Can replaced alternators go bad in 6 months - I need to replace it again!

Yes is can if it tests weak these guides will help us with instructions on how to replace the alternator in the diagrams below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

I replaced my alternator and it still puts out the same voltage as my old alternator of 12 volts. I have no idea what to do next.

Good afternoon,

Is the light on for the alternator?

There is a ELD or electronic load detector in the fuse box that is a common failure for not charging.

I attached a diagram for you. Check and make sure there is power to the unit and a ground.

In most cases, it is a blown fuse in the fuse box caused by a failing alternator.

Roy

Thank you so much. there was a fuse that was blown. I didn't know that there was a fuse for the alternator, but I do now. I am going to replace it tonight and see how it goes. Thanks again .

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy

I had the alternaor replaced, speedometer stopped working suddently (needle just dropped), that alternaor was bad, then car wouldn't start, had it replaced again. Then next day it actted like it didn't want to go when I accelerated, then it kept dying, had to jump it but it would immedicately die. Mechanic told me to replace alternaor fuse, which I did ( a couple of times) had battery put on charger, replaced alternator fuse with a 30 amp. Mechanic said it was wires touching. Next day car was hesitating when I accelorated, but it didn't die, it eventually kicked in, but the odometer ( which hadn't been working) went crazy, the needle jumped all the way around past 120mph. Yesterday it hesitated a little bit but not as bad. I have noticed that the odomer only works when I am having this problem with the car, otherwise it doesn't work at all. Any ideas as to what it could be?

scan for codes it may be a bad speed sensor or wires melted there

The mechanic said he checked the speed sensor. What do you mean scan for codes?

I fyour service light is on then take to an auto parts they do it for free.

Electrical problem
1998 Honda Civic 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual
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How do I remove the alternator?
I have gotten the alternator loose from everything, but theres no space to pull it out at, so really Im just asking were do I pull it out at?

Hi StephenCCC,

You got a 6 cylinder engine?

Can you please tell me what is the best way to go about replacing an alternator on a 1998 honda civic?

you must do it from under the car. id suggest getting it on jack stands, remove drivers wheel and the splash shield, you will be surprised how much access this will give you. once you have it unbolted you must twist and turn alternator to snake it out through the bottom. not too difficult of a job. i hope this helps

i changed my alternaqtor and it still not chageing my battry why

Check for loose generator belt, charging resistance too high, defective generator, loose generator ground wire, corroded battery terminals or faulty generator Turn ignition on. If CHARGE warning light illuminates, go to next step. If CHARGE warning light does not illuminate, check for blown fuse No. 15 (7.5-amp) in instrument panel fuse/relay block. Check for blown charging system light bulb. If fuse and light bulb are okay, repair open in White/Blue wire. Start engine. If CHARGE warning light does not turn off, go to next step. If CHARGE warning light turns off, perform generator/regulator test. See Ensure ignition is on. Check voltage between generator 4-pin connector terminal No. 1 (Black/Yellow wire) and ground. If battery voltage exists, go to next step. If battery voltage does not exist, repair open in Black/Yellow wire between generator and instrument panel fuse/relay block. Turn ignition off. Disconnect generator 4-pin connector. Ground generator connector terminal No. 3 (White/Blue wire). Turn ignition on. If CHARGE warning light illuminates, go to next step. If CHARGE warning light does not illuminate, repair open in White/Blue wire between CHARGE warning light and instrument panel fuse/relay block. Remove ground from generator connector terminal No. 3 (White/Blue wire). If CHARGE warning light turns off, test and repair generator components. If CHARGE warning light is still illuminated, repair short to ground in White/Blue wire

what tools would i need to replace the alternator?

Hi marievel,

Just simple hand tools.
10, 12, 14 mm hex spanner.

1997 Honda Civic EX

I have the alternator detached, but can not remove from engine compartment, stuck between engine, fuel injector bar, master cylinder and wheel well. Also tried out the bottom. Any ideas? The fuel injector bar was not there it would come out, but...

Hi toddmanz,

Thank you for the donation.

Remove the master cylinder holding bolts and pull it outwards to gain additional space to get the alternator out. Be careful not to damage the brake hoses by bending them too abruptly.

Engine Mechanical problem
1997 Honda Civic 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual

I am having trouble removing my alternator from the car.
I have successfully unscrewed all of the bolts and screws keeping it on, and unplugged everything that needs to be unplugged.

The only problem is, is now i can't get the alternator out! It won't fit through the top, and the axle is in the way of the bottom. So it's stuck, and i want to know if there is any tricks to getting it out.

I am currently having the exact same problem...did you have any success ?

thanks, Scott

[quote:357910c05b="sajanisch"]I am currently having the exact same problem...did you have any success ?

thanks, Scott[/quote:357910c05b]

I did have luck actually.
You must be VERY careful, I just undid the two bolts holding the main brake cylinder on. Then after pulling it free, I CAREFULLY pushed it towards the passenger's side (be careful! As you probably know, you don't want to kink any of your brake lines) while you're pushing it towards the passenger side, you need to have another person pull the alternator out through the top.

There was also a lot of having to push tubes out of the way.

My car has a electrical problem. Recently the headlights and the cluster are dimmed and the speed and rpm odometer were dead. I recently changed the alternator, battery, and check all the fuses. However, my car has a kill switch and an alarm install. it was not professor installation. There were smoke coming from inside the dash. What are the possibilities. Could it be some of the wires touching each other such as negative and positive wires. I had check everything that i can think off besides testing all the wires for voltage.

Thanks

It's impossible for me to say with certainty what your problem is, but anytime there's smoke from a circuit, it's bacuse the wires have shorted (to ground or each other), or a component has failed.

If your wires shoted, it should've poped a fuse. Otherwise, they would've burned completely and possibly started a fire.

You should take your cluster apart and have a look.

a loud buzz through the stereo with engine RPM I replaced alternator buzz still there. Removed alt belt no noise. What next help

Is it a stock Honda stereo or aftermarket?

Sounds like the connection to the antenna is picking up the noise. Check to make sure it is all the way in. Also, you can wrap some metal insulation tape around the connector base to try and help with the problem.

I have a 1994 Honda Civic LX with 183000miles. I am trying to get the alternator off. My problem is the pivot bolt. How does it come out? I have tried everything I can think of and it will not move. I have taken the nut off and the alternator moves back and forth, but the bolt will not come out. I have hammered on it, lubed it up well, and it still will not back out.
I have tried to get the alternator bracket off but it is impossible to get a wrench on the bolt head that is directly under the alternator.
Any help would be appreciated.
So the main question is "how do I get the pivot bolt to back out?"

Try soaking it down with liquid wrench and then you will need to get physical with it. Another method is to heat the joint with a torch but you want to be careful about fuel in the area and overheating. It is frustrating.

i have a 1991 honda civic si, 100,000 kms.
i am changing my alternator and i have it detached and freefloating in the engine but can't find a large enough space to bring it up through the top, or drop it through the bottom. what is the best method?

[quote:5975edd800="[email protected]"]i have a 1991 honda civic si, 100,000 kms.
i am changing my alternator and i have it detached and freefloating in the engine but can't find a large enough space to bring it up through the top, or drop it through the bottom. what is the best method?[/quote:5975edd800]

I had a 1991 civic and it took me a while but I removed it through the left rear of the engine. where the transmission is mounted.

I have a 1991 Honda Civic manual transmission with approx. 165,000 miles on it. I have had to replace the alternator and battery 3 times in 9 months. What could be causing the alternator to fail prematurely?

Hi there,

Good question, are you going to the same workshop each time? maybe their testing is some what questionable, normally an alternator should be fine for a very long time, possible if there is a short somewhere it may be blowing a diode or affecting the regulator, they should be checking these things and not throwing a new part at it just to get it going. Start asking questions and maybe try a different work shop next time.

Mark (mhpautos)

Electrical problem
1991 Honda Civic 4 cyl Manual 114,00 miles

I am a novice car person and I am trying to find information for replacing the alternator on my car. I need to know the tools that I need, the belts that I need, which alternator you would recommend (Brand). Half the stuff I read says to take of the drivers side wheel, the others don't. Can you please give me as much details (with exception to opening the hood and unplugging the battery) that you can to help me out? I can't afford to have someone do it, I have already gone through two other cars since summer and I'm about tapped out. Thank you so much for your help!

Hi wildhrt98, Disconnecting the alternator is one thing. Taking it out from the engine compartment is another. Removing the brake master would increase the access for you to take the alternator out. Do not disconnect the brake lines, just remove the 2 holding bolt of the master cylinder and you can pull it out to gain clearance. REMOVAL 1. Disconnect the ground wire from the battery negative (-) post. See Fig. 9 . 2. Disconnect the alternator connector from the alternator. 3. Remove the terminal nut and the WHT wire from the B terminal. 4. Remove the adjusting bolt and alternator nut, then remove the alternator belt from the alternator pulley. 5. Remove the alternator through bolt, then remove the alternator. 6. If necessary, remove the mount bracket bolts, and the upper and lower mount brackets. INSTALLATION For installation, reverse removal procedure. Adjust the alternator belt tension after installation.

I have an alternator problem. We bought the car & a week lator the alternator stopped charging the battery. The battery charge got so low that we couldnt even jump it to move it. We put another alternator in the car, and a week later, that alternator also went out. What is wrong?? And also, will a 1987 Honda Civic alternator replace the alternator in this car??

Was the replacement alternator new or used?

Did you charge the battery before using the replacement alternator? An alternator is not designed to charge a dead battery.

The alternator was used...they told us it was in working condition. Yes...the battery was completely charged up because we had the battery tested before we bought a new alternator.