Are you using the factory key set to start the engine? The key that comes with the car has a small computer chip embedded in the key (the blue piece). Without it, the car will not start. It may crank the engine, but the computer will not let it fire and run.

Also try your second spare key. Maybe the chip in the first key is on the fritz (going bad).[/quote

I have had the computer system reset and new keys programmed as this was thought to be the issue in the beginning however the problem continued so they replaced the starter, I am still having the same problem.

OK, electrical problem can get tricky. My next step would be to disconnect the anti-theft sensors:
1. The hood sensor is located just to the right front as look into the engine.
2. The four door sensors (there are four of these).
3. I think there is another one in the trunk lid, but I don't recall where it is located.

These sensors are simple switches that provide ground signal to the theft computer. Disconnecting it would disable these sensor from activating the anti-theft.

If this solves your problem, then you need to isolate which one is causing it. If not, then perhaps you have a wiring to the computer that is chafed/frayed, thus inadvertently sending a signal to the computer to disable startup.

One other question: when this event occured, do you hear the horn beeps.the headlamp flashes etc. sometimes before you attempt to start it?

[quote:49b4b9a8fd="cmdrdatatx"]OK, electrical problem can get tricky. My next step would be to disconnect the anti-theft sensors:
1. The hood sensor is located just to the right front as look into the engine.
2. The four door sensors (there are four of these).
3. I think there is another one in the trunk lid, but I don't recall where it is located.

These sensors are simple switches that provide ground signal to the theft computer. Disconnecting it would disable these sensor from activating the anti-theft.

If this solves your problem, then you need to isolate which one is causing it. If not, then perhaps you have a wiring to the computer that is chafed/frayed, thus inadvertently sending a signal to the computer to disable startup.

One other question: when this event occured, do you hear the horn beeps.the headlamp flashes etc. sometimes before you attempt to start it?[/quote:49b4b9a8fd]

I have a full panel of lights, everything works inside the car, all of the electric windows, a/c, radio etc. I do not have a beep from the horn or a headlamp flash. This car left me stranded again tonight.

OK, I think I was misled by the initial fix solution provided by the dealer.

1. for example, you have the starter replaced but that did not solve the problem. so obviously its is NOT the starter.
2. the dealer says it is the alarm triggered which disabled the car from "firing". This resulted in my guessing that you have a faulty sensor. But since your car never honked/blinked anytime this is happening, I have my doubt that the dealer is correct in their diagnosis too.

Let' start over:

when you say the car won't start, what are the symptoms? Does the engine cranks but not firing, or just key turn to start and nothing happened/no crank?

Your answer may give me another clue to look. Next time this happens to you, please try this:

1. Jiggle the shifter handle from park to drive to park again a couple of time.
2. If it is stick shift, try depressing , release and depressing the clutch pedal, just to make sure the start safety mechanism is engaging.

Good luck.