Monitors will not clear?

If the engine never gets up to operating temperature the computer will not go into closed loop which will cause the monitors not to set. I would remove the thermostat to see if it is stuck open. If you have a temperature gauge, have you noticed the needle is down on the cold side? Here is the location and how to change it out in case you want to do the inspection. Check out the images (below). Please upload pictures or videos of the problem so we can see what's going on.

Hey, Ken

I'm going to start at the top. I had a check engine it was the evap vent solenoid on the top of the tank go bad, I replaced it with an OEM new part. I check and cleared the fault code I also had a battery red-light come on all the lights on the dash flashed on and off like it lost all electric power but it did not lose power of the engine flashed 2time red battery stay on for 15 seconds then back to normal it only does that under a load I check the belt tenioner, it was okay. replaced battery it still does once a month or so only when I Accelerate real hard on a Hill now.
My NYs inspection failed due to the last 2 modules catalyst and evap not ready I gave tested evap leak test and purge test it pass when used my Diagnosing scanner and tester its one of the better ones. I veiw all the live data real time as it tested and it passed .
But when I go and run the obd2 i/m ready ness cat and evap Not Ready I've tried everything but replacing the fuel cap with a rag and light it to see if that would did it I have over 1500 miles on it 40 plus cold start to operational temp to perform the gm reboot to start the messed up testing process 3minat 55 5min at 55 etc I have over 500.00 fuel driving to nowhere. The two Monitors just do not want to reset. The darn car has never run better. I have not had any fault codes or engine lights on. In 1,500 miles and going.

Hey, Ken
I'm going to start at the top I had a check engine it was the evap vent solenoid on the top of the tank go bad, I replaced it with a oem new part. I check and cleared the fault code I also had a battery red-light come on all the lights on the dash flashed on and off like it lost all electric power but it did not lose power of the engine flashed 2time red battery stay on for 15 seconds then back to normal it only does that under a load I check the belt tenchener alternator ok replaced battery it still does once a month or so only when I Accelerate real hard on a Hill now.
My nys inspection failed do to the last 2 modules catalyst and evap not ready I gave tested evap leak test and purge test it pass when used my Diagnosing scanner and tester its one of the better ones. I veiw all the live data real time as it tested and it passed .
But when I go and run the obd2 i/m ready ness cat and evap Not Ready I've tried everything but replacing the fuel cap with a rag and light it to see if that would did it I have over 1500 miles on it 40 plus cold start to operational temp to perform the gm reboot to start the messed up testing process 3minat 55 5min at 55 etc I have over 500.00 fuel driving to nowhere. The two Monitors just do not want to reset. The damn car has never ran better.i have not had any fault codes or engine lights on. In 1500 miles and going.

What scan tool do you have? GMs will not run the CAT tests if certain thresholds are not met
This is the OE drive cycle - Note the time between drive cycles and the tests highlighted for EVAP and CAT. Those and fuel level are common failure points. on them.


INSPECTION/MAINTENANCE (I/M) COMPLETE SYSTEM SET PROCEDURE

IMPORTANT: Always perform the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Check prior to using this diagnostic procedure

DESCRIPTION
The purpose of the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) complete system set procedure is to satisfy the enable criteria necessary to execute all of the I/M readiness diagnostics and complete the trips for those particular diagnostics. When all I/M monitored diagnostic tests are completed, the I/M System Status indicators are set to YES. Perform the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) Complete System Set Procedure if any I/M System Status indicators are set to NO.

CONDITIONS FOR MEETING A COLD START
- The ignition voltage between 11.0 and 18.0 volts.
- The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa.
- The start-up engine coolant temperature (ECT) is between 4-30°C (39-86°F).
- The start-up intake air temperature (IAT) is between 4-30°C (39-86°F).
- The difference between the IAT and the ECT is 6°C (10.8°F)
- The ambient air temperature is between 4-30°C (39-86°F).
- Fuel level is between 15-85 percent
- Vehicle has NOT been refueled since the last cold start ignition cycle.

CIRCUIT/SYSTEM VERIFICATION
Review the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Status indicators. All I/M System Status indicators should report YES.

INSPECTION/MAINTENANCE (I/M) SYSTEM SET PROCEDURE
1. Ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start listed above.
- If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, perform the EVAP Service bay test if applicable.
- If the EVAP Service bay test is NOT available, it may take up to 6 drive cycles, with 17 hours between drive cycles for the EVAP I/M System Status Indicator to transition to YES.
- If the O2S Heater System Status indicator displays NO, ensure that the ignition has been turned OFF for at least 10 hours.

IMPORTANT- Whenever the ignition is turned ON, ignition positive voltage is supplied to the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) heaters. After verifying the enable criteria, turn OFF the ignition for approximately 5 minutes to allow the sensors to cool before continuing with the test. Once the engine is started, do NOT turn the engine OFF for the remaining portion of the set procedure.

2. Turn OFF all accessories; HVAC system, other electrical loads, including aftermarket/add-on equipment, etc., and open the hood.
3. Set the vehicle parking brake and ensure the vehicle is in park for automatic transmission or neutral for manual transmission.
4. Turn the ignition ON with the engine OFF for 1 minute.
5. Start and idle the engine for 2 minutes and until 65°C (149°F) is achieved.
6. Run the engine for 6.5 minutes within the following conditions:
- MAF parameter between 4-30 g/s
- Engine speed steady between 1000-3000 RPM
7. Return the engine to idle for 1 minute.
8. Apply and hold brake pedal, and shift to Drive for automatic, or apply clutch pedal for manual and operate the vehicle within the following conditions for 2 minutes:
- Depress the accelerator pedal until TP Sensor angle is more than 2 percent.
- MAF signal between 15-30 g/s
- RPM steady between 1200-2000 RPM
9. Release the accelerator pedal and shift the vehicle to Park for automatic, or Neutral and release clutch pedal for manual, and allow the engine to idle for 2 minutes.

IMPORTANT- Do NOT touch the accelerator pedal until told to do so. A change in TP Sensor angle or an increase in engine speed may invalidate this portion of the test.

10. Quickly depress the accelerator pedal until TP Sensor Angle is more than 8 percent and return to idle, repeat 3 times.
11. Allow engine to idle for at least 2 minutes.
12. Close the hood, release the parking brake and drive vehicle at 24 km/h (15 mph) or slower for 2 minutes.

Refer to Road Test Caution.

13. Continue to drive the vehicle for at least 5.5 miles between 45-112 km/h (28-70 mph) with the vehicle reaching at least 80 km/h (50 mph).
14. Release the accelerator pedal for at least 3 seconds. This will allow the vehicle to enter the decel fuel cut off.
15. Depress the accelerator pedal until the TP Sensor angle is between 3-20 percent and maintain for 1 minute.
16. Safely stop the vehicle, with the engine in drive for automatic or neutral with the clutch pedal depressed and parking brake applied for manual. Allow the vehicle to idle for 2 minutes.
17. Shift the vehicle to park for automatic and neutral for manual. Turn OFF the ignition and exit the vehicle. Do NOT disturb the vehicle for 45 minutes.

IMPORTANT- Do NOT disturb the vehicle or turn ON the ignition until told to do so. Disturbing the vehicle may invalidate this portion of the test.

18. Observe the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Status with a scan tool. All of the I/M System Status indicators should display YES.
- If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO turn OFF the ignition for 17 hours, ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start, and repeat steps 13-18 three more times, or until the EVAP I/M System Status indicator transitions to YES. If the indicator continues to display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table to identify the DTCs that did not run.
- If any of the I/M System Status indicators display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table for the indicator which did not display YES. The I/M System DTC Table identifies the DTCs associated with each I/M System Status Indicator.

Thank you very much, I've been trying to find the complete i/m procedure until now.
I do have the Ability to tooth perform a service pay the criteria for is all 4 wheels off the ground, correct? My system has the that, but I have not used yet because it states I do not meet the criteria to perform a service bay test test i did not have all 4 wheels off the ground, I think that was that problem.

The EVAP service bay test doesn't require the truck be in the air that I recall.
SERVICE BAY TEST

DESCRIPTION
The evaporative emission (EVAP) Service Bay Test raises the engine coolant temperature (ECT) threshold so that the temperature sensitive EVAP diagnosis tests can run while in service environments. When the EVAP tests are run the service bay test will indicate a pass or will indicate a specific DTC has failed. The EVAP service bay test can be used to verify an existing condition and verify that the EVAP system is OK after a repair is completed.

CONDITIONS FOR RUNNING THE TEST

IMPORTANT: The following conditions must be met in order to enable the Service Bay Test:
- The ignition is ON.
- The battery voltage is between 9-18 volts.
- The engine coolant temperature (ECT) is less than 70°C (158°F).
- The fuel level is 15-85 percent of capacity.
- The vehicle speed is less than 4.8 km/h (3 mph).
- Stored DTCs have been cleared.

TEST PROCEDURE
1. Install a scan tool.
2. With a scan tool, select the service bay test in the special functions menu.
3. Follow the instructions on the scan tool.
4. Check DTCs with a scan tool.
5. Continue with the published service data diagnostic DTC procedure.

thanks, you i was hoping to not have to keep drive this thing up and the down the road has got in very old and costly! But it is what it. Problem I have is now the fuel level I have is below 10% from the last cold start, am I correct to say I need to add fuel start the vehicle and turn engine off wait for 17hrs before trying any more testing?

My system did perform an evap vent and purge tests it stated ok passed but Obd2 does not see it or the i/m ready Ness. Shows NC not ready from the last time I ran it about 6 cold starts ago. FYI to the above.

Is there a way to upload the report for it?

Here is a report for your review and comments. thanks

Yes, you need to add fuel for it to run the EVAP test. The service bay test shows that the EVAP can pass, but it doesn't record that in the ECU, it has to run the drive cycle and pass for that. Don't see the report but it sounds like the converter monitor is still not set?

Correct the catayst is not. I just need 1 of the 2 to reset to clear. For the New York inspection to pass they Allow one monitor not ready. So that's what I'm trying to do to get. At least one of these darn monitors the run and pass to get my sticker. Evap or catalyst.

Yes, being in NY myself I'm very familiar with the inspection process. At least you are trying to be legal, I get folks all the time wanting ways to avoid the laws. Nope, not getting hit with the fine and possibly being closed down because someone decided to straight pipe their car...

I heard you when don't operate as designed it always causes more problems, but it's better to fix it and fix it right. Did you get a chance to look at the questions I had regarding the Fuel event I only have of less than 10% of Fuel. So, I need to add some to complete the cold start procedure. Do I have to wait 17 hours, after I add it using a fuel can am I understanding you correctly?

I here you when don't operate as designed it always Causes more problems, but it's better to fix it and fix it right. Did you get a chance to look at the Questions I had regarding the Fuel event I Only have of less than 10% of Fuel. So I need to add some to complete the cold start procedure. Do I have to wait 17 hours, after I add it using a fuel can am I Understanding you correctly?

Yes, you need to add fuel for it to run the EVAP test. I try to run it at 1/2 tank as it meets the requirements and can avoid things like bad senders at low levels. Unfortunately, yes you need to wait, but I've had some shock me and clear right after I added fuel.

Thanks Steven, I'm on the clock waiting 17 hours.
New problem! To ask about the brake light and alarm come on sometime for what I haven't found it I've tested and replaced brake Fluid Level switch Tested the e brake that was fine, i got a gremlin in this Buick. I turn it off and back on time it stops sometimes not then I have to pull the ratio fuse to get it to stop driving nuts. Any ideas?

We try to keep issues separated to make searches easier. As such I'll ask you to put those up as new questions. That way if someone else is looking for a similar problem it will show up.

Steve, is the a Procedure for setting the catalyst Monitor?

That is the drive cycle for all monitors. It should set them all to complete as long as there are no codes, and the conditions are met.

I was hoping there was a way to run/ perform a monitor test independently. thanks so much for helping on this one.

Yep, there is no way to do that, the monitors must set on their own.

You can do tests that show you that say the O2 sensors are working, but the monitor has to be set on its own. Like the EVAP service bay test, it shows you that the system is okay but only the completed drive cycle can actually change the monitor to complete. If you followed the drive cycle and they still haven't set, you have a problem that isn't setting a code. For instance, if the coolant temperature isn't in the window listed the test won't run. Or if there is a sensor that is skewed it can block it.

Hey Ken, thanks for the info, the o2 sensors monitor has cleared to ok, at this point I have 4 complete drive
cycles completed and showing 6 cold cycles on the monitor with 2 monitors Inc evap and catalyst. I currently loan the car to a friend of mine told him to drive the hell out of it for about a week and bring it back I'll pay for the ticket if he gets one for no inspection, I leaning towards a electronical issue I'm still get the dash lights flashing when I punch the throttle to 3/4 to full not everything but 1 out of 4 anyway all lights flash off and on like 3time then goes back to normal with no check engine light after the alternator is charging to 13.7 to 14.1 but i have the feeling there's something I'm still getting that dam alarm brake light comes on then i get ding, ding, ding really loud through the speakers, drives me nuts. I changed the level sensor tested the e brake switch that's good. So, I turn the key off, turn it back on it stops light goes out and it does it randomly just not quite right at this point who the heck knows not me that's for sure all I feel like I'm doing is blowing smoke up. At this point.

So, it won't set the EVAP and Cat even after the extended drive? That indicates that you have some problem blocking the tests from running. The electrical issue you have is likely the problem. The momentary light show could be causing the module to reset and cancel the testing. What part of NY are you in?

Up state Elmira area, I can have 1 not ready inc, I know it is a ground problem I added 4 new ones. I am going to just pick up an alternator it could be that damn built-in regulator, the piece of it's the draw. It's not that you're going to want to watch the video of the wet rage in the fuel spout test!
I have had the Buick for 12 yrs it telling me it time for retirement the quick way!

Heck, I never reprogrammed the BCM I still have the airbag light and I replaced it. But don't care about that for get a NYs inspection it's been on for 4trs always passed right through it never gave any obd2 codes so didn't worry about it.

Elmira, you're southern tier compared to me, I'm up near the Baseball Hall of Fame myself. But I can tell you there is a shop in your area that could repair that vehicle, right up the road in Avoca at South Main, so don't toss in the towel yet. That said a BCM mismatch could cause it to not complete testing as the BCM tells the ECM the configuration of options as well as works as part of the safety systems. Likely it will take getting the BCM updated so that it works properly and finding the issue with the voltage dropping to get it to run the monitors. Although the converter monitor is a continuous one, so I'm surprised it isn't running if the CEL is off. One thing you could try, reset the system and run the drive cycle and see if it clears then, it would reset all the other monitors but it sounds like those run and clear okay as it is.

I am learning that with the BCM, the system has not been completely so I'm going to start again, and this time pull the negative battery for 20 minutes to clear and start fresh and see what is what. I know the shop owner the your telling me of he's a friend from years ago. Small world it is. thanks, Bill

Starting fresh will at least show you if there is another problem, if it still refuses to set both monitors you know it's being blocked from running the tests.

I will let you know here soon when I get the Buick back the I section sticks out so I'm sure he will bring it back soon regardless this coming week. thanks Bill

STEVE W. is one of our best! Use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help. Please tell a friend.

We'll be here when you get the car back.