no pulse to injectors

Yes you could have a PCM power relay that is not working but here is a guide to help you test for pulse.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Please run down this guide and report back.

If you use a normal test light to test the injector pulsing, you are not going to get anything.

You need a noid light to detect the pulses.

So how do I test the ground driver of the computer, do i just follow the steps of disconnecting all the injector plugs and single test one by one until i loose signal to pin point the faulty injector, if so what does this have to do with the driver and how do i test the driver itself. Also whats the difference in a noid light and normal test light, and is it easy to find a noid light???

You can get the noid light from parts stores. Normal test lamp requies a high voltage to light and the pulsing of the injector circut is too fast for the test light to be able to show.

When engine is running, the computer wuld ground the injector circuit to operatethe injectors. Do you have battery voltage to the injector wire harness?

when you say battery voltage to the harness are you refering to voltage when the ignition switch is on not crancking if so than i do have battery voltage to the harness.

would it be perferable that i should use a volt meter instead when conducting the fuel injector test.

Use the noid lite on the injector harness if it doesn't flash its either no powwer to it or the computer is not driving it or wiring problem

I ran another test today i located a noid lite and conducted a test and this was my outcome. I first started with one injector it has constant power with ignition switch on (no cranking) i reversed polarity to test pulse power and initially found no pulse when cranking, i disconnected all injector wire harness and still got no pulse power during the cranking process. when ignition is in the on position and your just about to full turn key to crank engine it has a quick may quarter of a second power to pulse side, than as you continue to crank engine all power is like cut off. I had also connected a OBDII diagnostic reader and it pulled a code (fuel rail pressure sensor high output)i think if i rember correctly code was (P0194). after attempting these procedures i plugged back injectors and tried cranking engine again and it wanted to start(it almost started) but just couldnt get it to run. Please help me as to where will turn to next in checking or to diagnose, im getting lost here it seems at times.

sorry i got that trouble code wrong and data it said (P0193 – Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input) is this sensor located directly on top of the fuel rail (driver side) and what does this normally mean that this sensor needs replacing. also there were no other codes listed only this one.

P0193 can be due to disconnected fuel pressure sensor hose. It can also be caused by excessive cranking without engine starting so we should not worry about this as it is the injectors that are not working.

Lets try this.

With test light connected to injector RED wire.
Turn ignition on.
Test light should come on.
Crank engine.
Test light shoudl remain on. If not, you have a ower supply interruption and it could be a faulty ignition switch.

Disconnect injector wireharness.
Attach noid light across the two terminals.
While cranking engine, the noid light should flash, if not, the PCM is not grounding the circuit.

these steps steps you have listed i have tried and the results are as follows:
test light to red wire
ignition on
test light does come on
crank engine
light does stay on

i did disconnect injector wireharness
i attached noid lite
i started cranking engine and light for a less than short blink happened upon cranking and disappeared and never flashed after that.

if this means the pcm is not grounding the circuit what causes this to happen, when prior to this issue the car was parked only due to a power steering hose leak, car was running fine before i parked it. i guess thats besides the point what do i need to do next.

i feel that we are so close in getting my car started you guys have no idea how much you are really helping me and i appreciate all the diagnosing steps in walking me through so for now thanks for everthing and i will await you response as to what steps i should take next. PLEASE!!! and THANK YOU!!!!

While replacing the power steering hose, there could be some connectors or ground circuits that had been moved. Recheck those. A bad ground circuit or loose wire connectors can cause the problem.

Check the crank and cam sensors as well. The PCM needs input from these sensors to work the injectors and sparks.

I have tried tracing as much as i could all wires to check if any possible wires are disconnected and i finding a few wire connectors (male) that dont have any (female) atachment connectors that i could see at the moment I am still tryinf to complete my task in tracing wires, but sometimes i feel confused is there a possible way that you could send a wire schematic in identifying wires within the harness from under dash to engine. I'm sorry if its not too much ask, its just that I'm from GUAM and not even the ford dealer out here has a repair manual. Also have another question how do i complete a successful testing on the crank sensor, and the camshaft position sensor using a fluke. what setting do i choose and how do i perform the test, what are the readings supposed to be after completing test. I'm sorry i havent really gotten into the depth of using the volt meter to test senors if they are failing or if its a bad circuit. please help im really starting to give up, but really need this vehicle to get running, this is my mothers vehicle which stays with her at home in case of emergencies. if you could just breeze through for me the proceedures for testing these parts i will greatly appreciate it, not that i already do cause you have been the best help i have gotten and much appreciation i do have for this so thank you very much in having the time to spendin solving my engine problems. hopefully i will solve this real soon using your help.

Which engine do you have?
Did you check if there are sparks?
If sparks are not available, it would be a fault with the crak sensor. If the injecttors are not pulsing, it would be cam sensor problem.

It could be coincidence that the engine could not be started after replacement of the power steering hose replacement.

I would try to get the schematic for you but they might be too small to read. Let me have your email so I can send them in pdf format.

the engine in 4.6L v-8 there is spark but no pulsing at the injectors.

It was the PCM power relay that was bad cost me $34.00 all fixed I love this site.

The security system can cause non starting.

If there is a fault with the security system, the THEFT indicator light would glow or flash rapidly after ignition key is turned ON.

You would need special tools to program the keys.

I have sent the files to you, hope they are helpful.

Will you send me the information as well on the Anti-Theft problem that stops it from starting

Here is the guide you need to fix the problem:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Please run down this guide and report back.

Engine Mechanical problem
1994 Ford Mustang 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

diagnostic tests indicate that the fuel injectors are wide open and do not close. when the car runs it runs so rich it is pouring out all gas. what would cause this problem? The computer?

The PCM decides the pulse width of the injectors-you might want to check below that will caused a rich mixture

1.Excessive fuel pressure can be cause by restricted fuel return line or defective fuel pressure regulator.
2.Defective Oxygen Sensors.
3.Leaking injectors and fuel pressure regulator.
4.Coolant temperature sensor out of calibration.
5.Restricted air intake system.

sorry it is a 3.8 L. V6. Injectors are always open. we have replaced injectors, oxygen sensor, cat sensors, mass air flow sensor, and has new coolant temperature sensore

If its throttle body injection could be the fuel meter body-if not computer also for a MPFI

I am having the problem with getting too much fuel in the #1 Cylinder. I was told it was prob the fuel injector so I pulled it. Now im wondering if theres a way to test it to make sure its not something else and waisted my time and money on an injector. Thanks, Chris

Dis help you any? https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector We're here to help...If I cannot...Someone will!--The Medic

You should have left it in place for the testing. Now that it's out, you might as well replace it because it would be a lot of work to put it back together for testing. It's likely a bad injector. The only other thing to test would be for a short to ground in the trigger wire for that injector.

Well I got the new injectors in and still having problems. I am getting constant ground to the ground wire in the injector when I know it is supposed to pulsate. I ran a jumper wire from the ecm to the injector and it sill isn't pulsing. The thing that has me puzzled is that its not a thing that happens all the time. It is a intermittent thing. Most of the time it gives me the problem but sometimes it runs good. Hope someone has an answer that can help me and I HOPE its not the ecm thats bad. Thanks

Either the trigger wire from the ECM to the injector is shorted to ground or the ECM itself is defective. Running a new wire doesn't help if the old one is still connected and shorted.

I didn't leave the old wire hooked up. I cut it from the ecm and the injector and ran a new one thinking the old wire might be grounded out somewhere in the harness. What is the trigger wire? Thanks.

That was it. If you're still getting solid ground signal from that wire as it leaves the computer, then you have a bad computer.

Ok got ya. The bad thing is where i bought the car replaced the ecm about 9 months ago i was having the same problem then and they replaced it. The bad thing is the one they bought and put in only had a 6 mos warranty.

You could have another problem that is overloading the quad driver in the computer and burning them out like a shorted injector.

Ok. well i just replaced all the injectors. Now the thing that has me going crazy is that it dosent do this all the time. It is an intermittent thing. I always thought if a computer was bad its bad not intermittent.