Water Pump removal - problems?

Hello,

Here is a guide to show you what you are in for when doing the job with diagrams below to show you how on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/water-pump-replacement

Here are directions for your car.

Water Pump
Removal

Drain engine cooling system as described.

Release drive belt tensioner (6B209) and remove drive belt (8620) .
Remove the upper radiator hose from the water pump connections.

Remove the crankshaft pulley.

Disconnect lower radiator hose from water pump.

Disconnect heater hose from water pump.

Remove A/C compressor to water pump brace.

Remove two bottom nuts retaining water pump (8501) to engine and remove water pump .

Lower vehicle.

Remove two top nuts retaining water pump to engine.

Remove the water pump from vehicle.

Installation

Place water pump onto engine and carefully install into position until seated.

Install two top retaining nuts. Tighten to 20-30 Nm (15-22 lb-ft).

Raise vehicle.

Install two bottom retaining nuts. Tighten to 20-30 Nm (15-22 lb-ft).

Install radiator and heater water hose to the water pump . Position clamps securely.

Install A/C compressor to water pump bracket. Tighten bolts to 20-30 Nm (15-22 lb-ft).

Install the crankshaft pulley.
Install the upper radiator hose to water pump.

Install drive belt .

CAUTION: Use extreme care to keep coolant mixture off of the drive belt and pulleys. If needed, remove drive belt and rinse with clear water. Clean pulleys and install drive belt. Belt squeal and early belt fatigue will occur otherwise.

Fill engine cooling system


Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

want to verify if water pump impellars have failed, (no heat and temp bottoms out at hwy speed) not sure how to check this system, water doesn't appear to circulate like a normal system due to the overflow tank tie in. doesn't have the normal in/out hoses should there be a visible flow with the cap off the tank? tank has 2 small overflow feeders on top and a primary at the bottom feeding the radiator.

You can remove the upper radiator hose, put something on the ground to catch the coolant and start the engine to see if it's circulating. You will have to wait until the thermostat opens and keep feeding water to the radiator to be sure it doesn't run out. Other than that, removing the pump is the only way to find out. This does happen to fords more than any other make.

Engine Cooling problem
1998 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive

is it difficult to change the water pump on the 3.0?

REMOVAL: 1.Drain engine cooling system. 2.Release drive belt tensioner and remove drive belt. 3.Remove radiator and water heater hose from the water pump connections. 4.Remove A/C compressor to water pump brace.

5.Remove four bolts retaining water pump to engine and remove water pump. INSTALLATION 1.Place water pump onto engine and carefully install into position until seated. 2.Install four retaining bolts. Tighten to 20-30 Nm (15-22 ft. lbs.). 3.Install radiator and heater water hose to the water pump. Position clamps securely.

4.Install A/C compressor to water pump bracket. Tighten bolts to 20-30 Nm (15-22 ft. lbs.). 5.Install drive belt. 6.Fill engine cooling system. CAUTION: Use extreme care to keep coolant mixture off of the drive belt and pulleys. If needed, remove drive belt and rinse with clear water. Clean pulleys and install drive belt. Belt squeal and early belt fatigue will occur otherwise.

how do you get a water put hose off water pump on a 1997 ford taurus.

First, you need to remove the clamp that attaches it to the pump. Once it is off, twist the hose. The hoses get corroded in place from years of use. If you can't get it to turn by hand, use a large pair of channel locks to twist the hose on the housing. Once it turns, it should pull off.

NOTE: Make sure the hose clamp is removed or loose enough to pull over the small flange at the end of the water pump inlet / outlet. Also, if you plan to replace the hose, you can use a utility knife to cut the hose where it attaches to the pump and peel it off.

My waterpump is leaking. I am in the process of replacing it. My manual (chilton) says that you are to apply pipe sealent to bolt # 3. Unfortunatly the picture points to a bolt that is not on the waterpump.

I went online to our local library. The on-line repair manual said the same thing except the picture did not have any holes numbered. I think # 3 is actually the rear most (toward the passengers) bolt. I think I saw some water comming out when I removed it. Is that bolt #3? And if I am not sure does it hurt to put some pipe dope on all the rear M8 bolts.

Thanks
Dan

Hi there,

You can put a small amount of thread sealer on all the bolts,but just probe each bolt hole with a length of wire and the hole that dose not bottom out (there abouts bolt length) is the one that will require sealant as it goes into the water jacket.

Mark (mhpautos)

what does the water pump assembly look like, especdially the hose router attached to it.i

heater hose from the top of the water pump

water pump

removing the water pump from the engine

cleaning the water pump mounting surfaces

I’ve drained the coolant, removed the coolant reservoir and removed the drive belt but I’m unsure of how to remove the water pump itself. From what I can see it seems impossible with conventional tools. I can only access 3 of the bolts mounting the pump to its housing and the bolts that I assume mount the whole thing to the engine are blocked by various things such as the power steering fluid line. Any procedure or tool suggestions would be much appreciated.

Hello my name is Dave.

I have attached a diagram and instructions for replacing the water pump on your car.
Here are the instructions;
REMOVAL
1. Drain engine coolant.
2. Release drive belt tensioner and remove accessory drive belt. Refer to Engine.
3. Remove radiator and water heater hose from the water pump connections.
4. Remove A/C compressor to water pump brace.
5. Remove four bolts retaining water pump to engine and remove water pump.

INSTALLATION
1. Place water pump onto engine and carefully install into position until seated.
2. Install four retaining bolts. Tighten to 20-30 Nm (15-22 ft. lbs.).
3. Install radiator and heater water hose to the water pump. Position clamps securely.
4. Install A/C compressor to water pump bracket. Tighten bolts to 20-30 Nm (15-22 ft. lbs.).
5. Install accessory drive belt.

CAUTION: Use extreme care to keep coolant mixture off of the drive belt and pulleys. If needed, remove drive belt and rinse with clear water. Clean pulleys and install drive belt. Belt squeal and early belt fatigue will occur otherwise.

6. Fill engine cooling system with coolant.

I have attached the diagrams below
I hope it helps and thank you for using 2CarPros!

Thanks for the help, though I still have a few questions. From what I can tell after looking at the pump again I don’t see the A/C compressor or bracket on the water pump, the water pump is fairly exposed. There is however the power steering fluid line in front of one bolt making it impossibly for my to fit a ratchet onto the bolt. What kind of tool or accessory can I use to help loosen the bolts?

Hello again, it's hard to tell from pics exactly how the hose/line is in the way or what type it is and I don't have one available to look at in person. It looks to me like if you use a swivel socket or a universal joint you should be able to get a socket and extension around the hose/line.
If you can't do that I would look for brackets that hold the hose so that you can move it out of the way, you shouldn't have to move it much to gain access to the bolts.

Engine Cooling problem
1995 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

Hey Guys I have a small problem, I was doing a AC switch out and noticed a have a small drip of Antifreeze that Leaks from the water Pump Housing, not the Pump it self but from the water Pump Housing. What All is involed in Taking the housing off to Replace that Gasket. Do I have to mess with any of the timing Housing in order to get it off? Im fairly good with a tool but Ive never had to remove the pump housing before on a Taurus. Thanx for any info you can on this......

Thanks for that info. You're still going to need to remove the water pump, because the pump housing gasket is underneath the pump. Removal and installation procedures are as follows: REMOVAL: Disconnect the negative battery cable, then place a drain pan under the radiator drain cock. Carefully remove the radiator cap, then open the drain cock on the radiator and drain the cooling system. Loosen the four water pump pulley retaining bolts while the accessory drive belts are still tight Loosen the alternator belt adjuster jack screw to provide enough clearance for the removal of the alternator belt. Using a 1 / 2 in. breaker bar, rotate the automatic tensioner down and to the left. Remove the power steering/air conditioner belt. Remove the two nuts and bolt retaining the drive belt automatic tensioner to the engine, then remove the tensioner. Disconnect and remove the lower radiator and heater hose from the water pump. Remove the eleven water pump-to-engine retaining bolts, then lift the water pump and pulley up and out of the vehicle.

INSTALLATION: Clean the gasket surfaces on the water pump and front cover. Lightly oil all bolt and stud threads except those requiring special sealant. Position a new water pump housing gasket on the water pump sealing surface using Gasket and Trim Adhesive D7AZ-19B508-B or equivalent, to hold the gasket in place. Apply Pipe Sealant with Teflon D8AZ-19554-A or equivalent to bolt No. 3 (see fig.) before installation. With the water pump pulley and retaining bolts loosely installed on the water pump, align the water pump-to-engine front cover, then install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to the following specifications: Numbers 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm). Numbers 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15 to 71-106 inch lbs (8-12 Nm).

Hand-tighten the water pump pulley retaining bolts. Install the automatic belt tensioner assembly. Tighten the two retaining nuts and bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). Install the alternator and power steering belts. Final tighten the water pump pulley retaining bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (22-30 Nm). Position the hose clamps between the alignment marks on both ends of the hose, then slide the hose on the connection. Tighten the hose clamps to 20-30 inch lbs. (2.2-3.4 Nm). Fill and bleed the cooling system with the appropriate quantity and coolant type. Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for leaks

Maybe I have the wrong name for the gasket then, I circiled in red the gasket Im talking about, thats where I see the water driping at and the gasket that I need. Do you know the correct name of the gasket that would go where I put the red line at?

That's the front engine cover oil seal. It should leak oil, not coolant, if it has failed. You certain the coolant is leaking from that crack, or maybe just dripping down to that making it look that way?

Man I really appreciate your help on this. I will get a pic Tomorrow of where I see the small water drip laying at. Took rag and wiped it up and in 10-15 min I see it there again, thats not even having the car running or the water pump circulating and it still appears no matter how much I wipe lol, not a bunch maybe a few drops and thats it. But I will take a pic of where its at and maybe you can see what Im talking about. Talk with you then and again thanx a Million...

Tryed my Camera and cant get it to work, however after looking at it more I think the problem is the intake gasket or either the Head Gasket on cylinder 4-5-6 which is the front cylinder. I dont see any water at all in the oil and the Motor Ran perfect, what is the chance of it being just a small leak at the intake gasket? How hard is just that to change as I already have Dist out and the Fuel Injectors out, ran across a brand new set of injectors for 10 bucks and got them so i was gonna replace them. Also how much work is it to change the head gasket? I think water would be in the oil if that was bad wouldnt you?

If the head gasket has failed then yes, either coolant would leak from the water jackets of the head and mix with the engine oil, or vice versa..oil mixing into the coolant. Do you need the intake gasket replacement procedures since you said you have some parts already removed?

yes go ahead and send me the replacement procedure for the intake gaket procedure, would you change the head gasket as well even though there is no water in the oil? Cant be much more to take off to get the head off is there? Also would you just replace the cylinder (Head) that is leaking or would you go ahead and do both sides?

You should be able to buy an entire upper engine gasket set (intake, exhaust heads etc..) , normally when doing gasket repairs the most expensive part is the labor. Since you're doing the labor, it should be a rather cheap repair anyway.

FIG. 2

FIG. 3

FIG. 4

how do you take the clamp off the hose on the water pump there is no room to work cant put anything on to get it off

Hi there,

This will depend on the type of clamp fitted, if it has a hex head you will need a 1/4" drive socket set as this will often get into the very hard to reach spots you just have to look at all your options.

mark (mhpautos)

i need to know how to take a water pump off of 94 ford taurus 3.0 with ac

It should not be that hard of a job. However, I don't know if you work on cars and what your criteria for a bad job would be.

Without seeing your car, I am going to guess that it would be helpful to jack up the car and remove the wheel from the water pump side so you can do some or most of the work through the wheel well.

Break loose the bolts from the water pump pulley first, then take a ratchet or breaker bar and overcome the idler pulley to slip the fan belt off. Yank the pulley, take the pump bolts out (paying attention to the position and the length of the bolts in case they are not all the same.)

(I am assuming it was a given to drain the radiator first and into a clean bucket if you wanted to re-use it).

Before we go any farther, what is your car's problem? It may NOT be the water pump and this is a pain to do for nothing. I have NEVER seen a water pump go bad that did not leak around the water pump, so if you have a bad head gasket blowing exhaust pressure into the water jacket and causing coolant to not circulate and to overheat the engine, it may not be the water pump at all.

If you could give descriptive symptoms, I could be of better help.

Anyway, to continue, after the pump is out, scrape and clean surfaces with a razor blade and spray cleaner and rags.

When installing a new water pump, I put motor oil on all the bolts for the next poor soul 150,00 miles down the road. Also for me if I have to pull it off tomorrow.

Put a bead of high temp red or orange RTV silicone on both sides of the gasket. After you tighten the bolts, you can wipe off the "squease out" silicone or just leave it there to dry.

Good Luck! Without a description of you symptoms, I cannot tell you that the water pump is the real problem.

When someone asks, "How do you do this?", I start with "Why do you need to do this?".

Just trying to help,

Ken

Engine Cooling problem
1993 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

Ive got the pump all undone from the engine and now the bolts are too long and they wont allow it to come all the way off the car.

The water pump is bolted to the timing cover on the right side of the engine compartment. Most Taurus's came with either a 3.0 or a 3.8 engine. The water pump replacement is basically the same for both engines. Remove the coolant jug, break loose the bolts on the w/pump pulley, remove the belt, remove the pulley, remove the alternator, remove any tensioners or brackets that hang in the way, remove the bolts holding the water pump to the timing cover, and remove the water pump.

Note: a 3.8 has extra-long water pump bolts that you may have to pull almost all the way out and then bring them out with the water pump assembly.

I broke a stud while tryiny to remove water pump do i have to remove timing cover to remove broken stud?

if its one of the long bolts that goes throw the timing cover
yes timing cover need to be removed

thats what i thought, i was hoping i would'nt have to. Thank you, was help full

Engine Cooling problem
1990 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Need procedure and tips to remove and replace the water pump

REMOVAL Drain the engine coolant and disconnect the battery ground cable.

Water Pump Pulley Replacement Loosen the four water pump pulley retaining bolts, using the accessory belt tension to keep the pulley from turning. Loosen the alternator belt adjuster jack screw and remove the alternator belt. Using a 1/2" breaker bar rotate the automatic tensioner down and to the left. Remove the accessory drive belt. Remove the two nuts and single bolt retaining the automatic belt tensioner to the engine and remove the assembly. Remove the four water pump pulley bolts and remove the pulley from the vehicle. NOTE: On some vehicles the pulley will not have enough clearance to facilitate removal from the vehicle. In this case, allow the pulley to remain on the hub after the bolts have been removed. Remove the heater hose from the water pump. Water Pump Replacement

Remove the 11 water pump to engine retaining bolts and remove the water pump from the vehicle.