Engine cranks and tries to start but doesn't can you help me fix it?

It has spark. It has fuel pressure, we did a fuel pressure test. we checked all the sensors and fuses. when we ran a diagnostic scan with a snap on diagnostic it said no communication with the pcm so I am assumeing it need that and we are trying to locate a good used one to try because they are pretty exspensive new....

oh and come to find out it was the PCM that was out thanks for the guides they help us find it.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

No fuel pressure, new pump, fuel filter, crankshaft sensor.

Good morning.

Can you hear the pump run for two seconds with the key on?

Did you check for power at the plug for the pump?

I attached a wire diagram for you to view. Start with the fuse and make sure you have power to both sides of the fuse with the key on.

Roy

good spark, good fuel pressure, good power to injectors, no ground from pcm at fuel injectors. Will a theft system issue cause no grounding at injectors from the pcm? any common ground problems anyone knows about? thanks

Have you checked the cam sensor? PCM uses the cam signal for injector pulse. Security light with key out should blink once every 2-3 seconds, then with key in on position, it should go on solid for 2-3 secnds then go out. Then car wil start. If the light is flashing rapidly, there is a problem with the security mod, or cluster. Or the Key isnt being recognized.

Ok I think the theft system is working properly then, thanks. the cam sensor could cause a no-start condition then? i wasnt sure if the pcm just used it for timing? I will check that. Also I replaced the pcm with a used pcm with the same part number, not realizing that the theft module and pcm are matched. I reinstalled the old pcm and cannot communicate with it via scan tool. the scan tool powers up but no comm. also the odometer is showing no mileage now just lines . (---------) im guessing installing another pcm wasnt a good idea.

OK try this install all original mods, then disconnect the negative battery cable for 30 minutes, then see if your cluster returns to normal, if not, Lincoln will need to reprogram all mods affected...sorry for the bad news. Ignition switch PCM and Cam sensor need to be OK for injector pulse.

Thanks for the help, i"ll give that a try.

Let me know, I'll be checking back!

i tried disconnecting the battery and that did not do it...i also tried a different scan tool and found i cannot communicate with any module? have good power and grounds at dlc. any common ground issues with the bus line? im guessing this isnt a program issue since i cannot communicate with anything.

Check these circuits, I will send an email with the proceedures.

Top pic is your DLC(data link connector), Bottom is your PCM Pins...

i started the car drove it for 50 yards tured it off got back in to it but the car wont start it turns over sounds to me like no petrol and there is no smell of petrol can u help me. i'm sure there is no fuel going into the engine. how can this be fixed.

There is a schrader valve on the fuel rail, use a gauge to test for fuel pressure. If none go in the trunk, on the side you will see a sticker about the fuel pump inertia switch. Get access to it.Use test light , should have power in and out when vehicle is first turned on and cranked.If it has it and no pressure, the fuel pump is bad

I checked for spark there is fire going into the two .coils but, nothing is coming out. I did replace the passinger side coil. Now it is doing the same thing.Why no start?

This sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor or the fuel pump has gone out, when you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

Crank no start. No fuel, coil is firing, new fuel pump, fuel filter and crank sensor relay. Pump fuse okay and PCM relay and fuse okay. I have power to pump in tank.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

If the fuel pressure is correct at the fuel rail, we need to first check for an injector pulse. Take a look at this link. It shows how to check.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

If there is no power to the injectors, the camshaft position sensor may be the problem.
The camshaft position sensor sends the power-train control module a signal indicating camshaft position which is used for fuel synchronization. If it has failed, the injectors will not inject fuel into the engine.

If you determine the sensor is the issue, here are the directions for component replacement. Starting with picture 2, all correlate with these directions.
___________________________

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.

CAUTION: Always disconnect the battery ground cable prior to work on the electronic engine controls or damage to the electronic component may occur.
2. Disconnect the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor.
3. Remove the bolt and the CMP sensor.

INSTALLATION
1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

___________________________

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Our 1996 Cartier Town Car now only starts after several attempts, or does not start at all when it is wet out. It acts like it is not getting gas but gas is shooting thru the gas line, when we unhooked it. Also runs rough after starting until "warms up." Then seems to run fine and without warning will run rough enough to stall with no other observable commonalities. We also have a 1997, so if I should "trade" ignition coils or whatever, that is possible. (This is even happening in freezing Chicago temperatures.) It has Bosch platinum plugs and lifetime spark plug wiring recently changed. Gas mileage does not seem to be affected and still stays over 24 MPG. (I donated my 1991 after 277,000 and I was trying to get more than that from this one, and my wife's ; normally I love these cars, epsecially on road trips.) This happened before and I must have overheated a wire trying to start it and I finally had to have it towed into the Lincoln dealership when it absolutely would not start. After several days of diagnosis (and a labor charge discounted to $500) they said a wire from the computer to the spark control, whatever, was broken and they had a special splice kit to repair it.

What we need to know, when the no start condition exists, is what is missing. You apparently have checked fuel flow so I'm assuming it's spark, injector pulse or both. If you are losing both, I would suspect the crankshaft position sensor. Please advise.

Would you also advise changing the camshaft position sensor? (If this helps, it seems like I have a much better chance of starting the car if I first move the key to the Accessory Position.)

Moving the key to accessory shouldn't really make any difference. You could go ahead and change the CPS and hopr for the best. I would be more comfortable saying this if I knew you had no spark and injector pulse. Let me know.

Ok, like many other posts ive read online , this car , usually after have driving it over 30 miles or has made a few trips it will sometimes not start up. It cranks very fast but no fire. it is in the 100's degrees temp where i live.

Ive tapped, cleaned and swapped around the relays for the fuel pump/eec relays, had someone listen in the trunk for fuel pump and it comes on. Hasnt had a tune up in awhile but i dont think that is an issue because when it runs it idles great, great pick up, ect.

Now we noticed last time we tried a few things that when we took a plug wire off, put a screw driver in it and put it close to various metal parts in the engine and it had no spark, now i dont know if modern day electronics prevent you from testing spark like the old days or not.

i was told it could be computer, but would a bad computer do it more often? I have tried to put it in (N) but still doesnt start there either. checked for loose connections, none can be found. I have not yet takin it anywhere to have a code done yet.

I have a 1995 Lincoln Town Car with 158,000 miles on it. Every once-in-awhile it will refuse to start. It cranks over very good but won't start. Ford has $100.00 ed me to death so I tried a mechanic with a very good reputation. Still can't find a problem. When it's running no problem shows up on the computer. Today, it did it to me after a funeral that I attended. I don't know if it was coincidence, or not, But thinking that a relay might have stuck, I rapped on the relay box by the computer and it started up. I really don't know if it was coincidence or not because I never know when it's going to start.

This guide help me fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

my car wont start i had a fuel pump put in. But my car wont start still but i notice i have a fuel switch reset or cut on/off switch. But i also notice the wires are extremely bad could that be the reason why it wont start

Before you start changing a lot or parts we need to make sure fuel is the problem. You can do one of 2 things, use a pressure gauge om the service port, turn key on then off see if fuel is present. The back yard way is to have some one turn it over and spray a little starting fluid in the air intake, make sure if you do this to spray it after the mass air sensor. If it runs, then fuel is the problem. The cut off switch do not have a lot of trouble, you can check it by probing both sides and see if continuity is present, it is a closed switch that opens to break the connection. If the switch is good you might have a bad crank trigger. When you turn the key on the ecm will power the pump for a second then stop till you turn it over, then the crank trigger sends a signal to power the pump.
Might be more info than you need but hope it helps.

New fuel pump, new fuel filter, cleaned plugs. no fuel to injectors.

Welcome to 2CarPros.

I realize you replaced the fuel pump. However, is it running? Have you checked fuses, relays, and other components related to the fuel system? If you checked fuel pressure and there is no pressure to the fuel rail (where the injectors attach), then the pump isn't running or something is plugged. Will the engine start with starting fluid?

Do me a favor, see if you can hear the pump prime for a couple seconds when you first turn the key to the run position.

Let me know what you find.

Joe