Instrument cluster gauges suddenly stopped working?

Check body grounds, check the wiring to the inst cluster, and check the body control module (BCM) lets check the gauges fuse as well. This guide will help with the fuse locations in the diagrams below. Example, check fuse 11, this supplies dash with power.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please run this test and get back to us.

The dash instruments and all warning lights went out, but all the fuses seem OK. This includes the spedometer, odometer (LED), fuel, tach, charge, idiot lights...but not the dash illuminating light, or the dash light that comes on when you turn on the headlights. I cant seem to pin down the problem, and before ordering lots of stuff (Like BCM) I would really like to see if I can definitively narrow it down. All other electrical things seem to work, but the right blinker blinks fast even though the both front and rear bulbs are OK. All other things in the car seem fine; even the lighter, internal lights, radio, fan, etc... It JUST seems to be the dash. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks!

Check fuse 11, this supplies dash with power.

let me know what you find.

Joe

[quote:a645738f07="Jacobandnickolas"]Have the body control module (BCM) checked.

let me know what you find.

Joe[/quote:a645738f07]

Thanks Joe,

Having someone else check the BCM will cost more than just getting a new one on Ebay. So, would that be the way to go? I could figure out how to change it out myself.

That is where I would start, but I don't like replacing parts without knowing they are bad. I would hate to have you replace it and still have a problem.

[quote:2b5b8853f4="Jacobandnickolas"]That is where I would start, but I don't like replacing parts without knowing they are bad. I would hate to have you replace it and still have a problem.[/quote:2b5b8853f4]

How would one check it to see if it were still good without taking it to the dealer. There does not seem to be a cheaper alternative; but I am sure that Im missing some important piece of information. Thanks.

The instrument cluster does not work, the fuel, water temp, nothing I have checked the cluster fuses and they are okay. any suggestions?

It sounds like the cluster is bad here is the job being done on a similar car with instruction in he images below to show you how on your car.

https://youtu.be/_HEC44xENxw

Check out the images (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Did you check for voltage, anywhere? Even if the fuses are good, you still need to check voltage at the fuse circuit. Any applicable trouble codes?

[quote:1acbffd96a="Jacobandnickolas"]Honestly, you need the proper test equipment.[/quote:1acbffd96a]

I dont suppose that you know where exactly this thing is? From what I can gather, it is behind the fuse box on the driver side kick panel, and also goes by the name CTM (central timing module) and possibly ECM (but Im not too sure about this one).

Just to add, the instrument panel serves as the command center for vehicle.

Intermittantly (happened twice so far) once during the day,and once at night. the Check Gauges light came on and I got the chime warning,and I noticed the battery gauge needle had gone up to 18,all the way over to the right. When I stopped the truck and turned off the engine and restarted,it went away. Second time it happened was at night and I noticed that the interior lights,gauge lights and headlights were all slightly flickery. Driving was not affected either time it happened. Any ideas what could cause this?
thanks !!

18volts is too high sounds like the voltage regulator is not controlling the alternator output. Have the charging system checked out-

what do i look for when the check gauges light comes on the voltage gauge goes minus and is not in the middle,truck is still running

If the volt gauge is low, that is why the light is on. Chances are the alternator is bad. Take the truck to a nationally recognized parts store and have them check alt output. Most will do it for free.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Electrical problem
1999 Dodge Dakota 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

I have a 99 Dakota 2x4 that was running fine, until it was hit in the drivers fender. All the wiring looks good, and nothing other than the fender and bumper look to be dammaged.
The problem is when the ignition key is inserted the light indicators illuminate on the dash, which is normal, but after the vehicle starts they stay on. The analog gauges dont appear to work ( batt, fuel, temp..etc) they are all off to the left. Any clue as to where to start troubleshooting? Would this show up w/ a code scanner? Thanx in advance .... Mike

Chances are a scanner will not show these problems. I need you to start by checking for body grounds that have been damaged, loose, or broken.

Let me know what you find.

K...... I do remember a ground not connected now that you mention it.... maybe thats it.. I'll keep you posted. Any way to find a under hood photo of this truck? There are some things not connected..ie this small canister that looks to have connections on it for hoses. Kinda looks like the old oil bath air cleaners, in shape, but smaller and of course plastic....

That sounds like the EVAP canister. Is it in the inner fender area on the passanger side?

Well.......maybe....the damage was to the driver side so I'm more inclined to think it came from that side. I'd like to have under hood pic of this truck, so I can put things back where they belong. thanx again... and I'll be back..

Check Guage light is on. Battery gauge is pinned to the right, or high i guess. Stereo cuts in and out. Truck still runs. Worried that if i drive it that it will fry something. Battery is new, master computer was replaced about 8 months ago, truck just has ignition wire problem that was fixed. Any ideas as to what this could be? Thanks

If you give me specifics, I can try to find diagrams. If you want an under the hood picture, it will be too basic and not helpful.

I wouldn't drive it like that. If you have a digital multimeter check the battery and charging system. Any applicable codes?

wow i have the same exact problem. I replaced my engine in my dodge and about a month or two later My gauges went out. I bought a new speed sensor and installed it but it was no good. I then went to my friends shop he had a scanner and he could not find anything wrong. Its been two yrs i still havent found the problem but when i was my engine my gauges work for a little bit. im sure it is a wire or something. Jacobandnicolas would you know where exactly the ground wire/s would be at?

I have no gauges working no fuel to motor no lights on inside truck. the truck will start and run for a few seconds then dies like it ran out of gas. I check the fuel pressure and theres none. I changed computer, ignition switch, coil, just stumped by this. all fuses and relays seem good. also if I push brake in with the key on it the check engine light and another light comes on. have tried to hook odb2 scanner to it with it not recognizing the truck. pulled all sensor plugs off one at a time with no success.dont know where to go from here

clean battery terminal ends, battery to body and battery to engine grounds . kinda sounds like it's searching for a ground. check fuse 10 with a test light to see if it is ok it's a 40 ampere also fuse 7 also check your auto shutdown relay that may be the whole problem all are in the pdc.

1997 Dodge Dakota

I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota with a 5.2L. I was involved in an accident and it crushed the front driver's side of the truck. It basically only smashed the front headlight. I am in the process of replacing the front clip. When I went to take the headlight assembly out I took all the bulbs out and tucked the wires from the assembly inside the hole where the wires were coming out of right next to the fuse box right inside the engine compartment. I did not have the battery disconnected (I know stupid of me). I then went around and noticed that the dome light inside the truck was off. Everything inside the truck does not work besides the illumination around the gages and the cigarette lighter. But none of the gages, radio, dome light, or the mirrors work. I've gone through and checked all the fuses and they're all good. I am not sure if it might be an actual relay or a wiring problem. Before all this happened, everything worked. There was no spark or any short when I put the wires inside that I saw. Is there some way that I can check the relays? All the relays that I saw on the panel diagram didn't say anything about the gages or any interior components. There is one relay type thing inside the fuse box in the cab but I am not what it is for. Any Suggestions? Please I need professional help on this one only.

Hi:

It sounds like you have a problem. Since everything worked prior to you working in it, chances are you pulled something and didn't realize it. My suggestion, without seeing the vehicle, is to follow all of the wires that you were working with and make sure nothing is disconnected or broken. Next, did you disconnect a body ground when removing the fender? That could be causing your problem too. Finally, you need to find a wiring schematic for your vehicle and identify where the power is coming from for the gauges, and follow it to see if there is a problem.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

well i have a 1996 dodge dakota and the fuse box under the hood has a fuse for interior stuff my blew and nothing worked on the inside so look at the fuses and that may be the problem

truck was running fine went to restart gauges wont come up spins over wont run

This could just be a blown fuse. I have the following diagnostics information, that I got for my 1998 Dakota when I was having a fuel gauge problem. Hopefully it will help you.


1.If the indicator lamps operate, but none of the gauges operate, go to Step 2. If all of the gauges and the data bus message-controlled indicator lamps are inoperative, go to Step 5.

2.Check the Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as required and replace the faulty fuse.

3.Check for battery voltage at the IOD fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the open circuit as required.

4.Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the instrument cluster. Connect the battery negative cable. Check for battery voltage at the fused B( +) circuit cavity of the instrument cluster wire harness connector (connector A) If OK, go to the Self-Diagnostic Test. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the IOD fuse as required.

5.Check the fused ignition switch output (run/start) fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 6. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as required and replace the faulty fuse.

6.Turn the ignition switch to the On position and check for battery voltage at the fused ignition switch output (run/start) fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 7. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the ignition switch as required.

7.Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Reinstall the instrument cluster. Connect the battery negative cable. Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Set the parking brake. The red brake warning lamp should light. If OK, go to Step 8. If not OK, go to Step 9.

8.Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Turn on the park lamps and adjust the panel lamps dimmer rheostat to the full bright position. The cluster illumination lamps should light. If OK, go to Step 10. If not OK, repair the power ground circuit from the instrument cluster wire harness connector (connector A) to ground as required.

9.Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
Remove the instrument cluster. Connect the battery negative cable. Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Check for battery voltage at the fused ignition switch output (run/start) circuit cavity of the instrument cluster wire harness connector (connector A) If OK, go to the Self-Diagnostic Test. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the junction block fuse as required.

10.Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the instrument cluster. Check for continuity between the logic ground circuit cavity of the instrument cluster wire harness connector (connector A) and a good ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to the Self-Diagnostic Test. If not OK, repair the open circuit to ground as required.