blowing out hot air

Hello,

It sounds like the temperature blend door actuator is not working here is a guide to help walk you through the steps and diagrams below to show you how on your car.


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor


Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Thanks for this post I got a new actuator for $56.00 all fixed I love this site

Air Conditioning problem
1999 Ford E-Series Van V8
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Hi
I just replaced the evaporator coil, accumulator and orifice tube, because of poor air flow from a dirty clogged evaporator coil. The tempature coming out of the vent on hi still does not get cold enough. (57 - 58 degrees going 55 - 75 mph and 60 - 63 degrees going 40 - 55 mph) My mechanic says all pressure readings are normal and he can't find anything wrong. I checked the heater core and stopped the flow of hot water and it did not raise the temperature at all. Is it me or do you agree I have a problem? What is the normal working pressures at Idol at 90 degree temp? What can I check next to get it colder? Its hot here in Florida.
Thank You
John Marcello

Need high and low side readings
High 180-200
Low 35-45
Make sure fan clutch is hooking up also must have no outside air comming in.
Post readings blower on high 1500rpms door open

Here are my gauge readings.
Low 46 - High 275 idoling and fan on high
Low 30 - High 230 - 240 idoling fan on low
Low 32 - High 325 - (360 second time I checked), 1500 rpm fan high
Low 23 - High 260 - (270 second time I checked), 1500 rpm fan low

The fan clutch works. The temperature in the vent would not go lower than 70 degrees. Sorry I did not open the door on the test.

What do I test or look for now?

Thank You

The high side is a little on the up side but compared to the low system function appears good.
The low readings indicate the evaporator is cold you should be getting 38 vent temp. So the most likely cause is outside air must be getting into plenum after it passes through evap. Make sure recurcilate door is closed far right side pass. Does system work in all modes ie. def,floor?
Is fan flow good?
Was evap a snug fit so air could not get by it and did you notice blend door had the foam insulation on it?
It either air getting or fan forced air is giong by evap instead of through it to cool.

My van blows warm air when set on cold, even with ac on. Heater core was replaced, as well as thermostat, and flushed antifreezer. Any ideas? thanks!

Have the blend door checked. It determines if you get AC or heat. If stuck, all you will get is heat. It is located near the heater core.

Front A/C vents blow hot air. Rear A/C is ok, cold air.

Temperature blend door or heat control valve, if it has one, is stuck, if it's auto temp control do this, hit floor and off at the same tome, then auto this will self test the system, post the code that appears...

Hello.

My 92 Ford Econoline conversion van has an issue with the Air Conditioning. The AC blows cold. However, when we go up a hill or I accelerate and put any real load on the engine, the AC stops blowing until I ease up. When i looked under the hood this afternoon, there is a lot of condensation on the canister and hoses.

Any ideas what my problem may be?

You have a vacuum leak...see if it is still blowing from the defrost duct when accelerating...check the Vacuum storage cannister for holes! or hoses unplugged or worn thru...

5.8 w/ factory rear air, has had new compressor orifice(front), expansion valve (rear) dryer. System was flushed had some metal in orifice but hardly any came out of the system during flush. Both Evaporators looks pretty clean on outside. Charged 65oz as per sticker. Today ambient temp was 91deg and vent temp was 80deg. (About same as before system was serviced, old compressor was leaking though) low pressure was 50 high side was 255. New fan clutch. Removed heater core cover and verified blend door operation. A good friend of mine has a 93 almost identical that will freeze you out what am I missing here.

is the temp control cable go to a water valve on engine? is it broken or water valve not working? is condenser blocked? is low pressure hose dripping water or frosting over onpipe part.? do you have any vacuum leaks? is blend door fully closing off heater?

I have 1992 Ford Conversion Van Mark III. It has a rear AC unit that has stickers that it is made by Atwood. It draws Freon off of the front AC compressor which has recently been serviced and blows cold. The rear blower works but will only blow hot air. At the point where the AC lines go in to the unit one is they are cold ( can't remember if one or both) It also has 2 hoses for the heater that are both hot in and out of the unit. I have only found one Vacuum line going near the unit and looks to control the hot water lines going in to the heater core. There is Vacuum there and when the vacuum is removed part of the switch moves but doesn't seem to effect the temp of the air coming out of the rear. Any Diagrams of the Atwood system or insight on how the system works would be greatly appreciated

The heater valve seems to not be closing completely. Use you hand to push the valve in the direction that it goes when the vacuum is applied (this will fully close the valve). If the air temp changes from hot to cool or cold then the heater control valve is bad.

Thanks that was what I was leaning toward. it was moving that way when the vacuum was applied didn't cross my mind that it wasn't closing fully. I will check it when I get home.

Eastcoastautotoys Who bought Atwood some years back they had the part in stock and confirmed that the symptoms pointed to that water valve being the problem. I will follow up when the part arrives and install it
Thanks again for your help.

You're very welcome Goodski. Let me know how it eventually turns out.

yep that was the problem. Haven't driven it for an extended period of time yet but let it Idle for 15 or 20 min and the air didn't heat up which is better than it was doing before. Now I just need to figure out the rough Idle in the van after I let it warm up and the van should be good to go. That will be another question that I pose on a different thread.
Thanks Again

You're welcome.

Hi, I have a 94 ford econoline, e150. recently i noticed the engine idolling funny when the ac is on. with just the vent on its fine. also when the ac is on the clutch on the ac compressor spins and stops( and clicks) ever 5 to 10 seconds . i replaced the blower motor on it, because it went bad, replaced the blower motor relay, and another ac component similiar to the relay( maybe a switch), and checked fuses both in the distribution box and inside the van. i got it tested and the freon level was good. Do you know what it could possibly be? thanks

constant cycling of the cimpressor is either low charge, or the low pressure switch , ususlly on the reciever/dryer

Hot air comes out of the dash vents and the air on the floor boards, but doesn't come out from the vents down the middle of the roof of the van.

Hard to say where the problem is-could be a door/actuator or the HVAC control module-might want to open it up and investigate

In my 99 (and most likely for most years) the design of the Auxiliary Heat-A/C is such that heat only comes out of the integrated floor registers. A/C only comes out of the headlinger vents. When the front function selector is set to FLOOR or MIX, the auxiliary system send air to the floor vents. There is a typo in my manual that states that also in VENT position the auxiliary air is directed to the floor. Mine is directed to the headliner vents (and maybe floor). The manual counters itself in the very next paragraph by stating seperately, in the VENT position, the auxiliary unit will be recirculating interior air to the "discharge registers" (having never defined whether this refers to the floor, headliner or both registers). The front VENT air goes through the blend door so it will pick up heat if you set the temp control to warm. The rear unit has only a damper door to direct air and no blend door to control temp.