engine shut down

You could have a lot of issues but lets start here:

Check to see if the ignition system produces a spark when you attempt to start the engine. (If so, you can rule out ignition system problems)

this guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Next, squirt a little gasoline or starting fluid into the intake manifold to see if it starts then. (If not, you can rule out fuel system problems)

Check the engine oil to see if there is water (engine coolant) mixing with it. (If so, the oil will be a tan/milky color) If the oil and water are mixing, you have a warped cylinder head or blown head gaskets.
In the case of the 2.2L engine, is likely a warped head, causing compression loss and thus preventing the engine from starting.

What's the repair cost of a warped cylinder head?

Is it possible that I just need to get the hose replaced? And then add some coolant back into the reservoir? I suppose I'm looking for any luck here with minimal damage done.

It does look like I've pulled a wire out from somewhere

The cost of repairing a warped cylinder head varies depending on your location.
Around here its about a $700 to $1000 job. Don't think that a hose will fix this. However, if you have a hose that's obviously broken, fix it as well.

99 gmc 4.3 L vortec. Before overdrive kicks in on the highway the truck slightly sputters at higher rpm. Then when coming to a stop it sometimes dies. Any thoughts ? Im leaning toward timing or air flow. Not sure if it pertains to the issue but it kicked a code for O2

you can't do anything with the timing. try cleaning the throttle plate on both sides and iac hole with choke cleaner. it may be a switch problem in trans or slow application of overdrive.

My truck started shutting off and stalling. It happened twice in a three week period. I changed the fuel pump less than a year ago. I was told to change the fuel filter and so I took the advice but now the truck will not start. I have tried spraying gas in the injectors and it will start but will not stay running. Please help.

check your fuel pressure, if you got a h arness with pumpand didn't put it on that may be your problem or you could have a broken wire in the tank as well as the pump may have fell off it's mount...

stopped running while driving and now i cant get it started battery is dead i have been jumping it and i have checked fues and the fuel filter all good but no fuel is getting to the port that u would put a gauge on not sure what else to do please help me

The first thing that you need to do is get your battery charged. Also you will want to have your alternator checked.
After it is charged try to start it again and see what happens. It is possible that its just a battery/alternator problem.

ok the battery is charging right now and i know its possible but the alt is new and checks out i just bought a fuel filter going to try that

ok well i have changed the icm and that didnt work and i have no spark now but getting spark from coil pack going to try and change cap and rotor in morning but dont know what else to try oh yea checked to see if timig chain broke but its good

Does it turn over good and strong now?

i got it fixed it was the coil pack that was bad thanks for the help

I'm glad it's fixed. Let me know if you need anything else.

96 gmc sonoma 2 w/d 2.2l 4 cylinder So I can start the vehicle and run it for 10 miles, then it shuts down, nothing. All electronics work, turns over, but you wait between 10-30 minutes and it startys up again, but you wont get but maybe 4-5 miles then it does the same thing. I have replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, Oil pressure sensor, coils, ignition control module, checked the grounds to body, block, frame, I thought maybe it was the CAT, so i took the o2 sensor out still stalled. Whats funny, this is why i thought it was the ignition control module, is you can dump water on the module and it will fire up, Im at a loss, could it be the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor? And what about a plugged cat, would taking out the o2 sensor help determine if that it was plugged or not. Also no codes are being displayed before, after, during, nothing. And there is no check engine and no warning sign that its going tom stall, except maybe it gets a lil rough idling but very little, oh i also replaced spark plugs. Thanks help me before i set thyis bastard ablaze, so damn frustrating

Have you checked for trouble codes? Have you checked the crank sensor?

No codes, during a stall, after or before. But why would the crankcase position sensor be the problem if while the vehicle is stalled, I can take a jug of water and dump it on that ignition control module and it will fire up? Thats what I dont understand. And since i posted last, I installed a new thermostat (because the other one was just old) and i replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor. Now after replacing the ECT sensor, I have noticed increased driving distances in between stalls, and lot shorter downtimes while it is stalled. instead of average 15-20 min. It sometimes will fire up before I even stop coasting, but other times it could take 5-10 minutes. But it is an improvement, but Im still at a loss here

I understand what you are saying. You need to get a scanner and when it won't start, check to see if there is a signal from the crank sensor. I have seen them crack and when the get hot, they expand and the vehicle has a loss of spark.

Its fixed, finally, Now it could of been a combination of things or one thing. But I took out the Crankcase position sensor, and it was gummed up good, I cleaned it up and reinserted it, As i was doing that i noticed a couple drops of oil trickling down the block, the oil pressure sensor had oil coming out the male end of the plug,,,,So i took that out and replaced it. I drove it home that evening (34 miles total) but it was at night so i had no way of knowing if the issue was fixed. Today I racked off 145 miles of stall free driving. I almost nutted. Since I bought this truck 5 weeks ago, thats the first time Ive been able to drive it without stalling. Now I think I know why when i put water on the ignition control module that it would fire up, my theory is this, the module was probably fine, but since the crankcase position sensor sits right next to the module, it was the part that when cooled down allowed the car to operate not the module. So all in all to get this problem fixed I installed a fuel pump, fuel filter, oil pressure sensor, engine coolant temp. sensor, Air intake sensor, thermostat, spark plugs, ignition control module, coils, crankcase position sensor, fuel pump relay, cleaned the catalytic converter, re wired all grounds and pulled my hair out and cursed this truck to no end, but its running and damn fine i might add. But to be honest, im not sure what the fix really was, the oil pressure sensor, or the crankcase position sensor. So thanks for the help, but atleast i got the ignition control module and the coils for free, that was a huge savings..

Glad it's fixed.

Satrts fine, seems to stall more often during the heat of the day, some of the longest drive times ive had without stalling is when its been at night. There are no error codes being given during the event, before or after, nothing. By accident one time while filling the radiator the hose slipped from my hands and sprayed water all over the ignition control module (while the truck had just stalled minutes before) i went and it started right up, i let it run and waited for it to stall again, i then sprayed the ICM and waalaah it fired up. I repeated that process like 6 times so I thought i got it, its the ICM. NOPE, wrong, I changed it out with a new AC Delco OEM ICM, still stalls. So lets cover what I have replaced all new all OEM. Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, Oil Pressure Sensor, Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, Ignition Control Module, Thermostat, New Spark Plugs, Checked and cleaned grounding wires, Air Intake Sensor. Question could a clogged or damaged Catalytic converter cause these problems? If so could i just pull the o2 sensor to determine if that was the case? Cuz i did do that also. What about a crankcase Position Sensor? Could that be causing this nightmare? I am at my end I need this truck for work, and its absolutely killing me not being able to track this problem down. What about the PCM? anything any suggestions, I mean anything

Most of what you replaced won't cause stalling. The fact you proved it's temperature-related suggests the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. They often fail by becoming heat-sensitive, then work again when they cool down. The Engine Computer needs their signals to determine which cylinder to fire and when to fire the injectors and spark plugs. On some engines one failed sensor will lead to stalling and a failure to restart. On some engines they will continue running with one failed sensor but won't restart once they're turned off. Some engines will run, but poorly, with one failed sensor because it uses the other one to get as close as possible to the correct timing. Some engines use one sensor for spark timing and the other one for injector synchronization. Injector timing is much less critical than spark timing, so you often don't know there's a problem except for the fault code.

The best approach is to connect a scanner to view live data. It will usually show both sensors and whether a signal is being received from each one. When one is missing, check its connector first for signs of corrosion or stretched terminals.

you are right on the money my man, I didnt read your response until I just got home after i went and looked at the crankcase position sensor and it was gummed up and all sorts of nasty. I replaced it and vroooom, i drove 145 miles today no stalling. You are the only person to say, "the crankcase position sensor is "heat" sensitive. I have asked like 5 others should i be looking at that, and they said yes maybe but check this first, then id be going down a different road. But yes you are correct sir, it was the crankcase position sensor that was making my 1996 GMC Sonoma 2 wheel drive 2.2. l 4 cylinder truck stall intermittently. (I think i spelled intermittently correct) who cares the damn thing runs. MUAH....

First of all, "Sir" was my father. I may be forcibly retired, but I'm still a "boy". Second, there are only five people who are going to give you the wrong answer, and you found all of them. Third, I only know eight things, and your problem is one of them.

I'm happy to hear it's running.

I have a 1995 gmc sonoma that will start and then die almost right away. it will do this over and over eventually it will start. When it does start it barely runs for a few seconds and then runs fine. It runs fine while driving. Also It has a vaccumn leak in the a/c system that i need to fix because the vents have lost control(i don't know if this is part of the problem). Also the ignition module was replaced about 2 weeks ago because i thought this may be the cause of the problem. Once the engine is hot and warmed up it starts right up.

Ok I would first check the fuel pressure on this. Fist off you need to know what V-6 you have. If the 8th digit is a W then the fuel pressure needs to be 60psi to start and runs on 50-55 psi after that it is any less then it is very hard to start if it starts at all.
Now if it is a Z code then it only needs 9-13 psi of pressure to run. So I would check the pressure and make sure that the fuel pump is priming the lines on initial start up. Other question is how old is the fuel filter? GM seems to like to have the filter replaced yearly. Get back to me and we will go from there.

yeh sorry i forgot to put all the info. its a 4.3 with cpi injection vin w. the fuel pressure is fine i checked that its about 57 psi and i replaced the filter sometime later last year so it is fairly new. also last year i replaced the crank sensor the cam sensor and the catalytic converter is fairly new with about 30,000 miles on it so it probably has nothing to do with them.

Ok then if all that is good then lets check the coolant temp sensor first. I would like you to unplug it and set you meter to ohms and check the resistance of the sensor (not the wiring harness). Now if you do this when it cold then get back to me with the reistance and the outside air temp at the time of the test.

i think i may have solved the problem. GM has a service bulletin out for hard to start and rough idle on start up. The bulletin says that one ore more of the poppet nozzles in the spider injector may be sticking. I have run marvel oil along with lucas oils tune up in a bottle through the truck and it hasnt had the problem. Is it possible that this is the problem? However that may be because it has been warmer here lately, i bought a coolant temperature sensor because it was only 10 bucks so i figure it can't hurt to just replace it. With my luck though i will probably be back

ok all of that seems to have solved the problem. I have one more problem to ask about. the truck has had a problem with the fuel pump relay for some time. occasionally the fuel pump will not work. if yo smack the relay a bit it will start working again. The relay has been replaced. At one time the relay would make a buzzing sound. Is this due to a bad ground? If so which contact on the relay block wiuld i need to repair the ground on. The relay block has constant power to it on the bottom right contact point. ant it has power to the top right when the ignition switch is turned. The center right contact has no power or ground so i assume this is a wire run to the ecu. the two far left contacts have a ground but i believe one of them is faulty which would i need to repair?

Wow funny that was going to be the next try as that is true and if that didn't fix it then it was to pull of the upper plenum and look to see if the fuel lines had cracked as this is also a comon problem. As for the ground it is tied in with the harnes and go to the right rear cylinder head. It is the A1 term off the relay if that helps. Let me know where you want to go from here. Glad to hear it is starting better.

new head, idle control valve, pcv, runs great when running, no power loss, no noises, cuts out when it reaches about 100 degrees or 2-3 min from a cold start.its very sporadic after that, it will do it anytime , any rpm range, but if im on the highway it wont completely die. it just cuts out, and i lose everything for a second and then get it back.please help...

thank you for all of your help. I ran Marvel Mystery trough the Fuel system. Tuned it up just changed the fuel filter the plugs and wires changed the air filter and fixed the vaccumn leak and changed the temperature sensor. It has never run or idled better. haha it seems i have a never ending list of problems when i was scanning for codes it pulled p1864,p1886, p0753 and p0758 i know these are transmission codes and have to do with the shift solenoids. Do you have any tips or suggestions on how to solve the problems?

Wait like your truck just dies randomly? If so that almost sounds like a fuel pressure problem. I have a few tests for that..

1. make sure fuel pump runs
If running:
2. remove quick disconnect from fuel filter, let fuel drain out, reconnect the line, and turn key to ignition(turning fuel pump on). Then check that line again, fuel should come out. Also check your Fuel Pressure Regulator located near cylinder 1, opposite of plug. Remove the little line(be careful they are hard plastic lines!) when you try to start no fuel should come out. (fuel coming out means FPR is broken)

Try to hit back with some more info ill try to help u out. I got a 97 sonoma with a hell of a lot of problems.. my post is 97 sonoma... :p

Oh and the cutting out, does that only happen in neutral? or while you are still in gear? Mine cuts out in neutral for about the first 1-5mins UNTIL it is warm im gonna replace my IAC sensore see if that helps me any.

Ok first I would clear them and do a trans service if it has been awhile. If you haven't done it a couple of yrs then it is time anyway. So get a filter and gasket kit and fluid (dextron 3) 6 qts. remove the trans pan and filter and then replace with new and then start with 5 qts of fluid and start it and run throught the gears (no need to drive it) then put in park and with it running check the fluid level and top off as needed. Then see what codes come back and we can check it from there.

Hey before you do IAC or Idle Control Valve, I just tested my ICM Ignition Control Module at the parts store and it was bad. Its underneath the coil packs on the 2.2 L easist to take off whole thing (3 bolts for the ICM and coil packs attached to it). Typically goes bad about 100,000 miles or more when dielectric grease dries up between ICM and mounting Plate. Sorry it took this long, I'll try to check back sooner.

wait did you find out the problem to your rough idel/ instant dying?

I have a 4cyl sonoma with exact same problem. I replaced so much stuff on it, i was told it sounds like a IAC sensor which may sound about right. But i just got done doing cylinder head. I have no clue what the problem is with this thing, but like you said it will die right away, and once its warm has virtually no problem. I thought origionally O2 sensor but that throws a engine code(which i dont have showing)..

Post back on my 97 sonoma... with the solution to your starting problem.

Much appreciated man

what exactly have you replaced? mine just needed a tune up it was just a whole bunch of little things. does your 4 cyl have a distributor ignition system. if so you may want to check the timing as it could be slightly off

as for your fuel pump. I replaced my fuel pump (4cyl 2.2l sonoma), and inside the new pump box there was a note to replace one of the connectors to th e fuel pump because GM said " It tends to lose connection and arc back and forth, thus causing the plug to melt itself to the fuel assembly--big problem...) That may be your problem.

This happens with every time, worse when colder outside.
1) Start Vehicle and warm up for about 1 minute
2) Put vehicle into gear and idle drops way down then comes back up
3) Leave then approach a stop, about 1 mile away
4) When braking to a stop, when almost stopped, idle surges way up (dangerous)
5) Idle cycles up and down gradually stabilizing
6) As engine warms up, this effect gradually goes away

1) This problem is not related to EGR valve, as it has been replaced and cleaned many times without ever changing above symptoms
2) This problem has occured for many years
3) Definately worse with cold outside temperature
4) Seems like computer thinks outside temperature is much warmer than it really is

Any ideas?