My check engine light has been coming

Start by checking the EGR could be all clogged-up with carbon and inspect its passages or might not be coming on when needed.

But to be sure here is a guide to help us fix the problem

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.

I can be driving and it acts like it cannot get fuel and slows down then all of a sudden it kicks and goes. when the check engine light is on it runs great, when the check engine light goes out it runs real bad.

Get it scanned for the codes that are turning the light on. That will point you toward a possible solution. It could be almost anything from a short in a sensor that makes the ECM use stored data that makes it run better to a failing fuel pump module or pressure sensor. But getting the code(s) is where to start.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing
I would start by reading the codes and post the exact code number not code descriptions. I posted our guide on how to do it or a auto parts store will read them for free. But it is good to have to your code reader that can read some live data.

Engine Mechanical problem
1999 Isuzu Rodeo Question 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic
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JUST STARTED RUNNING ROUGH AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS FLASHING

HI there,

The first thing to do is get the code extracted and address that issue first, it may be a very simple problem like a faulty plug or lead, but have the scan done first.

Mark (mhpautos)

My check engine light has been coming on-will stay on for a day or two or three at the most and then go off for a while. This started in December, happened once-happened again in February. This month it has been on more than off so I finally went to have the codes checked. The Tech pulled code:

P0 0401
EGR Flow insufficient

Further diagnositcs are needed. (OUCH!!!)

Any suggestions before I open pandora's box and my bank account? Where should I start? Like many people, I am paycheck to paycheck and will need to budget for any major expenses. I am not mechanically inclined, but do know several people who are.

I have a couple of road trips planned soon, 700-1000 miles each. Other than fuel economy am I going to hurt anything by not having this fixed right away?

Start by checking the EGR could be all clogged-up with carbon and inspect its passages or might not be coming On when needed.

My check engine light came on. Oxygen sensor and AB something valve replaced. Check engine light came on again. A 2nd oxygen sensor was replaced. Now, the CEL just came on again. After $400 of repairs, Help! Please.

Hi there,

You will have to get the code identified to see where the problem is located.

Mark (mhpautos)

can i use the key,on/off,trick to make engine light flash?

Engine Performance problem 1998 Isuzu Rodeo Question 6 cyl Manual 80603 miles Bought 1998 Isuzu Rodeo from used car dealer (in NY) at 77,900 miles for $4,300. Did oil change within a week after getting the car. During the course of owning the car, several times the Check Engine light would come on and then went off on its own. The car now has 80,600 miles. Brought back to dealer within 60 days cause the car's engine started knocking, roughly a month after oil change. We added 2 bottles of engine oil but the knocing did not go away. We stopped driving the car and brought it back. After having dealer's appointed mechanic to look at it, turns out the engine is gone, and we've been driving the car with NO OIL. Now dealer offering to install a used engine but we need to pay $1,300 for the engine, and the dealer will cover $1,000 labor. Our car is under 3,000 miles and still within 60-day warranty but dealer said they're not covering damages to the car due to owner negligence. They said it was our fault to drive with no oil in engine, and it's generous of them to offer to cover $1,000 labor. The used engine will have ONE YEAR warranty. The car is in great condition inside and out, dealer gave us brand new brakes before we drove off the lot. Question is, should we invest $1,300 or just get rid of this car such as selling the parts. Is the dealer doing the right thing by covering only partial instead of the full cost of fixing the engine? We're not mechanics, don't know much about cars (but we do get oilchange when it's due) and we trusted the car to have no problem since we did the oil change, etc. Please help us!

Hi kibibe,

Thank you for the donation.

The engine seldom fails if proper maintenance checks are done. In your case it could be oil was being consumed due to a bad engine or during oil chenge insufficient oil was added or there is a leak somewhere. Insufficient oil has damaged the bearings resulting in the knocking noise.

There is no way you can tie it up to a bad engine when it was sold to you as did not encounter any problems in the intial period. WHen engine are bad as in your case, it would fail rather quickly.

Under such circumstances, the dealer is right in refusing to accept liability. Their willingness to bear the labor cost shows goodwill on their part.

As the vehicle is still in good condition, spending $1300 to get the engine replaced would be a good option as it is going to last you for a long time to come.

With a bad engine, scrapping the vehicle is not going to get you back a lot of money.

When Check Engine Lights shows, it is recommended to get a scan done to check what is causing the problem. Such happenings should always be looked into and oil level sholud be checked on a regular basis.

My truck stalled at a red light today, started right back up. When I got thru the light I pulled over to see what the problem was. As I was stting there ideling, the truck was surging. The RPM'S were pulsating between about 500-1500. Although the surging has seemed to have stopped, my check engine light has come on. Any ideas what I should check before taking to a repair shop. Thanks

Could be the idle air control valve/motor ISC, if you scan the computer for OBD2 code/s it might tell you where its actually coming from.

Engine Performance problem
1997 Isuzu Rodeo Question 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

I just purchased a 97 Rodeo with 150000 miles and read the handbook. It states that if the oil pressure does not increase on the gauge when speed has increased then to not drive it, immediately. I had noticed that the gauge read a little less than halfway the whole 15 mile drive home. Do I have a problem? Also about halfway home the Check engine light came on, and stayed.

Hi there,

Thank you for the donation,

You will need to do two things here, first have the engine oil pressure tested with a mechanical gauge, this will give you the actual pressure readings, and get a scan done to see what the set fault code is that has activated the check light, do this first.

mark (mhpautos)

yeah my 97 isuzu rodeo is having some difficulties, transmission is not shifting when it needs to be, its winding down gears when it should be engaging the clutch. also as i was driving the other day my check engine light came on and a few seconds later my check transmission light came on, no noises no grinding no nothing...same as it was before the lights came on. other than those issues...the throttle response isnt good, and the engine is'nt producing its max power and for some reason its averaging below 10 if not right on 10 mph...something is wrong with it.

Hi there, the first thing you need to do is get a scan done and see what all the fault codes are, get them check or post them here for more information.

mark (mhpautos)

No check engine light, only oxygen sensor light. there are no error code on the obd1. gas milage has drop 30 %.no smelly fumes from the exhaust. vehicle runs good, just uses a lot more fuel.All other sensor seem to be working and there is no starting issues.

Which engine do you have?
I believe that is the catalytic converter sensor you are refering to. Which sensor did you replace?

2.6l 4 cylinder. only one sensor, I think

Yours should be the early production model and there is a cancel switch within the meter cluster that you have to switch to turn the light off. This indicator would come on after a certain mileage but should have nothing to do with fuel consumption.

Was anything else done prior to this occurring?
Is the replacement O2 sensor of the correct specification?

Hello,

My parents own a 1995 Isuzu Rodeo with a 2.6 engine. The check engine light is on and the engine stalls. Do I need to purchase a scanner or is there a way to get the codes by having the check engine light flash the fault codes? If there is a way to get the codes directly from the check engine light flashes, whats the method in doing so? Also, where can I get the corresponding description of fault codes?

Thank you

Herb

Use the directions i posted to get your codes let me know what the numbers are and i will get you the trouble tree's for the code's.

So it appears from the picture that there are leads already attached to the car and all i need to do is connect the two in order to retrieve the codes? Also, where do I get the corresponding description for the code?

Thanks

Herb

Yes you would connect those two leads together and follow the directions i posted.After you get the code numbers let me know what they are and i will give you the trouble trees for them.I get them from a pay website that we use to answer questions on here.It's www.ondemand5.com but you have to pay to use it to get information.

Thanks saturntech9. I am in Houston, Tx and my parents live in the Albuquerque area in New Mexico. It won't be out there until probably in July. Can I get back with you then and let you know what the codes are?

Thanks

Herb

Dear 2 Car Pros:
Mi 1995.5 Isuzu: 2 wheel drive, 4 cil., 2.6 lts. 180,000 miles keeps showing "check engine light" whenever I am riding at 30 to 40 mph in 3rd gear, 40 to 50 mph in 4th gear and 50 to 60 mph in 5th gear. At the same time, it can't pick up speed when this happens.
However, if I lift the foot from the gas pedal the light turns off and when I press it again it works fine for several minutes, until it lights up again if I didn't speed up.
It also turns off if I floor the gas pedal and the engine revs up (with a strange noise) to the upper speed shown above.
My mechanic doesn't find anything wrong with the engine, and since the light doesn't remain on, he can't retrieve any codes.
It only does this (light on and power diminished) within those speeds in those gears, and it's very bothering not to rely in a quick response, as I had for many years.
Please help, this problem have been going on for 3 or 4 months already.

You sure can just post your code's on this question were talking on and i will get you that info.

You need to get a scan done to extract the fault codes as indicated by the check light, do this first and post the codes here for further assistance.

Who does these scans?
And the light being off (except on those speed/gear situations)doesn't prevent the computer to show any fault codes?
I am an ignorant in the subject, I only know (and trust) one mechanic and he told me he could not read it.
I am trying to find out before having to resort to the dealer, who would cost me half the value of the car.

I was able to retrieve the code. Code 44: fuel metering system incorrect signal (lean).
I've already replaced the oxygen sensor with a new Bosch unit and still has signal. These are the symptoms: starts and idles beautifully and no check engine light. During a normal acceleration the engine stumbles, check engine light comes on and only by pumping the accelerator does it seem to temporarily help. What could be causing stumbling? Is there more than one ox sensor on these 2.6 engines? P.S. Ox sensor light is on all the time but I was told it has to be manually reset under dash. Could this be causing the problem?

many larger parts stores do scans, but they don't often know exactly what they are doing, this should be done by a qualified mechanic, if your can't he may be able to suggest one he knows to do it.

Does it still set the code 44?Thats probably why the o2 sensor light is on.Do you have a multimeter?Your going to have to go thru the trouble tree for the code 44.

I am a little disappointed with the answers. That I needed a scan I knew before asking the question, and that a qualified mechanic (Isuzu) will do it I also knew. I asked the question to get an idea of what could be the problem, not to refer me back to the dealer mechanic; which was what I was trying to avoid.
But well, have a dinner with my contribution, anyway.

You have a check engine light On-its a must to have it scanned for code/s, this is the starting point of diagnosis

You can try testing the throttle and vehicle speed sensors

One day i was driving my Isuzu rodeo and it lost power. I turned my car off and restarted it and it started moving as if it is in winter mode. The car has 4 dash lights that say (Check Engine, Check Transmission, Power & Winter). These lights come on when u start the car and go away after start. These lights stopped working after I lost power, and now my rodeo starts in winter mode (starts in 3rd gear). It starts slow but once i reach 20 MPH it drives fine. Also if I used 1-2-3-D gears it works fine and there is a lot of power. I took it to a mechanic and he said there is something electrical and another mechanic said that the transmission is out. Please suggest as to what the problem might be.

Hi arorabhans, Thank you for the donation. Since trans can be manually shifted, it is not likely to be the trans that is at fault but rather the control system that has encountered an error. The following link explains how to retrieve for trouble codes as the CEL and CTL indicator lamp are illuminating. Codes for the CEL and CTL arer read the same way but they should not be mixed. Get it done and let me know what the codes are. https://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd1_trouble_codes/isuzu_codes.htm

The trans is in limp mode so DO NOT attempt to drive it automatically as it can cause the clutches to burn off due to the gears not shifting.

My check engine light comes on and stays on for a little whille then goes off, I don't seem to see or feel any power loss, however my voltage amps go down and I have noticed that if I run the lights,heater, and or anything else electrical it will really loose voltage. Could this be the alternator?