2000 CHEVROLET TAHOE
278,000 MILES
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Bleeding brakes on my tahoe after replacing all lines. I have heard something about having to take it to a dealer to have this done properly. Is this true? I know to start at the right rear and work closer but the master cylinder went dry before the new lines were installed...do i need to bleed this somehow? Heard something about reseting a proportional valve. What does this look like and how is this done? There is a small unit that the two lines from the master cylinder go into and then two come out to each front wheel and one to the rear that splits to each wheel...what is this unit and does this need bleeding as well. Standard bleed method or other?
Dec 31, 2012 at 12:57 AM
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CARADIODOC
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It sounds like you do not have anti-lock brakes so there's no need to go to the dealer to use a scanner to open various valves. Open the bleeder screws, slightly open the brake fluid reservoir cap to prevent vacuum from building as the fluid leaves, and just let it gravity-bleed. If necessary, since the master cylinder was run empty, irritate the brake pedal a little to get the fluid flow started. As with any vehicle more than about a year old, never push the brake pedal more than half way to the floor. Doing so can damage the seals in the master cylinder.

As far as the order of bleeding, some people say to start with the longest run to get the most air out as quickly as possible. That may help when peddle-bleeding with a helper, which I never do. Some people start with the shortest run to get one line totally bled quickly. I start with the wheel I'm standing closest to.

You don't bleed the proportioning valve. It's a part of the combination valve and you just treat it as part of the lines. The air will bleed out by itself.
Dec 31, 2012 at 1:18 AM