Engine runs rough

start with a compression test. once that is done, make sure you have the wires on correctly. it is easy to cross them.

what was the codes?? when did this start??

Roy

I have done compression. All cyclindrs r over 100 wires aren't crossed I've double checked myself thing so

Code was lean o2 bank 1 sensor 1 And been doing this for about a month just started out of nowhere

02 sensor was extremely black when replaced truck started smoking black when o2 sensor light came on so replaced 02 and stopped smoking now just acts like a misfire. Only would smoke under heAvy throttle or towing

do you have access to a scan tool?? you need to monitor the long term trims on the o2 sensors to see what is happening.

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Roy

No I do not have access to a scan tool

What about a injector problem not allowing injector or injectors to fully close and loading up on fuel? Just a thought..

did you figure out the problem i have a 98 that does the exact same thing please let me know thx

I had this problem it has the #3 fuel injector has bad allowing fuel into the engine got a new one for $76.00 all fixed FYI

Electrical problem
1999 Dodge Ram V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic alot miles

I put a 2000 or 2001 motor in my 99 ram1500. I had to change out the injecter plugs because the injecters on the new motor had different plugs. It would start but it ran rough. I ran a scan and it said that the timing was 3 deg. off, so I fixed that and now it will start and idle fine but when you put it in gear and try to drive it it starts popping and missing and running rough. I have ran several more scans but they dont show anything or give me any codes.

We always recommend staying with a direct replacement because this always seems to happen. The only thing I can add is to make sure the sensors are all correct and hooked up. Also, make sure there are no vacuum leaks.

Let me know what you find.

I have a 1999 dodge ram 2500 that starts to run rough when it gets up to temp. It runs fine on short trips and before it gets up to temp. Just did a tune up with no help any sugestions?

Hi:
Is the check engine light on? Even if it's off, I would take the truck to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scannt he computer for codes. It's usually free to have done and it may point us in the right direction.

Also, does the truck seem to run rich or any other things you can tell me?

Joe

My dodge sudenly stopped after giving no indication of a problem. After I got it home, I checked all sensors and ran a diagnostic with a scan tool--nothing! I checked timing, spark, and fuel pressure all OK. After changing plugs, they were fouled with black soot, the motor ran good for a moment and then died. I removed some fuel from at injector fuel rail and noticed that it looked yellowish. It looks alot like old fuel that you see in a lawn mower thats been sitting for several years. I have never experianced bad gas before and am not sure if it is. I filled up at the station and drove almost half a tank out before my engine quit. Could this be bad fuel or something else?

Does the fuel have a strange odor to it?

After rechecking the fuel, It looks like it may be ok. The yellow color was coming from contamination in the hoes I was using. One thing I have noticed is the fuel pressure bounces around erratically, between 35-50 psi, when the motor is turning over and also when it finally does idol for a little while. I am thinking it may be the fuel pressure regulator or maybe EGR valve--not real sure.

When you checked the pressure, did you disconnect the regulator to see what happened? If so, how did the pressure react? Based on what you are saying, it does sound like a bad regulator.

Here is a HOW TO for checking fuel pressure and the regulator. Try it and let me know what you find with the regulator.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

Let me know what you find.

I watched the video on testing the regulator but the regulator on this vehicle is a "returnless" fuel system, according to the Hanes manual. The regulator is mounted on top of the fuel pump sending unit at the tank. I am not sure how to test this one. Another tid-bit of info, yesterday when I finally got the engine to run, roughly however, my engine suddenly smoothed out and idled correctly, I was able to give a little throttle without stalling the motor out; during this time I watched my pressure gauge and noticed that it was holding a steady pressure and not bouncing around. This only lasted for about 60 seconds and then went back to rough idle and pressure gauge bouncing around erratically.

I'm sorry!!! you are correct. THis has the regulator mounted at the top of the fuel tank. It's a combination filter and pressure regulator. The regulator is a mechanical device not controlled by the PCM or engine vacuum. It's calibrated to maintain a pressure a pressure of about 49 psi at the fuel injectors. The unit contains a diaphragm, calibrated springs and a return valve. Chances are that is the problem. Here are the directions to replace it: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the fuel tank filler cap. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the fuel tank assembly. The fuel pressure filter/regulator assembly is located on the top of the fuel pump assembly. It is not necessary to remove the fuel pump to remove the pressure filter/regulator assembly. Matchmark the direction the hose fitting points. Unit must be reinstalled pointing in the same direction. Twist the filter/regulator assembly out of its grommet on the fuel pump. Remove the snap ring that retains the convoluted tube to the filter/regulator. Slide the tube down the plastic fuel tube to access the fuel tube clamp. Gently cut the old fuel tube clamp off, taking care NOT to damage the fuel tube or drop the clamp inside the tank. Remove the fuel tube from the filter/regulator assembly by gently pulling downward. Remove the filter/regulator assembly from the fuel pump module. To install: Install a new clamp over the plastic fuel tube. Install the filter/regulator assembly to the fuel tube. Rotate the filter/regulator until it is pointed to line up with the matchmark previously made. Tighten the clamp to fuel line using Hose Clamp Pliers C-4124 or equivalent. Slide the convoluted plastic tube up to the bottom of the filter/regulator and install the snap ring. Press the filter/regulator assembly into the rubber grommet making sure it is pointed in the 10 o'clock position. Install the fuel tank. Lower the vehicle. Connect the negative battery cable. Install the fuel filler cap. Here is a picture of the regulator:

According to what I have read, the regulator isn't serviceable. The pump should be regulated to aprox 49 PSI. If it is more than that, chances are the regulator is bad and the pump is good. If it is droping below that, both should be replaced. Let me know what you find. If I recall, you were droping into the 30PSI range. If you remove the tank, replace both with the filter too. Joe LEt me know if this helps.

I have a Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L V8. Recently my check engine light has come on but the vehicle has been running fine until about a week ago and suddenly when i get into high gears the dashboard will start shaking and the vehicle will start reducing speed. When i take the overdrive off it doesn't run as rough but is still not working properly, what is wrong??

Get the codes cycle key on off on off on
read the codes in the odometer area
and or have it scanned
possible o2 sensor or tune up
check fuel pressure

1999 Ram 1500, 4wd, 318, 5 spd..
Running terribly rough on rainy wet mornings. Seems to be getting worse; almost didn't want to start this morning. After I got it going, it ran very rough through every acceleration. It's only on rainy mornings. Seems to run fine other than that.

Sounds like you need to replace your distributor cap...also check wires and make sure not cracked or burnt.but sometimes if caps is cracked or not fitting snug anymore there will be a little condensation inside and will do that

I have a 95 ram 1500 4X4 with 204000 miles on it. its got the 318. When i first start it, it runs good cold but when it warms up it cuts out like 200 rpm at idle every 5 seconds or so and does it more often when the a/c is on. i replaced the rotor, cap, wires, plugs, air filter, and O2 sensor. this truck has the built in fuel filter in the tank. Idk if i should try that or what? also the truck doesnt have much power when its warmed up. any info would be appreciated thanx!

Did you check for trouble codes? You should be able to access some codes by cycling the ignition switch. On--off, on--off, on. you don't crank it, just cycle the key till the dash lites come on. Use a gage and check fuel pressure.

i recieved codes 31- Purge selonoid and also 37-TOT Circuit Voltage High. what would cause this and what will i need to replace to fix it

31 has to do with the open/short in the purge solenoid circuit. 37 is trans fluid temp sensor, voltage too high. I can't tell you that replacing the purge solenoid or the fluid temp sensor will fix the problem. If the problem is in the wiring circuit somewhere, replacing the part may not fix anything.

So there really isn't any idea on how to fix my problem then is there?

Recently, I've changed the starter, and cleaned the throttle body out, but the engine is still running rough and dragging a bit while cranking. Also, after starting, it's a bit of a struggle keeping it running at first. Would a simple tuneup suffice or is there some other reason it's running so rough?

I would start with a tune up for sure
check for a vacuum leaks and check idle air control valve
good luck

I'd replace the tranny fluid temp sensor and I'd have to check the purge solenoid circuit. If you don't like the answer you got, talk to [email protected], among others, he is my boss.

is it possible that it may be low fuel pressure or a faulty fuel pump? it was changed about 5 years back, but no other problems out of it since.

Nothing should be ruled out
I would check tune up and under hood for vacuum leaks
if you have fuel gauge check fuel pressure when 1st key on and then when engine running

get your battery tested,and check your electrical connections at the distributer,coil and alternator. clean your battery terminals even if they look clean.And make sure you tightened the starter wire.New spark plug wires cant hurt either,happy hunting

hello, i have a 1997 Dodge Ram v8 1500 sport 4x4 with 106.000. the check engine light is on and every time i turn it on it runs really rough or shaky and when i press the gas it shakes a little and when it hits around 55- 60 mph its starts to vibrate pretty bad. if any clues to what i need or maybe i just need a tune up. please respond thanks - Adam

Look it's not going to help you any but I have a 2000 1500 Dodge Sport and I think that I have had the same problems. If you happen to find the answer could you let me know?? Nobody seems to have any clue what the vibration could be...if yours is doing the same thing I can tell you it probably isn't the wheel bearing, axle, or u-joint. If that helps at all :D

Post in the correct forum please

Thanx

i had an 01 explorer with this same problem and when i brought it in it was the universal joints on the drive shaft

bump

Dodge Neon 2003 sxt, 90,122, 2.0L.... some one help me. i just bought this car about a month ago and everything was running just fine and then it started to shift wrong i thought it was the transmission but when i looked under the hood i noticed that my motor mount was broke so i fixed it and then it ran great, for about 20 minutes. now there is a really bad rattling noise in it. so i took a look under the car and i notice that the bottom motor mount is broke....so i fix that and now its still doing it. so i stuck the E brake on and put it in drive and its coming from like right below the timing belt....does anyone know what it could be...HELP ME PLEASE